Wooden Gear Clock

[oldhudson]

I've begun adding the Center Arbor, gear, motor mount etc. I think I may have a couple of issues. I'm trying to move forward without gluing parts, so I can backtrack if needed.  First, the fit between the Escape and Third Arbors seems fine but look how much tighter it is between the Third and Center Arbors. It just seems too tight?  Secondly, in the third pic see how 'proud' the gear of the Center wheel is? Doesn't seem right. I checked all my supports, connectors and washers - all the correct size.

[don watson]

The fit between Third and Centre arbors does indeed look (and is) too tight. At first I thought the gear had 'sprung' ie opened between the gaps around the circumference but that doen't seem possible if the gears are all running true about their centres. The 'proud' gear could be fixed by a couple of small washers behind the small gear but it may be that the large gear is too far out and this would not solve the problem. The truth is I can't really help as I have much the same problems with the clock I am building but the designer says to 'adjust' pieces to suit ??

Hope someone can help with your problem you are doing a great job.

Don W

PS I am cutting some parts, escapement for the second time, escape wheel for the third time and pendulum hanger for the second time. I cut the third wheel twice before I found the original drawing had the centre hole 2mm out of position. When I pointed this out to the designer all communications with him have ceased.

[Rolf]

Don, I have built three wooden gear clocks and have patterns for another. All three were done for SSWWC, there is never enough space in an article to provide all of the details that I would have liked. What makes sense and is obvious to me is not always so obvious to some one else, I make my best effort to help with any questions that are sent to me, and on several occasions there were issues with the patterns, even though we proofed over and over.  What an eye opener that has been for me. 

That said there is no excuse to not respond or make every effort to correct or clarify problems that arise.   I have written down all of the corrections and clarifications, for the one clock that I provide a hardware kit for I send that list with pictures with the parts or to any one that has a question.  I have also written the same for the electromagnetic clock. 

The most important thing for me is to see someone succeed in building a working wooden gear clock.  2

2 mm off center wow. 

Edited May 3, 2020 by Rolf

[oldhudson]

This is such a bad time of year to be involved on a project like this with so many outdoor projects that need attention. For example our second had patio furniture really needs to have some rust cleaned off and be re-painted. I appreciate you keeping an eye on this project. 

Two mm off - WOW indeed.  Be well.

[don watson]

I really was amazed at the centre hole being off. When I told the designer he sent me another drawing of the part saying " this dxf sketch is taken from the original drawings". It was the same as the original ??. I corrected in Vectric V-carve before cutting and finally cut it perfectly. I still can't get the clock to run so I am making some more replacement parts. One thing worries me that the pendulum hanger does not lie vertical. The hanger lies behind the escapement and forces the escapement to lie at an angle, I can move the main frame almost 90 degrees from the vertical and the pendulum is still not vertical. I am working on this problem at the moment.

take care

Don W

 

[Rolf]

Who's design?

[don watson]

Brian Law, his 'Starters Clock'

[oldhudson]

3 hours ago, don watson said:

Brian Law, his 'Starters Clock'

Have you been able to reach any other builder(s) of that clock? I've seen his YouTube vids, they look like nice clocks.

[don watson]

No, I have never seen any other mentions of the clock anywhere. There is usually a good selection of pictures/videos on his website but not seen anything so far, in fact I wasn't looking as I know I have made it to his drawings. I am a retired toolmaker (retired over 20 years now) and know how to operate a mill but I have redone most of the major parts in this clock and today I will make the escapement and the pendulum hanger again. I use Vectriv V-carve desktop and will check every size I can before machining.

His clocks are very nice and he has quite a few that are free but I believe that Clayton Boyer produces a lot more of the pieces I would like to make, in fact that will probably be my next project after this, the Robot Laboratory, I believe this is the 3 bots in the set of plans so that could take some time. lol

[oldhudson]

I thought I'd be refinishing a vanity but I found some time to look at the clock. This gear is made wrong. It's supposed to be drilled halfway at 7/32 and half at 1/4. And the set screw hole is centered on the entire 1/2" thickness, its supposed to be just on the 7/32 side of the gear. Making that over is the next step.

[don watson]

It really looks like check, check, check and check again. This may be the reason some of my parts don't fit too well lol

[oldhudson]

So I re-made this pinion gear last night. The change in position of the set screw is clear, but I don't know if you can see the two different bore sizes for the arbor and arbor sleeve. The fit for the sleeve seems fine and turning the gear by hand it engages the hour gear fine. Maybe this thing will run? The directions didn't call for it but tapped the hole for the 8-32  1/8" set screw.

[don watson]

I may be tempted to tap as well but it looks as if it is standard practice to just drive the allen screw into the wood. I think it makes the screw a tight fit and that is worthwhile. Your piece (shown above) certainly looks like the drawing and should work.

I had a word with the designer of my clock last night and I am about to strip the lot back to the frames and re-assemble as per his instructions The fit of the gears is paramount and he explained the process in detail. It looks like it will be a long job so I will get started.

[Heli_av8tor]

You could start a tap in but not run the thread to completion to give an easier and positive start for the set screw. Would still have the self-locking feature.

Tom

[oldhudson]

So I'm at the point where I need to make the hands....but I really don't like the look very much. What can I say?  I guess I'll make them and hope that I'm inspired to re-design them. Also a pic of where the whole thing looks like so far.

[oldhudson]

4 hours ago, don watson said:

I may be tempted to tap as well but it looks as if it is standard practice to just drive the allen screw into the wood. I think it makes the screw a tight fit and that is worthwhile. Your piece (shown above) certainly looks like the drawing and should work.

I had a word with the designer of my clock last night and I am about to strip the lot back to the frames and re-assemble as per his instructions The fit of the gears is paramount and he explained the process in detail. It looks like it will be a long job so I will get started.

Hey Don, glad you got some support on your build. It seems only reasonable that the designer would provide some assistance to builders.

[oldhudson]

38 minutes ago, Heli_av8tor said:

You could start a tap in but not run the thread to completion to give an easier and positive start for the set screw. Would still have the self-locking feature.

Tom

Tom, that's actually the path I followed. I was/am afraid that if I tapped through the screw would be too loose. Thanks.

[don watson]

I managed to follow his advice and eased all the gears/teeth and reassembled. It ran a couple couple of times for a few seconds then I ran it for 43 minutes. Inspired by this I marked all the gears where they were in mesh, stripped the machine down, sanded the teeth again. After re-assembly I have managed to get it to run for a maximum of 5 seconds. I intend clearing and cleaning out the small shed today before I do something rash with this clock.

take care

Don W

 

[oldhudson]

4 hours ago, don watson said:

I managed to follow his advice and eased all the gears/teeth and reassembled. It ran a couple couple of times for a few seconds then I ran it for 43 minutes. Inspired by this I marked all the gears where they were in mesh, stripped the machine down, sanded the teeth again. After re-assembly I have managed to get it to run for a maximum of 5 seconds. I intend clearing and cleaning out the small shed today before I do something rash with this clock.

take care

Don W

 

Cleaning the shed sounds like a excellent idea, but not much fun. It's spring maybe you should treat yourself to a afternoon fishing and just maybe trout for dinner?

[don watson]

I managed to thoroughly clean out the shed and I must admit I feel a lot better for it. (and so does the shed)

I have a plaque to make, some engraved text on a piece of Gravoply so that should keep me away from the clock again for a while. Unfortunately in Scotland we are still in lockdown ( although it seems too little too late ) and fishing is off limits at the moment.

take care

Don W

[oldhudson]

I'm still plugging along. Both the hour hand and minute hands needed to be press fit (the tube was 9/32 OD and the hole on the hand was drilled at 9/32 ) to their respective tubes.  I used this set-up to create a "press" with a tooling block and vice. The job required the tubes go through the hands and be 1/4" proud. (The stock for the hands came from a chair that was the first piece of real furniture my wife and I purchased. The leather gave up long ago but I kept the wood. It was marketed as Brazilian Rosewood.) For stain I used powdered RIT Scarlet dye mixed in hot water. Then wiped on General Finishes Java followed by a couple coats of rattle can shellac. Will this clock run by the 4th of July???

[OCtoolguy]

On 5/26/2020 at 9:44 AM, oldhudson said:

I'm still plugging along. Both the hour hand and minute hands needed to be press fit (the tube was 9/32 OD and the hole on the hand was drilled at 9/32 ) to their respective tubes.  I used this set-up to create a "press" with a tooling block and vice. The job required the tubes go through the hands and be 1/4" proud. (The stock for the hands came from a chair that was the first piece of real furniture my wife and I purchased. The leather gave up long ago but I kept the wood. It was marketed as Brazilian Rosewood.) For stain I used powdered RIT Scarlet dye mixed in hot water. Then wiped on General Finishes Java followed by a couple coats of rattle can shellac. Will this clock run by the 4th of July???

I have no idea whether or not it will run by the 4th but I'm sure it will run at some time. You are doing a masterful job on it. I love the pictures you've given us. Thanks.

 

[don watson]

I have not looked at the clock since the 15th of the month. Found too many things/projects that need done/finished when I cleaned out the shed, I feel better for it as well as I was getting a bit stressed. I hope the 4th July doesn't come too soon and you get a chance to get your clock running.

take care

Don W

PS I put the picture up in Bragging Rights

Edited May 30, 2020 by don watson
PS

[Rolf]

I drill the hole then soak with CA then tap it. 

I have been working with Brian Law for a long time and he has been an absolute jule to work with and his cad drawings, at least the ones I have worked with are always spot on.

I have done no woodworking since I got my engine back. Been busy putting it in and dealing with all of the small details. an extra 50 HP requires a few other tweaks.

 

Edited May 30, 2020 by Rolf

[don watson]

I will leave my clock for a while as it is getting me worked up whenever I try to understand what is going on. I don't think backlash is a problem as the gears oly drive in one direction, I don't understand how the movement improved after a quick sand on the gears and then stopped when the gears were given another quick sand ???

take care

Don W