steviegwood

Hi Y'all, I just got this portrait finished for a customer for Christmas. Thanks goes out to Ron (aka; Joleet) for a wonderful pattern that he made for me on this one. Comments and critiques welcomed. Steve

I have always used the Duro spray but wal mart has quit carrying it here. Ace hardware says their vendor has discontinued it. Elmers now has one out for about the same price that I am going to try shortly. I always spray the pattern, let it get tacky for a few seconds and then apply it to the wood: it is twice as bad trying to remove the pattern if you spray the wood. After cutting the pattern I apply thinner to the pattern and after letting it soak in a minute or so the pattern peels right off usually in one piece. Steve

I have used the table saw to cut perfect circles also (with a jig). By cutting away most of the waste first it does do a good job BUT BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL!!! Those saws are dangerous. You can also do it on a band saw. If you have a lot of circles to do I would consider this method or the router. One or two I would use the scroll saw and sand. Steve

I think that it is Seyco. Try to google that name. Steve

I agree with Travis on this one. I use the Duro brand of spray adhesive from Wal-mart/Lowes. I spray the back of the pattern wait roughly 30 seconds and then apply it to the wood. After cutting I use an old rag to soak the pattern with paint thinner from Wal-Mart (couple $$ a gallon). After a few minutes the pattern peels right off. I then wipe the wood with thinner and then a dry cloth. I usually let the piece dry overnight and then add a backer if needed and finish sand. then finish. Steve

It will come easier with practice, knowing when to change blades. Make a mental note of how they cut new and when they are getting dull you will know. If you are burning the wood you have well went past the point of where it needs changed. Now on some hardwood they will burn more quickly and you will have to change them more often. As for timing blade usage I do not know of a way to regulate that as some blades will last longer in the same wood out of the same pack. I find it easier and cheaper to change blades than to spend time trying to sand out burns. Hope this helps. BTW I buy my blades by the gross, they are cheaper that way after you get comfortable with certain blades that is the way to go. Steve

I also use the Duro brand spray adhesive. I get it at Walmart and Lowes also carries it. It is the cheapest re-positionable adhesive that I have found so far. Not knocking the 3M brands because they are good and so are others, just pointing out cost effectiveness. BTW, Welcome to the forum. Steve

Dave, I have one show that I do that is $125 for an 8x10 space. Good shows will cost a good fee. You may want to try some smaller shows first to get your feet wet. You will learn from other crafters about other shows and if anyone is selling the same type of product as you. It is a lot of trial and error but always look for better ways to set up & display. Remember an attractive and neat booth will draw more people than a cluttered booth will. Have some things up at eye level that will catch peoples attention. Steve

Funny that these are good sellers for you as these are ones that I have not sold. My best sellers are wildlife & John Wayne. As for religious pieces, crosses are my best sellers. Steve

All good advice so far. In case you have not noticed, stay away from flea markets unless you are willing to make and sell your stuff at flea market/yard sale prices. That said, I have done shows that I have not gotten my fees back & shows that were over $1500 in sales (2-3 shows). A wide variety is nice so that you may have something for everyone. I try to have a lot of items under $20 and a few from $20-$100. I have some of my personal portraits on display to let people see that I do custom portrait work. Most definitely have business cards to hand out. Acknowledge people by at least saying hi, you do not have to jump up and be right on their heels but let them know that you are friendly. I have solid color covers on my tables that come to the floor to hide my totes under the tables and that keeps a neater looking both. Mine are dark blue and black which gives a good contrast to the color of my products. I have found that if you have a couple of brain teaser type puzzles you can gather a crowd trying to figure them out. Always have someone at your booth and never leave early even if you are not selling anything. These are some things that I have learned that put a few dollars in my pocket. Steve

Hi Y'all, I got the book Making Wooden Fishing Lures by Rich Rousseau and was wondering if anyone has ever made any wooden fishing lures? I am still unable to use my hand so no cutting for me yet. It sure does look like it will be a lot of fun. If anyone has made any, please share some pics and any of the dos and do nots. Also if you have made any that really catch fish, I would be interested in seeing the finish on them. Thanks. Steve

I have been scrolling for 20 yrs or so and have used single speed machines and VS machines. If you like scrolling and think that you will scrolling for awhile then I suggest a VS machine. With different species of wood being different density and the various thicknesses you will be kicking yourself for not getting it when you have to sand off burn marks because of not being able to adjust the speed or mess up a delicate piece that you are almost done cutting because you can't slow the saw down. Those are a few things that I have ran into with a single speed saw. personally have to have VS, and be able to use plain end blades, Also toolless blade changing if you are doing fret work. Steve

first let me welcome you to the forum and your newly found addiction. although I can't help with the saw i can with attaching patterns to wood. first i make copies of my patterns and never use my original. i use a spray adhesive on the back of the pattern wait until tacky and then apply it to the wood. drill and cut. after cutting i use mineral spirits on a rag and wet the entire surface of what is left of the pattern and within just a few moments the pattern will peel right off. i then remove any adhesive residue with the rag and spirits. let dry and finish sand before applying any finish. As for the blade grabbing the wood, it takes time and experience to learn how much pressure that is needed to hold the wood to solve that. Some peoples will use the hold down foot on the saw to help with that but I find it gets in the way of cutting fretwork and can break a delicate project if not extremely careful. Practice,practice, practice if you are just starting and even a seasoned scroller can use practice at times. i hope that some of this is of some help. others will suggest some other methods for attaching patterns also. Steve

shweeet, that is nice. is that one of your own patterns? i don't think i have seen that design before. steve

hi folks, i just added my online gallery of past projects to my signature. if you click on the link it will come up as a slide show. just click the arrow at the bottom center to start the show. enjoy and any feedback or comments are always welcome. steve

wonderful work on that clayton. i have yet to try intarsia. it still seems so intimidating to me. maybe have to get you to give me so lessons and encouragement. how did you do the lettering in this project? i think that it would have looked good if they were walnut but again who am i to make an opinion as i have not even attempted the art and you have it down pat. steve

that turned out just awesome for 3/4" pine. i think it gives it a lot more depth or character (no pun intended). i think i have seen that pattern advertised before where is that pattern available? steve

let me clarify myself here as it was not my intention to scare you away from spiral blades nor to start a blade war. i am quite sure no one else intended this either. i have seen some beautiful cuttings done with nothing but spiral blades. ? for chris, what wood do you use for your cuttings for the most part? I use primarily solid red oak and when using spirals they tend to want to follow the softer grain of the wood instead of the line of the pattern. in a tighter grain wood or plywood i would think that they would be easier to control. i have seen chris's work and it is outstanding and i applaud him for doing it with spirals. now i like my flat blades just because i am used to them and i personally can control them better in the red oak that i use, generally i use 5/8" thick wood. i will admit that the only spirals that i have used have been olson blades and i found that they added more sanding time to my projects. i certainly would have been thrilled if i could have caught the hang of using spiral blades as i have several projects that are to big for my saw and i could accomplish getting them cut if i could get the spirals to work for me. enough jabbering. steve

here it is cut. steve

let's see if this works. this is my entry. steve

patty, do not bet that they are easier. i have tried them in the past and they have a mind of there own. i can not get used to them. steve

hi patty, welcome to the forum and a new addiction. there are a couple of quick things that i can point out for your situation. first you use the very smallest drill bit that will allow you to feed your blade through, you can drill you entry hole in a place where you have enough wood stock on both sides of the vein and widen your cut just a little to sort of feather out the entry hole somewhat. if you have the mini drill bits and use spiral blades you should be able to cut the veining without any problems and your entry hole will not be obvious. i am not sure if we have a blade/ bit chart here but most blade manufacturers will have this chart on their site. mike at mike's workshop has a chart and sells flying dutchman blades. he is well versed in scrolling and a gem to talk to when you call. i hope that this is some help. steve

thanks for the library reminder. it has been so long since i have been to a public library that i keep forgetting about that resource for info.. steve

hey, thanks for the links. these may kill some time. heck i make a mistake and actually learn something. but don' tell okay. steve

i looked at the 18" at sears a few weeks ago. for a $200 and change saw they do not look like a bad saw. i am not sure if by joining the craftsman club if you can get the 10% off on power tools or not. it does not cost to join the craftsman club. sometimes they will give a discount if you apply for sears credit card. i have two 16" craftsman saws out in the shop that i no longer use. i have a delta 18"q-3 that i am using and want to upgrade to an excalibur 30. Steve