kmmcrafts

First off, Thank you for your service.. I don't know how any scroll sawers can afford to buy your lumber from any box store such as Lowes, Menards and Homedepot.. I'd be checking around for a local sawmill..

I guess I didn't realize the 788's had been around that long.. I started my sawing in 2006... but didn't get my Dewalt until 2009.

i don't know much history on the 788's.. anyone know when they first came out?

Not sure if anyone on here is close enough or would want to go.. They have this every year right around the first part of Sept. They have some good deals on lumber, plywood etc as well as tools.. always someone there demonstrating some sort of woodwork.. Here is a link if anyone might be interested. Wood Expo

Yeah, forgot to mention that in my last post.. That thing never got installed on my saw.. and is always the first thing I remove when I get a new used saw, LOL..

Awesome video.. I do have a question though... Do you sand these? I've never seen you mention sanding them.. Your other video showing your process I don't believe it mentioned anything about sanding the puzzles before or after cutting.. Just curious is all.. I cut out the free rescue pattern the other day.. was quite a fun cut.. I might have to start making these for my business, LOL.. Took me quite a lot longer to cut than what you did here.. Think I had over an hour but hard to say because I was tweaking and playing around with adjustments on my Hawk.. and it is slower than the DeWalt at cutting too.. I assume you use a #3 Mach Olsen blade? I was using a #3 but not sure if I had the FD or Pega blade in it.. using 3/4 poplar.. but most poplar I have cut was real easy too.. but this board was much more dense.. I think the cherry I typically cut is easier going..

Nice work!! Welcome to the village..

Well glad to see they have found the problem and will be helping you get is fixed.. At least changing the lower arm on these is quite straight forward.. not like the dewalt where you have to disassemble the whole saw to get to the link arms, LOL..

Thank you for the nice comments..,,

Very nice work.. not to mention he is making some extra cash too! I have put my kids to work a few times at the saw.. they don't seem to have much interest in it yet I guess.. just as I did.. my father scroll sawed.. and he tried to get me interested in it.. while I liked the things he made.. I was too busy building show cars and racing at the drag strip.. wasn't until I was 38 years old before i dug out dads old saw after he passed on.. sure do wish I'd have learned some of his tricks to the trade before he passed on but as a young boy.. my interest was cars, going fast, and cute girls...LOL

Only time I really raise a price on custom work is if it's a personalized item.. I can use the photos from this custom order and put them on my web site to offer another item as a made to order item.. this way i don't have to keep it in stock.. Some custom work I do charge extra for.. typically $10-15 for the design / art work for the pattern.. personalized work that cannot be sold to others I charge up front.. with no refunds..

Custom order from my web site last week .. Customer actually ordered a few clocks.. but this one was a custom design..

Very nice!!..

Maybe the type of cutting I do.. but I personally never found any improvement in using the packing tape for blade lubrication or cooling it from burning my projects.. I cut a lot of cherry which burns pretty easy too.. I no longer use clear tape.. just the plain ol shelve liner and the pattern.. I do use self adhesive shipping labels to print my patterns onto.. maybe that stuff is doing the same thing as the packing tape?

Some of the dollar tree stores do have it..but not all of them.. I have one store here that carry's it.. It's in a smaller roll.. and if memory serves me correct it's actually cheaper at Walmart.. .

Maybe just me and it'is hard to tell without actually being there and seeing / hearing it in person.. BUT... that blade at a certain SPM setting.. ( I think it was around 9? ) looked to me to be flexing which in my mind.. is a tension issue.. I had been having problems with my saw for quite some time.. and I honestly don't know what I did.. but I was playing around with the tension bolt etc at the back of the saw.. and this had went away.. while your vibration at the certain speeds is a lot like how mine is.. I know we don't have the exact same model saw.. as mine is a older 26" Ultra.. but the tension design part of it is still the same.. One other thing to note.. my blade wouldn't fit in the ( bottom feeding ) upper blade holder without raising it up a little.. as if the blade was too long. Whatever I did at the back of the saw.. made the blade fit perfectly.. and it also set me up with slightly more tension. which at first I thought was probably too much.. I was worried I might snap blades but gave it a go to see what happen.. well... I stopped snapping blades and the blade flexing went away too.. Seems like a lot more tension on the blade than what I always did on my DeWalt.. but I'm not going to loosen it if it's working now.. LOL Might not be the same issues with your saw. Had I bought my saw new.. I might have given up as well.. especially the amount of money one cost... they are a lot different than the DeWalt.. and I been using the DeWalt since 2009 until I got the first Hawk last oct. I just keep playing around with it.. tweeking things until I've had enough.. then use the DeWalt for a while.. been a frustrating at times but adventure for sure... I love it for cutting thin wood and stack cutting 4-5 1/8" BBply.. but not yet sold on using it for solid hardwoods yet.. though I haven't used it on hard woods since I've made this adjustment and more blade tension.. whatever it was I did, LOL... Anyway, to me.. the video makes it look like a tension issue.. May not be..just saying what I think I am seeing.

Seen a brand new EX-16 on ebay still boxed.. price is $550.. Not sure what a new one cost.. but the new King one is $599.. just my opinion... but I'd pay $50 more and have the option to return it.. or if nothing more.. for the warranty.. If they put that one on ebay down a bit more.. it could be an awesome deal..

I agree with Len... Get permission from the head of their legal department.. never trust an employee.. as they might just say " Oh there is no problem with it.. I work here and it's okay they don't care"

Sorry to hear about this with the second saw.. I thought all was good with this one.. Is this noise and vibration at all speeds? My saw does a Honorable loud noise and vibration at top speed.. ( sounds like something is hitting the connecting rod ) actually does it from around 7/8 of the way up and above.. then there is one spot on the lower end that vibrates pretty good but no noise... My old Hawk done the same thing but I loosened up all the bolts and did some adjustments and got it about as smooth as my DeWalt through all the speeds... just can't seem to do anything with my newer saw..other than cut at the lower speed just before it gets to that one area... Just wondering if my issues are the same as yours.. since I bought mine used.. but still new in the box.. who knows how many times that saw box was kicked around this guys shop over the last 20 years.. I keep following your post about this as maybe whatever it is with yours is the same issue with mine.. while not the same saw.. it still might be something for me to check.. It's usable and cuts square.. just can't cut in those couple speed ranges..

Do you think the same company makes the new seyco saw? and of coarse Seyco has their hands in the specs and quality... Think I would stick with high end saws such as Hawk or Hegner.. just don't see much added benefit to one of these over the much cheaper Dewalt.. unless you needed the tilting head.. If I were to buy a new Dewalt.. and was looking for longevity.. I'd buy it and take it apart.. clean out their grease and fill them up with synthetic grease.. I think one would last a good amount of time doing this.

They can be purchased at most any office supply store...however kind of pricey there.. I buy packs of 500 or 1000 from a eBay seller.. while a big chunk of money up front,, way cheaper than small amounts at a office supply store.. I also use the shelf liner.. put it down on the wood... print the pattern on the label paper.. peel and stick to the shelf liner that is already been placed into the wood.. I like this method over the spray glues etc as there is a lot of mess around the spray glues from over sprays.. This is simple and clean..

Thanks for all the comments.. He really loved the clock and took it out in the shop to all his workers to show it off..

I use full sheet shipping labels..unless it's a large pattern then I use 3M 77

Friend of mine has had a 57 Chevy ever since high school... well a couple years ago another friend from school who owns a local body shop in town bought it and redone the whole car and updated it with all modern power train etc.. anyway.. he just finished it two weeks ago.. I stopped into his shop yesterday to order some parts for a project I am working on.. today my parts are supposed to come in.. so last night I went out in the shop and made this desk clock for him to put on his desk at the shop. Cut this from 5/8" Cherry.. will see if he likes it later today when i go to pick up the parts.

That is supper awesome!! Do you use a zero clearance table for these? I have mixed feeling on the Hawks slot cutout in the table.. on one hand I like it as it lets the blade move for easier bottom feeding.. but on the other hand I feel it's a problem with doing some fragile fretwork too.. I can't imagine doing this type of thing without having some sort of zero clearance.. Anyway.. nice work as always