kmmcrafts

Maybe I was overthinking this? But I figured the tarp or hanging plastic wouldn't hold the heat all that great.. I have 5-8 sheets of Styrofoam insulation the good 4 inch thick stuff.. I bought a boatload of the stuff on a awesome deal of $40 for as much as I could load on the truck.. I bought about 8 loads, LOL... it's what I used in my loft.. I sort of had in mind of making a wall out of the insulation sheets.. I'd probably need a few more sheets of it.. But I wasn't quite sure how to go about fastening them together and also how to go about fastening them to the floor and ceiling? Maybe frame some wall sections together.. make a section with hinges for a door? Not really wanting to put holes in my concrete floor to anchor it down..

Nope.. not talking about the Mexican boarder wall, Thinking maybe of splitting my shop in half for heating this winter... I don't really want to or even have the resources to heat the whole shop.. specifically because I ran out of insulation and the only part insulated is the loft ceilings which isn't finished yet either.. LOL and my shop is 24 x 32... with a 14 x 32 Loft.. BUT, the shop can be condensed to just one garage bay area so I was thinking maybe building a temporary wall down the middle to split it in half.. The stairwell would be on the unheated side to avoid having to make a doorway and block off the stairs etc.. as the heat would otherwise just raise upstairs in the loft.. In all honesty.. I could also build two walls in the back corner of the shop and only heat my scroll sawing station.. which maybe what I'll do.. just to cut back on heat cost.. but splitting the shop in half with one wall might be easier as just as cheap to build.. Like the wall to be a temporary wall that can be taken down.. I like the whole shop to be opened up in the summer if possible.. Plus.. since I also use the shop to work on cars at times.. Working on a brake job etc with a crowded wall right there on each side of the car would be inconvenient.. ( should have made the shop 32 wide instead of 24, LOL ).. I've considered building a sliding wall system much like a sliding garage door.. the track up on the ceiling could stay there and walls taken down.. and or just slide the wall to either end of the shop depending on what end of a car I'm working on etc.. Thought I'd ask here on some ideas and tips etc.. I am sort of a jack of all trades handyman but construction type stuff I,m at a loss.. Yes I've moved walls in my house, hung drywall, wiring, plumbing etc.. but I'm at a loss with temporary wall building, LOL.. Short of just hanging plastic anyway, LOL.. I'd like a little more insulation etc than just a plastic wall, LOL

I made an attempt to make one of these but I didn’t follow directions as usual.

JT, I was merely trying to say that vendors at a craft show could go above and beyond by helping promote the said show... IF all of the vendors did this the show could be a bigger better show.. I was just saying if you don't do great at a show is it really 100% the organizers of the shows fault.. There are lots of things the vendors themselves can do to help better themselves and other vendors.. Not trying to compare online to show sales.. I disagree with a lot of your statements but I'm not going there with it..

Glad to see you're back.. I've been wondering about you and a few others, I just figured a lot of folks doing summer vacations etc.. and they'll pop back in once the summer winds down. Sorry to hear that your case was health issues but glad to hear you're on your way to getting better..

I agree with Melanie... When selling online ( I assume somewhat the same with events ) you cannot determine if something is a hit or not until you offer the product for a good 6 - 12 months.. It's my opinion that anything can and will sell at most any selling price... it's more about getting the item and the price point seen to the right group of people.. That part there is hard to do at events... but much easier with online selling to target a specific group.. Something folks selling at events could do is to show products off that you make online via social media, and message boards much like I do but you'd need to target a local area.. then mention you'll be at "******" event selling them if anyone has interest.. It's called self promoting.. You can't always count on the show organizers to bring you the right buyers for your products.. Just as you cannot expect the buyers to be already on Etsy or any other site waiting for your products either.. I may be wrong... but I doubt many event sellers help themselves and other sellers of events by promoting their items themselves.. I know that most people who try selling online do not so why would a seller of an event do it..

I agree with Jim.. But that said.. did your pegas clamps come with the thumb screws that have the swivel end? If I remember correctly mine did not and I swapped out the thumb screws from my DeWalt.. I had a backup set for the DW so i used the new set of the swivel thumb screws.. I also had some issues with the thumb screws that came with my Pegas clamp.. but not sure now what I had issues with other than I remember the knobs on the Pegas clamps was bigger and smooth.. and I liked the smaller style that I had for my DW.. so I swapped them..

I don't know Hegner saws very well.. but I'm wondering why not just get a threaded wing nut like all the other saws use? Seems like a pain in the behind to have to use a tool to change a blade.. I know if I had to use a tool to change the blade on my Hawk I'd never get anything done.. as of late.. with my kids working on bikes and cars etc... my tools seem to keep walking off and end up in my son's car or my other sons room where he works on taking computers apart.. Now that they've picked up an interest in taking things apart so I can put them back together we gotta sit down as a family and talk about tool usage.. Put it back where you got it.. Other day while changing spark plugs in the tractor my youngest son thought since I had the tools out.. it'd be a good time to check his spark plug in his scooter.. while I had the tool sitting on the tractor to go to my tool box to get the plug gap tool and came back to the tractor my spark plug socket walked off.. I looked high and low for that thing.. I miss place my own tools bad enough.. I don't need help from the kids too.... While searching everywhere and about to start using some language my son comes walking in and ask.. dad hows this plug look.. holding my tool in the other hand,

Well now... you're supposed to shake the can? No wonder I never had any luck with spray cans.. The directions are not very specific.. It just says shake vigorously for 2 minutes... so I always set the can down and shake for 2 minutes then pick up the can and paint... Shaking those cans is very important especially if they been setting on the store shelf or our shelf for a long time.. I am fortunate to have a shaker.. but before that I just strapped the can to my lawn tractor tire and drove it around.. for a few minutes.. That always worked well.. That was back in the day when the kids were little and enjoyed getting in the little lawn cart and taking a ride through the woods..

Great looking signature! I like it very much. I always sign my work if possible. I either sign with woodburn pen or Sharpie pen. Only think I don’t sign is ornaments. Not usually a good place on them to sign. Never put the date either. Don’t want people thinking it took me 5 years to sell the piece they just bought.

Michaels or Hobby Lobby have it.. Just thin foam sheet.. kind of like felt sheet but smooth so it could be cleaned of dust easier etc..

I seen that pattern and thought I'd like to cut it myself... I just don't do much sales in the portrait type projects but would love to cut it someday.. Though I doubt it'd be cut as good as you did here.. Beautiful colors too!! What you use for the backers? color paper or foam sheets? I often use the foam sheets.. they seem to work quite well.. Anyway... top quality work as always!

I never had any issues with danish oil on fretwork. It doesn’t dry that fast where I live. If you have a lot of tight areas just blow the piece off with a air hose if you have a compressor.

Sounds like you do the same thing but in the top outer corner. I drill more into the lower center of the R leg and cut down to the outer corner, then work my way over to the center part of the R. Same thing you do I think. I probably didn’t explain it well enough.

Great advice JT.. I might add a tip.. The placement of your drilled pilot hole is very important too.. as is the direction you normally cut.. Many may not pay close attention to the direction they cut.. but drilling a hole so you cut out a inside cut cutting out around the fragile part first.. I'll use your photo JT and try to explain this.. I added a red dot to where I would drill a hole for cutting out the R in your photo.. From this red dot I found that cutting down to the bottom of the leg of the R and cutting in a counter clockwise direction cutting along the middle ( inner ) portion of the R makes the inner part stronger than cutting the outer part and then there is no support for the inner portion.. IF you cut in a clockwise direction.. I suggest drilling the hole on the other leg of the R and cutting along the inner part of it.. Hoping this makes sense to someone, LOL So in the beginning I pay close attention to the placement of my pilot holes.. so I drill them in a spot so I'm cutting out the fragile ( or what could be fragile ) first

I could be wrong here but I think the $250 leg set is for a "wide front " for a wheel chair to fit in.. the set I'm speaking of makes the saw stand only about 8-10 inch high for setting it up on top of a work bench.. By getting the "short leg" set you could probably make your own stand on an angle and bolt the saw to the homemade stand like you did with your DW.. That said though.. you could just make up your own stand and leg set from wood without purchasing the legs from Bushton..

Hawk makes benchtop legs.. They are just short legs to use on a benchtop.. but I have no idea how the cost is.. and if you're going to do that you could just make short wood legs or build your own stand and make it work..

I don't know if this helps you at all or not.. Meaning you was hoping to get one in store? This one is priced right anyway.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-Scroll-Saw-1-3-Amp-20-In-Cast-Iron-Table-Blade-Tensioning-Lever/264413632691?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 AND For those that rather shop Amazon.. https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Power-40-694-Variable-Scroll/dp/B00IK8DIU8?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAIENXGIYD2VI6D6IA&tag=axiontool-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00IK8DIU8

The Hawk was on Facebook marketplace.. guy ordered it back in 1998 and then had a stroke and could no longer saw.. The saw sat in a climate controlled shop from 1998 - when I bought it in 2017.. The Excalibur was on craigslist and the young man that sold it to me won it in a raffle from his work Christmas party.. He had no interest in it.. Both saws was still sealed in the box.. The Hawk was about 15 miles away but the Excalibur was out of state.. however the guy with the Excalibur was right near the state line and had family here.. so we met half way.. which was about 40 miles..

I've tried that method now for several years.. I had a DeWalt.. then with it getting worn and wanting a higher end saw I thought I'd buy either another main saw and use the DW as a back-up or buy a back-up for the DW.. Bought the first Hawk 220vS.. figured $100 I'd at least get a feel for the Hawk saws.. Then i liked it so well that when I seen a deal on the still boxed 1998 226 Hawk ultra for $400 well I had to go get it.. with intentions of selling the older Hawk or the DW.. Then I found a still in box Excalibur for $350.. bought it with intention of selling the DW.. Somehow I talked myself into a brand new Hawk with intentions of selling all the saws but the Hawk Ultra.. out of all that mess.. I only sold the DW,.. I find I like all these saws for certain types of cutting.. I still may sell that older Hawk 220VS before winter..

Based on the local stores in my area and being I had this for several years tells me that it wasn't purchased online.. My wife isn't too computer savvy ( at least back then ).. Anyway I searched online all over the place at the local stores etc. to see if I could find a stool like mine.. I think this one from Harbor Freight is about the same thing as I have but the material of the covering looks more like a plastic on the HF one than what mine has.. https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-shop-stool-with-backrest-64499.html

That is similar to mine.. I used it with all the saws I've owned.. with good results just modify blocks of wood heights to use the foot switch.. My stool was bought as a Christmas gift years ago so I have no idea where it came from, price, or even brand.. Could take a look and see if there is a tag on it somewhere.. This one you show looks more comfy mine has very little padding and over the years with several hours of sitting in it.. probably broke down much of the padding too..

Make it a lazy susan style then just spin to the press you need, LOL

Ray, this topic is from 2016.. He may still want the pattern though..

Sounds like a heck of a deal.. I kinda miss my old DeWalt.. sold it to my son's friend and he used the crap out of it for about a week or two.. Now he's too busy chasing girls and messing with cars, LOL.. Might see if i could buy it back...LOL