Scroll Saw Basics

blame · January 28, 2009

Ok so my wife got me the Spring Issue of ScrollSaw Woodworking & Crafts. As I was browsing the pages I come across the section Scrollsaw Basics which covered

[*:kx16d924]PATTERN ATTACHMENT
[*:kx16d924]PATTERN REMOVAL
[*:kx16d924]BLADE ENTRY HOLES
[*:kx16d924]BLADE TENSION
[*:kx16d924]SQUARING YOUR TABLE
[*:kx16d924]STACK CUTTING

After reading that short article I thought it would be a good topic to discuss here.

PATTERN ATTACHMENT

I thought Handi did a superb job covering this subject in another post

Ok everyone.

The MOMENT you have been waiting for! Unfortunatly it's on youtube and Not blip.tv at the moment, but this will work for now...

Enjoy the video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hS0RCnHvKXs

NOTE:I would like to thank handi for allowing me to link to his video on pattern attaching

PATTERN REMOVAL

Most common practice for removing the pattern is to use mineral spirits. Use a old windex bottle or rag to soak the pattern till it turns translucent in color then wiping away the excess spirits and pattern with another rag.

BLADE ENTRY HOLES

Drilling the starter holes for each cut is the first step in transforming your piece into your finished masterpiece. not all pattern have the holes marked in matter of fact in my 4 years of scrolling i think i've only come across less then 10 or 12 patterns that have the holes marked. so choose your starting location wisely for instance if you were to drill them out in the interior corner your starting location is left very visible and its hard to make a clean cut to hide it, same is noticeable on curves also it desirable to use a drill press rather then hand held drill. i've found that what works best for me unless confined with space restrictions is to allow 1/16" to 1/8" allowance from any line in the pattern

as seen in the drawing below

the black line represents the area thats meant to be cut out. the black dot is my location for my blade entry hole. i'd start by cutting along the green line till i got to the corner then backing out enough to make the curve cut to meet the next part to continue the cut. after cutting all 4 sides

i go back and cut the blue areas cleaning up the corners

using this method is my preferred way to cut any interior cut to have clean lines

this all for now its late and the wife is telling me its time to quit lol till later happy scrolling

blame

Travis · January 29, 2009

Thanks for the great tutorial, Blame! That's a great starting point. Entry holes are certainly important when starting a cut. For a square, I like to go at a 45 degree angle into the corner, turn 45 degrees to go up the side. When I get to the next corner, I just spin my board fairly quickly while pressing the board against the side/back of the blade. If you spin it fairly quickly (and still have control) you get a pretty sharp corner. I don't get a perfect corner, but pretty dern close. I've never had much luck with coming into a side. I usually end up with a nib. I usually like to pick a point where there'es a corner, or an edge I can sneek up to easily. But it goes to show you there's a hundred different ways to do the same thing...LOL. I can't wait to see your next installment. I really like seeing how other people work. That way I can steal....errr...borrow a few of their techniques.

blame · January 30, 2009

to continue on the basics

BLADE TENSION

Blade tension is something we all should understand its just as important as having the table squared. If your tension is too lose you will get bowed cuts, poorly squared corners, and very poor cutting leading to faster dulling of the blade not to mention blade breakage. but on the other hand if your over tension your blade your going to see some of the same conditions mainly blade breakage. Tension on the blade should allow for no more then a total of an 1/8" of play in all combined direction. I generally have mine set to about this rule any less and I see wandering cuts.

SQUARING YOUR TABLE

Everyone has there own method to square the table to the blade. I like to use the kerf test, using a piece of 1 1/2" thick scrap. Cutting into the stock about 1/16" give or take then turn the cut around to the back of the blade and inserting the blade back in to the cut. if the blade entered the cut smoothly I know my table is relatively square to the blade. And I find it fairly quick compared to reading the gap on a tri-square.

STACK CUTTING

Stack cutting is a method used to cut several pieces at the same time. I've never really did much stack cutting since i mainly do one of each of my projects but for those of us that mass produce pieces heres a couple methods to securing several blanks together. Most common method is to use 3 or 4 blanks and tape the outer edges to hold them in line with one another while cutting. I preferred painters tape over any other type. Using brads is another method to join your blanks just make sure you place the brads in the waste areas and sand the back side of the stack to remove any sharp edges so not to scar your table. Also you could use hot glue on the edges but I found that this wasn't a very good way since you risk letting glue get in between the layers causing uneven cuts.

thanks for reading my short article on the basics. and good luck on your projects and happy scrolling

blame

blame · January 30, 2009

Thanks for the great tutorial, Blame! That's a great starting point. Entry holes are certainly important when starting a cut. For a square, I like to go at a 45 degree angle into the corner, turn 45 degrees to go up the side. When I get to the next corner, I just spin my board fairly quickly while pressing the board against the side/back of the blade. If you spin it fairly quickly (and still have control) you get a pretty sharp corner. I don't get a perfect corner, but pretty dern close. I've never had much luck with coming into a side. I usually end up with a nib. I usually like to pick a point where there'es a corner, or an edge I can sneek up to easily. But it goes to show you there's a hundred different ways to do the same thing...LOL. I can't wait to see your next installment. I really like seeing how other people work. That way I can steal....errr...borrow a few of their techniques.

Travis

I've also used this method but found that control of the piece was always a bit uncomfortable for me. i do see the "nib" at times but nothing a small "good quality" needle file wont remove quickly. I think i've found a way to avoid the "nib" all together just by change my method in the start. By cutting to the left corner then backing out to the starting hole and backing in the cut and going into the rest the cut as a strait line should remove the the nib

lol yeah thats what the site is here for learning from each others experiences.

thanks

Blame

Travis · January 30, 2009

... I've also used this method but found that control of the piece was always a bit uncomfortable for me. i do see the "nib" at times but nothing a small "good quality" needle file wont remove quickly.

You're right. It certainly can get away from you and cause an unsightly corner. I usually cut patterns that have an organic line and not too many sharp corner because corners and straight lines...LOL. :lol: I think I might try it your technique next time I have a straight-away. I have a nice set of needle files too. I also saw that Dick Sader (I posted his video tutorial here) uses emory boards to clean up his cuts. I guess I've heard people using that, but never tried it myself. I think I'll give it a go.