kmmcrafts

Just come in from a stack cut of three 1/8 BB ply wildlife in a leaf pattern from Sheila Landry.. Was gluing the backers (1/4 Walnut ply ) on and first one went real nice.. look great.. second one dang it.. applied the glue to the wrong side of the cutout.. made double sure on the third one.. Hope I can save it by sanding the glue off.. I wiped as much as I could off but most of it was really tacky and soaked into the wood pretty good by the time I figured out what was going on.. I suppose I could cut another backer that would be backwards to match and glue one up backwards from the others just to salvage the piece.. LOL Not the first time I done this... but the first time I caught it just as a small drop of glue got on it and was able to wipe it off.. Kevin

As much as I've read about Seyco and how they always pre-set-up the Excalibur saws for each and every customer.. or at least that is how i always read / understood it.. I am really thrown off coarse that they are sending these saws out un-assembled.. or at least not partly assembled and tested.. I really had wondered how this was all going to pan out with these saws.. considering ( in my opinion ) they ( Seyco ) really rushed to get these saw out there and in the market.. I am in no way trying to talk bad or degrade the saw or the Seyco company.. But I sort of felt from the beginning when i heard about the new saw.. they seemed to be rushing to get the saw on the market before the new named EX-s become available to the USA... With the reputation that Seyco has I am sure they will get the new saw's bugs and flaws taken care of.. and be sure all their customers are satisfied with their purchase. Hopefully this is just an isolated case.. and the others will go together as smooth as silk. Kevin

Not sure if you have a Menards store nearby but my local Menards has the numbered drill bits. I believe they come in a 2 pack if I remember correctly.. I typically buy them from Mikes Workshop but from time to time I loose or break them.. then forget to order some more. Nice to have them locally if I am in desperate need.. Kevin

Probably already gone I didn't realize it had been on here for 20 some odd days.. I'm going to pass on it.. I see these all the time in my area for around this price range.. https://nmi.craigslist.org/tls/6105115741.html

Sounds like a deal to me I also found a really nice 22" hegner newer one too.. for $550.. but its a 2-3 hour drive too so I haven't even messaged the person yet..

Thank you all for your input on the saw sizes.. when I get ready to purchase my new saw.. I will take it all into consideration..

Very nice work!!!

I am assuming when you say the small saws end up as boat anchors.. you're referring to entree level saws? because I think a Hawk 216 is as well built as a 220 or 226.. or for that matter a 14" Hegner is as well built as a 18" or 22".. I am not talking about entree level saws that one would go to the box stores and purchase.. I've been there done that..

Yeah I know that.. I figured since the topic was saw sizes everyone would know what I meant.

I don't see why a average hobbyist would need more then one saw.. I however do this full time for a living for the past 2.5 years.. Had I thought back in the day when I got my DeWalt that I would be doing more than the average hobbyist I would have opted for a better high end saw.. I've rebuilt ( new bearings and sleeves etc ) my DeWalt 2 times now and it's ready for the third time.. I'm at a point I need a "New" saw... ( have picked up some used and worn saws too ie 30 year old Hawk ).. and quit wasting production time fixing these old saws..with band-aides.. I would keep one of my current saws and sell one off for a new saw.. I have a 20" saw now.. I don't need to fork out over a grand for a saw that a smaller lower cost saw would do the job just fine.. But.. the smaller sized saws aren't really in demand obviously so companies have dropped the smaller sized saws.. Just thinking of how.. back in the day.. Hawk and many of the other companies used to offer a lower priced smaller saw.. and wishing they still did.. a single speed hegner isn't of any use to me as I use the variable speed quite a lot.. this leaves me stuck forking out a lot of cash for a saw that is really just overkill for my needs.. I brought this topic up to sort of see.. how many really do use the full throat capacity of the saws they own and how often that might be.. and not just the type that say well I don't "Need" a 20 inch saw but if I have the money I'll buy it just in case..I find a use later on for it.. That is ok too.. not bashing any saw sizes, brands or owners.. just seeing how many really do use the full capacity of their saws..

I must be in the minority here.. but because I am a experienced sawer and have been sawing since 2005.. and have only needed the 20" saw throat a handful of times.. and even then i really didn't "NEED" it as I really could have skipped making those projects.. I guess the point I was trying to make was... why pay ( Excalibur for instance ) $300 more for a EX-21 when a Ex-16 will do most anything you would ever need.. But this is just my case.. and I was just trying to feel out how many sawers really use the full throat capacity of their saws..as I was trying to see why.. there aren't that many smaller high end saws on the market.. Hawk used to make a 16" but Bushton discontinued it.. I would be all over a new BM 16" saw with a slightly lower price.. but when looking at my needs vrs. price points.. The highest end saw that is VS and user friendly for fret work seems to be the EX-16.. and now that saw isn't even available anymore except in Canada.. so now we have only low end saws that are a 16" throat or a Hegner that isn't VS.. I will be saw shopping in the future and I already have a 20" DeWalt and a Hawk.. Probably going to be a new BM-20 Hawk.. but that 16" new name Excalibur from Canada and half the cost is really grabbing my attention.. too bad Hawk or some of the others didn't have a lower price option on a high end saw for those that really don't need it.. guess I seem to be the only one that doesn't need it though.. and if I did I will be keeping one of the two 20" saws I currently have.. As for the shop space.. I suppose you are all right about the footprint in the shop no really changing because most the saw stands are the same stand that will accommodate the larger saws..

Why modify a saw and probably void the warranty? Why not just take some pliers and bend the tips of the blades so you can cut from the side rather than from front to back if you need more throat space? Something I have done in the past for certain projects.. Just a thought..

Are you sure about that? When i was looking at those on some web site they was $999 I believe.. and now days with so many online sales.. most web sites now automatically change the currency to the location of the person shopping..

Hope everyone is having a great Mothers Day weekend.. After looking through many messages on here.. and seeing discussions about the new Seyco saw and whatnot.. I kind of wondered how many of the fellow scrollers really use the full throat capacity of the saw and what size saw is it that you do use.. I bring this up because it seems the 20" range saws seem to be what most have... Maybe due to being the price for anything larger than that simply because anything larger than that gets you into the high end saws such as the Hawk and Hegners.. not sure if there is any other saws that have a larger than 20 - 22 inch throat.. I have a 20" Dewalt and the 20" Hawk 220VS... rarely do I cut anything that needs a larger throat.. in fact I think there are only 2 items I have cut that needed that much and then really didn't if i had used spirals.. Those items were a wall guitar clock ( Steve Good pattern ) and some of the themed wall crosses from Sue Mey.. I typically cut ornaments, small desk clocks, and a few signs.. Be nice if some of the companies would make a smaller lower cost saw.. as I am guessing that many of you probably like me and could fairly easy get by with a 16" saw.. If... Hawk made a new 16" saw.. I most likely would be all over it.. believe hegner does... however they are single speed and no quick release tension at the front of the saw.. only other option that I know of is the EX-16 which is no longer made or sold in the USA anyway.. Anyway.. just thought I would see what everyone else's thought on the smaller saws.. I have seen some awesome deals lately on used Hawk 226's.. but I don't really need that large a saw and why hog up my shop space with a huge saw that I don't really need? If you was in the market for a new saw and money not a big issue.. do you buy the biggest saw.. or buy what will suit your needs and spend the extra money on wood or other tools.. I mean in my opinion a really large saw to most is just wasted money and shop space.. But then.. that is just my opinion since I rarely cut anything large enough that a 14 -16 inch saw would cut.. Kevin

One thing to consider when you say " you hear of many more problems with a DeWalt " .... Dewalts are a entry / mid level saw.. so I would have to say.. there are probably 2 - 3 times or more of those saws out there being used as opposed to the higher end saws.. so with more of them being used I suppose you'd hear more about any issues one might have. For what it's worth.. I am not trying to degrade any of the brands I had mentioned.. I do fretwork the most as well and find that my Hawk is just as easy as my DeWalt.. once I gave it some time to learn the ins and outs of the Hawk.. I will say that I don't think my Hawk is as smooth running through all the speed ranges as my DeWalt.. I've had my DeWalt since 2009.. run it about 30+ hours a week stack cutting ornaments cutting 3 - 6 at a time.. have rebuilt ( bearings & sleeves ) 2 times and ready for it again.. I don't have the money for a Hawk either.. nor do i have the money for a Seyco.. and I don't need the larger throat size.. If i were to get a saw.. I probably would buy the new named EX-16 equivalent saw.. Guess I am getting this thread off topic.. My reply above was more geared to the person that has the money saved to buy another new Hawk.. if they are used to the way a Hawk runs and have the money for another.. other than the shipping cost.. I think if it was me.. I'd still hold out for the Hawk.. simply because it's what they been used to and saved for a new one.. They are very well made..as is the other saws mentioned.. while I don't think the others are designed to do production type cutting such as I do.. On a side note: I'd like to have a large line-up of all the saws currently on the market.. and everyone gets a week with each one.. then decide what saw is best for their needs.. as I said.. all the saws are well built.. from the DeWalts on up.. for their intended use...but not all those saws fit the needs / wants of every scroll sawer.. Carry on with the Seyco discussion Kevin

Something to consider with a saw that is priced out so close to a Hawk.. and a couple reasons why I sort of feel as though the Hawk is really more bang for your buck.. First off is I think the quality of the Hawk is better than that of a EX's Not sure about the new seyco saw.. but I know the EX's have the same design as a DeWalt as for the open needle bearings.. Hawk uses sealed ball bearings.. Most any saw I have seen... has cast or stamped steel parts... I think most all the parts in a Hawk are machined by a machine shop.. should either of these companies go out of business.. it's be a lot easier to find a machine shop to make the parts you may end up needing than someone to cast a part without a mold.. or stamp out a piece of steel.. I sort of think that a Hawk would probably out last most of us with good care and maintenance.. Don't get me wrong.. I like EX's too.. and think the new Seyco saw is a nice saw.. but honestly think the Hawks will be around longer than us.. and not sure I can say the same on a EX or Seyco saw.. Plus buying a USA made saw keeps Americans to work.. Kevin

Great idea.. I am sure I will forget this when / if I make puzzles though.. LOL Also could do this to stick to the bottom of certain items or backs of portraits etc to mark / brand your products.. if you use clear coats you could probably spray right over it to be sure it stays on too.. got those little wheels rollin round in my head now.. LOL Kevin

I did a search for Hawks in your area on craiglist.. and if the one I seen is the one you're speaking of.. I'd think it would be worth the money providing that it is as good as it looks.. Appears to have the extras with it... ie foot switch, light, and dust cover for the machine.. While I got a great deal on mine at $100 by the time I made a few upgrades and minor repairs.. etc.. I now am pushing that $300 mark.. While as it turns out many of the items I purchased for it wasn't needed as it was user error LOL.. live and learn though. Anyway.. I love the saw now and that is what really matters... still much cheaper than a new one at $1200 + 150 shipping. On a side note.. now I am looking at a 226VS

I second that about people would be stripping out the clamp.. Steve also posted a thing awhile back about how he had trouble with one of the clamps holding his blade.. only to find that it had been tightened enough to bend the clamp open a little wider and you could clearly see in the video where the gap space where the blade fits in was much wider than the one on the other clamp.. You shouldn't have to tighten the screws that tight.. if you need it that tight you have a different problem going on like oily blades etc.. When you start having blade slippage.. you should clean up the clamps etc rather than reef down on the thumb screw.. JMO.. I did notice that screw in the review of the saw and thought it was a nice screw.. that said though.. maybe I am oddball of the group that like those round screws.. I thought I might like the round one better so I bought some for my DeWalt.. and i hated the round ones.. I like the standard one that it came with much better.. Just personal preference I guess.. Kevin

Thankfully when that does occur I usually have all the pieces to glue it back together.. however I have had a time or two where the piece fell through the hole in my say table and onto the floor with a milion other small pieces, LOL.. I learned to keep my floor clean now.. I typically clean up the floor everytime I change a blade or start / finish a project.. now most times I am able to find the piece I need..

I typically do not like to offer blade advice as far as what size for x size wood ect.. because I find that my preference changes from one saw to the next.. I can run a #3 on my DeWalt because it has the aggressive cutting with forward motion.. but on my Hawk I might use a #5 or larger.. Also like someone else said.. it really depends on the work at hand.. If anything.. I suggest buying some sample packs of different style blades and see what works best for you.. Blade charts are at best a starting point.. but even so.. I find that I hardly ever use the suggested blade.. I like cutting fast.. so I typically use a more aggressive blade that what is suggested.. so that goes back to my suggestion.. just fork out some cash and buy some sample packs and make some sawdust.. and see what works for you.. Kevin

I always wondered about those color stains.. I've heard of using food coloring to color wood with as well.. Kevin

Thank you all for the tips / suggestions.. For my current project I decided I was just going to do it the way I have always done it.. with the contrasting wood... Also I see someone mentioned framed items they use felt etc.. My father used to use heavy paper and would paint the paper background with a airbrush for a sunset scenery effect ect... was really kind of cool.. For the most part.. I use the foam sheets ( similar to the felt ) but its smooth and is easier to clean the dust out later.. I find that felt will almost attract dust to it and is a pain in the you know what to clean it.. Kevin

I think if this happen to me.. I be more worried about damage to my scroll saw motor or circuit board than the vac..If you're plugging this into the same circuit.. I think if I would going to do something like this.. I'd buy a separate foot switch for the vac. and plug it into a separate outlet / circuit. this I would mount a piece of flat metal to each of the peddles of the foot switch.. this way you only stepping on one foot switch but actually turning on two with them linked together.. A foot switch is cheaper than a vac every few months.. JMO Kevin

I'm not a very big fan of stained projects.. so most anything that I put a backer on I just use a contrasting wood and use mostly BB ply or oak ply and then use a walnut ply backer.. thinking of doing something different and maybe just using the BB ply for a backer that would be painted but was wondering a couple things.. 1) what type of paint do you all use? aerosol spray paint can or brush it on? 2) what glue for gluing the backer to the cutout that will stick good with the paint and hopefully dry clear in case you get some glue in a visible area? 3) How do you finish the piece? I typically dip most my projects in Danish oil.. If I do that before gluing the backer will the glue still stick considering the glue is going onto two finished pieces.. can one glue and then dip into Danish oil or would the Danish oil damage the painted surface.. Maybe use a spray poly.. not a big fan of that either on fretwork type stuff as it's difficult to get the clear onto the frets evenly.. Anyway, just wondering how you all do this.. I've done a few projects with paint several years ago and just wasn't real pleased with my final results.. yet I see many nice pieces you all post with painted backers.. Thanks, Kevin