Hawk 220

[kywoodmaster]

Saw this but I know nothing about a Hawk. If I decide to go look at it what do I need to look for?

 

https://chillicothe.craigslist.org/tls/d/waverly-rbi-hawk-scroll-saw/7089770868.html

[kmmcrafts]

While Hawks are generally great saws.. and depending on the style of cutting you do you may love this saw or hate it.. as not all of them are what I consider a great saw.. and this one would fall into that category for me because... First off.. it's a single speed saw... second is this is a very early made saw.. guessing early 80's and it doesn't look like they have the up front tension release lever.. so you release the tension at the back of the saw.. The other thing is.. these used the barrel style round clamps and a lot of people hated those.. I have a older saw with them and I don't mind them myself but it did take me a while to get used to them. 

With all that said $100 isn't a bad deal I suppose for a Hawk saw if you can live with the things I mentioned.. Things to look for.. would be make sure it comes with the F wrench which is to hold the upper blade clamp while you tighten it.. See this link for a picture http://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/f-wrench-for-barrel-style-blade-holders/

Check the back wedge shape under the tension release knob for wear.. should be a fairly sharp point on the end that touches the upper arm.. If that is really rounded over it could cause tension fluctuation while sawing and break a lot of blades.. NOW This wedge can be sanded down to reshape it to a point.. and new ones can be had pretty cheap.. However the upper arm over a lot of use also wears and could need to be sent out to Hawk to be re-machined to make the saw work properly.. Now days they drill out the area and fit it with an insert that is easilly replaced rather than just machining the arms.. But you have to have it machined for this insert.. once done you never have to send it in again.. just buy the inserts and new wedges..

$100 isn't a bad deal... but for me.. I'd pass and pay a little more for a later model with the up front tension release and variable speed myself.. Maybe find a deal on one of them for $100 one day if you wait it out and keep watching.. I gave $100 for my first Hawk with was the later model.. deals are out there sometimes.. I think you'd be able to get your money back out of it if you didn't like it.. Might throw a offer and get it a little less than $100.. Just know that it's not the most user friendly saw... especially for inside cuts.. if you do a lot of fretwork..     

[BadBob]

I have a Hawk 220 that I bought for $100. Mine is a two speed saw. You can change the speed by moving the belt. The saw was lightly used (never by the second owner) and neglected for a long time. I had to spend over $100 on parts and upgrades. Parts I remember replacing were the power cord and switch assembly, upper clamp, and bellows. Previously I had used a small cast iron AMT scroll saw. The saw cost me around $300 in total. I was pleased with it, and it was my primary saw for several years until I bought a used EX21. Today it is my backup saw.

There are only a few things I'm not too fond of about myHawk 220. I wouldn't say I like the aluminum table. I want to use magnets for all sorts of things, and having a steel or cast iron table just works better for me. Blade changes are much more complicated and take longer than the EX21. The lower clamp will sometimes go flying if you break a blade. Buy extra clamps.

I make toys mostly.  The Hawk is suitable for making toys because inside cuts are minimal. If I were cutting fretwork regularly, I would not use this saw.

All said and done; I don't regret buying it.

@kmmcrafts I have never seen one of these wrenches before. How do you use it?

Edited March 11, 2020 by BadBob

[kmmcrafts]

35 minutes ago, BadBob said:

I have a Hawk 220 that I bought for $100. Mine is a two speed saw. You can change the speed by moving the belt. The saw was lightly used (never by the second owner) and neglected for a long time. I had to spend over $100 on parts and upgrades. Parts I remember replacing were the power cord and switch assembly, upper clamp, and bellows. Previously I had used a small cast iron AMT scroll saw. The saw cost me around $300 in total. I was pleased with it, and it was my primary saw for several years until I bought a used EX21. Today it is my backup saw.

There are only a few things I'm not too fond of about myHawk 220. I wouldn't say I like the aluminum table. I want to use magnets for all sorts of things, and having a steel or cast iron table just works better for me. Blade changes are much more complicated and take longer than the EX21. The lower clamp will sometimes go flying if you break a blade. Buy extra clamps.

I make toys mostly.  The Hawk is suitable for making toys because inside cuts are minimal. If I were cutting fretwork regularly, I would not use this saw.

All said and done; I don't regret buying it.

@kmmcrafts I have never seen one of these wrenches before. How do you use it?

Easier to explain if you watch this video.. For the F wrench discussion you can skip to around the 10 minutes into the video and they'll the proper blade installing.. They also show the round barrel clamp usage.. If you are loosing the blade holders when breaking a blade.. you have a missing or weak blade holder keeper.. ( The plastic piece on the bottom arm shown in the videos ) Many folks eneded up making one of their own out of metal as those plastic ones the plastic get old and brittle over time and they break or they just get weak and do not hold the blade holder up good like they should..)

 

[kywoodmaster]

Thanks for the info guys. I think I will let this one pass.

[BadBob]

On 3/11/2020 at 9:21 AM, kmmcrafts said:

Easier to explain if you watch this video.. For the F wrench discussion you can skip to around the 10 minutes into the video and they'll the proper blade installing.. They also show the round barrel clamp usage.. If you are loosing the blade holders when breaking a blade.. you have a missing or weak blade holder keeper.. ( The plastic piece on the bottom arm shown in the videos ) Many folks eneded up making one of their own out of metal as those plastic ones the plastic get old and brittle over time and they break or they just get weak and do not hold the blade holder up good like they should..)

 

I just use an Allen wrench of the appropriate size. I have seen this video before but since it was not for the model I have I never watched it all the way through. I have a metal keeper. It is rare for it to come out but it does once in a while. Use usually when I am not quick enough turning off the saw. Everything that gets dropped in my shop will bounce or roll across the floor into the darkest corner available.