Resawed a couple of boards.

[jbrowning]

Yep, I put my "big-boy" pants on yesterday and got the old table saw out and re-sawed a couple of boards. They were .50" x 6", I did two passes on each board with the saw blade going through the board just beyond half way. The only issue I'm finding is that I was left with just a little bit of lip on each board. I'm going to use my palm sander and sand those down. I have to say I'm pretty happy with the results. The lip might be because the boards had a little bit of a cup in them.

 

Thanks

Jim

[New Guy]

Would be nice to have a planner when doing that.

[jbrowning]

I totally agree with you. Someday I will get a planer. But right now I'm pinching pennies to get the work shed put up outback. Then I will see how much room I have for more tools.

[oldhudson]

I'd think you could clean that up with a block plane or cabinet scraper.

[hotshot]

I have that happen every time I try that rip from each side with a tablesaw.  I just accept it, and consider it part of working with that beast.

Edited March 8, 2016 by hotshot

[jbrowning]

That's what I'm thinking hotshot. Which I'm perfectly happy with. I have a palm sander that I'm sure will take care of the situation. I'm using these boards for Christmas Ornaments. So it should be pretty easily taken care of.

 

Jim

[amazingkevin]

Yep, I put my "big-boy" pants on yesterday and got the old table saw out and re-sawed a couple of boards. They were .50" x 6", I did two passes on each board with the saw blade going through the board just beyond half way. The only issue I'm finding is that I was left with just a little bit of lip on each board. I'm going to use my palm sander and sand those down. I have to say I'm pretty happy with the results. The lip might be because the boards had a little bit of a cup in them.

 

Thanks

Jim

Now that 's a new one i haven't run across.

[Jim Finn]

That little ridge in the wood, when doing this, is almost always there when I do it.  I usually use my band saw because of that.

[jbrowning]

Wow, is this like perfect timing or what Jim . I ended up buying a Bosch Electric Hand Planer. http://www.lowes.com/pd_744047-353-PL1632_1z0viiwZ1z0wcik__?productId=50406006&pl=1

So tomorrow I will take apart my pallets and after resawing them in half. I will see what this hand planer will do.

 

I am planning on getting a band saw at some point. Just haven't decided when.

 

Thanks

Jim

[Chiloquinruss]

I get that every once and awhile and what I find it is because of the blade against the grain.  What seems to work for me is when I find that this is happening I swap the board end for end for the second pass.  Sometimes works sometimes doesn't.    Russ

[Jim Finn]

I wanted to re-visit this thread because , after talking about re-sawing with a table saw on another forum, I made a vertical extension for my table saw fence, raised my 10" thin kerf 24 teeth rip blade, to the max.  I  made two passes on the table saw, and lightly ran it through my thickness planer.  Pretty quick and easy.  The helpful thing ,for me was the fence extension.  I still need to use my band saw for boards wider than six inches. 

[jbrowning]

I wanted to re-visit this thread because , after talking about re-sawing with a table saw on another forum, I made a vertical extension for my table saw fence, raised my 10" thin kerf 24 teeth rip blade, to the max.  I  made two passes on the table saw, and lightly ran it through my thickness planer.  Pretty quick and easy.  The helpful thing ,for me was the fence extension.  I still need to use my band saw for boards wider than six inches. 

 

 

Hi Jim Finn, were you able to make your cut all in one pass? I'm having to make mine in two cuts. That is where I'm getting the lip on the cut.

[Jim Finn]

Two passes are required for boards over 3 1/4" wide. Yes there is a slight ridge left  in the center of wider boards. My thickness planer makes short work of this.

[Bill WIlson]

Just a PSA on table saw safety;  It's considered good practice to make several passes when resawing with a table saw, rather than trying to cut the maximum blade height in a single pass.  This puts less strain on the saw, generates less heat on the blade and decreases the chance of binding and kickback.  Also, some folks insist on stopping just short of cutting the whole way through, leaving a thin strip in the middle holding the two slabs together.  This helps prevent losing control of the offcut.  The cut is then finished with a handsaw.  The reason for this is that the two tall, narrow pieces are more difficult to hold safely than if you were ripping a board across it's width.  Wide stock, standing on edge is less stable and you have a lot of blade exposed with no guard, so any miscues can be a recipe for disaster.  Please take precautions and perform the resaw operation as safely as possible. 

 

OK, stepping down form my soapbox now. 

[dgman]

Just a PSA on table saw safety;  It's considered good practice to make several passes when resawing with a table saw, rather than trying to cut the maximum blade height in a single pass.  This puts less strain on the saw, generates less heat on the blade and decreases the chance of binding and kickback.  Also, some folks insist on stopping just short of cutting the whole way through, leaving a thin strip in the middle holding the two slabs together.  This helps prevent losing control of the offcut.  The cut is then finished with a handsaw.  The reason for this is that the two tall, narrow pieces are more difficult to hold safely than if you were ripping a board across it's width.  Wide stock, standing on edge is less stable and you have a lot of blade exposed with no guard, so any miscues can be a recipe for disaster.  Please take precautions and perform the resaw operation as safely as possible. 

 

OK, stepping down form my soapbox now. 

g

No soapbox Bill. You are exactly right! I use a Japanese style pull rip saw for the final cut, then I run the board through the planer