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now thats pretty nifty! you did a great job on that one Linda

vector what kind of wood and how thick was it? on my dewalt saw i can use flat blades forever as long as i take my time while cutting. spirals are a different story i've been breaking alot of them as of late..... blame

u could check here there's all kinds of options lol http://www.google.com/products?q=hand+truck&oe=UTF-8&scoring=p

i used to do that with my wilton saw thats where they would break on it but these are breaking about the middle i've had the blades for about 2 years, i got them up in des moines from woodcraft store. bought a whole gross for 4 bucks off there discount rack they had gobs of them when i bought them (thought i was getting a deal) and there not being bent over to much i thought i was maybe kinking them(this would happen on my wilton saw as well) while trying to get them in the entry holes with the [wiki]dewalt[/wiki] saw the upper arm lifts so you have more room. cheap blades lol i'm such a tight wad

Do you use them? If you do, How often do they break on you? the wife wanted me to cut out a butterfly for her out 1/8" finnish birch ply ts about 30 or 35 cuts and i'm about half way thru the cutting and used 4 blades so far! i've been getting maybe 5 cuts per blade somethings up i think there defective blades (olsen) forget the size thou

i have a thought about toting it if you where to mount it to a hand truck it would make for handy way to move the saw by one person

nice tour handi thanks for sharing it with us

when i was a teenager, i use to help a guy that sold leather belts (all hand made) what we would do is set up the tables so that there was U shape with the bottom of the U being the front of the canopy we then set up a table in the middle and would demo the process of making the belts. the crowd couldnt get to the where we where working unless they came in the back which then we could stop them we also had full view of every piece we had for sale and nothing ever came up missing...

:( i dont have a shop anymore we sold our farm last fall to be closer to my family but in the weeks to come i'll show you where i'll be working

i enjoy building them then when all the hard work of building them is done i get to enjoy using them just wish the parts where not as expensive as they are lol i bought some used pillow blocks and new 204 3/4" bearings today $7 ea for the pillow blocks(same as new) and the bearings where 10 ea. then 42 cents a lbs for the shafting blame

my plans are to find time to finish my treadle lathe project - with my hand i'm going to just use pine , get our gardens planted(if it ever quits raining!), build myself a new table saw, design and build a portable swingblade mill from scrap later this fall. i wouldnt mind having a nice drum or thickness sander built from scrap and also i'd like to look into building a metal lathe and mill at some point ok i think i'm addicted to building my own tools lol i've built a table saw, lathe and thread cutters in the past those where fun projects blame

im not member bout the only thing i see coming from it would be hints and tricks people use but like you said the internet is a wonderful place blame

great job cutting that out bigdogskitten and great job on the pattern Travis

wow my god wdkits1 nice job!

great review vector thanks

i figure by the time i'm done i'll have $2500 into the sawmill but thats with me doing all the machining welding and everything the steel is whats going to be high , but thats half the price of the brandx mills another option might be to find somebody local to you with one as far as the lathe goes i found another site where a guy paid 35 bucks for a homemade lathe at an auction it got me to thinking about mine it was constructed from steel rather then wood. a good source would be your local scrap yard for most pieces (motors,bearings flanges,drive rods, odds and ends) i have every piece for my nephews lathe but a heim joint for the treadle drive

The Treadle Lathe FAQ http://www.inthewoodshop.org/methods/trlathe.shtml Large Treadle Lathe and Scroll Saw http://www.americanartifacts.com/smma/advert/ay174.htm finially found that link to the lathe i was talking about earlier http://www.mimf.com/articles/lathe/

was no trouble i enjoy helping those are just the common pieces you would find on ebay or PSI(Penn State industries) there is so much more out there i dont think i could gather all the types of chucks and mounting hardware there is like i said you should make the treadle lathe, i've had to put mine on hold. work is getting in the way as well with planting time coming up we've been trying to get everything ready. i'm also in the process of building a mile of fence and rebuilding a 1920's barn. too many projects on the cutting list i also have plans to build a swing blade sawmill this fall (google brand x sawmills, they are in Montana) so i can saw our own lumber and not have to use the chainsaw anymore i seen on another site where a guy used pillow block style bearing to construct the head stock and 3/4 horse motor on the treadle style frame to construct his lathe pretty cool really buy them Here for 8.03 ea here is the link to acouple ebay auctions for the shopsmith drive centers ebay auctions here is the 5/8" metal rod $6 (which is a deal i gave 11 bucks for mine locally) http://www.yalesteel.net/servlet/the-587/ROUND-ROD-STEEL-METAL/Detail you could find a cheap motor at the local auctions with a 1/2" shaft than all you would need is the pulleys 1 5/8" step pulley $12.99 and 1 1/2" step pulley $12.49 all in all it would be a pretty cheap set up add a 3/4" wide by 1/8" by 6" long cold rolled steel for the tool guide as a wear plate and you'd be set. oh you might want to get a couple 5/8" lock collars too here $0.80 ea. thou you'd want some chisels the craftsman ones aint bad and there fairly cheap on ebay. my self i have a complex about other peoples craftsmanship (factory workers!) so i'd rather make my own just need to make myself another forge or get my old one here from storagebut thats another project lol *edit* oh! i forgot for the tailstock you can cut the mt #2 taper with a reamer http://www.greenwoodworking.com/reamer.htm o need to book mark that site blame

while editing an existing page use [[page title]] to create a new link to your new page once you save the page you can then click on the new link and it will take to the edit page blame

basic parts of a modern wood lathe basic lathe accessories - tail stock end - Live center on top Dead center on bottom differences between the two is the live centers point turns with the work piece on a bearing where as on the dead center the work piece rotates on the point. the live center produces less friction meaning a smoother turning piece there are also some that have changable points for different projects like pen turning uses a 60 deg point for the pen mandrel. using the proper live center so you dont ruin your tooling there are alot of pieces for the tails stock you can get chuck mounting adapters too - head stock end - you have alot of options on this end too 2, 3, 4, or 6 jaw chucks, cole chucks, vacuum chucks, pen mandrels, screw chucks, pin chucks, friction chucks, index plates, face plates, multi-point spur drives and 2, 3, or 4, point spur drives, 5/8" dia headstock spur center for narrow spindles 1" dia headstock spur center for standard spindles Live ball bearing tailstock center with cup and point Hollow center for drilling 5/16" through hole screw chuck with 3/16" screw to mount and turn blanks. Ideal for small bowls. self-centering utility chuck Holds bowl blanks or spindles from the inside or outside self-centering, 3-jaw micro chuck is ideal for holding small projects from the inside or outside. cole or flat jaws for holding larger turnings drill bit chuck for drilling on the lathe Collet Chuck for holding the outside of small turning jam chuck for bowl turning Expanding Collet Chuck for holding from the inside indexing plate notice the holes drilled into the side for indexing face plate multi-point spur point different spindle adapters

i think you should build the lathe, it would be a fun project. here in abit i'll post some pictures of what i'm talking about blame

yup i use the 1/2 pvc but i mounted mine in an angled position on a scrap piece of 3/4" pine holds 12 blade sizes about half a gross per tube blame

so i think i have id the bush in question wrong it may the more common Russian Olive.... which is close relative to Autumn Olive main difference is that Russian Olive grows bigger , has less color , produces a white berry rather then a red berry like the autumn olive and also the Russian olive isnt suppost to have the silver shiny look to the undersides of the leaves. i'll have to wait acouple more weeks so i can id the species blame

i'm still working on the wood species i'm now done with the B's then i will go back thru and add pictures of the leaves, bark and dimensioned lumber as i get time blame

hi Christina i'd suggest it but i wouldnt use his method for building the drive center nothing wrong with the dead center he uses but the drive center is a dangerous part of the project rather i would spend alittle extra money for a drive center from a shopsmith and use a 5/8" steel rod for the head stock Pros: easy to obtain extra accessories ie jawed chucks, screw chuck, face plates, and pen mandrels(ebay) Cons: the plain end mountings are more expensive then the 1" 8tpi accessories another option is to use the more common 1" accessories and have a machine shop make you an adapter for the 5/8" plain end to 1" 8tpi threads but dont use the drive center he built it would be very easy for a work piece to come out of the 2 tooth drive center blame