kmmcrafts

According to their site the weight is 97 lbs.

Well, new orders coming in have changed my plan for Mondays cuts.. I now have one of these orders from my web site.. motorcycle clocks, 57 chevy clock, custom ordered fire truck clock with fire chief cutout at the bottom and the department name woodburned into the side. wedding hearts, and this deer love custom ordered to a 9" wide from etsy ..

I'm not a top feeder but always thought the bulls eye thing like Ray has on his new seyco saw would be helpful in knowing where to location of the hole in the table is... That said.. I am sure one could just draw with a straight edge some lines on their DeWalt or other saws with a Sharpe marker or maybe even a paint marker... sure it will wear off over time.. but those things have a lot of ink in them and new lines could be drawn or refreshed.. Machinist use a dye for metal work sometimes.. that stuff might last a little longer? anyway... just a thought I had for those that might also find it useful to have those lines.. Also.. I do insert my "new" blades in the top holder first but after that... I bottom feed, LOL

While not in the shop.. but rather in the house.. I will be cooking a batch of my homemade finish.. Beeswax / Mineral oil mixture.. I don't typically work in the shop during the weekend as that is time for family.. since kids and wife are off school / work. etc.. but fresh start on Monday morning I'll be cutting a newly designed wall clock.. just finished up a new Bass fish wall clock.. Maybe I'll post some pictures of it in the bragging section Monday.. I never think to show my work here.. Kevin

My personal experience at a tractor / car show doing crafts wasn't too bad.. but I really think that was a rare occasion.. Why? because being a car guy myself and involved in the car / tractor show community over the years.. While us car guys like our cars... and things related to cars.. many of us won't buy a home decor piece.. we are saving money for that next car part for our next project etc... that's almost like a scroll sawer buying another persons scroll work, LOL why buy it when we can make our own.. I find in my years of selling.. men aren't the best people to promote our work to.. I'd say about 98% of my men related scroll work sell to women that are purchasing as gifts for a male.. Who is the dominant gender at a car / tractor show? LOL I rarely will even market my products to the male gender.. rarely show men my scroll work.. only time I really bring it up is when I am at a gathering of some sort and someone ask what I do for work or hobbies etc.. then I get my phone out and show photos etc.. Many men would like to have some of the things I make.. but they aren't paying that price for it either.. most say.. I'd make my own for that kind of money.. Maybe just the type of men I hang out with which is the " do it yourselfers " type etc.. For instance.. I have a good friend into VW's I made a VW clock..he loves the clock I made.. but not so much so to pay me $50 for it..instead he goes out and buys a nice VW hub cap for $75 and drills a hole in it for a clock motor.. he is all proud of the clock he made... hardest part of making that was drilling the hole in the center, LOL But he is proud in that he made it himself.. I think it's a cool clock.. but didn't take much talent to make it.. and he has more money invested than just buying mine.. One of the wives in the VW club bought my clock for her husband for his birthday.. he loves the clock... so much so would he have bought it? probably not.. be he is very happy that he didn't get socks or underwear again and got something manly.. She is happy to have bought him something he really does like.. Anyway.. many men at the car shows are crafty in that... they build these cars,, they will built their own clock or whatever car related thing they want.. and they most likely aren't spending money on wall hangings.. They are after that certain part in the parts swap meet.. while they will "wow" your wood art wall hanging... they aren't buying it.. Just my two cents, Kevin

All of the pictures I had was lost in a computer crash... actually lost in a external hard drive crash, LOL.. I thought backing things up to a external hard drive was a smart and safe idea.. but those things crash too sometimes unfortunately.. So now I back up things on a external drive, zip drive, and a burned disc.. I figure if I loose all three of those at once...I wasn't meant to have those pictures LOL

Actually they should be shipped with no fluids, and tires.. then when they get a flat they should know how to change the tire.. when it leaks a fluid they should know what color fluid goes where.. and put in the right color blinker fluid I see both sides to the story.. but I feel all scroll sawers should know how to make the blade square and plumb etc.. same as with cars.. every driver should know how to check fluids , tire pressure, and change wiper blades, lights etc..

I think probably calling them would get you faster results.. my experience with the online thing is always been very slow..

Guess that depends upon how you want to look at it... Many people do not know how to tune up a scroll saw.. just my opinion here but.. if the person has to "set it up and tune it themselves" in the beginning ( per good instructions ) maybe when something does gets out of whack.. they might actually know how to fix it.. or at least check it out....rather than blaming it on the brand of saw or badmouthing a certain brand because of idiotic user error.. This list in the manual would also prevent a lot of customer service calls and returns.. Personally...I think a brand new $1500 saw should come with the mini square and a how to video of how to set up and tune it.. some of the things are in fact online on the Hawk web site videos.. but not all of these little adjustments are..but should be.. Edit to add.. The problem with this theory is that many of the saw manufacturers know how to build the saw.. but many of them also do not know how to tune a saw or use it for that matter.. so how would they know?

If I was looking at buying another used Hawk... I'd grab the serial number and call Bushton MFG ( Hawk ) and ask what year the saw is.. and whether it has the updated motor or not.. The older Hawks had some issues with the motor/speed controller and the manufacture of the motor is no longer in business.. so if you have an issue with it... well Bushton will hook you up with an updated motor etc.. but you have to take or ship the saw to them.. and the price for this back when I checked was $350 - 450 not including the labor if I remember correctly.. $350 isn't a bad price.. but if it's that older motor etc and you end up with either putting another $350 into it.. well it's either a boat anchor or a very expensive used saw, LOL

I've never yet bought a saw that didn't need tuned up new or used.. My DeWalt right out of the box was all out of wack.. I've always had to adjust those hex screws ( on the opposite side of the thumb screw ).. My Hawk 226 ultra was brand new still boxed.. and I had been having issues with the blade flexing during running.. but the tension was perfectly tight when saw was stopped.. it vibrated much more than my older Hawk 220 and the blade wobble was much like what your video showed.. and I kept breaking blades.. it turns out.. to be the little hex screw under the top arm that tightens against the tension lever handle.. on the under side.. I would have thought this would have been set by Hawk before they sent it out.. But I guess not.. I really think your saw just needs a good going through and tune everything up.. Like I said.. they aren't set up and ready to run right out of the box.. same thing with my bandsaw and table saw... so why would a scroll saw be any different.. If I was you I'd also check for that hex screw on the under side of the tension lever.. I've been chasing this since May when I bought my saw.. That hex ( set ) screw should be turned in until it hits the tension rod and then just a bit more of a turn.. You can then insert a blade and test the tension on the blade until it feels like the lever is locking down good.. Probably should read the instructions on doing this in my blade breaking thread from a week or so back.. as I am going off my memory.. which isn't all that great, LOL A lot of this stuff I feel like should be in the manuals.. I'm not sure what is in the newer saws manuals.. but these older saw manuals don't have a lot of info in them that they should have.. Same thing about the DeWalt manuals.. never recall seeing any mention of adjusting tuning the saw.. just how to assemble it.. and maintenance.. nothing about tuning the blade etc..

I agree with ROLF in that it looks like the tension isn't staying consistent throughout the blade stroke.. My 226 Ultra was doing this same type of thing and I kept breaking blades.. turned out to be I just needed to turn in the very small hex screw on the underside of the upper arm...just under the head where the cam lever is.. This was also creating a racket and excessive vibration at any speed much higher than half way up the dial.. I just did this adjustment about a week or two ago and so far the issue seems to be gone.. I do not know if the newer saws have this hex screw or not..

Hope you do well... I did a old tractor show several years ago.. was free to set up so I figured why not.. I had a few tractor and car things.. as well as just a little of this and that that the lady's might be interested in.. I did a few hundred at the one day event that I was set up at for only a couple hours.. I should have listened to the guy ( friend of mine ) that sets up the show and set up for the whole three day weekend.. but he finally talked me into it on the last day.. about half over and I run home and got my inventory..and a table..

Scott, really sorry to hear of the misfortune on your Hawk.. The new Ex is named King Industrial and can still be purchased from woodcraft.com they only offer a 16" or the 30" saw though.. but man the price is awesome on the new King models compared to the actual Excalibur saw.. the 30" one is less than a grand.. Since Scott is used to the way the DeWalt cuts.. the EX I would think be the same other than the strokes per minute are maxed on the King / Ex like saws to 1550 as the Dewalts are 1750.. Ex / King saws have adjustable forward back blade movement.. not as simple to do as the Hawk but really once one gets it where they like.. you would never need to adjust again really I've really been considering selling my two Hawks for a new King saw.. Love the Hawks for thin material.. but can't stand to cut on it on the thicker wood.. just not aggressive enough and makes me tend to push too hard..

Actually they are probably farther ahead by sending out a new one.. I've rebuilt mine a couple times now and the parts alone run close to $200 for a complete new bearing / sleeve replacement.. Just remember the fact that DeWalt doesn't sell just the bearings.. so they replace the whole part that has a bad bearing in it.. so that price bumps up to more than double.. they probably figure why replace the rocker arm for $75 and send the saw back to the customer to have him / her wear out the other rocker arm in another month.. for many of us shade tree DeWalt mechanics we can fix that rocker arm up with new bearings with better grease for about $15.. If DeWalt rebuilt the whole saw like I do by replacing all bearings and sleeves it would cost more than that new saw.. because they don't change just the bearings and sleeves with new grease.. they throw whole new assemblies into it.. I've thought about offering up a rebuild service for bearings and sleeves.. but I doubt many people would want to put $300+ or- into an old saw either.. like I said.. parts alone run close to $200.. while not always needing everything new replaced.. I find that the most troublesome parts are actually the front portion of the saw.. everything below the table where all the sawdust lands.. I have to redo those about 2 times to 1 time of everything else..

Throw something padded under the back legs.. see if it runs smoother.. then try the front legs as well..then all four.. Just to rule out that your stand is truly planted onto the floor firmly.. My 226 is terrible fussy about the floor.. and my floor is real smooth and done right by the pros when my shop was built just 5 years ago.. My 220 was also very fussy.. but I bought some different bolt on feet that was bigger diameter and padded on the bottom.. they was for furniture I believe to prevent scratching wood flooring.. anyway.. it's been running real smooth ever since.. Not DeWalt smooth but still would pass the nickle test.. I'm going to buy another set for my 226.. I can level it out and get it running nice and then someone bumps the saw just slightly and it's all out of wack again.. I don't know what they give you with the new saws for the feet.. but my new old 226 came with feet that was hard plastic on the bottom and they way the stand is formed on the bottom.. they don't seem to be perfectly bent in.. and those little hard rounded plastic feet are worthless to try to get planted firm to the floor.. then that plastic will slide so easy.. just a light bumping into the saw will change the angle of the feet.. I used a piece of the foam squares that you stand on for your feet from harbor freight.. and put under the legs of my 226 until I can get a bigger feet set like I have for my 220.. probably a rug or something would work just to test it and see if that helps on your saw as well.. Seems like they'd give you some rubber anti slip feet for these saws.. maybe they do now.. Edited: just reread and you mentioned side to side blade movement too? maybe you still have something wrong with this saw..

Yeah, I was pretty sure they had the roller needle / sleeve bearings.. just like the DeWalts do.. I know my bearings when I see them.. worked in a bearing supply shop for 2 years as a teenager in high school.. LOL back then most wasn't made in china though..

Yeah, I found that screw on my 26" saw and adjusted it.. no more blade breakage so far... but not on my older 220VS saw.. I'll look again but, I don't think I have one on the older saw..

This same basic question was asked just a day or so ago.. still right on the first page.. You can download a manual etc for the EX's online.. there is a link in the other message about 10 - 12 messages below this one..LOL But to really answer the question.. I don't think there is really much maintenance needed on these saws.. I would think if anything it would be something to do with the tension lever.. the bearings etc are just needle type bearings that have grease in them.. I suppose one could take the whole saw apart and add a little grease every couple years or something... required.. not really.. they expect you to run it until you have a bad / noisy bearing and the replace the whole part with new bearings.. same basic design as my DeWalt saw.. as far as the insides and the arms etc..

Maybe? I have a older Hawk with the barrel clamps.. and I do not see that set screw thing like you mentioned in my post the other day.. I see no way to adjust this on my old Hawk.. because I think it needs it too.. but I didn't see no set screw.. is there one in a different spot? I hadn't had a chance to really look it over good.. but there isn't anything there on the same spot as my newer Hawk has..

Yeah I am not much of one to go to crowded places because the bigger the crowd the more idiots there are like this.. LOL .. Over the years I've rarely purchased any lumber because my brother owns a big lumber mill.. and I've been lucky enough to grab what I need from him.. my issue with getting it from my brother is I have to stand there and pick it off the scrap belt before it goes into the chipper.. he has the workers chip anything under 36" long. Plus it's green and I have to wait for it to dry out.. plane it and he cuts in no meaningful order... ie not all one type of wood.. he may only cut cherry or oak a few times a month or maybe that is all he is cutting.. so it's time consuming for me to stand there when I am specifically looking for one type of wood.. I might have to stand there a week to get that cherry that I am low on.. I have asked him to have the workers save a few out for me and he has finally started listening to my request.. I do have quite a lot of lumber on hand but it all needs stickered and dried.. so hoping I won't need to buy lumber like this again.

So I went to the Wood Expo at LL Johnson Lumber in Charlotte Mi. yesterday.. they have this wood expo every year and always run some good deals on tools and lumber.. have several people doing demos etc. Anyway, I've never really purchased much at the expo so I am not certain if it works like this all the time or was the first time.. anyway they have small packs ( bundle packs ) of lumber typically around 30bft. + or - all of them are 3/4" boards and anywhere from 4ft - 7ft. long. People interested in packs was supposed to grab a salesman and the salesman was supposed to take off the tags and write sold too on the tag on the lumber.. there was shoppers doing this without permission.. there was almost some pushing / shoving in my opinion.. it was crazy.. I was looking at a bundle pack and had it picked up to look at the boards on the bottom side of the stack and some guy come up and took the tag off and wrote his name on it while I was holding it up in the air looking at it. LOL I ended up getting three bundles cherry, oak, and poplar. Anyway the sales guy writes out a ticket for you to take up and pay for your lumber then they move the lumber to a warehouse that you drive up to when you're ready to leave to pick up your order. After paying I browsed around for a couple hours.. When it was time to go I drive to the warehouse to get my lumber and low and behold.. one of my stacks was no where to be found.. they think someone stole it.. what the heck.. I know there are thieves in every corner of this earth.. but always thought that in the woodworking communities clubs etc most everyone was good people.. Iggy, it wasn't you that stole my Poplar bundle was it.. Just joking I'm pretty sure Iggy is a much better person than that.. LOL I bought a very small pack.. I can't even remember how many bdft. it was.. I just know it had some nice wide boards on it and the price was $36.. I want to say it was 27bdft. anyway whoever took it got it for free but in return for my inconvenience the salesman gave me a 44bdft bundle one. Now I wish they would have stole the others too. Anyway, I am not sure I will go to this event for the lumber prices again.. just too much craziness going on for my taste.. Sales guy did say the second day it's not quite so crazy.. I may go back today just to see whats going on.. Maybe buy more lumber.. but not it its a madhouse again. Would have bought much more than I did.. but.. I'd had enough of idiots steeling the tags etc off the boards your inspecting.. LOL

Have fun cutting those.. looks like fun to me..

How did you go about measuring that? I ask because I have the older Hawk with the barrel clamps.. I'm pretty sure mine has much more movement than that.. My newer Hawk I have two positions for the lower blade holder to fit into.. one position is for a more aggressive ( faster ) cutting and the other is more for slower higher detailed pieces.. I would think all of the older Hawks should have the same amount of movement.. I would also think that if your saw was worn so much so that would make this movement much more than how it was designed for it would be very noisy running and also seems like you'd have more issues than just the forward back motion of the blade..

I put on the shelf liner on the top board.. then use clear packing tape to tape the stack together.. Then I stick the pattern down..