blame

actually i read a small 1 page article in the spring ScrollSaw Woodworking & crafts issue about scroll saw basics and it got me to thinking about writing some on the basics of using the scroll saw. where most articles are wrote based on the patterns i was thinking it would be nice to see different articles about machine maintenance , blade selection and tension , project selection and skill level , wood selection and species and photographed how-to's on cutting techniques , preporations and the like. over time I'll be contributing on these subjects as i learn them to help broaden the community I'm really into scrolling and sharing knowledge about it but i also enjoy turning a lot and actually spent more time on my lathe then i did the scrollsaw when they where both available. another obsession of mine is wood species collecting and identification. so articles and pictures will surely find there way here on that as well so i was thinking it might make it worth your wild to broaden the subjects on here just my thoughts thou blame

Lovin my Linux

wonderful job Christina i love it

thats cool nothing wrong with being in the logging industry just they needed to think ahead rather then just using up everything they could grab. i had reclaimed some cherry wood from a 150 year old house that i torn down made my daughter a cradle for her baby dolls from it. only house i ever seen that was built almost completely from native oak.

I'm right there with you William i dont get the out look that most have about throwing things away. look at the forestry industry most in the biz look at the forest as a renewable source but its not IMO sure we can grow pines and other softwoods on plantations and in 40 to 50 years harvest the 18" to 20 " trees but the old growth timber that actually has structural strength is all but gone and will never been seen in our lifetimes unless it reclaimed from 100+ year old buildings. a sign of the times! have you thought about trying to track down the specs on that bushing? and having a local machinist machine it out

i love turning almost more then scrolling i need to get back to these unfinished projects but my list is just to heavy right now

well i have a miter saw but dont use very often in cutting miters unless i'm doing interior finish work. for framing i made a jig for the table that can be found in shopnotes magazine. http://www.shopnotes.com/plans/table-saw-miter-sled/ works better then the miter saw and is a lot faster to use since there is virtually no set up other then pulling it out from under the bench.

congrats Chris should be fun building those

you could do what i did and pick up an air brush compressor if you buy new there outrageously priced but you could surely find one in your local scrap yard or if you have a an air compressor and a bit of hose and a 1/4" ball valve that would work too

good god look at that pile of boards oh great job on the repairs

i took a couple of hrs and played around with the saw i'm ready for a top just not sure what i'm going to use yet. wonder how much a hdpe plastic sheet would cost? i took pics but there so dark you cant see anything so i'll take some more when i get back up there basically i finished welding the arbor to the height shaft. found out i wasnt in my right mind when i mounted it to the frame i put the upright that held the adjustment rod at the back of the saw i'm not sure why? so i redid it today. i still need to do alittle fine tuning on the the adjusters but they work and i think i'll be adding some more pillow blocks when i get the chance to! that should make it work alittle smoother.

after seeing Christina's post i watched these videos again and in the last one at the end the contractor that did the post and beam construction was saying that if some one wanted to buy a table and chair there going to buy one but at a price that no craftsman could make one for. it got me to thinking about the difference of the eras, and why! IMO it was in the start of our down fall. faster construction means more profit at what costs thou..... take it as you will but i feel quality took a back seat to quantity along time ago and Our throw away society is paying the price along with mother nature.

Sue check Here

Vector that turned out great you did a great job

great job on the portrait Sue i but that was just a little nerve racking to cut

Thats an interesting question William when i had my cheaper Wilton saw, which was basically a shop fox/ryobi clone. The blower baffle had wore a pin hole in it so wasn't really effective for blowing the saw dust off, so like you i just used my mouth from time to time after awile thou i ended up using a small compressor from my air brush set up. since i've had my Dewalt i've only used the on board blower.

Happy Fathers Day to all the Dads out there. May your day be blessed with good food good company and lots of shop time. Blame, Dad to Jordy, Kami, and Ramsey. I'm so Proud of them .

when i use to do it i used mainly Basswood along with Pine and White Oak. found that the latter two where difficult to burn due to the difference in the hardness of the growth rings.

well you did say defect so ..... Character is alot more fitting i wont be able to do a wiki page till some time in the fall i just dont have enuff time in the day

well i got the the tilt and height adjustment pictures i redid the the mount for the tilt so that it was easier to work with and braced up the joint for the motor placement for the Hieght adjustment rod mock up of the mounting for both hight and tilt height pivot rod mounted to the frame

here is a list of what are common and not so common defects Bark inclusion or pocket – a piece of bark wholly or partially enclosed within the wood, which is weakened as bark a result. Blackheart – abnormal black or brown discoloration of the heartwood, which is not necessarily decayed. Ash (Fraxinus spp.) can be prone to this. Black Stain - Usually caused by a piece of metal being encased by a growing tree. Blue stain, sap stain or sapwood stain – a bluish or light grey discoloration of sapwood, brought about by the growth of dark-coloured fungi in the interior and on the surface of the wood. Bow – the form of warping in which a board is bent or bowed lengthwise. Brittleheart – heartwood that snaps easily across the grain as a result of compression failure in fibres during growth. Canker – a disease-damaged area of a tree, usually caused by bacteria or fungus. Case-hardening – a defect of seasoning, where the surface of the wood dries faster than the core. This causes permanent stresses and ‘see’ (deformation) that are released when the wood is cut, resulting in severe distortion. Check – a longitudinal crack that does not go through the whole log or plank; usually caused by too-rapid seasoning. Chipped grain – torn grain due to poor machining or finishing. Collapse – a caved-in cell structure, caused during drying, giving a shriveled or irregular appearance. Common furniture beetle – Anobium punctatum, commonly known as ‘woodworm’, one of the most widespread insect pests. The damage is done by grub, which can live in the wood for up to two years before emerging as an adult. Compression wood – see reaction wood. Crack – a large radial check, caused by tangential shrinkage being greater than radial shrinkage. Crook – similar to bow, but curving in the plane of the thin edge, rather than the wide side of a board. Also, a tree typified by a sharp bend in the stem. Cupping – bending as a result of shrinkage across the width of a board. Cup shake – a split caused by lack of cohesion between the annual rings. Death-watch beetle – Xestobium rufovillosum, a beetle that is about ¼ in (6mm) long and very destructive to structural beams. The adults make a ticking noise, hence the name. End check – the separation of wood cells along the grain at the end of a piece of wood, caused by uneven drying. Gum, sap and pitch – resinous liquids found on the surface or in pockets in the interior of certain woods. Gum canal – an intercellular cavity, found in woods that may contain gum, latex or resins. Heart pith – the soft, spongy heart of a tree, which may appear on the surface of sawn timber. Honeycombing – a network of checks in the interior of timber, not seen on the outside. Knot – a section through a branch or twig which became embedded in the tree as the trunk continued to grow around it. Several types may be distinguished: branched know – two or more knots coming from a common center. dead, encased or loose knot – formed when the trunk grew round a dead branch. The knot is surrounded by a ring of bark and is often decayed. It may fall out, leaving a knot hole. live, intergrown or tight knot – the base of living branch, surrounded by growth rings and firmly fixed in the surrounding wood. pin knot – a knot whose diameter does not exceed ½ in. (13mm). spike or splay knot – a know which has been sawn lengthwise when the wood was converted. It may be tight at the base, but loose near the surface of the log. Lyctid borer – see powder-post beetle. Machine burn – burn marks on the surface of converted wood as a result of poor sawing or machining. Pitch pocket – a typically lens-shaped space, containing liquid or solid resin, that extends parallel to the annual growth ring in certain coniferous woods. Powder-post beetle – a beetle (Lyctus spp.) which attacks the sapwood of hardwoods with large pores, including as (Fraxinus spp.) and oak (Quercus spp.). Reaction wood – abnormal wood formed under the stress of compression or tension during growth, such as on the underside of a branch or leaning trunk (compression wood), or the upper side of a branch near the trunk (tension wood). The cells are typically shorter and thicker-walled, with spiral markings. The wood tends to be of poorer quality and not desirable for commercial purposes. Ring check, ring failure or ring shake – a separation of the wood fibres parallel to and between annual rings in the growing tree. Rot – a generic term for several types of fungal decay, such as: brown rot – the cellulose and associated carbohydrates are attacked, but not the lignin. This usually gives a light brown stain and a friable texture. At an advanced stage the wood will split along rectangular planes as it shrinks; this is referred to as cubical rot butt rot – a common disease in which fungal infection degrades the roots and stern of a living tree. Frequently caused by the fungus Heterobasidion annosum. dry rot -- a general term applying to any crumbly rot, but particularly one in which the wood is easily crushed into powder; typically caused by Serpula lacrymans fungus. soft rot – this occurs in the outer layers of wood in very wet conditions, such as in boats. The secondary cell walls are attacked by microfungi that destroy the cellulose content. Typically caused by the fungus Chaetomium globosum. wet rot – usually occurs in persistently damp conditions, and can be caused by a wide variety of fungi. white rot – a variety of fungus that attacks lignin and cellulose, creating a spongy, stringy mass, which is usually whitish, but may have shades of light brown, yellow or tan. Sap or sapwood stain – see blue stain. Shake – a split in wood, normally parallel to the growth rings. Skip – an area of a board that the planer has failed to surface. Spalting – partial fungal decay that often causes discoloration or fine irregular lines. It can be attractive for decorative turnery and the like, but the wood has lost its strength qualities. Twist – a type of warping in which the ends twist in opposing directions. Wane or waney edge – the presence of the outer surface of the trunk on the edge or corner of a board; bark may be present, or part of the edge may be missing. Warping – any deviation from a true or flat surface. This can include bowing, crooking, cupping, twisting or a combination of these. Wormhole – any hole made by boring insects or their larvae. note most of these where taken from the net just remember that what one person sees as a defect others see as a desirable trait

worked on the table saw some, added the supports for the tilt and height adjustment, built the arbor to bolt the saw blade too, i ended up buying a 5/8" bolt 10" long acouple of 5/8" washers and nuts. i was going to then use some bushings to take it to 3/4" but in the end i decided it would be better to just cut the bolt down to about 2.5" leaving about 1.5" of threads and an inch of 5/8" bolt left. then drill into the end of the 3/4" shaft and weld and pin them together while in the process of drilling out the hole in the end of the 3/4" shaft with every size bit i would get alittle further and further off the center mark, but i have a back up plan! i'm going to pick up a 1/4" boring bar for a metal lathe and mount it in my cross slide and bore the hole so it centered in the rod using the 1/2hp motor so i worked on the tilt, i think i figured out a way to make everything work the way it should i'll try to snap a few shots tomorrow( i keep forgetting the cam). i built the rods that will be the adjusters for the height and tilt as well. need to come up with some hand wheels yet might just use some solid chunks of oak i have laying around. i dont feel i really got that much done tonight. seemed like about every 10 minutes i was getting called away for some reason or another.

way the doctors talked it wasnt that big f a deal happens alot in the older crowd by what they where saying she has 3 options repair with a laser , repair by injecting a gas,or injecting silicone into the eye they did a couple of tests waiting on the results and any type of surgery will be next month and my sister is going to take her for that. i'm heading up this afternoon to try and get some stuff done on the tablesaw if everyone leaves me alone lol

i've had so much stuff going on i havent had time to get anything done on this took mom to the hospital today her retina was separating so she's due for surgery

that turned out awesome great job