kmmcrafts

I also read that quite some time ago.. but I still haven't seen anything.. I would think the only thing they need is the paint color and the stickers.. not like they need to redesign the wheel.. LOL..

$500? Did you click to convert to USA $$.. because I got a price of $1017 well that was with stand and switch.. but still.. at that price I'd go to woodcraft and get the King version in a 30" saw for about the same money

The ( as we knew it ) Excalibur is sold under many different names now.. Not too long ago Hotshot posted a photo of several Ex saws with different names on them.. Was posted in another topic but.. anyway.. I think there was about 7-8 different colors and names.. So yes from what I can see.. it's just a Ex with a different name..

Not this one, LOL I've only got one DeWalt and two Hawks, My thought was AmazingKevin.. but then he mentioned Georgia.. and I think AmazingKevin lives in Florida.. so not too sure who we are talking about..

First and foremost I'd check the bearing to be sure it spins smooth and doesn't sound dry.. Maybe you already have.. But if the bearing is bad it can get hot and expand enough on that soft aluminum to create the issue you have.. classic sign of a failing bearing is doing exactly what you have going on.. Many times I take a real small tool like a dentist would use to scrape teeth.. I pick at the edge of the seal on the outer part of the bearing ( larger diameter part ) and pick / pry out the seal.. carefully as it bends easy.. anyway you can pick the seal off the bearings and add grease to them.. Truth be told though.. If I had this issue I'd probably opt for the whole assembly with new bearings.. because you are probably going to experience more issues with it before too long anyway.. and while the saw is apart.. Maybe time isn't an issue for you.. but for me I need to have my saw running in top shape if at all possible.. Only way I'd do these suggestions is if I was in a pinch to get orders out while my new part is being shipped to me..

Don't know how comfortable you are with repairing things.. but rather than using paper.. you could try taking the part off the saw.. lay it onto a bench and use a punch and hammer.. you might try what I call pinging the metal in a couple spots to hold the bearing in place.. In other words you punch the metal ( in this case I think aluminum ) right near the bearing just enough to expand it outward toward the bearing.. just one or two spots of doing this would tighten up that bearing and keep it in place.. I'd do that before using paper.. should the bearing fail with paper in there it could set the paper on fire, LOL..

I just did a google search for "Metal tea light inserts" and found these as well as other sites that had them.. not sure about finding them in a local box store.. but anyway I think these are what they are.. http://katescornerstone.com/two-inserts-for-glass-candle-holders-and-tea-lights?language=en&currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwj8bPBRBiEiwASlFLFcA-kq_44I9a9WE_LPsCUrJfpBIrckqbbQha4AhxKUPYV8t0luz8zhoC3xUQAvD_BwE

Believe the bearing is a pressed in bearing.. Also about that rod.. I think I've read somewhere about that and they mentioned to just turn the rod inward a turn or two.. Don't quote me on that though.. maybe totally different issue.. but I do remember reading about turning that rod in a couple turns to stop the thing from rattling... Think I read this on Rick Hutchins web site.. I found it years ago searching for "dewalt scroll saw tune up" Edit to add link to the site.. http://www.scrollsaws.com/SawReviews/DewltTuneUp.htm

Sounds like overall you are happy with your purchase.. I'd like to try one of the Hegners one day.. they really seem to be built really heavy duty.. . I just read a lot about them not being that user friendly for fret work style cutting.. but.. that might be coming from the mouth of a top feeder, LOL.. I'm a bottom feeder so that isn't an issue for me, LOL.. as for the table.. I think one could make a table of their own if the table size was an issue to their type of work.. I personally don't cut a lot of larger stuff.. Mostly ornaments and small desk clocks.. imagine that table is big enough for those.. I didn't even know you had placed an order for one.. Last I'd seen you went to Bushton and looked at the Hawk.. Either way.. glad you was able to get a higher end saw that should meet your needs for many years..

That might depend upon how long you've been doing it.. I first seen these about 2-3 years ago.. Your design is different in that you put the text on the outside of the state.. ones I seen was cut out if the shape, LOL and then they put a heart in the location the customer needed.. LOL

I've seen those on pinterest and had planned to make some of them to see if they'd sell... Just hadn't got around to it yet..

I do both.. just depends on the situation... It's quicker and easier to just drill them.. but.. you need a nice sharp drill bit or it can tear out.. also drill into another piece of wood to help from tear out on the last one.. I probably just saw the majority of them simply because it takes time to set up the drill press for drill the hole.. then set it back up to drill pilot holes etc.. The holes I really like are the oval shaped ones from the ornaments I've designed myself.. this way it's a bigger hole and I don't feel it's as noticeable if it's not a perfect circle LOL.. At any rate.. make them however works best for you..

Very nice!!

I've heard that back bearing in the connecting rod is a common issue with these saws.. When I took mine apart after just three years of moderate use the bearing and sleeve ( the bigger ones ) was pretty dry on grease and had actually just started to hammer on the sleeve.. I only cleaned them up and added the synthetic grease.. The back end of my saw has the original bearings and sleeves in it still.. haven't taken the back of it apart since.. this has been about 5-6 years ago.. but it is now getting quite noisy back there and a higher speed.. ( around 7/8 to full speed on the dial ) Mine is a type 2.. Now.. I've had the front portion of my saw apart 2 times since that initial time when I had the saw apart.... I now have all new bearings and sleeves for mine.. just need to take it apart and plan to do a total rebuild with it this time.. howver that will probably have to wait until the busy holiday selling season is done.. On a side note... Brand new 788's are on sale at grizzly.com for $399 with stand and light.. I've been contemplating myself.. love my Hawks but if I need to do some rush cutting.... well... my comfort cutting is actually with my 788.. still sort of just using the Hawk as a playing around saw to hopefully one day get used to using it more.. I've been using it more and more.. and getting much more comfortable with it.. But when in a rush.. I still go to the 788..

I made the pattern for the Vette and modified the 56 Chevy pattern I had to be a clock plus some light mods to the design of the car..

That's business strategy.. They do that because they don't like to mess around with small orders..but will if the person chooses to pay them their amount. They'd rather give a discount and ship several thousand to their distributors to let them deal with the smaller orders.. There is a company that makes the clocks I use.. I thought I'd get a better deal through them direct.. wrong.. they are about double the price of the other dealers.. unless I am purchasing several thousand clocks... per month.. LOL then I get a deal.. They don't want to fuss with small business.. but will at a price.. probably some sort of dumb law that requires them to sell.. so they do.. at a price.. but they are really hoping you go to one of the smaller distributors..

Wow! You did awesome on that one.. really like the background.

That's the same kind I use on my DeWalt.. My Hawks both came with a foot switch and they require my foot to hold the switch the whole time I'm cutting. I like either one... Just odd to get used to when I run the DeWalt for a long time then go cut on the Hawk or vise versa. LOL

I'd try searching for the ISBN ( book number ).. search google and I've bought several used books from Barns&Noble.. they have a used section but its goofy how to get to it or it was the last time I used it.. Anyway.. many of these books can be had for just a few bucks.. Sometimes shipping is more than the book.. but in the end still much cheaper than a "New" book

The topic title made me wonder if people were setting on the toilet cutting.. I've never hear of this term before with scroll sawing.. other than stress relief cutting..

I think you are very correct about the advertising.. I also think they are a well built saw.. I think DeWalt got so popular because it was sold in big box stores.. plus DeWalt built a name and reputation years ago.. so people see a deWalt tool and automatically think quality tool.. however I've bought some off brand made in china tools that had help up better than some of my DeWalt stuff..LOL.. I think Dewalt is now made in china too maybe? I don't see a lot of post over the years about Hegners or Hawks.. dominantly DeWalt, Ex's and then the low end stuff.. so..

Yeah LOL, I'd be pretty skeptical about the blade making.. unless that is.. if you'er talking bandsaw blades.. because that's where I get mine.. believe they do make those...well.. weld them together.. they are timberwolf brand blades but I think they probably get them in bulk coil and just make the size you need. Anyway back on topic.. there are a few companies that sell their own scroll saw blades.. but all that I have seen so far are no more than just Olsen blades with whoevers brand name on them.. As for the PS Wood machines scroll saw... I've read many topics on these over the years and everyone that knows anything about them had talked like they are really good saws.. I do not know anything other than what I've read.. They do look like a beefy saw.. they have a video on the site demonstrating the saw.. They have a different looking set up for that lower blade clamp and not so sure I would like that bigger hole in the table top to run the clamp down through.. certainly unique.. might actually be very nice set up once one got used to it..

I was just at a local thrift store over the weekend.. they had a crap load of old records .59 or 4 for $1.. I almost grabbed several.. I've never cut them before and wondered how hard it is to cut and what blades to use.. I'd love to try it sometime.. Told my wife.. my luck would be.. I'd cut up some high valued record because I wouldn't know any better..LOL

Very Nice Work!!!

I don't think I have any pictures but.. my foot switch on my DeWalt sets on top of the lower stand brace.. I didn't drill holes or anything.. I just used two large zip ties.. one on each end.. this has held it in place fairly well over the years and is easy to remove to use on the other saws.. well I used to only have one foot switch.. but both my Hawks came with their own so now each saw has one.. For my Hawk I used a 6x6 block (cutoff from my pole building) and used a cable staple to sort of hold it into position by the power cord.. It does slide around a little but it's manageable until I actually build something more permanent..