Oddball question. Not scroll saw related

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

When I bought my Performax 16/32 drum sander many years ago it probably was one of the best tools I ever bought. It made things so much easier and that is the perfect tool for milling woods to thin veneers. I would not be without it any more. I have run many a boardfoot of lumber through that thing. 

[OCtoolguy]

5 hours ago, Scrappile said:

Check the internet, if you want less that 1/8", veneer is not all that expensive.  I've purchased some great veneers off Ebay.

Do you have any recommendations as to suppliers? I never thought of going to eBay. Thanks for the tip.

Ray

 

[OCtoolguy]

3 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

When I bought my Performax 16/32 drum sander many years ago it probably was one of the best tools I ever bought. It made things so much easier and that is the perfect tool for milling woods to thin veneers. I would not be without it any more. I have run many a boardfoot of lumber through that thing. 

JT, I would love to have one if I had the space. But, my small shop area won't permit it. Now, if you lived close by, I could pay you to use yours. Jk!

Ray

 

[OCtoolguy]

6 hours ago, tomsteve said:

those timberwolf blades are the bees knees!

as for planing thin stock, ive had the best results putting an auxiliary bed on my planer. basically a piece of 3/4" melamine  12"wide and a bit longer than the infeed and outfeed tables. then a cleat on the bottom of the melamine- both ends and right up against the infeed and outfeed tables- to keep the bed in place.

heres a little article and pics that may explain it

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jointing-and-planing/auxiliary-planer-bed

it works real well. 

ive planed some hard exotics down to 1/8" using the auxilliary bed- purpleheart, bloodwood i recall offhand. very light passes and it worked good. they dull blades real quick,though.  some day someone will donate a drum sander to the TOM foundation- a non profit organization helping woodworkers in my shop expand their abilities.

 

there are times, though, that i resaw on my table saw. with a thin kerf blade, i can get 2 pieces of 1/4" thick stock out of a 3/4" thick board.

 

 

 

Thanks Steve, this is great. And that's the exact planer that I have. I'll get busy and build this.

Ray

 

[tomsteve]

2 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Do you have any recommendations as to suppliers? I never thought of going to eBay. Thanks for the tip.

Ray

 

ocooch hardwoods have lumber down to 1/16" thick. not the widest of selections, but they are good to deal with.

 

http://ocoochhardwoods.com/scroll_saw_lumber.php

[amazingkevin]

On 2/13/2018 at 8:09 PM, kmmcrafts said:

If you want to end up with 1/4" finished piece.. I'd cut it at 3/8 - 1/2" Also make sure they are going to be long enough to go through the planer safely.. I've run down to 1/4" in my planer but I get a little uncomfortable going any less than that.. also take several small passes rather than larger ones..

I also really want one of those open end drum sanders.. make cutting board making easier..    

I tried to find out the minimum length that will go  in a 13" Ryobe but no luck

[kmmcrafts]

23 minutes ago, amazingkevin said:

I tried to find out the minimum length that will go  in a 13" Ryobe but no luck

■ Do not plane a workpiece less than 3/16 in. (5 mm) thick.

■ Do not plane a workpiece less than 3/4 in. (19 mm) wide.

■ Do not plane workpiece shorter than 14 in. (356 mm) long as this will cause kickback.

■ Do not plane more than one workpiece at a time

■ Do not lower the cutter head assembly lower than 3/16 in. (5 mm) 

Copied from the online manual page 13 of 18 under heading Planing

http://manuals.ryobitools.com/system/files/479/original/AP1300_045_eng.pdf?2017

[amazingkevin]

16 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

■ Do not plane a workpiece less than 3/16 in. (5 mm) thick.

■ Do not plane a workpiece less than 3/4 in. (19 mm) wide.

■ Do not plane workpiece shorter than 14 in. (356 mm) long as this will cause kickback.

■ Do not plane more than one workpiece at a time

■ Do not lower the cutter head assembly lower than 3/16 in. (5 mm) 

Copied from the online manual page 13 of 18 under heading Planing

http://manuals.ryobitools.com/system/files/479/original/AP1300_045_eng.pdf?2017

perfect but In did run the 6" Brazilian cherry threw many time to get rid of the 1/4" splines on one side .Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Great place to buy from   http://www.dndhardwoodsonline.com/

[Sycamore67]

You can run short boards thru a planer BUT do not complain when you have a problem.  It is not a good idea at all and dangerous.  

[OCtoolguy]

Thanks for all the great answers and advice. I will take each and every one of them into consideration before attempting anything stupid. I might just not do anything at all. It was just a chance to make use of some very exotic hardwoods and end up with veneers for marquetry. I may just take the whole mess up to the guy who taught me how to scroll marquetry. He has all the right equipment to work with and maybe I can make him a deal on a split of some sort. Thanks again to all.

Ray

 

[Gonzo]

On February 13, 2018 at 10:14 PM, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Hello Ray

You ask alot of questions in this post and will take a long time to comment and explain but I will try to give you my shortest version. I too have a Delta open frame bandsaw. 3/4HP motor. This is not alot of HP for resawing and thus I went to carbide bandsaw blades and have used them mainly for resawing and they are Lennox. I use a 3/4" blade. They are the max that saw can handle but gives me a nice rigid back to the blade and less flex. They work great and I have cut all sorts of exotics to hard maples up to 10 " wide. I have a riser kit on my saw and you did not mention this so not sure if you do so that may hinder the height of your wood that you can resaw. You can get other blades that are less expensive but do not last as long. If you are not doing alot of resawing this may work for you. It does not for me. Here is a great place to get blades from and great people to answer questions and recommend the correct blade. http://suffolkmachinery.com/ I use them all the time. You want a blade with 2-3 teeth per inch skip tooth resaw blade. This will not get you a perfect smooth finish but will cut wood faster. Not sure how well your saw is tuned but you need a tall fence. There are two types (pivot fence where you follow a line on top of the wood when slicing and the wood rides against a half round dowel for pivoting purposes, or a flat fence like a tablesaw where you run the wood against with proper spacing) The pivot fence is more forgiving in set-up but tough to follow sometimes. If you use a flat fence it must be tuned to the blade you are using accounting for drift. All blades will have drift as well as all scrollsaw blades. That is why you scroll always to a side and not straight in a line. How to set your saw for this is too long for me to get into but you can google it or I can explain in another thread. Having a well tuned saw helps.

Always cut the slices larger than needed than mill to size needed. Having a drum sander is the best case scenario which is the way I mill my woods. You can  use a planner and hopefully your blades are in good shape. You can use a carrier board and one which I would suggest doing if getting down to 1/4" But that board needs to be dead flat and long enough to support the entire length of your pieces and then some. I prefer MDF when doing this. Now all planners will cause snipe and do not let anyone tell you theirs doesn't because it is a lie. So you need to account for this. To do this you need a leading and lagging sacrificial piece in front of and behind so that the blades plane before and past your good work piece. A method to secure the wood and sacrificial pieces to the carrier board are needed. Double sided tape will work. I prefer to use outdoor carpet tape. It has the toughest adhesive on the market. I get it in home depot in the carpet dept. Will warn you it is hard to get off so care is needed when stripping to keep from cracking the thin boards. I would only use strips on the outside edges but keep in a couple inches from the edges.  The whole key is to take light passes and you won't cause divots and tearout. Also need to feed the wood in the proper grain direction. Here is an article that can explain it better. http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/avoid-tearout-reading-grain/  After all said and done they still need sanding and random orbital or pad sander works well. Hope this helps some. Any questions I would be glad to answer. By the way if you use a carrier board you can plane down to an 1/8" if you would like. 

JT,

What a very informative reply, thank you. The article you suggest for proper grain direction is priceless. One question for you though. What do you mean by using a carrier board?

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

14 minutes ago, Gonzo said:

JT,

What a very informative reply, thank you. The article you suggest for proper grain direction is priceless. One question for you though. What do you mean by using a carrier board?

All it is is a thicker piece of wood that you can attach the thin veneer to as you plane it down. If you do not do that the thin wood would have tearout and probably be destroyed. You can call it a planer sled too if you would like. I do this all the time when using my tablesaw too. If I am cutting small pieces or thin pieces I will double stick tape them to a piece of 1/4" plywood or sometimes cheap wood paneling strips. This keeps my fingers and hands further away from the blade and makes things safer. Also keeps from having to chase those small pieces around the shop as they get thrown and kicked back.