hayu Posted June 27, 2010 Report Posted June 27, 2010 I have just cut out my first intarsia and sanded it. My question is how do you glue it together? And what type of glue, my hot glue gun will leave spaces between the pieces? Quote
amazingkevin Posted June 28, 2010 Report Posted June 28, 2010 Hey scroller ,how you doin,I don't know the answer to that one but you intarsia guys really have your work cut out for you.I tryed once and it just take s to long and how much can you charge for some thing like that .What did you decide to intarsia? Quote
Clayton717 Posted June 28, 2010 Report Posted June 28, 2010 I just use wood glue(tightbond) and sometimes I use eileens tacky glue. I glue the edges of each piece just enough to hold it all together. Then once it is all dry I can glue it to a backer board. I found by edge glue it all first I can get it set and clamped to the backer without all the seperate pieces moving on me. Hope this helps you some. Quote
Travis Posted June 28, 2010 Report Posted June 28, 2010 I've heard of some people using silicone (I'm assuming caulk) to edge glue them together. This is mostly to hold them in place while they put it together. Then they glue it with regular wood glue to a backer board. I think the advantage of silicone is that you can pull the pieces apart, scrape away the silicone, and reposition it if needed. But since I'm far from an intarsia expert, I would investigate it a bit further. Quote
wdkits1 Posted June 28, 2010 Report Posted June 28, 2010 I like to glue sections together using CA glue. I begin by placing plastic wrap over the pattern and putting a little glue on the plastic wrap where the pieces meet. Set the pieces in place over the pattern and continue until all of the pieces are glued together to form a larger unit. Just use enough glue to hold the pieces in place but doesn't squeeze out .. When all of the pieces are glued together you can easily peel off the plastic wrap and set the whole thing over the backer board and trace the outline for cutting the backer to the right size. Then glue the whole thing to the backer. Check out my Buffalo Box Intarsia tutorial for pics of this process. Make sure you post some photos of your completed Intarsia Quote
hayu Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Posted June 28, 2010 Thanks all! I am doing a rooster, it said beginner level. I think the next one I will go for bellow beginner level in sanding. Quote
amazingkevin Posted June 29, 2010 Report Posted June 29, 2010 i've tryed sanding with a dremil and round sanding sleeves .they go way to slow for me.I think maybe an air tool would go quicker.When i carved tree trunks i used the lancelot blades on a 4.5 grinder.I would tape the switch on and tape my hand securely to the grinder as i didnt want any kind of an accident with that tool.What tools do you guys use to take off wood fast.thanks .I can't wait to see the rooster.sounds like alot of hard tedious work. Quote
Clayton717 Posted June 29, 2010 Report Posted June 29, 2010 I use a oscilating spindle sander, a dremel with small sanding drum and of course hand sanding. Intarsia involves some work but in the end it is well worth it. It is by far the most popular thing I make and sell. I am looking forward to seeing you rooster completed. Quote
amazingkevin Posted June 30, 2010 Report Posted June 30, 2010 Well i had to get my feet wet in intarsia now.Wish i'd have known not to sand the square edges where they connect together.Now it's a sloppy fit.That is a lesson well learned.I'm trying one of the master intarsia constructor eagles by clayton 717. 19" x 19". I spent at least 9 hours cutting and sanding.I have a 2"sanding drum that fits into a drill ,but thought that it would go faster in the drill press.there"s still cutting to do and sanding but not to much.i'll need to get differant color stains soon.I was slow go but i enjoyed it more than i thought i was going to .Seeing things take shape and come together was a joy.I'll have to take notes where ever i can now as i see these should be a much better seller,at least more money anyway.Now i need a whole new collection of patterns to work from.thanks to the newbee that's doing the rooster for a push in the right direction and got me going.soon i'll have another notch on my belt of things i've done!Thanks Quote
hayu Posted July 1, 2010 Author Report Posted July 1, 2010 What do you mean by sqare edges? Mine isn't coming together. Are you suppose to paint the part that you put glue on? I was going to glue it together and put it on my try it again peg. I use a Dremmel drum sander. Quote
amazingkevin Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 Yes ,the square edge is the cut line that you scrolled.Thats the part you glue and stain or paint but no sanding except for a bur or a flap that should'nt be there.I now have two intarsias going at the same time.A change from only scrolling is good i see.I'm using a sanding drum 2" by delta i bought 15 years ago and never used it untill now.I put in the drill press at slow speed ,but now set it to high speed .When the drum sanding sleeve gets clogged with clear coat or varnish i brush on mineral spirits and let it do it's thing and wire brush the junk right off and it's geady to go again.I change sleeve directions too.This is interesting work. Quote
Clayton717 Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 I hope this helps you and don't confuse you. When cutting pieces on the scroll saw sometimes the blade will flex and not cut the piece square(the edges). These pieces have to be sanded to make the fit tightly together. This happens quite often, I always sand the edges to make sure they are square. Since the pieces are generally cut out seperatly there is no "pefect" fitting piece without a little sanding. I would reccomend a sanding drum that is taller (thicker) than your wood. To insure the entire edge is being sanded. There are times that I will group a few pieces together into a large piece,cut the outside shape of all these, then cut each piece individually. But I only do this if the grain direction is running the same direction for each piece according to the pattern or if it will look good. In this way these few pieces will fit back together tighlty. But I only do this when I use the same type of wood and the grain direction works for the pattern. I use the natural color of the wood there is NO stain in any of my intarsia projects. It takes time, but in the end it is well worth it. Intarsia is my biggest selling woodoworking projects. I am no expert at intarsia. I am still learning little tricks and shortcuts from one project to the next. But I have done several projects and some multiples of each. Aagin I hope this helps you. Quote
amazingkevin Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 congradulations, i had no idea you did,nt use any liquild on your finished product.They are strikeingly beautyfull.The real wood you used ,fooled my eye.I'm trying to finish the little daudshunt of yours too.I don't have big pieces of hardwood so i need to stain what i have.I'm waiting on delievery of quite a few cans as i did a days work for my finish carpenter friend at his shop.They are mostly dark colors,one redwood.I have an idea for the small pieces you sent me ,so i'll be working on another new project soon.THANKS AGAIN :)Here's the finished one now on july 2nd. all poplar and stained as i don't have hard wood.8" x 11" Quote
Clayton717 Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 Kevin, I hope I didn't offend you. I'm not saying that using stains is wrong, it's just the way I do it. I like having the natural grains and colors to come out. To me it adds to each piece, no two will ever be the same. It's just my preference. I'm lucky I geuss, I have a local (about 4 miles) wood shop that does custom trim and cabinet work, and they stock 60+ different woods. They have bought items from me and treat me well when I purchase wood, it is a family owned business. If not from them I wouldn't have all the types of woods I do have. Lots of times they give me their cut off they can't use. You've got the general idea of intarsia, I'm happy to see you trying it. stay with it. Quote
hayu Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Posted July 2, 2010 Do I need a back board? The rooster I am doing doesn't call for one. It sets on a base and two dowels. Quote
Clayton717 Posted July 2, 2010 Report Posted July 2, 2010 if you have all glued securely glued together you shouldn't need one. It is up to you. A backer gives more support. I use a backer because all my intarsia hangs on a wall. Quote
hayu Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Posted July 2, 2010 Is it possible to use a router for a sanding drum? Mine has different speeds. Quote
Clayton717 Posted July 2, 2010 Report Posted July 2, 2010 not sure never thought about it. if you could slow it way down maybe. I'm thinking with small pieces it will still be very dangerous. A router bit will tear the crap out of your finger(trust me), a sanding drum may just take a layer of skin. It is up to you but if it were me I wouldn't . Quote
hayu Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Posted July 2, 2010 I guess I need to do the rooster over. I have one piece that I would have to change all the other pieces to get to fit. Intarsia is harder then it looks. I have put it on the try again shelf. Quote
wdkits1 Posted July 2, 2010 Report Posted July 2, 2010 Hi Hayu One of the little tricks that I use often when pieces don't fit together tightly is to hold the pieces together and run the blade between them to get rid of any places that are holding them apart. Sometimes too much sanding will only make things worse Quote
Clayton717 Posted July 4, 2010 Report Posted July 4, 2010 great tip Mike. I never thought of it. but will use it in the future Quote
hayu Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Posted July 13, 2010 Heres my rooster and one of Steves basket's with a couple compound cut outs. Thanks all! Quote
amazingkevin Posted July 14, 2010 Report Posted July 14, 2010 hey nice work ,your really crafty.These are things i've never seen before so thats two treats in one ,thank you for posting thebasket its a good job too and i really enjoyed the colorfull rooster too.the upside down fish is neet! Good job! Quote
hayu Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Posted July 14, 2010 The rooster is from the Spielman's book "Scroll Saw Patterns for the Country Home". The basket is from Steve Good web site scrollsawworkshop.com and the 3D is from Diana Thompson's book called "3D Patterns for the Scroll Saw." The basket I made out of 3/4 plywood for a more reedy look. Quote
Huntter2022 Posted July 14, 2010 Report Posted July 14, 2010 At the Saw Expo some tips I received from Kathy Wise and Judy Gale Roberts check saw for blade being square cut slowly , prevent side cuts Sanding and shaping pneumatic drum sander and mops oscialtor sander good too Gluing Kathy uses CA with acclerator End glues the pieces and then glues to the backer board Judy she uses Arleens tacky glue She glue each piece to the backer board does not end glue. Silicone glue (100% silicone)used like in a flower were there is a number of pedals when put together there would be a gap so silicone is used in-between to close that gap makeing the pedal come together in the end David Quote
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