kmmcrafts

I still haven't made any changes to the Ex-21.. straight out of the box and today I stack cut 3 different ornaments.. sort of getting used to running the saw.. when time allows I'll start doing some adjusting on it.. Really wanted to use my DW788 for today's cutting however I have it set up with an angle for a certain project that's only half done and didn't really want to disturb my angle until my project is done.. but needed to get these ornaments out in the mail today.. Anyhow.. even though I'm still learning to use the new saw I think I cut about as fast as I would on the DW788.. Kind of getting used to that upper blade clamp now.. but that upper arm would be nice if it went up on it's own like the Hawks and my DW788 with the easylift attachment. Those of you that have a Ex-21.. How smooth does it do at full speed? Mine has a couple spots that it vibrates pretty bad one of which is at the lower end of the speed dial and the other starts in just slightly before full speed and stays that way at full speed.. I've been running it just below the spot at the full speed where it's just starting to hit that bad spot.. then I back it off just a hair.. would like to run it slightly faster.. but not horrible where it's at.. I'm sure some of this and maybe all of it is the way i have it mounted on the small stand with the big sheet of plywood.. I mounted it off to the side so it's not centered on the stand or the plywood.. I did that because I was hoping for a little shelf space to put my blade caddy off to the one side of it.. Think I'm going to have to rethink the way I have it..

Interesting.. I wonder how many of these sold over the years.. My 1993 220VS serial number is 23XXX.. It's on the low side of that 23XXX

You need the serial number and call Bushton to know what year it is. Can get a ball park idea by what style lower clamp it has. Round barrel looking clamp would be earlier one... guessing 1996 ish is when they went to a different clamp. Maybe earlier than that not sure but I’m pretty sure the 96 year had the newer clamp.

It'd be real nice if there was a sample pack of each size and brand of blade.. then one could just play and decide what blade they like best for their machine and their style of cutting.. Honestly there probably isn't a style and size blade I probably haven't tried.. on my DeWalt.. sort of the Pegas spirals... then I got used to my "go to blade" then I got a Hawk.. totally different game player for what blade is my go to blade.. Now I just got the Excalibur set up.. I'm sure it's going to be another new learning curve.. So with that said.. all those post about.. "What Blade" just my opinion here.. but there are as many answers to that question as there are to what saw to get, what car to buy, what dishwasher to get etc etc etc... and at the end of the day.. my best suggestion to them is to get sample packs of each blade and brand.. cut some projects and find what blade works best for your comfort level..

Yeah, Aluminum would be ideal material.. I think what he is doing is just more of an experiment and if all goes well he'll have a "more permanent" aluminum one made.. Not too sure maybe one could cut that thick of aluminum on a scroll saw.. probably be real slow going and use many blades, LOL

If I put the blade clear to the back of the clamp the thumb screw misses the blade.. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. I do need to go through the manual as I could be doing it wrong or have something set up wrong.. Plus.. in taking the saw out of the box.. there was a blade in it.. but in putting my own blade in.. the blade seemed like it was too short.. I raised the upper arm and lowered it again just to be sure it was all the way down.. which it was.. so then I turned the knob at the back of the saw just enough to make it reach the blade.. I'm guessing that was what I was supposed to do.. but I need to read through the manual before I mess up some of the settings.. plus I can then know a little about the saw LOL.. even though I did read a manual online a couple years back when I was thinking about buying one.. but I can't remember what it said now, LOL

That was what I was thinking of, but like you I don’t know what it’s called. Lol

Thank you

Well I just came in from cutting a stack of 4 B.B. plywood 1/8” ornaments. Initial impression is it’s a nice cutting saw right out of the box so far. Two things that at the moment I don’t like ( sure it’s just a learning curve ) . I may be spoiled in my Hawks and withe the easy lift on my 788.. but I am used to the upper arm to just go up on its own so that was a little annoying to me at first. Near the end of cutting the stack I was already getting used to it some. The other thing is I keep trying to put the blade clear to the back of the upper clamp. It seems as though you have to sort of figure out where the center of the set screw and the thumb screw is as the blade can go back behind it and trick me into thinking it’s in and tight until I hit the tension lever, lol. Both Hawks and DeWalt you can put it back to the back of the clamp. I’m sure I will adjust to it though.

I like all the types of blades I’ve used from the Pegas brand ( haven’t tried the spirals yet, almost ordered some my last order) For me it depends on the saw I’m using as to the size blade I use. On my DeWalt I typically use a 3 MG Pegas where I’d normally use a 5 in a FD UR. But on the Hawks I use the 5 MG Pegas.

Oops double posted for some reason

So a friend of mine does circle track racing. Contacted me today to see about making him a throddle body spacer for the race car. He has the gasket and said I just need to copy the gasket. He’s wanting 1/4” thick. My question is if anyone might know. What wood would be best for this? As it would be on the engine and heating up and cool down. I’m actually thinking some sort of plastic would be better than wood. But also thought bb plywood would be the most stable wood probably? Maybe paint it with temp paint? Anyone have any suggestions or tips? Never took on a project like that before, though my son and I was going to make a throddle body spacer for a build we are doing. We was just going to build as a mock up and a test to see what would work best for our build before having one machines to our specs.

That is a pretty good weekend. Congratulations!! No get busy so you can sell out at the next one lol

Well since my birthday is today and is a day to do whatever I want I decided to take the time to unbox and set up my new Excalibur Ex-21. Got it set up and mounted it to a stand then did one little test cut. Only 30F out in the shop today and snowing. So I was too cold to do much more. Definitely needs some tweaking as it’s not nearly as smooth as my DeWalt but some of that it my jury rigged stand etc. Anyway happy to have it unboxed and mounted to the stand. While doing a test cut the blower fell off apparently they never tighten the two little screws on the bottom of the arm. Maybe I’d better check everything over.

I think a lot really depends on the person using the saw.. as well as the type of projects they make.. Love my Hawks for cutting thin stock with fine fret details.. ( something I don't do a lot of ) I find I like my DeWalt better for cutting thicker ( 1/2") stock or stack cutting.. which is mostly what I do.. Still like cutting on the Hawk with thicker stock if I am not in any hurry to get the job done ( leisure cutting ).. but when orders come in and need done asap.. I go to the DeWalt.. as it's faster more aggressive at cutting... I'm guessing a Hawk would be a nice machine for a beginner.. because they don't chew the wood quite so fast and sharp turns are easier..

Even if the wedges are worn.. that can be replaced.. ( not too expensive ) in fact you can sand them down to a fairly sharp point to.. however I am not sure how many times one can do that.. at some point I think you would need to send the arm in to have that part of it machined.. As for the controller, I'm not real certain what happens to them.. ( maybe the controller gets worn and doesn't work right ) I would think one could get a new controller and solder it up to work.. much like I did when i broke the one off on my newer Hawk. Hawk doesn't really offer any electronic service like that.. they just buy a new motor and controller assembly to install in the saw for you.. But I do know there was some issues with these motor / controller assemblies.. I've had mine go bonkers a couple times.. and fluctuate speed like jumping up speed real fast then slow where I had it set at.. mostly when ever I adjust the speed while the saw is running it got jumpy but only when I mess with the setting then it clears up in a couple seconds.. I just don't mess with the setting while the saw is running anymore and no issues.. Good condition saw is probably worth $150 I gave $100 for mine.. I figured it would give me a taste of what all the hype about Hawk saws was.. even if it only lasted a short time.. I've got my 100 out of it several times over and probably sold 500 - 1000 worth of projects that was made with that saw..

My 1998 226 ultra has this same style clamps.. but those older ones have a round clamp and there is not roll pin.. thus the slot on the base.. still somewhat the same concept though.. just wanted to clarify that so we don't confuse him with two different types of clamps.. The older ones clamps are called barrel clamps.. same basic barrel clamp as what the new Jet uses.. other than Hawks clamps have a brass bushing so you don't wear out the lower slot in the arm with the harder steel clamp that the Jet uses..

This is my take on the saw.. since I have not seen the saw.. and just based off what I know about my older 220VS saw which is a 1993. Mine has the older style motor that if / when there becomes an issue with the variable speed.. there supposedly is no fix other than to replace the motor and controller together which Bushton will do but if I remember correctly cost around $350 plus you have to ship the saw to them. Not a huge issue to me because I'm pretty certain I can find a fix to do myself.. have seen where others have wired direct but then it's stuck at full speed.. As for the clamps.. there is a slot ( kind of oval shaped ) in the base of the saw that holds the clamp while you tighten the thumb screw.. Took me quite some time to get used to the clamps.. comes second nature now.. I do like the saw.. and really haven't had any issues with it.. but I also don't use it a whole lot either.. Only got it because the price was right. I upgraded the air hose to the flexible one ( add-on kit from Bushton ) . I don't think it has nearly the vibration as my newer Hawk.. but the newer one is also a 226 ( 26 inch throat ) so that could be a difference. It also tops out at 1500 SPM ( strokes per min. ) while the newer ones top at 1750 SPM If you choose to go look at it.. take a look at the wedges at the back of the saw and see that they are fairly pointed.. they get worn and that will give a sign as to haw much the saw had been used.. a worn wedge can make your tension fluctuate during the stroke.. the wedge should be quite pointed.. They are located at the back of the arm and the tension rod goes through them. I'm sure there is more I could say but this is a good start..

I also wanted to mention that since someone mentioned Steve Good doing a review of the Seyco saw.. He also has done two reviews of the new Jet saw.. one being the un-boxing and assembly.. and then a couple months later a review of the saw itself.. also made some custom piece for the lower blade clamp.. Just thought I'd mention that also..

Not to throw this off topic.. but some big name companies do make a low end tool just to get some of the low end buyer market.. Not sure on saws and tools.. but as for say.. John Deere as an example.. 10+ years ago they started selling what was called Scotts lawn / garden equipment.. sold at Home Depot.. they was a cheap stamped sheet metal framed lawn tractor.. and there was no comparison to there actual John Deere tractors.. Now they brand it with their own name and sell them though many outlets.. Lowes here in my town carry John Deere tractors.. again these are just cheap made tractors compared to what you'd see at a actual John Deere dealer.. Other lawn equipment brands tried doing this same thing.. Cub Cadet.. as another example.. cheap steel frames.. and transmissions made of cheap aluminum etc.. nothing like the older Cub Cadet tractors.. I don't believe Cub makes a high end tractor anymore.. In fact I think MTD corp.. bought the Cub name and the Cub today is just a re -bagged MTD.. Like I said though... Not sure if this same thing applies to tools and saws.. can't say I've seen it myself.. but not to say they aren't doing it..

Congrats on the new shiny saw!! After you use that new saw for a while.. then go back and try to cut with the old one once.. you'll wonder how you was even able to make anything halfway decent on that old saw, LOL

I'm guessing because of the fact that it's a bottom feeder only saw.. Also it's new.. and many people aren't spending that kind of money with very little "chatter" about the saw.. The price point of this Jet saw is higher on the spectrum to like saws.. that are top / bottom feed... ie Excalibur / King / Seyco etc etc.. the price point isn't too far off from the Hawk either.. so I think people are more comfortable spending their hard earned money with reputable places such as Seyco.. Most are also a little sketchy and don't like change and just don't know if they'd like the new clamping system of the Jet.. This is just my speculation only.. I don't really know.. other than this is somewhat how I feel about the Jet myself.. I do like the upper clamp design with the clamp & tension all with one simple motion of one lever.. how durable is the upper clamp? is something we may have to wait a few years to find out... I will say.. they have one on display at one of my local supply stores I go to often.. and about every time I go I look it over... about 50 - 60% of the time I look it over.. the upper blade clamp is broke or jammed ans wont work.. I'm guessing it's all the people playing with the display model trying to figure out the new system.. but also it worries me about how well that clamp will work for longer term use of fretwork..

I use mineral oil and beeswax mix.. and I do not spray any kind of top coat finish on top of that.. most all my work is with this finish with the exception of portraits and my wall clocks. those get solvent based poly spray and on certain occasions.. I use the water based poly spray.. the water based poly might have a strong smell at first but dries really fast so it's nice in those rush type orders.. If I was doing work like you had shown.. I'd use either danish oil or poly clear.. that type of work looks nice with a nice coat of clear.. do not like clear sprays on fret type work.. because I rarely see a nice even coat sprayed in the fret areas etc.. I think that type of work looks best in a natural wood look..

That's Awesome!!! I also got a saw last week ( Excalibur Ex-21).. I haven't had time to do anymore than open the box and peek at it, LOL.. I really think the upper clamp once you get used to it will be very nice with fretwork type work..

I never tried it or heard of anyone doing it.. and the way I apply it.. like Dan said.. I'd stain my hands cloths and many other things.. not to mention the reason I use it is because of the strong smells that come from stains etc.. and virtually no drying time needed.. so when customers order and want it three days before they ordered.. I can ship it right away.. without waiting for the strong smell to ease up..