Search the Community

This is just the latest process that I'm using. It's constantly evolving and I'm looking forward to seeing any ideas from other scrollers that might improve on it. Getting new ideas and learning new tricks is something that I have always enjoyed about meeting other woodworkers and seeing their work. Applying The Pattern Affix your pattern to the wood. This is a Celtic cross design from Sue Mey that I like. Interior Cuts Make your interior cuts. I use an air compressor to blow the dust out of the wood. Then I cover the face of the design with a double layer of packing tape to use as a backer for the resin. Resin Dam I use common plumber's putty to build a (dam) around the design. Epoxy After trying many different brands. I found the Promise brand deep pour tabletop epoxy works best for me. I also use a digital scale to make sure that I get an exact 50/50 mix to the gram. Dyes & Powders I use Alumilite dyes and powders. Adding Color It doesn't take much of either. 1 drop of the dye and just a little of the gold and green powders. The amount of powder shown here is about twice the amount needed. Mixing When you are mixing. Mix the resin and colors slowly while scraping the sides and bottom of the container. Try to keep the air bubbles to a minimum. Pour Then slowly pour the mixture trying to fill all the holes evenly. Popping Air Bubbles Once poured. I use a cheap hair dryer to heat the resin and get as many bubbles out as I can. Let The Epoxy Cure I let it sit for 24-36 hours to harden. I keep my shop around 70 degrees. Trimming The Epoxy After the has hardened, I remove as much of the plumber's putty as I can and run it through my planer to level the back surface down to the clean wood. I make very shallow passes. Maybe 1/32 at a time. Exterior Cuts Now I drill an entry hole and make the exterior cuts. Support Material I save the wood from the outside of the design and peel all the tape off. I put the piece back into the wood that I cut it from and tape the back side to hold it. This is to protect the piece while running it back through the planer. Final Planing Then I lightly shave the front of the piece down until I get it down to clean wood. Finishing Then remove the piece and sand. I start with 100, 220, 320, 400, 600, and finish with 800. Once done you can apply the finish of your choice. I use clear polyurethane. Final Project I hope you enjoyed reading about my process and I look forward to seeing the projects you make. The next photo is a different cross but shows what it looks like when finished.

Adding color to scrolling is easy and fun. It saves you a lot of time and the cost of purchasing many colors of paint, brushes and the time waiting for the paint to dry between coats. This is not a new process however, Fisher-Price toy company made their toys this way back in 1940 and 1950 before plastic came along. You simply glue artwork to your project instead of painting. You can use clip art printed from your computer or make up your own artwork drawings as I have done. You do not have to be an artist, as I surely am not. I do my artwork using colored pencils. Make copies of the artwork on a color printer in order to keep the original drawings and use them again. Attach the scroll saw pattern to the wood and cut out as you usually do. Sand all over and round the edges slightly. Paint the edges of the project and all around the project about ½ inch in on the front and back surfaces. (optional). This is the only painting you have to do (you do not have to prime the wood). There are two choices to make at this time. White is usually the best choice, or you might want to use a color that matches the artwork. If you choose white, using scissors cut out the artwork about 1/64 of an inch out from the art itself. This does not have to be perfect as the white will be hidden by the white paint you applied to the project itself. If you choose a color other than white, to match the artwork cut the artwork exactly and leave no white edges. Using plain Mod Podge or white glue (Mod Podge is preferred), apply a very thin and even coat with a brush or your fingers. Don’t worry if you get some on the edges, it will not show when it dries. Carefully center the artwork on the project. Try to keep it centered, but do not worry if it is not exact. It will not be noticed. Very carefully smooth out the artwork. Put aside and let it dry overnight Apply a couple of light coats of Mod Podge or white glue over the art, don’t worry if it looks white or cloudy, it will dry clear. These coats will hide the edges of the artwork and give it a harder surface. Apply two of Minwax Satin Urethane (or equal) all over including the edges and back surface. Lightly steel wool with 0000 wool and apply paste wax (optional). Note: A project should look good AND feel good. The paste wax gives your project a “finished” look and feel. Examples Patterns You can find downloadable project patterns using these techniques here.