Ken O Posted March 22, 2011 Report Posted March 22, 2011 A friend of mine loves my wood hydroplane and asked me if I could build him one. I ordered a new set of plans last week and go them in the other day. He wants to paint it as the 1958 Miss Bardall. For most of the ribs I'm using 1/8in birch doorskin. I would like to use some of the nice birch aircraft ply but his budget this time won't allow that. I'll post some pictures tomorrow, (the cable for my camera disappeared ). This will be another big one at aprox 55 inches long and 24 inches wide. Have to get this done quick, he wants to take it to a race in Seattle next month! Quote
Messman Posted March 22, 2011 Report Posted March 22, 2011 This should be a very interesting roject to follow Quote
Ken O Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Posted March 22, 2011 I got started last weekend and have all the ribs cut and the front all tacked together. It has the general shape but just looks like a skeleton right now. I learned a lot from when I did my 59' Miss Spokane and quickly changed a few minor things on the plans that didn't go together well. Plus I want to get it as close to the original as possible because it may be put into the Concourse judging contests before the races. Performance is important but if it doesn't look good then what's the point? Quote
amazingkevin Posted March 23, 2011 Report Posted March 23, 2011 That's going to be a beauty.I'd love to see work in progress on this one!I love hydro's especially mushroom shaped ones.yours looks like a go fast!We have a winner! Quote
toolbeltman Posted March 23, 2011 Report Posted March 23, 2011 Looking forward to seeing this one unfold Ken....God's speed with the build.. Quote
Ken O Posted March 23, 2011 Author Report Posted March 23, 2011 Ok, here we go! The first thing I had to do was blow the plans up to the right size. They come as 1/8th scale and I needed 1/6th scale. Then I started cutting out all the ribs. The first 2 are going to be 1/4 in birch ply and then reinforced on the inside because you need it strong enough to hold the turn fin. After I got the ribs all cut out I had to do the side pieces that make the shape from front to back. Quote
Ken O Posted March 23, 2011 Author Report Posted March 23, 2011 Here are some of the corner blocks to help strenghten the joints. I will put a corner block in every corner I can get into. These things can take a beating so all the bracing is well needed. Quote
toolbeltman Posted March 24, 2011 Report Posted March 24, 2011 Nice project.....good to see it coming along :popcorn:thanks for posting.. Quote
amazingkevin Posted March 24, 2011 Report Posted March 24, 2011 Wow Ken ,Your a real boat builder and from scratch!The self satisfaction of doing a project like this must overwhelm you.Each little step you do is poetry in motion for all the exact measerments,fitting adjusting,modifying,patterning,cutting,glueing.There's so much to do and a step at a time.I'll go back and read the post as i just jumped to the end to say a few words.Is a jig needed and do you have to build that?What powers the boat?How fast would be expected of it ,and is it a tunnel hull?What kind of glue do you use.How long does it take to set up,and what would the boat weigh in at topped of?If you answerd these all ready no problem.Thanks You have my utmost interest in this boat.! Quote
Ken O Posted March 24, 2011 Author Report Posted March 24, 2011 Kevin, I dont do them very often so no jig needed. It is a tunnel hull so to make it sit on the table better I built a piece that will fit up under the tunnel so the sponsons don't touch. As long as the bottom through the center is flat you can pretty much eyball the rest. The plans are not perfect so there is some tweaking to do once the parts are put together. Easier to cut outside the lines and sand it back to get the shape you want. This one will be powered by a 26cc water cooled weedwhacker motor with tuned exhaust (like a dirt bike ). Not sure on weight, but mine is about 17-18 lbs and I expect this one to be about the same. Pretty heavy for a model but it will stil do low 50's in race trim. Quote
amazingkevin Posted March 24, 2011 Report Posted March 24, 2011 Shazaam!That's a mover and a shaker! Quote
Ken O Posted March 24, 2011 Author Report Posted March 24, 2011 The best thing is when I go over to races in Seattle and beat up on the fiberglass boats that people spend big $$$ on. $400-$425 for a fiberglass hull or $100-$150 for one I build. Quote
amazingkevin Posted March 25, 2011 Report Posted March 25, 2011 Now that kind of feeling stimulates my blood!I started out in rc 's with a used hydro but was lied to about the boat and had to put a new motor in and then gave it to someone else.the motor was $100.00Working on it was whorth the experience,a lot like surgery,lol.then i went to a monster truck 2.5 horsepower but did not enjoy and traded for a banjo.I'd still like a boat though.I have high anxiouty listening to your storys about this boat of yours.Fiberglass is made from soybeans so your friends have soy bean boats,yuck! lol.corvette's are soybean chevy's lol!The construction of your boat intreges me to no end at how intracate it is.Beautyful work!Go win a race !Do you use the 4 cycle weedwackers or the 2 cycle ones? Quote
Ken O Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Posted March 25, 2011 Mine are 2 stroke specially made marine engines. I run about 8oz of oil/gal (about 1 cup). I know that sounds like a lot but these are full throttle the whole time they are on the water. I also run Coleman camp fuel instead of reg gas. It's a little more expensive but the carb diaphrams dont go bad because there's no Ethenol in it (Ethenol soaks up moisture and moisture warps the carb diaphrams). I even run my race fuel in my home weedeater because it seems to start and run better overall. But this is a woodworking site so I'll keep the motorhead stuff to a minimum. Quote
Ken O Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Posted March 31, 2011 More progress this last week. Got the non-trip sections done on the rear. Just glued them on and sanded them back flush. Quote
Ken O Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Posted March 31, 2011 Also got the sponson bottoms done. Used 1/16th in birch aircraft grade ply. That's about the only thing that I can bend easily that will stand up to the punishment. Also adding a lot more braces, which also adds gluing area. Doing the sponson sides next. Quote
amazingkevin Posted March 31, 2011 Report Posted March 31, 2011 I think i'd rather try building a boat more than a clock but maybe!i love seeing your work in progress.Very proffessionally built i might add.i'm sure your not showing any winning secrets in boat building ,top secrets from the competition!,lol.i had thought about being able to draw water into the inner most turning circle of the race corse boats pontoon to add needed weight to hold down the boat from flipping on high speed full throttle turns.A simple servo could do the trick and then dump the water when on the straight away's.Do you use hydo foil fins to help manuverablity too?Gosh i wish i had some hands on experience like you! Quote
Ken O Posted April 1, 2011 Author Report Posted April 1, 2011 Kevin, check your email. I don't think I can post the plans on here but I'll send them to anyone that asks. All the ribs, bottom and rear non trip areas are 1/8 in birch doorskin. The rear of the sponsons, transom and engine rails are 1/4 birch ply. The sponson skins are 1/16 birch aircraft ply. The 1/16 birch ply is the most expensive of all the wood used. I use 2 part epoxy to glue all the parts together. Kevin, The turn fins we use are angled or curved to improve cornering. The only time there is a fear of blowing over is on the straights. They corner very well. Quote
amazingkevin Posted April 1, 2011 Report Posted April 1, 2011 Thanks ken ,i'm scratching the top of my head with one finger, as i did'nt know! Quote
Ken O Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Posted May 5, 2011 A few more progress pictures. Got both sponsons done and the whole inside coated with epoxy. Quote
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