kmmcrafts

I believe that is what this is.. and I also believe these are the same thing as used in guitars too.. probably my brother that owns a guitar making supply shop has one.. or my other brother that owns a guitar cab building shop might even have one, LOL... probably should have checked with them.. but I ordered one off ebay.. hopefully the one I ordered is what I need.. and yeah.. I can solder the leads.. I just needed the correct part.. LOL

That is stamped B1K and that last thing is not a n it's a ohm symbol I believe.. sort of look like a headphone icon.. LOL

Might be a decent deal for someone looking for a good unused Hegner.. I'd be a little concerned if this saw has sat all these years with tension on the blade though.. as that could create a flat spot on the bearings etc.. That statement I just said could be some bargaining power to lower the price for someone that wouldn't mind having to change the bearings if it in fact does have flats on it now.. These things like this.. is why I don't pay much money for a used or even new ( old ) saw.. or I pay a fair price with the thought in my mind.. I might need to change out bearings ect.. grease can dry out over time.. even not in use.. so even though it's new... it's really not new.. to me anyway Hegner

Hey Rolf, I must have missed this message.. The only numbers I could find on the pot was B1K made by Alpha... I went to my local electric motor shop and they said they don't mess with those things and didn't know much about it.. nor had much advise on what one to buy.. Those guys in this particular shop have been awesome over the years.. but this time they didn't seem to know or want to help.. but then.. I didn't get to talk to the main guy either as he is out for the week. I can snap a picture of it if you'd like.. though I'm not sure how much the camera would pick up and the numbers are just stamped on the back of it..

Was those mills here in west Michigan? My brothers was a circle saw up until 2008.. then he built the bandsaw and made it even more automated.. has a scanner that scans the log to show where to make the cuts for the most lumber I believe now.. He started out working as a kid in a mill...ended up marrying the mill owners daughter. then in I believe 1974 - 75 ish he started this mill up.. started out running it off an old John Deere tractor with a belt to the PTO.. LOL.. Came a long way since then... I remember working for him and trying to turn those logs with a cant hook.. was so exited back in the early 80's when he made that automated..

Very nice!! Thanks for sharing..

Yeah, that dust doesn't do bearings and switches any good...not to mention ones health.. I wear a mask.. but still hate having that dust land all over all the other machines etc in the shop..

Depending upon the design and thickness but.. most are 1/8" plywood and I stack cut most of those 6-7 at a time.. real detailed ones I normally stack no more than 4-5.. then there are some 1/4 cherry ply in the stack that I stacked 4 at a time. I don't normally cut this fast.. but this was a rush order and so I stacked more than i typically like to..and run my saw as fast as it goes.. was averaging about 20 an hr. but normally average 10-12hr.. and just leisurely cut, LOL

Yeah, I have a big dust collection system.. I just haven't hooked it up to the saws has i had planned.. that's on the to-do list though.. I also bought a filtration system to hang from the ceiling.. that was a year ago.. darn thing still sits upstairs still in the box.. been a busy year for me as my daughter graduated HS and then getting her off to college etc.. getting her a decent car to drive ( the jeep liberty that I posted about a few weeks back ).. hasn't been a good year for having shop time.. either busy cutting orders that need to go out asap or some other project going on..

First photo is one of the many scrap bins.. he lets me pick stuff out of these.. but I rarely do because of the wood typically green.. needing planed etc.. and my time of running dumpster diving ( so to speak ) LOL and you only get whatever type wood he may be cutting that day.. I find I'm better ahead to just buy lumber all ready to go.. anyway this scrap ends up in a chipper to make wood chips for the local landscaping places. Next photo is of a cant - slat machine.. and the following photo is of a pallet of cants and then a pallet of slats.. you put the cant in one end and they come out the other as slats.. I think there are around 5 bandsaws in this machine that you can change their location so if you wanted you could adjust it for making 2x4's instead of slats.. Next is a sawdust pile from the mill itself.. that pile is only from this morning.. Next is the log deck and the de-barker.. but the photo doesn't really show much here.. I took some video of the outfit and the actual mill sawing logs etc.. but I need to get my son to help me edit the clips and help me upload these.. if anyone has any interest.. Next photo is just logs.. he says those will be completely gone by days end.. I intended to get more photos and video.. like to have gotten a picture of one of the bandsaw blades.. they are about 10 inch wide blades and maybe 1/8" thick maybe bigger.. been a while since I've seen one.. even though I walked right by them today Anyway, I got video of the sawmill itself sawing a log.. the chipper and the de-barker machine.. if anyone would have an interest in seeing any of it I'll see if my son can help me get a video up.. also my uncle ( lives next door to me ) has a mill that was built back in the 1800's.. of coarse it's been updated to a modern 6 cylinder truck motor to power it.. I could walk over there and get a few pictures too if interested?

This is what a few stacks (150) ornaments looks like and.. well the sawdust was vacuumed a couple times throughout the day.. so this is maybe 1/2 that amount of sawdust on my DeWalt ( I always try to keep it clean.. normally don't let it get built up that much but was in a hurry as a custom order to do as well). 150 ornaments isn't bad for one days work but can't say that's the best I've done either.. These are for a wholesale order so unfortunately I'm only getting $10 each for them.. I typically get 16 each.. Now I need to get back to work.. sanding and finishing.. and another order just came in.. like I said before.. I start getting busy between Sept - end of Oct.. then it slams me with work from Nov. through the year and a couple weeks into Jan. I threw in a shot of my little corner where I work the most.. rest of shop is bandsaw, table saw, planner, jointer, spindle sander, belt sander etc ect.. LOL but this is scroll saw forum so I'll stick to that for now..

Yes, and this is where the Ex- type saw will last longer before needing bearing attention.. On a dewalt.. the sawdust falls through the hole in the table and lands directly onto the lower rocker assembly.. as well as the older Ex's.. but the newer Ex's have the little dust port.. that I would think even not hooked up to a collection system still will catch much of that dust before landing onto the bearings and rocker assembly.. On the saw like Hotshot's that has that shielded bearing.. a shielded bearing is just that.. shielded.. it's not really and open bearing like a DeWalt, Ex type saw.. but.. this bearing in encased into the arm and isn't necessarily exposed to a large amount of dust anyway at the back of the saw.. between the shield ( which by the way sort of acts as a shield to keep dirt etc out but not totally sealed either ) and the saw body / arm etc.. I really doubt much get's into the bearing if any anyway.. At the front of the Hawk.. where the dust is more than likely to get into a bearing.. Hawk used sealed bearings. To rebuild a Hawk saw's bearing I believe you'd need about $20 at best.. to replace the 4 bearings.. while a dewalt saw you need sleeves and bearings.. which run $175 to replace the 25 bearings and 25 sleeves.. I think if one had parts on hand etc.. one could do the job in about 30 min. on a Hawk.. Probably if you was real good and quick.. one could do the DeWalt in about 1-1/2 - 2 hours..

This can be done on sealed bearings too... however it cannot be done on shielded bearings very easily such as the one hotshot has in his saw. I'm not here to start a saw brand war.. I like my DeWalt just the same as I like my Hawks.. I've tested or owned about every popular brand name saw there is other than a Hegner, and the Sakura (sp).. and I'm sure there are a few I don't know about.. I like the DeWalt and EX types saws.. I think they could be better quality made.. but then.. so can a Hawk.. While they are top of the line saws.. everyone can and will find a weak point in any saw.. or something to complain about.. A DeWalt really is a good bang for your buck saw.. while many people say it's a low to mid range saw.. I consider it better than that really myself.. because it's essentially the same durable design as a EX that everyone raves about.. while the EX just has a few better features.. in some's opinion.. features are nice but they don't enhance the longevity or durability of the saw itself.. while EX may have used a higher end bearing with better grease so they run smoother? I don't know that.. maybe why the King saw is so cheap.. anyone mechanical can just buy a DeWalt and when the bearings need done.. buy the upgraded ones and use your own high end grease like I've done.. Anyway, back on topic.. I'm taking my control box to a local electric motor shop this morning to have them look / tell me what Potentiometer will best suite my needs.. since the same part number offers two different watt Potentiometers.. with some luck they will hook me up with one.. (keeping business local if I can ) Then maybe after I am done there I'll stop by my brothers sawmill and see if I can get some photos / videos for you all to see that operation..

I'm not too mad because I kind of expect things like this with a saw like I purchased.. while my saw was new in the box when I got it.. it is a old 1998 saw.. if that bearing was actually greased.. it may have dried up just setting all those years.. as grease does dry out.. and.. I feel even if I have to replace every bearing in the saw... I only paid $400 for it.. and I've made about $2000 worth of product to sell on this particular saw already.. I understand what you mean though.. but on the other hand.. you have to take into account.. most all bearings are made in china now.. and quality of bearings have drastically declined over the years..and it's not like Hawk made the bearings.. they just buy them from a bearing supplier.. at least they have the brains enough to use a sealed bearing.. unlike the dewalt, ex, jet, and seyco type saws..that use a open roller bearings.

I have another Hawk and a DeWalt to use.. so no need to really rush.. don't see any reason I need to replace the whole assembly for a bearing that only cost $3 - 7 depending on how good of one I want.. I took the box apart to find some markings on the Potentiometer.. I google the numbers but I come up with different ones.. one shows 1/5 watt and one shows 1/2 watt.. I don't know much about these so any advice on what to buy would be great.. Only numbers I could find on mine was B1K made by Alpha.. I don't see any other part number or markings etc on it..

They are somewhat flimsy.. while I never had any issue with them wanting to tip over etc.. they are cheap made.. I personally don't put a lot of anything real big bulky in the top end of the them.. leave the heavier items down low.. don't expect to make a drawer hold 100# LOL .. if you want stout.. do like I do with my portraits.. use a heavy made steel file cabinet for the smaller sized (8 x 10 ) portraits.. then you can even use dividers and categorize them.. while I know you don't do portrait work ( me either much anymore ) but it would still work in the same fashion as these plastic drawers..

Yes, I believe the bolt is called a shoulder bolt.. LOL Thank you! Some bearing sizes are oddball and only a couple manufactures even sell them anymore.. so in some cases.. yes you can buy better quality and some cases.. no.. just depends upon what bearing one needs.. In my case.. yes... I can get a high end bearing.. I just need to get the connecting rod bolt out of the motor end of the connecting rod so I can put it into a press as the bearing is pressed in.. However in my case too.. If I cannot get the bolt out of the motor end.. I can take the rest of the saw apart ( table lower arm etc ) to get room and I can press the bearing out using a automotive ball joint press tool or even a C- clamp would probably work to press this out right on the saw.. would have to be very careful not to put too much force on it and damage the connecting rod or the motor itself though.. rather get the bolt out and work on the workbench.. LOL

I'm wondering what the price of the 21" King will be once they start offering that one at woodcraft.. I really like the way my dewalt cuts compared to my Hawk.. maybe just because I'm used to the dewalt after 10 years of using it.. I've contemplated selling both my Hawks to buy a King.. I'd rather sell just one Hawk and buy a 21" King.. this way I keep three saws.. Dewalt Hawk 226 and a King.. but waiting to see the 21" price.

THIS... is exactly why I stopped doing shows and events and concentrated with online sales only... There are only about 4 shows a year that is even worth the effort here in my area....and when I looked into them... there was a waiting list of 3-5 years unless someone croaks or stops entering.. because the people that get in the first year get to sign up for the next one.... they get first dibs on the spot they want etc.. All other shows are quite lame with very little foot traffic etc.. Plus focusing online only.. people shop day or night.. any day of the year.. Takes a good 5-7 years to build up some traffic though.. but it is starting to pay off for me.. You really are fortunate to be in a good location for a lot of different foot traffic..

Hey Rolf, Thank you for the tips.. Mine is also the upper bearing on that connecting rod.. I don't have any bushing... it's a sealed bearing pressed into the connecting rod with a ( I think it's called a) flange bolt.. Man why can't I think of the name of this bolt.. anyway the bolt is larger to match the bearing then turned smaller where the threads are.. Sorry my mind went blank there for the name of the bolts, LOL probably come to me as soon as I post this... I had planned to try to buy just the potentiometer to replace it.. didn't know where to buy them though.. used to be able to get that type of stuff from radio shack but they don't do things like they used to either.. figured I'd search the web for it.. I'll look into the place you mentioned.

Hmmm, I think I am going to take my whole saw apart and check the whole thing out good.. I'm not sure what to say about adding grease to the bearings.. but.. most any bearing I buy I take apart and wash out the supplied grease and re-pack the bearing with high end synthetic grease.. that's just me.. I will probably do this to my saw when I take the rest apart and check out those bearings.. I wonder if my 1998 saw has the same type bearings.. be interesting to find out what's in there. Yeah, I'm still that little kid that takes new things apart just to see how it's made or how it works, LOL I've seen a lot of sealed bearings in my day that was shipped new with little to no grease.. Anyone that has had much time on a grease gun greasing things knows that grease many times in those tubes get air pockets in them from time to time.. I speculate that this probably happen in the big barrels of grease too.. I'm sure this is a automated system and possibly why some bearings get non - to very little grease in them from the factory.. while others get the required amount.. Seems like the manufacture would weigh them to see that they all weigh the same.. maybe a few get slipped past Q.C.

according to the specs in the book.. it weighs in at 108 lbs.. Not sure if that is with the stand or just the saw.. either way as large as it is.. flipping that over at that weight and size.. I'm sure I could do it.. but I'd be afraid to by myself.. hate to drop a new saw upside down.. I'm sure with that weight.. It'd break / bend something..

Must be mine has a different counter weight.. I have a big square block that has 4 cap screws bolted right to the motor.. the counter weight is encased in this I think.. I'll have to look it over again in some better light.. regardless.. it looks to me that the eccentric / counter weight is all encased into this external block.. My seals for the bearing was in tact.. I took them out carefully to try to clean them up and add grease.. I'll just press new bearings into this...if / when I get it apart.. But now.. I am more concerned about the VS control as the saw isn't even usable to me on the lowest setting, LOL

Nicely done...

Nice work!!