kmmcrafts

Just a thought... but if its breaking only on one end and before you even start sawing.. maybe try flipping the blade upside down.. this could rule out if it's the clamp or the blade.. I suppose you could even saw this way but it would be backwards LOL... I would do it in some scrap wood if you are going to try to saw with the blade in upside down, LOL Kevin

The best clear finish to use is actually oil base ( latex will work as well but oil base is best ) outside house paint with no pigment added.. The store clerks will look at you in a very strange way when you ask for paint with no color added.. It will look milky / white.. but it will dry clear.. be sure to apply very lightly otherwise it will come out sort of milky haze clear. LOL .. Like others have said.. use a wood that will hold up well to outside elements will help tremendously..

That helped me.. I right clicked and learned that it was set to open with some other program I never heard of.. set it to open with windows live or something like that and now I am able to open / print again. Thank you, Kevin

Okay this isn't really scroll saw related but image related.. Running Windows 10 ( free upgrade version from windows 7 ) kids have been using my laptop to do their homework projects the last few days.. I get back on my computer and now I am unable to open any pictures from my files or my external hard drive etc.. PDF files open fine.. I just now saved a new pattern from here to my laptop and that also doesn't open.. so it's not something to do with the old files.. I get a error message that says "class not registered" Anyone have any ideas what they did? was working fine until yesterday.. I had tried to reboot, changed my default browser back to edge from firefox etc.. Not real computer savvy but usually can figure these things out.. just frustrated with this one because I have some patterns to print and I cannot open the patterns up.. Grrr Thanks to anyone that might be able to help me fix this.. Kevin

Glad you was able to get it running quiet and smooth.. I take my saw apart every year during the slower periods to tune it and re-grease it up.. I use it a lot.. and once a year might be a little over kill.. but it is the only saw I have for now.. and I can't afford to have it down during peek selling time.. so I find it easier to just tune it and maintain it during one of the slower months.. though I am getting busy enough that slow months are getting harder to get, LOL One day very soon I am going to splurge and get the EX-21 I have been drooling over for several years, LOL Or maybe grab a used DeWalt deal I might run across on craigslist etc.

I bought a cheap arbor press from Harbor Freight for like $40... But honestly they press in really easy and I think if you was careful they could be done just on a bench vise...

I would have to hear it and see it run.. but I would bet it is the tension rod.. That saw is different from a DeWalt but still basic design.. I have rebuilt my DeWalt with new bearings etc only after a couple years.. so it also could be the bearings and sleeve for the eccentric.. They use a cheap grease and very sparingly.. First time i did it I only cleaned up the bearings and re- greased them with a high quality synthetic grease.. The issue was they was already worn and needed replaced...however that helped a great deal until I could order the new bearings and wait until a slow down in sales to be able to take it back apart and press out the old and press in the new bearings.. On another note... I found that the worst ware and tare on my saw seems to be the lower arm bearing at the front of the saw.. should have been designed with sealed bearings because all that sawdust falls down into these bearings.. I take it apart once a year and clean up these and re lube it.. Kevin

Thanks for the tips.. I did do numbers 1-3.. but the only good section of wood I had wasn't the straightest grained.. Maybe that was the issue..

The edge grained ones I did started out at 1-3/4" thick.. by the time I got them to a nice flat board they are down to about 7/8 inch thich, LOL The one I just did is a normal face grained boards that I ripped to size and glued the edges together.. made from the walnut and oak.. and it started out at about a 1-1/4 inch and I have it down to about 3/4" now.. The finish I used was by watco butcher block oil.. Love the finish this makes, and the water when washing just beads up and runs right off it. I put on two fairly wet coats ( sanding with 400grit in between coats ) then a nice light coat.. been using it since July and getting washed many times a day (some days). It is starting to get some cut marks on it and I plan to sand it down in the next few days for a recoating..

Not really scroll saw related but is a woodworking item.. Back in the summer I made a cutting board.. came out real nice and the wife loved it.. so she wanted me to make a couple for Christmas gifts. I made some edge grained ones this time one of these boards had warped right as soon as I run it through the planner it comes out wobbly on diagonal corners but the other opposite corners are nice and flat.. both sides this way.. I finally just let it set aside for a couple months and then did another clean up through the planner and seems to be fine.. Now I just made another but with the normal flat grain from walnut and red oak.. same issue .. How do they make these things so they don't do this?? Any tips? I don't mind having to give it another try but I don't have months to wait for the board to do whatever it is doing over time.. LOL I am guessing I shouldn't have used red oak for one thing.. that wood you can almost watch it warp after planning it nice and flat, LOL Anyway... Looking for tips on making some cutting boards instead of flat bowls, LOL Kevin

Okay thanks for the replies.. Now my next question.... Someone mentioned a "Good Glue" is stronger than screws or nails... So... what do you consider a good glue? or what is the glue of choice that you all use? I believe I used Tite Bond II.. Now I have had just one issue.. minor but non the less.. When gluing. I may on a couple occasions had the clock move from the base which got some glue on the top of the base.. I exclusively use beeswax and mineral oil mixture for my finishes and the areas that got the glue on them stood out like a sore thumb.. I hand sanded the glue off and it turned out fine.. however I do not like to re-sand a nice sanded smooth piece.. and getting up next the the joined pieces was somewhat difficult. What is your solution for this? Maybe special type of glues or, be more careful LOL.. After doing a few like this I have become more careful and had decent results.. but I sort of feel as though I am not getting enough glue on there to adhere good.. though they do seem good and solid..

Over the last couple years I have been making and selling quite a few desk clocks.. I have always used countersunk screws in the base to attach to the clock portion.. Recently I did a pattern that due to detail of the clock there was no place to put screws in that wouldn't pop through into the design. I glued the thing up with I think titebond II glue.. I somewhat liked the ease of just gluing it rather than setting up my drill press 2 times just to make the counter sunk screw holes.. ( they probably have special counter sinking bits don't they? ) Anyway talking long term... which is more durable and stronger? I was never a big fan of gluing stuff.. but i have to say I was quite surprised how solid it felt.. got me to thinking that maybe the glue is stronger than the screws.. Considering I normally make my clocks out of 1/2" stock drill a hole in the center on each end and putting screws in it... it is only attached at two points.. unlike the glue attaching it the full length.. Anyway what are your thoughts on either? Kevin

The blade clamps are exactly what steers me away from Hawk and Hegner.. I know you can buy upgraded clamps.. Guess this is a peev of mine... but if I spend that kind of money on a saw.. it should come with the upgrades.. JMO.. Really like the new Hawks with all the adjustments that can be made.. Even heard the older saws can be upgraded with the newer style arms so they can be adjusted and fine tuned as well.. Since I do mostly fret work.. I am looking to upgrade from my DeWalt to a EX in the near future.. unless I find an awesome deal on a older Hawk that I can't refuse.. LOL Kevin

Thank you for the information so far.. I am glad I had not installed it yet.. as most times I use the express install and most likely would have on this one.. Guess I should stop doing those express installs to see what exactly I am installing.. Kevin

It may have already downloaded... I didn't know mine had downloaded until I clicked on the windows icon down in my toolbar.. when I did that it said it was ready to be installed and I could schedule a time to do so or just do it manually.. I been waiting to see how people are liking it.. So far I have heard good things about it..

Anyone done the free upgrade from windows 7 to the new windows 10? I was wondering if it was going to effect any of the pattern making programs.. mainly I use Corel Draw III and gimp.. I have the update downloaded and all but have yet to install it due to worries about my programs.. Kevin

If I sold at a craft fair I wouldn't worry much about it.. but since I sell online.. well that is a different story....

I keep seeing people on sites like eBay and etsy that sell portraits of famous people. I read a while back on a site I sell on ( Artfire ) that these portraits are copy written.. They was saying any image that resembles a famous person is actually illegal other than if you make a cartoon type out of them.. What are your thoughts on this? I have a couple portraits I made a long time ago of Tim McGraw I made for a friend.. I stack cut them ( not sure who the pattern designer was ) and I would like to offer them for sale.. not to keep making them but to get the ones I have out of my way.. hate to just toss them out.. but also not wanting any trouble either, LOL Anyone selling this style portraits of famous people? I may just throw them in my brush burn pile for my next bon fire.. just hate to if I could legally sell them..been kicking them from storage bin to storage bin for 5 years now.. time to do something with them. I did two different styles and stack cut 3 of each so I would be tossing out 5 portraits, LOL Kevin

I ordered one from Grizzly just a few weeks ago..I was very satisfied with my purchase. I can not remember now how long it took but it was quite a bit faster than I had expected..I think I ordered late (11:30 PM ) on a Friday night and Monday was a Holiday and my saw came like on Thursday or Friday..I know it was only like a week to wait..They was good about sending shipping/tracking info so I could prepare to be at home the day it was to come.. If your thinking about getting a Dewalt..I think Grizzly is the best place to get it as they are great to deal with and ship out fast..Not to mention the cheapest price around.. Kevin

Hello Everyone, Thank you for the nice welcome, grampa, You are probably right about my father looking over my shoulder as I saw. Travis, I will have to look at the Pattern making class's, I am sure I could use it, LOL Dan, I have been around wood all my life. My oldest brother owns a saw mill business for at least 30 years as I used to stack slab wood ( fire wood ) for him when I was a kid. As I got older I used to sort lumber and stack the lumber off the mill, build skids ext. His father-in-law owned a saw mill business too.That was his first employment out of high school until he got his own mill that is..Though its not really like wood working but non- the less..I been around wood all my life.. Thanks again for the welcome Kevin

Just joined up the other day and been snooping around. Thought I had better at least say Hi, LOL I have been scroll sawing for about two years now. My father used to scroll saw after he had retired, and he wore out a old Delta 2 speed saw model 40-560. I asked him one day if I could borrow his old saw as he had bought a new Vari speed Delta. He let me take it and I brought it home and set it on the bench in the barn where it sat for about 5 years, LOL Finally one day I was bored and thought I would give it a try. Been hooked ever since. I tried rebuilding his old saw but ended up getting a reconditioned Dremel 1800..Been using it up until two days ago as I had just ordered a new Dewalt from Grizzly..Wow what a difference..I have done some ( very little ) pattern making and am still practicing that part of the hobby.. A few of my hobby's include restoring old John Deere, Wheel Horse and Simplicity lawn and garden tractors, camping and gardening..I have been a stay at home dad for 3 kids now for 11 years. Now ready to enter the work force and not much for jobs, LOL Wife likes me home so I am considering doing craft shows ext. Have my first show to do this summer in August at a Wheel horse garden tractor show..Like to see some more garden tractor type patterns so I could have some items to sell that is somewhat related to where my first sale will be.. Thanks for letting me join this fine site. Kevin PS. My father passed about 3 years after I had borrowed the saw so he never got to see any of my work..He also never had the chance to be on the internet to see all the web sites and patterns ext. He sure would love it if he had been around for these sort of things. Only patterns he got to do was from the magazines..