kmmcrafts

Well not sure how this all works in your area.. but around here.. companies don't like every Tom, Harry, and Joe snooping around their property to get pallets.. My brother has a sawmill business since the 1970's and he makes new pallets.. my neighbor has a used pallet business.. and a place my son works at has pallets all over the place and are always telling my son or anyone that works there that if they know someone that wants the pallets to have them come get em... so I told the neighbor.. he stopped in and they said no can do.. they are spoken for... yet the pallets still set there.. Talking with the neighbor guy about it and he claimed that many business's are like that.. and he speculates that it's because they just don't want people around on their property getting hurt or stealing stuff. Even though he is a legit business with a licence etc.. he still has a hard time with many places... yet they can't seem to find anyone to take them either.. just like the place my son works at.. There are a couple big dog business's that will go around and get them.. but.. they won't come get them unless they have a full big truck load so they just keep piling them up.. which in my book is probably just as much a safety hazard are having a smaller business guy come in to get them.. Now with this whole Home Depot thing.. maybe nobody will get a used pallet unless it's at Home Depot, LOL Personally I think companies should be required to recycle them anyway.. there is so much wasted lumber with pallets when they just crush them up and put them in the dumpsters. etc.. like a place I used to work at always did.. I could see maybe old busted up ones but really just toss a like new pallet out.. then the companies are always talking about going green... cutting cost etc etc.. but they throw these out.. Then again.. probably cost too much to deal with returning them or disposing of them.. so just throw them out.. just seems like a big waste..

I think this was about 3-4 years ago when the new BM series came out.. The video on youtube is 3 years old anyway.. so guessing right around that time..

Really depends on what it is that I am finishing.. Portraits, I use spray polyurethane satin or semi gross spray.. I like the water based stuff as it dries fast.. typically sand between coats then apply another and depending sometimes 2-4 coats.. For most anything else I make with plywood.. or most any other thing... I make my own finish from beeswax and mineral oil. I apply with those metal handled acid brushes and let it set for a few hours.. then I take my wife's hair dryer ( don't tell her LOL ) and on high heat setting I melt the wax down into all the little nooks and crannies and then wipe and blow with air hose out off the excess wipe it all off.. awesome non-toxic finish without strong smells.. makes it easier for my online selling because I can literally ship it out the same day I finish it. If time isn't an issue for the smells etc and I'm feeling too lazy to do the brushing etc of the beeswax mineral oil mix stated above.. then i will use Natural color Danish oil and just pour it into a foil baking pan dip the projects and lay them out on a board covered with paper towels to drip dry..

Elmers actually has a few different types of the spray adhesive... well two that I know of.. The first one my wife purchased wasn't too bad but it was only in a 4oz can.. I don't recall what it was called now.. nor do I know what the one I bought is called.. While the first can wasn't nearly as good as the 3M 77 it was tolerable.. also was over $4 for that tiny little can.. When I went back to get more I seen two types.. one was around $8 and one was $6.. I got the $6 can thinking it was the same as what I had.. while I don't think the $8 can would be worth it because you have to spray it on quite heavy to make it work.. the 3M stuff is sooo sticky that just a quick light spray will do good.. I get more issues of the nozzle clogging more than anything with the 3M 77.. and having sticky fingers for a day or so... but now I seen where someone said to soak it in mineral spirits.. I tried soaking in lacquer thinner for a day and it didn't touch it.. so I might try the mineral spirits..

That is a lot older than 2005.. that has the old barrel style clamp.. I believe this is out of the 1990's.. I have a 1993 with this style clamp.. my 1998 has a newer style clamp than this.. so this is a oldie..

These are the ones I get.. He also does sell in smaller amounts.. but the larger bulk amounts have a better deal... plus then I only have to order about twice a year.. Some are stickier than others.. as far as sticking to my mail packages.. and lift off when attached to boxes or poly mailers.. I just cover with tape on each end... as for sticking to the blue tape, packing tape, or shelf liner and sawing.. have not had any issues whatsoever by themselves.. without covering with tape.. only had one order of them that wasn't sticking well to the packages.. all the others have been real sticky.. not sure if it was a different brand or a somewhat bad batch.. either way they worked great for patterns.. just no so great for mailing packages.. I've ordered these a couple times a year for the last 3-4 years.. only the one batch that wasn't real sticky.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/280984685548?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I tried that with the Elmers spray and I just had a dry piece of paper about 15 minutes later.. maybe I could have wet it to be sticky again.. I don't know.. I ended up spraying it again.. It does work to let it get sticky but there seems to be a real fine line between it getting sticky and too wet or too dry.. needs to be sprayed very evenly otherwise you get it stuck good in some spots and not at all in other areas..

It's more so just easier to peel back off the wood once your done cutting.. The tape is typically 2" wide strips that when peeling off you end up picking at for 5-10 minutes to get it all off.. and having several little pieces sticking to your fingers and everything, LOL .. The shelf liner typically peels right off most times in one big piece.. Probably if you was real good and careful you could almost pick it off and put it on another board for another cut.. LOL

That elmers stuff sucks.. I had been using the 3M77 right along.. I ran out and the wife happen to be in town so I asked her to pick up a can.. well she couldn't find the 3M and said they have a elmers.. I'd read of others using the elmers stuff so i said get it.. I really have to soak the pattern down good and then let it get slightly tacky before it will work.. then it is still not always working.. I rarely use spray glues though as I hate the mess of the over spray etc.. I use full sheet shipping label paper when my patterns small enough to be printed on a standard 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper.. and since I sell online I need shipping labels so I also use them for that too.. I have a supplier on eBay where I buy 1000 sheets at a time.. very nice to just print-peel-and-stick... no sticky fingers trying to pick up the sprayed pattern etc etc.. Wish they made a 11 x 17 adhesive paper.. then I wouldn't have any use for those sprays..

That's Awesome!! I think you made a smart choice.. nothing against the Hegner saws.. I just think you get a much more user friendly saw with the Hawk.. Both are well made saws.. I hope to get this same saw in the next year or so.. Let us all know your thoughts on it once it arrives...

You are right... I hadn't even thought about the lower clamp on the new ones being easier accessible. That would make a big difference.

Same saw as the one I just bought, two years newer.. I bet mine was used less though since mine had never been taken out of the original box.. I didn't even realize it had the two positions for the lower blade until i got it home and put it together.. I gave $400 for mine but my picture is probably on the post office wall for theft, LOL The price of this is pretty decent.. especially if it really is a lightly used one..

I have a 1993 Hawk 220VS and there is no adjustment for the blade movement on that old of one.. I also just picked up a 1998 Hawk 226 Ultra.. That saw doesn't have the variable adjustment but it does have two positions for the lower blade clamp so it is adjustable but not really a way to completely fine tune it.. I don't think Hawk made the variable adjustable one until the BM series which are quite new.. I am pretty sure Rolf's saw is just the two positions like mine is.. but I think the 2005 and later saws have the ability to top or bottom feed.. Hope that clears it up some..

The problem with doing that is he strictly cuts puzzles.. and a more aggressive blade typically means a wider kurf. and a wider kurf makes a sloppy puzzle..

After having one that adjust.. I wouldn't buy a saw that didn't adjust.. I also do a wide variety of projects.. and cutting thicker stock with a saw that is not very aggressive is like driving on the expressway at 10mph LOL... especially after cutting on an aggressive Dewalt saw for the last 10 years..

What I mean is.. blade movement from front to back.. the more movement front to back the more aggressive the saw will cut or faster cutting.. Not sure if the Hegners have any type of adjustment for this.. Ex's, Newer Hawks, Jets, and Seyco saws have this feature.. If you go to the Hawks web site they mention the adjustment in their video and show how to do it.. very simple.. not sure how it's done on the other saws.. Kevin

If I were you.. I'd probably piece together the DeWalts as long as you can and opt to look for a used Hegner or Hawk.. You seem to have your mind made up on the Hegner so I guess maybe Hawk is out of the question now? or at least give one a good couple hour test run.. Like I said in the other post.. being able to adjust the aggressiveness of the cut is worth it's weight in gold when you get a saw that cuts a lot slower and cannot adjust the aggressiveness.. One thing that you can help compensate is using larger blades to help cut faster.. Not sure if the blade can be adjusted on the Hegners.. but if not.. the type of work you do is typically thicker wood.. and in order to keep the puzzles tight.. you probably don't want to go to a larger blade.. so the only option is being able to adjust the blade front to back for a more aggressive cut. Maybe cutting fast is not a concern of yours.. but for me.. time is money and if I could cut 1 or two more puzzle per day.. that time and money ads up over a years time.. I plan to own or at least try out a Hegner one day.. Maybe I would like one better than my Hawks..

FD blades was always my go to blade until I tried the pegas MG.. Also like olsens PGT blades.. just wish olsen would offer a size smaller than that of the #5..

Hmm interesting... I don't recall your Hamsa box or even know what that is... BUT... I do know what a pole dancer is

I don't know much about the Hegners.. but.. I will say that it is quite an adjustment going from a DeWalt saw to a different saw.. and what I mean by this is.. I have been cutting on a DeWalt for about 10 -12 years.. took forever to get used to the Dewalt because of the aggressive fast cutting that the Dewalts are known for.. and many people don't like because they are too aggressive.. I bought a fairly lightly used Hawk 220VS last October for $100 and all I can say is.. it's an awesome saw.. but... it took a long time to get used to cutting on it because.. it's just not very aggressive cutting.. Love it for thin wood cutting because it's not so aggressive.. but for anything thicker than 1/2 + I hate the saw.. it seems so slow at cutting.. for one the older Hawks 220VS only have about 1500 strokes per min. speed as apposed to the DeWalts 1750.. If you are used to cutting fast.. you may not like some of the other saws.. unless they have an adjustable blade angle ( front to back ) so you can make it more aggressive cutting.. I liked everything about the Hawk 220VS other than the blade not being able to adjust the aggressiveness of the cut.. Three weeks ago I run up onto a Hawk 226 Ultra brand spankin new still boxed with tons of extras.. $400 love this machine as it has two positions for the blade adjustment for making it either aggressive or not aggressive cutting.. I use it in the aggressive position all the time and absolutely love this saw.. The brand new BM220 and the BM226 saws and an adjustable lower arm that you can variably adjust the aggressiveness of the cut.. Love to have one of those.. Anyway, I just wanted to give a heads up on my experience with using a different saw after using a dewalt all those years.. It's sort of like driving on the expressway at 70mph for 8 hours and then go into a city and drive 30mph.. that is how I felt after cutting for so many years on my Dewalt and then going to the Hawk.. I am sure other saws would be the same feeling unless you can adjust the blade to get the more aggressive cut.. Might be worth the drive to test one out before putting out all the money and being disappointed.. Just My Opinion I also do a lot of cutting and have taken my dewalt down for new bearings etc more times than I'd like to mention.. I have found though if you use a good quality synthetic grease you can get a lot more time on the bearings.. I typically do the front portion of the saw every year.. and the back every other year.. I find that since they didn't use sealed bearings that the fine sawdust drops right down onto the bearings at the front of the saw and dry up the grease.. these are the ones that I end up doing yearly.. now.. I will say.. I have really only replaced the bearings only once.. But I clean out the old bearings and re-grease every year.. and have been running the same bearings for 5 years now.. If you can maintain them good.. the bearings will last a long time.. it's just when the grease drys up and then it burns up the bearings and sleeves..

The best dust control system would be to suck it up and contain it.. rather than using blowers and fans to make it go air born.. that said.. it gets pretty complicated with scroll saws trying to have some sort of vacuum in your way.. I often thought about trying the scrollando or other homemade type dust collection for my saw.. maybe I will run some experiments this summer with it.. too bad the saws aren't built to have a built in dust vacuum rather than a dust blower.. Kevin

I have a stand about the same height as my saw.. have the box fan on the stand about 1.5 - 2 foot away.. I then aim my air blower somewhat toward the fan and back toward the back of the saw.. Works ok.. get a lot of dust on that filter.. but I still get quite a lot of airborn dust. I bought a filteration system that hangs from the ceiling last fall.. but been too busy to get it put up... hoping that will help too.. thought about one of the vac machines that hook to your scroll saw.. think it was called scrollando? seen one hooked up to a DeWalt.. not sure if it could work well with the Hawk or not.. Kevin

I don't think you will find many people that will know anything about it.. LOL Like I said earlier the worker where I bought it at thought I was a little off my rocker, LOL.. All it is is what they call Base Paint.. Base being un-mixed paint with out the color pigment added... I wish i could find the blog where I found this at.. but that was 4 years ago when I did my research.. The base paint looks white.. but actually dries clear.. Has to be exterior house paint as the exterior has UV, mildew, and bug protect-ant properties in it. Can be latex or oil base.. I used latex because that was the only one they had in small amounts on hand.. The blog I read mention either will work but oil base was better..

I was just searching for the web page where I learned of this.. but I cannot seem to find it very quick.. but anyway there is info out there online about doing this.. the one I found back when I did my project.. they showed a study and this guy painted some scraps of wood with several types of outdoor sealers etc.. and the house paint outlasted all of the other so called outdoor sealers.. If I remember correct the test was done in Florida.. Anyway, do some research on it... Also suggest you try it on a few scraps first.. because it can be a little tricky with getting the coats on thin so it will not clear hazy.. Was a tedious job for me as to the way I had fretwork to seal up etc.. To do over I'd probably try using my spray gun.. unless I had little to no fretwork..

Just regular house paint for wood sided houses.. you would want the plain kind without the primer added.. can be latex but oil base is supposed to be better.. I used latex because I didn't want to buy a 5 gallon pale of oil base for one sign.. as they was sold out of the smaller cans of oil base.. I still have my can and never used it but for one sign.. Anyone close enough could have it.. LOL Actually I did think about making router ed signs but still haven't done it because the demand for scroll work has kept me quite busy.. For what it's worth.. The sign I made was made from Red Oak with a Walnut Backer.. Been hanging outside now for I think 4 years.. looks same as it did when it was hung up.. Kevin