blame

Welcome to the village Butch fire away where ready to help ya theres alot of really great talent here to help ya

nice job vector i wonder how it would look with either mitered corner or solid corner posts either a different species or the same. guess there would be some options for some verity anyway lol

hi joleet try using your search function to search for the file name i cant get the doc pages to load to help you with the name of the file i'd say wait a day or so then try downloading it again

Congrats sound like you have everything under control cant wait to see some pics

i have the dewalt saw when i got it and was setting it up i pulled it out of the box and put it on the stand everything else was already on it thou it came with a user manual and abunch of allen wrenches i never used them. The hold down was never put on i keep it with saw but never used it. i'd like to have the lamp that goes with it but feel its over priced and figure since i have 2 flex lamps i might mount one someday. the blower is like a small air compressor with a long hose to blow the dust away from you rather the towards. i think the dewalt is the best product for the money. about the only thing i dont like about it is the way the table is mounted it has alot of side to side play in it due to having left and right tilt which i dont use anyway but i'm sure i will at some point just dont really use the saw as much as i'd like to. i think for me the one best improvement that i can add is the foot pedal to lift the upper arm

here is gimp http://www.gimp.org/windows/ wonderful cross platform program

here ya go William http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/ssg/2009/04/printing-oversized-patterns-with-inkscape/

Hi Shelayla welcome to the village lots a friendly folk here feel free to ask question we'll be glad to help ya

Hi Chkorte and welcome to the village

lol guess i'm slow today cuz i dont get it but a suggestion for your class maybe you could add a dedicated forum for called The Workshop . blame

i've took some time this morning while waiting for it to warm up to continue working on the [wiki]Wood_species[/wiki] list feel free to join in and help expand the knowledge on the wiki. blame

those r cool when my kids where younger i bet they would of like to had some

most of mine come from the north east. far south i think they go are Tn. not sure thou havent had any contact with that side of the family for 18 or 19 years

hi William i cant help but wonder if where related in some way(i doubt it but you cant help but wonder) cuz my last name is also Day would have any relatives from south east Maine by any chance. well that aside welcome to the village pull up and feel free to discuss what your working on and enjoy your stay blame

welcome to the village Stan you'll see theres alot great folks here along with some really cool patterns what saw did you get? blame

what about a dremel with the plunge router base? i read somewhere where somebody was doing that i my self just use my 18 volt cordless drill http://www.totaltoolandhome.com/product.sc;jsessionid=C5BBD1151F7FFF427B81F2A66ABFA9F9.qscstrfrnt01?productId=243

nice holder travis

from the dremel owners manual Vibrations: Note: there will always be some vibrations present when t he saw is running because of the motor operations. 1. Improper mounting of saw. 1. See MOUNTING YOUR ScrollStation Pages 10. 2 Unsuitable mounting surface. 2. the heavier your work bench is, the less vibrations will occer. A plywood workbench will not be as good a work surface as the same size solid lumber. Use common sense in choosing a mounting service 3. Loose table or table resting on motor. 3. Tighten table wing knob. Assembly Mounting the ScrollStation NOTE: For proper stability, holes must be countersunk to a Bench screw heads are flush with the bottom surface of the s porting board. The ScrollStation should be fastened securely to a firm sup- porting surface such as a stand or workbench, using the three 11-7/8" mounting holes. NOTE: When mounting this saw to a workbench, a solid bench is preferable to a plywood bench where noise and vibration will be more noticeable. 7-7 We recommend to reduce noise and vibration, that a soft foam pad be placed between your ScrollStation and work- bench (not included). Quantity Description 1 Soft foam pad, such as carpet padding, 19-13/16"" 24â€x12â€x1/2†When mounting the ScrollStation to a workbench, holes Figure 3. Bench Mounting Template should be drilled through the foam pad or carpet and mount- ing surface of the workbench using the dimensions illustrated in Figure 3. Each of the three mounting holes should be bolted securely using no less than 1/4" hex bolts, flat washers, lockwashers, and nuts (not included). We recommend: Quantity Description 4 Hex Head Bolts, 1/4"-20 x 1/4"-20 x Length Required 4 Flat Washers, 9/32" I.D. 4 Lockwasher, 9/32" I.D. 8 Hex Nuts, 1/4"-20 (Hardware not included) Refer to Figures 3 and 4. 1. Locate and mark where the ScrollStation is to be mounted. 2. Drill the three (3) 5/16" holes through the workbench. 3. Place the ScrollStation on the workbench aligning holes in the base with the holes drilled in the workbench. Insert all three (3) bolts and secure using washers, lockwash- Figure 4. Table Mounting Hardware (not included) ers and nuts. NOTE: Do NOT overtighten mounting bolts. If using recom- mended foam pad, leave some cushion in the foam pad for absorbing noise and vibration. 24" Mounting the ScrollStation to Plywood 11-7/8" An alternative method of securing your ScrollStation is to fas- ten the ScrollStation base to a mounting board 18" x 24". Any 15" 7-7/8" good grade of plywood with a 3/4" minimum thickness is rec- ommended. Follow the instructions for MOUNTING THE SCROLLSTATION TO A BENCH, substituting the 18" x 24" board for the workbench and using 1/4"-20 flat head screws 19-13/16" for the hex head bolts (Figure 4). Screws must be mounted from underneath the plywood with washers and nuts on top. Figure 5. Plywood Mounting Template

i dont have this saw but by design there prone to have alot of vibrations there are a number of things you can look at to reduce it 1 you could mount the saw to a heavy bench with a thick rubber mat under the saw (easiest). 2 look at the balancer mounter on the motor and see if it is tight if it is you could take it off and mount it into a lathe and let it spin to see how much vibrations its producing. if does vibrate in the lathe you can see about getting it balance better at a machine shop . 3 check to make sure the parallel arm pivot points are lube d with alittle tool oil and are straight. my wilton saw i had was off and created alot of vibration due to the bushings in the arms being bad. course i didnt find this out til the lower arm broke . thats where i would start most likly it will end when you mount the saw to a bench. Blame

LOL that would be funny i want video of that! once a year? LOL here is a pic hacked to show my idea of the pedal function granted is a quick hack but shows the idea by pushing the pedal down it pulls the cable hooked to the arm i think it would help alot when doing any type of interior cuts 1 pc of cable 1/8" thick length depends on placement of the pulleys and pedals but 4 to 5 feet should get-R-done 2 1/8" pulleys 1 pc of steel flat stock 1.5" wide x 24" long 1/8" thick should be long enough (lifting arm) 24" ps should be a stanard precut size in most borg outlets 1pc of steel (or could be wood) 2" wide x 10" long x 1/8" thick pedal 1 pc of 3/8" ready-rod(all-thread) long enough to span the legs on the dewalt base to mount the pedal to acts as the swivel point 4 3/8" locking nuts(nylon nuts) to mount the pedal to to act as the swivel point 2 1/8" cable clamp 1 1/4" eye bolt with 2 1/4" nuts 1 small spring to return the pedal to the lift position does not need to be very strong as long as it can lift the pedal step 1> mark and drill your holes on the lifting arm step 2> mount the lifting onto the saw step 3> mount your pulleys step 4> drill your holes in the base for the ready rod step 5> drill the holes to mount the u bolt in the end of the pedal to clamp the cable in step 6> acouple of options to mount the pedal 1) weld the ready rod to the pedal if you have access to a welder or use JB-weld(liquid type) B) epoxy or JB-weld a 3/8" square or round pc of tubing to the pedal for your ready rod to go thru option B will save the holes from being bored out on the stand and last longer and operate smoother step 7> run your cable from the lift arm thru the pulleys and secure it to the pedal at the eye bolt step 8> install the spring so it pulls the pedal into the up position step enjoy your new gadget lol hmm i should have all the pcs for this now to complete my other projects before doing this one blame

foot pedal to lift the arm like on the older excaliber saws his design holds the arm up all the time where i'd want the foot pedal to lift it so i wouldnt have to apply down pressure while i was trying to tighten the blade in the clamp below is the saw in the arm lifted position (EZ-Lift)

np i also liked the caster idea for mobility thou thats not an issue for me right now but that HB lift would be nice only thing its lacking is a foot pedal which would be a nice addition doh! theres another project added to the list of i'd like to do's

heres a link to a site where a guy built an EZ-lift for Dewalt 788 saw (its at the bottom of the page) http://www.jamesriser.com/Machinery/dewalt/DeWALTScrollSaw.html

hi deb you could try gimp http://www.gimp.org/windows/