kmmcrafts

While I also have been around wood equipment most all my life and have the same experience as you with the larger equipment.. that said though.. most of the larger equipment also had much larger bearing as well as sealed bearings.. As for the saws with open bearings.. They are very small bearings.. and not really much room for much grease... My issue with the DeWalt is I believe that the real fine dust gets into the bearings and soak up any of the liquid portion of the grease.. every time I rebuild that saw.. when i pull out the bearings / sleeves.. there is sawdust and grease mixture which created a real thick dried out paste almost so to speak.. I've taken the front portion of the saw apart several times in the 10 years I've owned it.. while I've only taken the back portion apart only once.. and never even replaced the bearings.. just cleaned them up and added synthetic grease.. Now the saw is finally getting noisy in the back part of the saw so it needs to be taken apart.. I'm hoping to get by with it at least through the busy part of this year.. It's quite a job ( not horrible but time consuming ) to do on these..

Sort of both.. LOL The car design is from DarensGraphix.. His designs aren't really scroll saw patterns but are DXF formatted for CNC metal work.. They just so happen to work for scroll work too... I modified it adding the lower part below the "Cuda" and then made the area for the clock.. I do some of my own design work too but typically buy it if I can find a design to make work for my needs. Also have DonR do many of my car items..

First of all.. let me say no apologies needed.. everyone gets their feather in a ruffle every now and again.. If anything the way my wording in my post is worded.. I should be the one to apologize.. You hit the nail on the head here.. which brings me to this point... Why not sell a saw that "anybody" can set up and run.. Not trying to bash Hawk.. I love mine.. however.. mine is a pre-Bushton machine.. I feel like they are just simply too busy or to rushed to get these saws out the door.. and not REALLY paying attention to the details of the saws or tuning them.. yeah they may need some light tweaking once put together at the customers place.. but I feel Iggys situation could have been avoided.. Ok one bad saw... but two got shipped to him? and he had to work on it after that..

I just mailed this out.. custom ordered as a bosses day gift.. Lucky Boss.. Now.. onto the next custom order.. a 67 Chevelle clock..

I think this is the same saw that I had years ago.. and I come across this doing a simple search of the make and model added manual to the end of the search.. If I remember correctly.. I do think it will take plain end blades.. but don't quote me on that.. I only had mine a very short time back around 2005.. I owned it for a whole 3 weeks... wasn't a bad saw either.. I just had my wheel and deal hat on back then.. LOL Manual

Very nice job with both the pattern and the cutting.. I always liked those little cars.. My friend in high school had one that he dropped a small block Chevy 350 into the engine bay.. LOL Talk about a scooting little car, LOL.... My son says that is the car he'd want if he was to own a car.. He's into the Dodge First Gen Cummins trucks though.. him and brother in law built a 750Hp twin turbo 94 cummins truck to race at the track and now they are building a Nova with a Cummins. LOL.. To be young and have some spending money again

I suppose what I said sounded degrading .. and that isn't how it was intended.. My point was supposed to mean that the old farm boy has so much knowledge of machines etc.. and common sense that he's not thinkin about the the average joe that might get their hands on one of there saws.. seriously the guy that does things everyday it's common everyday sense to him.. and many times the average joe has no idea how to put it together... case in point.. I've seen complaints about the outdated stickers on the new Hawks.. and outdated instruction manual.. a farm boy probably ain't even going to need those instructions or the dumb stickers.. a farm boy will set it up and run it without even thinkin about it.. I know that's how I set up both of mine.. While I might not be a farmer.. I've been around machinery all my life.. and farms.. because every one of my neighbors is a farmer.. have helped them fix equipment.. have restored some old tractors and machinery for them.. been around sawmills and logging equipment all my life.. running skidders at the age of 13.. helping my older brother with the sawmill.. They are too busy to set up those set screws in the center of the blade clamps.. probably figuring the guy using it will adjust it..

I am curious what is the difference between a G4 and say my old ultra or for that matter the newer BM series? I do know of the lower arm protrudes through the adjustment mechanism on the G4.. I believe the blade clamps and many other things are the same design as my Ultra.. I was always under the impression that the BM was basically the same as the G4 other than the ability to adjust the blade movement.. I've never seen a Hegner in person.. One saw that I hope to one day find a deal on and get some first hand experience with.. I've read many others that love them.. while also several say stay away if you do fretwork.. I generally take others opinions with a grain of salt.. because like I've said many times.. sometimes it's just the way the saw was set up.. or the user doesn't know how to correctly work the blade clamps and tension.. many people...including myself.. get used to running one particular saw.. then anything else they try just isn't comfortable for them to use.. due to blade aggression SPM etc etc.. or even the way the saw sets.. One thing I love about my DW788 is the stand.. I have a higher stool to set on..I set my foot switch on the lower part of the stand.. tilt the stand forward.. etc.. very comfy to set at.. My Hawks.. I have to sit on the edge of the stool or stand.. to reach a foot peddle or build a riser block for the peddle.. then I find I have an issue with where to put my legs and feet.. always feel crunch between my stool and the saw stand, LOL Yeah there is things to do to adjust to.. You bring up many good points about all the slots ect with the Hawks.. and I do agree.. one shouldn't have to fuss with any of these things.. I can see having to tune the clamp set screws and things like that.. but tweaking the whole saw is a bit much for most people.. and really shouldn't have the need to do all that anyway..

Yeah, I sort of think they just throw in the set screws wherever.. I bought 4 barrel style clamps for my older Hawk last year.. All 4 of them.. the set screw was not centered.. nor was any of those 4 positioned somewhat the same as each other.. which told me they just put them in.. Not really a big deal to me.. because I tune everything I get new or old.. anyway.. or at least check it.. Something to consider I suppose if you are looking to buy a Hawk I guess... odds might be... it's not going to be squared and tuned right out of the box.. That said.. Dewalt and many of the other brands probably have a automated machine install those screws at a set distance.. Hawk is just a bunch of farm boys putting them together.. Suppose any one of these guys ever runs a scroll saw?..while they designed the saw and I might add.. I think it's pretty well designed.. and improved over the older Hawks.. I think they somewhat lack in the setting up and testing / running the machine before it's shipped out.... That said.. while my DeWalt was set up closest to being tuned right out of the box .. but it was still off some..with some tweaking I had it running smoother than what it was.. That's just the kind of person I am though.. If I bought a brand new car.. I'd be out there tuning it to my liking.. and driving style.. I realize though.. not everyone is like that and would expect it to be perfect out of the box..

This reminds me of the old high school days.. where all us kids was always messing with our cars.. trying to gain that little extra horse power.. LOL .. But one thing for sure.. if you don't mess with them.. you won't learn much about the machine or it's capabilities.. when you know a machine inside out.. when a problem arises.. you can almost always pinpoint the problem.. Us old mechanics can tune a car like many tune a guitar.. "By Ear" .. who needs a dang timing light.. and those marks on the dampener pulley..

I cut mostly 1/2 - 3/4" Cherry.. and I like to cut fast.. I like my saw speed to be fast.. normally run my DW788 if not full speed.. just under full speed.. I do burn sometimes while using the FDUR blades.. Typically use a #3 or 5.. Olsen PG blades don't seem to burn as bad for me but still do at times.. so over the years I've been forced to slow down... that is until I tried the Pegas MG.. blades.. I also find that many times where I normally used a #5 blade.. I can cut with a 3 with a Pegas.. Not always.. but many times I can cut just as fast or faster with a 3 pegas as I can a #5 in other brands.. They last a really long time too..

Iggy, I sure hope you have the issues resolved.. and it turns out to be your favorite saw.. I've felt bad about the experiences you'd had with your saw and since I was one of the ones steering you toward getting a Hawk.. I sort of felt somewhat responsible for the decision you made.. Had I known you'd have all these issues.. I'd of never suggested the Hawk to you.. So I truly hope this works out for you..

Part of the process.. I typically pre-sand and cut plywood blanks to 7.5" x 11" and then apply shelf liner to one.. then stack 4-6 below the top one and tape them together along the sides and ends.. then apply my self adhesive ( full sheet shipping labels ) printed pattern to that.. then pre-drill the holes and cut away..

Really nice work!! I think I might get brave and try one of these someday.. Just curious.. how does cutting those compare to wood? in terms of speed.. You said you run the saw 3/4 speed.. I'd think the coin would build some heat..LOL always figured you'd cut them very slow..

That's awesome! I also bought a new one (still boxed ) 1998 back in May this year.. Took me some time to get used to the clamps and getting the correct tension etc.. You did better than I did as I gave $400 for mine.. Gave $100 for my older model (1993) used lightly.. that one works OK but the motor doesn't give the faster 1700 spm... you wouldn't think that extra 200 spm would be that big of a deal but it does for me anyway..

I believe that is what this is.. and I also believe these are the same thing as used in guitars too.. probably my brother that owns a guitar making supply shop has one.. or my other brother that owns a guitar cab building shop might even have one, LOL... probably should have checked with them.. but I ordered one off ebay.. hopefully the one I ordered is what I need.. and yeah.. I can solder the leads.. I just needed the correct part.. LOL

That is stamped B1K and that last thing is not a n it's a ohm symbol I believe.. sort of look like a headphone icon.. LOL

Might be a decent deal for someone looking for a good unused Hegner.. I'd be a little concerned if this saw has sat all these years with tension on the blade though.. as that could create a flat spot on the bearings etc.. That statement I just said could be some bargaining power to lower the price for someone that wouldn't mind having to change the bearings if it in fact does have flats on it now.. These things like this.. is why I don't pay much money for a used or even new ( old ) saw.. or I pay a fair price with the thought in my mind.. I might need to change out bearings ect.. grease can dry out over time.. even not in use.. so even though it's new... it's really not new.. to me anyway Hegner

Hey Rolf, I must have missed this message.. The only numbers I could find on the pot was B1K made by Alpha... I went to my local electric motor shop and they said they don't mess with those things and didn't know much about it.. nor had much advise on what one to buy.. Those guys in this particular shop have been awesome over the years.. but this time they didn't seem to know or want to help.. but then.. I didn't get to talk to the main guy either as he is out for the week. I can snap a picture of it if you'd like.. though I'm not sure how much the camera would pick up and the numbers are just stamped on the back of it..

Was those mills here in west Michigan? My brothers was a circle saw up until 2008.. then he built the bandsaw and made it even more automated.. has a scanner that scans the log to show where to make the cuts for the most lumber I believe now.. He started out working as a kid in a mill...ended up marrying the mill owners daughter. then in I believe 1974 - 75 ish he started this mill up.. started out running it off an old John Deere tractor with a belt to the PTO.. LOL.. Came a long way since then... I remember working for him and trying to turn those logs with a cant hook.. was so exited back in the early 80's when he made that automated..

Very nice!! Thanks for sharing..

Yeah, that dust doesn't do bearings and switches any good...not to mention ones health.. I wear a mask.. but still hate having that dust land all over all the other machines etc in the shop..

Depending upon the design and thickness but.. most are 1/8" plywood and I stack cut most of those 6-7 at a time.. real detailed ones I normally stack no more than 4-5.. then there are some 1/4 cherry ply in the stack that I stacked 4 at a time. I don't normally cut this fast.. but this was a rush order and so I stacked more than i typically like to..and run my saw as fast as it goes.. was averaging about 20 an hr. but normally average 10-12hr.. and just leisurely cut, LOL

Yeah, I have a big dust collection system.. I just haven't hooked it up to the saws has i had planned.. that's on the to-do list though.. I also bought a filtration system to hang from the ceiling.. that was a year ago.. darn thing still sits upstairs still in the box.. been a busy year for me as my daughter graduated HS and then getting her off to college etc.. getting her a decent car to drive ( the jeep liberty that I posted about a few weeks back ).. hasn't been a good year for having shop time.. either busy cutting orders that need to go out asap or some other project going on..

First photo is one of the many scrap bins.. he lets me pick stuff out of these.. but I rarely do because of the wood typically green.. needing planed etc.. and my time of running dumpster diving ( so to speak ) LOL and you only get whatever type wood he may be cutting that day.. I find I'm better ahead to just buy lumber all ready to go.. anyway this scrap ends up in a chipper to make wood chips for the local landscaping places. Next photo is of a cant - slat machine.. and the following photo is of a pallet of cants and then a pallet of slats.. you put the cant in one end and they come out the other as slats.. I think there are around 5 bandsaws in this machine that you can change their location so if you wanted you could adjust it for making 2x4's instead of slats.. Next is a sawdust pile from the mill itself.. that pile is only from this morning.. Next is the log deck and the de-barker.. but the photo doesn't really show much here.. I took some video of the outfit and the actual mill sawing logs etc.. but I need to get my son to help me edit the clips and help me upload these.. if anyone has any interest.. Next photo is just logs.. he says those will be completely gone by days end.. I intended to get more photos and video.. like to have gotten a picture of one of the bandsaw blades.. they are about 10 inch wide blades and maybe 1/8" thick maybe bigger.. been a while since I've seen one.. even though I walked right by them today Anyway, I got video of the sawmill itself sawing a log.. the chipper and the de-barker machine.. if anyone would have an interest in seeing any of it I'll see if my son can help me get a video up.. also my uncle ( lives next door to me ) has a mill that was built back in the 1800's.. of coarse it's been updated to a modern 6 cylinder truck motor to power it.. I could walk over there and get a few pictures too if interested?