kmmcrafts

Both my Hawks are before the redesign in 2005 ish so mine are only bottom feeders.. that works out good for me as I grew up a bottom feeder, LOL That said.. I could see one having issues with these style blade clamps.. even as a bottom feeder.. they was a little tricky to get used to..

He said it was magnetic.. so it's easily moved....

Nice work!! Cut on the Hawk? or you back at it on the DeWalt? I swap back and forth between the two ( actually three ) saws.. Today was ornament cutting day for me.. cut several stacks of them on my Hawk now that I replaced the VS switch.. one day very soon will be finishing day.. I have about 400 ornaments to put a finish on and ribbons

Forgot to post this the other day... this was another custom order I did last week. Made the pattern from a picture the customer provided.. Not sure how well I really like it.. but the customer just loves it and has been showing everyone.. now i'm sure there will be more orders for car clocks coming.. as they are in some large car club..

These are the best clocks I've found.. USA Made Clock Movements As for larger inserts.. That same company will make custom order clocks.. but.. they have a minimum order amount.. and it might be pricey.. I haven't ordered anything yet.. still sorting through the ones I have.. I've been building my own USA made clock inserts buy using the insert I have stocked up on.. and swapping out the movement in the insert to the better USA made movement... As for the little 1-7/16 inserts.. I've honestly never had one come back.. and also.. I've bought these from many different suppliers.. and my findings are.. they are all the same clock.. just different pricing points from different suppliers.. There used to be what they called a premium and standard ones.. premium was a metal back cover and case with glass lens.. I don't find two different options anymore.. well re phase that.. some places might still offer it.. but I've purchased and it's the same clock.. pretty much all of them are plastic casings but I do think they are mineral glass lens and all now seem to have the stainless back cover.. so as far as I know.. all the little clocks are the same.. just choose the lowest priced place to order, LOL I don't have any experience with any other clocks other than the 1-7/16 and the 3" inserts.. so I don't know anything about other sized clocks.. those are the only two sizes I've used..

Nope, top clamp is different.. I doubt 1/16 would fit.. if it did it'd be a tight fit..

You may already know this but Hawk sells a drip system for their scroll saws.. not sure if one could be retrofitted to another machine or not.. while it looks simple enough to make one anyway..

Never heard of one of these before, I had to google what it was... now I want one.. just what I need.. another saw

Well, Guess I should have looked at the ad.. The 226 is a G4.. That 220 is a old one.. The newer 220's was machined out fora round insert in the lower arm at the back for the wedge.. I can't see it real good in the photo but I think it has no round insert just a machined arm..

Yeah but we all know they use whatever stickers they have on hand right If you look at it ( I haven't looked yet..) but the plain 226VS and 226 Ultras the lower arm was behind the angle adjustment mechanism.. The G4 and newer saws had that lower arm come out past the angle mechanism.. Just for another reference..

Yay.. The Hawk is back up and running again.. however somewhere I got mixed up on my testing and connections and wired it backwards so the slow speed was on high.. so.. I took it back apart and swapped the wires, LOL now it's correct.. Now.. to take it apart for the bearing swap.. but first.. I think I want to run it a little and see if it's better with just cleaning the bearing up and adding grease... Didn't run it tonight other than testing the switch.. Thank you all for the help,

For practice plywood is great..because it lets you get a feel for blade control.. I suggest practice with plywood rather than hardwood.. Why?... because BB plywood is pretty consistent.. cutting hardwoods has hard and soft spots in the wood grain.. that really complicate things for a new scroll sawyer.. I have a shop full of equipment as well.. and dimension most of my lumber to whatever my project needs are.. that said though.. for thin wood and making ornaments.. I typically make them from plywood... for a couple reasons.. first being.. plywood doesn't cup /warp like the thin wood will.. second is because of the strength of the plywood for small ornaments of thin wood ( especially red oak ) will break easily along the grain on very detailed pieces.. which is especially a bad idea for a new sawyer.. All of my ornaments used to be made of hardwoods.. but as I got busier selling them I found that I don't have all the time in the world to search out "GOOD" tight grained wood.. cutting my own hardwood got to time consuming to resaw and plane down enough wood to cut a few hundred ornaments a week.. purchasing the wood already cut to size proved to get me a lot of cupped / warped lumber by the time I got home with it.. I'd suggest the good Baltic Birch plywood.. not the stuff sold in the big box stores either.. Good luck with your practicing.. take your time learning..

While you've made more clocks and have sold more than I have over the years.. it sounds like to me you haven't had to purchase any of the "NEW" junk made in China clocks yet.. Allot has changed with these clock inserts in just the last 3-6 years.. ( I've been selling for about 5-6 years ).. I've actually been building my own clocks to replace the junk ones I've sold to customers that have complained.. Yeah, I replace them for free so I don't get a bad rap from the junk the suppliers are now offering.. I've done the whole thing about buying and pre running the clock for 3-4 weeks.. many of them come back to me anyway because they just stopped working.. while most complaints have been running either fast or slow many come back as completely stopped so whats the point.. they are simply junk.. About 40 -50% come back.. not very good odds.. They are warrantied by my supplier for only 3-6 months ( cant remember now but I have to have receipt ) and the manufacture has a 3 year on these.. but again proof of purchase and dealing with them is just as much hassle.. I still wonder if I didn't just get a bad batch.. but since I order a few hundred at a time.. I'll have a few around here for a little while The manufacture ( now that I know who that is ) will custom make clocks per your request.. my next order will be inserts made with the USA made motor.. I've already talked with them about this..

Sometimes it's harder to sell a low priced item than it is to sell a higher priced item.. I usually have a set bottom dollar amount that I will take for a piece.. Sometimes I play around with a piece.. for instance I had an item that was priced at $18 sat on it two years.. finally I raised the price to $28 but scratched it out and reduced to $22 sold it for 22 and actually got a couple orders for a few more, LOL sometimes it takes people thinking they are getting a bargain to make a purchase.. I have yet to not sell something for what I needed out of it.. always figured if I can't sell I'll donate it to salvation army or goodwill.. since all items have my web site on them.. I figured maybe some free advertising on items I cannot sell.. however I haven't ever had the chance to actually do that yet.. because I play with pricing on those items to mess with minds to think they got a deal.. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.. but by all means.. I wouldn't make firewood out of it when you have the opportunity to use it as advertising.. and advertising is tax deductible.. firewood? I doubt can be deducted, LOL

Yeah, not to sure about that one... many customers I have message me after getting their clock asking what size battery it takes.. I cannot imagine them trying to put the clock motor on or purchasing a motor for 1/4" wood when the product is 1/2" etc.. For what it's worth.. I do include a care sheet with battery size wood care etc in my boxes I ship out.. let alone.. it's also listed in my listings what battery it takes.. I've found that many people read about as far as the first couple sentences and that's it.. sometimes I don't think they read any of the description.. they just look at the picture.. I'd much rather just fork out the $$ to buy a quality clock motor.. those $$ are transferred to the cost of the clock anyway.. so it's not really my pocket it comes from..

I'd go with clockparts.com and choose the USA made motors.. I believe you get to pick a pair of hands with each motor you purchase.. the face itself will be extra though.. but not much money

Just draw a straight line on your wood and stay on the line when cutting it.. No seriously that is what I did before I had a table saw or bandsaw.. it can be done but you need to take your time.. don't push the wood through just let the blade do the cutting. If you have access to a belt sander or even just a long sanding board you could always get it close then sand it to be the size you need.. But in all honesty.. you're better off with a table saw

Thank you for the tip on the wiring.. I sort of wondered if they would all be the same..and I didn't think about using a meter to check.. good advice.. I did already order a pot on ebay.. just came in the mail today.. and yes I ordered the linear type.... haven't messed with it yet though.. today was break job day on the wife's van.. new hoses calipers rotors and of coarse pads..on all four corners.. If I can still move tomorrow ( getting too old to crawl around under the cars now days lol) I may mess with changing the pot.. though I do have another clock order to make so probably should do that first..

Yeah, those made in China clocks.. they are as useful as the package they come in.... for the clock motors.. I buy USA made ones.. they can be bought at Clockparts.com USA made ones have a red colored switch on the back to turn them on / off with.. rest are China made ones.. that don't keep time.. I haven't found any other USA made supplier of these other than clockparts.com.. If you're stuck on a bigger insert you can buy a USA ( no thread ) movement and take them apart to changed the China motor for the USA motor.. Clock Movements I buy my little inserts.. 1-7/16 from woodworkingparts.com woodworkingparts

Yeah, what type and size? I sell a lot of clocks.. I've done a lot of research on clocks over the last couple of years.. and quite frankly.. I am discontinuing any inserts other than those little ones with the Seiko watch motor any of those bigger inserts are made in China.. and almost all of the 50+ customers have messaged me with complaints of them either not keeping time or just plain stopped working... even the so called USA made clocks are the same China motor but assembled in the USA.. same dam clock with a wide variety of pricing.. anything other than the little motors.. I am redesigning my patterns to make them accept just the motor and hands.. This is my experience with clocks.. Oh.. and from my experience on the little 1-7/16" inserts.. most suppliers are selling the same clock.. with a variety of different price points.. I've order a handful from most every supplier I could find.. took one from each supplier apart to compare the parts.. BTW. I've also contacted each supplier before ordering to try to find out the manufacture or brand clock they are selling... no-one will say.. they say they aren't allowed to discuss that.. per their contract with the manufacturer.. so I just bought some clocks from every supplier online that I could find.. All seemed to be the same clock with different pricing points.. There is one supplier of them that JT mention to me awhile back.. but they only sell one or two sizes of clocks.. that aren't much bigger than the little ones and they get a really hefty price for them too..

I've been buying mine from Lesley's , but I had issues with them the last two times I ordered where the blades are back ordered and took around 6 weeks or better before they came in.. I ran out of Pegas about a month ago.. sure miss them.. but I'm trying to use up my several gross of FD blades before I place a new order.. I'll check out D & D for sure..

Yes the bearings do not spin while the saw is running..

Not normal for me to make the holes like this.. I had planned to use spiral blades.. when i started drilling so the holes were of proper sizing.. but after drilling some of these I realized that some of these were very close to each other and I didn't think the spirals would make the piece look right.. so I used a flat blade.. Plus.. for what it's worth.. The camera setting I use to take my photos shows way more detail than what the naked eye shows.. so.. these holes really aren't as noticeable in person.. I use the Micro setting (think that's what it's called ) for super close up detail.. sometimes that setting does more harm than good.. LOL This piece is only about 6.5 inch wide.. so the car itself is only 4.5 or so inch.. I shrunk the original design down from 22" wide.. design was originally for metal work on a CNC.. customer wanted smaller size. but was happy with what they got.. I doubt if I make it again I'll do it that small.. so really it was a mistake in judgement on my end.. Ideally it would be best to cut around 10" - 12 which is kind of bulky for a desk clock in my opinion anyway..

Same here.. and I had a lot left over from a special project I did.. that piece sat in my wood stash for about 6 years before I decided to make a cutting board out of it, LOL.. I sure wasn't cutting on the scroll saw with it again

I bought a new Grizzly bandsaw last year.. I've only made 4 simple bandsaw boxes and the guide bearings are already gritty and stiff.. they are also sealed bearings.. and for what it's worth.. the bad ones are the lower ones where all that sawdust lands.. I did pop the seals out and soaked them with wd-40 cleaned them up and re=greased them.. been working fine since then.. but really haven't used it much.. probably about the same amount as those 4 boxes is all.. but still still smooth running.. I question the grease they use from those China made bearings, LOL