bonacker
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Everything posted by bonacker
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Well Kevin, Here It Is. Your Eagle In Acrylic
bonacker replied to bonacker's topic in Bragging Rights
My Ex21 with 2/0 blades work fine. Just don't use high speed and let the blade do the work You can use larger blades but don't use over a #2 or 3 blade, as it can get choppy and tight turns are difficult to get accurate. I have had no melting problems. Practice first on a piece of scrap acrylic. You'll soon see what works for you. -
Well Kevin, Here It Is. Your Eagle In Acrylic
bonacker replied to bonacker's topic in Bragging Rights
For my delicate work I love the 2/0 blade. -
I had to change the pattern slightly to make it like this.
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Sure it could. Just put it in a box frame. Find it in SSWC, Holiday 2007 p.68.
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Including the backing board, this project has 4 layers. Took me the better part of a week to do this. It is a pattern by Lora Irish and can be found in SSWC magazine, Holiday 2007, p.68.
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Table saws are dangerous. I almost lost a finger. Luckily it hit no bone. The other time I had kickback with a 2 by 4. Hit me in the fleshy part of my abdomen. If I'd been a bit to the right or left, probably would have smashed a hip. Scrolling is a safe way to make nice things. Has anyone ever had an injury from a scroll saw? Eight years scrolling and no blood yet!
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Rapid Resizer allows you to resize any pattern or any portion of a pattern you want. As a scroller, I've always said that it's the most useful software I have. I cannot be without it.
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It's not going to work. At the angle bend point, the ply will fray and the whole thing will probably warp. The plys (plies?) will probably separate. Why do this? The great thing about a scroll saw is that you can cut any angle or arc you want without compromising the integrity of the piece. I made a Japanese pagoda once and I wanted a nice sweeping curve for the roof. First thing I thought of was to steam or soak the wood to get the bend I wanted. Then I said "Why am I doing this when I can simply cut the arc I want without compromising its strength?" I cut it on my saw and it came out beautifully.
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I bought Rapid Resizer. Best software I have for scrolling.
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That's a great eagle, Kevin. Where can I get, or can you post, the pattern? I'd like to try it with acrylic.
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Really nice job! Thanks for showing us.
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You see the dolphin on one face. Turn it 90 degrees and you get the sailboat. If you look at the 3rd pic, you can see both adjacent sides somewhat.
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Nice job DW. Very impressive. I like your work.
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Are you covering your wood with tape before applying the pattern? This helps cutting by lubricating the blade. Try a little wax or even soap from a dry soap bar. Check to see if you are using the proper reverse type blade for the thickness of the wood. Are you cutting plywood or hardwood?
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OK. Thanks DW for the info. It's a good looking piece.
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I'd like to hear some opinions about this. I don't know about using polyurethane finish on items that come in contact with food. When I made something like this, I used salad bowl finish which is non toxic. General Finishes has one for this specific purpose.
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I used no jigs. Is there a jig for cutting circles on a scroll saw? I haven't seen one. The only tool that I found absolutely necessary was a compass for drawing the arcs for the sunset. Also for drawing the sun. I then cut the sunset arcs on the saw. You have to be careful doing this, but personally I think cutting circles is much easier than trying to cut a straight line. Don't stop when cutting circles or circle arcs. Keep cutting at a consistent speed and stay on your lines. If you stop, it will probably be beyond repair. I used minwax oil stain for trees, branches and landscape. Wipe on and brush for edges.. The sunset arcs are hand painted with acrylic paint using increasing/decreasing amounts of red and yellow. I needed a gradual transition from the yellow to the red-orange. I succeeded somewhat, but the color transition is not perfect by any means.
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Carl, I did not airbrush anything. Every piece was hand painted and hand stained. Every piece of the frame has cookies for strength. Took me about a month to do this.
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The 12 sided frame measures 26.5 inches in diameter. There are 6 layers here.
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I always buy from Sloanswoodshop.com. Their plywood has given me no problems. I usually use blue painter's tape. Just be careful when peeling off tape and peel with the grain of the wood, especially when doing fretwork.
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Len, I've only used 1/8" also. I should think thinner would be too fragile, but 3/0 or jeweler's blades might cut clean. It would probably cut OK if you sandwiched the acrylic between 2 pieces of thin baltic birch. Can one get thicker acrylic such as 1/4"? If so, where?
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See my 2 posts above on this site (Another With Acrylic) on how to cut them.
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Important: Acrylic comes with paper on both sides. DO NOT REMOVE the paper before cutting. Spray paste your pattern to one side and start cutting. I look forward to seeing your results here.
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If you have steady hands and cut carefully, there is no reason why you can't cut acrylic. If you cut wood well, you can cut acrylic well. It will cut cleanly if you use small teeth blades like 2/0, 0, 1, or 2 crown tooth or ultra reverse. Use slower speed than you use for wood. You don't want the plastic to melt, so take your time and don't force the blade. You'll be surprised how nicely it will appear. After a few tries, you'll figure out what works best for you. It will get you out of the rut of only working with wood. Broaden your horizons. It's worth it.
