kmmcrafts

I've seen those on pinterest and had planned to make some of them to see if they'd sell... Just hadn't got around to it yet..

I do both.. just depends on the situation... It's quicker and easier to just drill them.. but.. you need a nice sharp drill bit or it can tear out.. also drill into another piece of wood to help from tear out on the last one.. I probably just saw the majority of them simply because it takes time to set up the drill press for drill the hole.. then set it back up to drill pilot holes etc.. The holes I really like are the oval shaped ones from the ornaments I've designed myself.. this way it's a bigger hole and I don't feel it's as noticeable if it's not a perfect circle LOL.. At any rate.. make them however works best for you..

Very nice!!

I've heard that back bearing in the connecting rod is a common issue with these saws.. When I took mine apart after just three years of moderate use the bearing and sleeve ( the bigger ones ) was pretty dry on grease and had actually just started to hammer on the sleeve.. I only cleaned them up and added the synthetic grease.. The back end of my saw has the original bearings and sleeves in it still.. haven't taken the back of it apart since.. this has been about 5-6 years ago.. but it is now getting quite noisy back there and a higher speed.. ( around 7/8 to full speed on the dial ) Mine is a type 2.. Now.. I've had the front portion of my saw apart 2 times since that initial time when I had the saw apart.... I now have all new bearings and sleeves for mine.. just need to take it apart and plan to do a total rebuild with it this time.. howver that will probably have to wait until the busy holiday selling season is done.. On a side note... Brand new 788's are on sale at grizzly.com for $399 with stand and light.. I've been contemplating myself.. love my Hawks but if I need to do some rush cutting.... well... my comfort cutting is actually with my 788.. still sort of just using the Hawk as a playing around saw to hopefully one day get used to using it more.. I've been using it more and more.. and getting much more comfortable with it.. But when in a rush.. I still go to the 788..

I made the pattern for the Vette and modified the 56 Chevy pattern I had to be a clock plus some light mods to the design of the car..

That's business strategy.. They do that because they don't like to mess around with small orders..but will if the person chooses to pay them their amount. They'd rather give a discount and ship several thousand to their distributors to let them deal with the smaller orders.. There is a company that makes the clocks I use.. I thought I'd get a better deal through them direct.. wrong.. they are about double the price of the other dealers.. unless I am purchasing several thousand clocks... per month.. LOL then I get a deal.. They don't want to fuss with small business.. but will at a price.. probably some sort of dumb law that requires them to sell.. so they do.. at a price.. but they are really hoping you go to one of the smaller distributors..

Wow! You did awesome on that one.. really like the background.

That's the same kind I use on my DeWalt.. My Hawks both came with a foot switch and they require my foot to hold the switch the whole time I'm cutting. I like either one... Just odd to get used to when I run the DeWalt for a long time then go cut on the Hawk or vise versa. LOL

I'd try searching for the ISBN ( book number ).. search google and I've bought several used books from Barns&Noble.. they have a used section but its goofy how to get to it or it was the last time I used it.. Anyway.. many of these books can be had for just a few bucks.. Sometimes shipping is more than the book.. but in the end still much cheaper than a "New" book

The topic title made me wonder if people were setting on the toilet cutting.. I've never hear of this term before with scroll sawing.. other than stress relief cutting..

I think you are very correct about the advertising.. I also think they are a well built saw.. I think DeWalt got so popular because it was sold in big box stores.. plus DeWalt built a name and reputation years ago.. so people see a deWalt tool and automatically think quality tool.. however I've bought some off brand made in china tools that had help up better than some of my DeWalt stuff..LOL.. I think Dewalt is now made in china too maybe? I don't see a lot of post over the years about Hegners or Hawks.. dominantly DeWalt, Ex's and then the low end stuff.. so..

Yeah LOL, I'd be pretty skeptical about the blade making.. unless that is.. if you'er talking bandsaw blades.. because that's where I get mine.. believe they do make those...well.. weld them together.. they are timberwolf brand blades but I think they probably get them in bulk coil and just make the size you need. Anyway back on topic.. there are a few companies that sell their own scroll saw blades.. but all that I have seen so far are no more than just Olsen blades with whoevers brand name on them.. As for the PS Wood machines scroll saw... I've read many topics on these over the years and everyone that knows anything about them had talked like they are really good saws.. I do not know anything other than what I've read.. They do look like a beefy saw.. they have a video on the site demonstrating the saw.. They have a different looking set up for that lower blade clamp and not so sure I would like that bigger hole in the table top to run the clamp down through.. certainly unique.. might actually be very nice set up once one got used to it..

I was just at a local thrift store over the weekend.. they had a crap load of old records .59 or 4 for $1.. I almost grabbed several.. I've never cut them before and wondered how hard it is to cut and what blades to use.. I'd love to try it sometime.. Told my wife.. my luck would be.. I'd cut up some high valued record because I wouldn't know any better..LOL

Very Nice Work!!!

I don't think I have any pictures but.. my foot switch on my DeWalt sets on top of the lower stand brace.. I didn't drill holes or anything.. I just used two large zip ties.. one on each end.. this has held it in place fairly well over the years and is easy to remove to use on the other saws.. well I used to only have one foot switch.. but both my Hawks came with their own so now each saw has one.. For my Hawk I used a 6x6 block (cutoff from my pole building) and used a cable staple to sort of hold it into position by the power cord.. It does slide around a little but it's manageable until I actually build something more permanent..

While I somewhat agree.. My worst thing ever in my process is actually putting the items on my web site.. While cutting is my favorite..I also do like to prep.. mainly because I like to check out the wood grain and colors and matching them to the project at hand.. so most any of the woodwork portion I like doing.. but coming into the office to work on the web site or any of the computer portion of running my business I put off as long as I can.. So much so that I have approximately 200 new styles of Christmas ornaments that need to get put on the site.. not to mention many portraits and keychains.. I made a lot of keychains about 5 years ago.. had a few of them on my original site and sold quite a few.. just can't get motivated to do the computer part.. Funny though.. If I make a clock.. I'll be excited to get it listed.. so apparently clocks are my favorite thing to make.. and list.. love making ornaments.. but not so much for listing them.. I think the big reason is.. while ornaments sell year round.. I tend to make them in the summer and then get so many new ones to get listed that I just put it off as I get overwhelmed with it..

I mostly use a #3 or #5 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse or same numbers in the Pegas brand.. But.. I typically cut 1/2 - 3/4 inch thick material.. either by stack cutting 3-6 pieces at a time or just cutting solid wood at that thickness.. If only cutting one 1/4" board at a time you probably going to want a #1 or #3.. some people might even say a 0/1 which might be best for that thin of material.. I just don't use much of smaller blades myself so I don't usually have them on hand so I always make due with a#1 or #3..

That stuff looks to me like it's a self adhesive shelf liner.. Many stores carry that stuff.. while I use it to stick the the board then stick my pattern to the shelf liner.. I typically buy clear for that.. but they do have colors and patterns etc too..

Guess I can't offer much help here since I do not use Olsen blades.. That said I'd do to things different than what Steve suggest as a wood thickness.. 3/4" for the backer is quite a hefty backer.. not trying to hang bricks on my wall... LOL I only looked at the first pattern.. since I am production cutting.. I'd be cutting the fret piece from 1/8 BB ply.. then I'd cut the backer out of 1/4 in Walnut or other contrasting ply or hardwood.. Since i ship out most my items I look for light weight for lower cost shipping etc.. I'd also cut out the fret pieces and then use a flat washer to draw out a slightly bigger piece for the backer Make it however suites your needs though.. I just rarely follow the rules / suggestions on patterns.. I make them suite my needs

Looks nice to me Though I do feel like it's a little extra work to do this compared to what I do.. I'll bet it isn't as expensive as my way either.. I typically cut all the inside cuts in my stack cut of portraits.. then I tape a walnut or other contrasting plywood to my stack and cut the backer and portrait out at one time to make them all exactly the same.... That said.. for my portraits like that I use colored foam sheets that I pick up at either Hobby Lobby or Micheal's.. can cut those to size with scissors.. Things that are not framed I typically cut my stack then set one of the pieces of the cuttings onto another contrasting plywood and take a small flat washer and use a pencil and stick the pencil inside of the hole of the washer.. I use the washer as a guide to draw a slightly larger pattern of my cutout onto the plywood to make it slightly larger to give it a boarder.. this way the cutting and the backer do not have to match up perfectly.. Nice work you do anyway.. just different methods than I use

Yeah, I decided on that location because I didn't want to disrupt those classic mustang body lines to put it in the door area as I usually do.. I will say the clock is a very tight fit in that front wheel.. only about a 3/16 - 1/8" around that area..

Cut from 5/8 cherry.. modified Steve Good pattern. Left out the text on this one.. If I cut it again I'll change the text to just say Mustang rather than how Steve had it as 1968 Mustang GT Fastback.. Not a big fan of putting the year on these because some cars I've done are the same body but customers want X year instead.. so from now on to keep things a little more simple.. I plan to leave the year off of them..

Just wanted to add a bit more.. I don't think it matters what saw you try.. ANY saw that is set up different than what you are currently used to using is going to be awkward to get used to.. I like to mess with different types of scroll saws.. I've owned many many different brands.. with different blade clamp styles etc.. each saw was a period of trial and error until I learned what worked for me.. Gotta tell you.. I started sawing with a old Delta 2 speed saw 40-560 type 2.. quickset II blade clamps.. Took a while to learn to operate those clamps.. but I'd never used another saw before.. then came a ryobi with special wrench to change blades.. I hated that thing but did get used to it after a short time.. Then came thumb screws on a Dremel I had.. Thought those was the dumbest things ever as I felt like no way can a guy get those stupid little screws tight enough to hold a blade.. learned to love them and that I don't need to use pliers to tighten them down more Again... when i bought my first Hawk last year.. after a week or so I was about ready to give that thing away or put it in the trash can, LOL made up a lot of new cuss words too .. most of the first 3-4 months I had that saw.. I only used it a handful of times.. mainly because the time of year I bought it was my busy time of year.. I needed to production cut and cut fast as possible.. just wasn't efficient enough on the Hawk for that type of cutting.. but anytime I had a chance I was playing on the Hawk.. slowly got used to the blade changes etc.. Now I can pretty much cut almost as fast on either saw.. Hawk is a little slower cutting than the DeWalt due to the aggressive nature of the DeWalts.. Would love to have a new BM series saw to work on since I can dial in the blade to where I feel like I can cut at a more comfy speed.. Mine has two setting for blade adjustment.. the one is slow going but wow is it great for fine detail work.. the other setting seems to be slightly too aggressive for my type of work.. other than I can stop and change it when doing long outside cuts such as cutting a base for a clock etc.. Anyway I guess my point is.. probably any saw you decide to go with outside of what you use now.. it's going to be awkward to use at first.. I will say though.. I do think my Hawk was the hardest one to get the hang of using.. as a hobbyist I wouldn't worry about it because I'd have all the time in the world to play around with a saw.. but as a business that relies on a comfy fast reliable saw.. well.. lets just say the saw sat for a few months until I was at a point to take my time to learn the saw.. And for the record.. I think every saw should come with the old Delta style quickset II blade clamp.. no thumb screws.. no nothing.. just a cam lever much like the tension lever on the Hawk.. BTW.. that old delta had a tension lever like that too.. only downfall was the lower clamp had a special tool to use.. Also for my type of work.. I think that new Jet saw with the single action clamping / tension in one lever is quite nice looking.. often think I'd like that feature..

Thanks Rolf.. but mine is bigger than a 7/8" while I haven't measured it yet.. I did write down the numbers (1616-2rs) from the seal when I had the seals off.. just did a quick search..that shows mine as 1/2 x 1-1/8 x 3/8.. Not sure if the one in the other end is the same... I plan to take the whole saw apart and just do a once over on all the bearings etc.. think I'll do the same with my old 220VS too.. but one at a time.. I have a local bearing supply that I'll most likely get my bearing from.. The vibration has almost disappeared since just cleaning up the bearing and adding grease.. but I never could get the bearing to work completely smooth so it definitely needs replaced..

I've had my DeWalt apart a few times too.. while never had any electronic issues other than dust in the switch which I blew out and then sealed it with a cut up latex glove and tape.. then bought a foot switch.. I half wonder though.. did you by chance check the motor brushes.. probably good motor still and just the brushes? could have maybe saved you the lap dance.. LOL My DeWalt doesn't like to run when it's cold out.. yeah I'm in the north and have yet put heat in my shop.. anything below 30-35 out there and she spits and sputters until the motor warms up a little.. which is a big reason I bought a different brand (Hawk) saw for a back up as my busy time of the year is when it's cold out.. Saw out there a lot in 10 - 15 degree temps..