kmmcrafts

Don't say that.. I just ran out of it today..

Well so far today I cut out 3 clock orders on the Hawk with no blades breaking.. not quite sure what adjustment I made that actually fixed it since I did a once over on a complete tune up of the saw.. I am thinking the culprit was the little allen screw under the head of the top arm as Scrollsaw703 mentioned.. as the tension lever itself feels like it locks down better.. Now that the orders are cut.. back to putting the Jeep back together..

Well I have paint on the Jeep now so maybe I will be able to get back at my saw soon.. Here are some pictures of my process on the Jeep for anyone that might have an interest.. Jeep had some rust on the bottom of the drivers door where I made the small patch.. and the passenger side door I cut the whole bottom off and made a new one to replace it.. rest was just lots of dents.. replaced front fender, bumper cover, and grill ( parts painted off the Jeep and need to be installed yet. ).. Anyway.. enjoy the pictures of another type of hobby I enjoy doing, LOL This is a list of the pictures in order of what was going on here.. 1. Driver door rust hole 2 Cut rust area out 3 homemade patch in place ( sorry no welded photo) 4 passenger door cut off 5 patch test fitting 6 Painted drivers side 7 Painted Passenger side ( only painted the lower portion of the doors ) 8 Front fender shine..LOL Sorry if this is sort of off topic.. Just thought I share other works I do.. Now.. back to working on the Hawk for a day or so so the paint on this can cure good before re-assembly starts.. BTW.. FYI.. Body shop here wanted $3700 to do this job.. I'll have just over a weeks work into this.. and about $700 in parts & supplies..

Thanks every one for the comments.. That's what I do now that I have my Hawk.. Love being able to have some pre-loaded blades of different sizes ect too.. I use a Sharpe and mark the bottom of my holder what size the blade is for easy reference.. The Ford was cut on my Dw788 before the Hawks showed up..

Pattern isn't really a scroll saw pattern.. I purchased the pattern from a artist that does designs for CNC metal work.. Many scroll sawers think you have to have a "scroll saw pattern" doing a search for DXF files will bring up a whole new view of designs that are typically used for CNC plasma cutters for metal art.. many of them don't need any modifications whatsoever to be used for scroll work. This design was just the truck.. I added the small area below the wheels so I could mount it to a base.. and of coarse the clock portion on the back.. Design is from DarensGraphix on etsy.. DarensGraphix

Well, my saw isn't really all that new.. the newest one is the Ultra which is 1998.. My 220 is more of the vintage of your 216 I think.. as I have the old style round barrel style clamps in that 220..

I prefer flat blades.. but I can cut most anything with either one.. I always called them cheater blades.. always thought there was no skill needed to use them.. apparently I am wrong though.. because I see many post like this.. and not just for spiral blades either.. I know people that can't stand flat blades.. guess I am gifted in that I can use either or.. This entire truck was cut using a 0/1 spiral blade.. I inserted it to do the veining.. but was too lazy to change to a flat blade to cut the rest of it out..

Both my 220 VS and 226 Ultra have the holes.. I don't know for sure but my 220 came with the lamp inserted into the bigger hole.. so that is how I put it on my 226.. I think it's what they are for.. however I could be wrong too..

There is a video on their web site that says something to the effect VS & Ultra series VRS the BM series.. they probably explain it best in the video.. I've always found it odd there is no mention of the G4 saw ( that I recall of ).. The ultra has a lower blade adjustment for aggressiveness.. so does the BM's.. but the BM's have variable adjusting.. where as the Ultra just has two positions to put your blade holder into.. Also the lower table angle and or the lower arm was redesigned and on the BM series the arm protrudes through the table angling mechanism where as on the older Ultras the arm is behind the table angle so I have to reach in behind the angle mechanism to change my blade etc.. They do have different motors as well.. otherwise.. same basic saw.. I also have a old 220VS that I bought last year Oct.. took me forever not to break blades on this saw too.. I'm sure it's just a learning curve for my ultra.. My 220VS is from 1993.. and my ultra is from 1998 according to Hawk.. Really like to sell both of my Hawks .. and get the new BM series saw.. But people aren't really paying much for the older Hawks.. while I only gave $100 for my 220VS and $400 for my 26 Ultra.. I'd probably be pressed to get much more than that from them.

I agree with RJ.. While I have done some real small shows.. I've never really done anything spectacular. I've learned quite a lot from this video and appreciate you taking the time to do this...

Thanks for the info on the small allen screw under the top arm.. I will look into that.. I have notice that the blades don't break as much if I run the saw at slower speeds.. I feel like maybe it is something with the tension being lost at the higher speeds.. makes me wonder if I need to adjust the screw you had mentioned.. Shouldn't be because of anything worn.. as the saw was brand new still boxed when I got it back in May.. I've only cut a small amount of items on it.. maybe at best 5 projects..

I haven't actually had a chance to run it this week.. I did a lot of tuning it etc on Sunday afternoon.. and run it just a little.. but haven't had a real test yet.. Been really busy this week and probably next week too.. I picked up a real nice low mileage Jeep Liberty real cheap because it was vandalized.. for my daughter to drive back and forth to college. Jeep was vandalized ( keyed down the sides egged or some kind of acid to mess up the paint beat on with something maybe a hammer.. broken mirror front and rear brake / turn signals ).. Believe it was the guys ex girl that he bought the Jeep for her to drive.. So I'm on body shop duty this week .. had to replace a door skin.. pull several dents replace fender etc.. got it almost ready for paint.. hoping to shoot the paint at least by Friday so that next week I can start putting the doors, fenders etc back on it and then do a check of breaks, oil change , and trans service etc.. gotta make sure it's going to be safe and ready for my daughter to drive... college is 45 min drive each way.. but the good thing is.. most of it is online.. so she only goes one day a week for lab work.. Anyway.. back on topic.. I hope to get a good test on the Hawk next week..

I use mineral oil on almost all my projects.. BUT.. I do it different that most would do.. it is a little tedious to get into the fretwork but it gives an awesome finish that shines for a very long time.. I don't have to wait for it to dry so when a order comes in I can make the project and mail it out almost immediately after applying the finish.. I cook up mineral oil mixed with real beeswax.. after this cools down it turns into a loose paste wax texture.. I use an acid brush to apply to the piece.. let it set for maybe an hour or two.. overnight if I am not rushed.. then I use a hairdryer to melt down the extra wax etc. that is left behind and wipe off excess with paper towel.. The wax melting into the pours of the wood gives the wood a nice shine and silky smooth feel to the wood.. I sometimes use Danish oil... but it take several days to dry out and not stink.. and I've had it do the bleed thing as Duke describes plus I've had it dry with spots of shiny clear as if some one put drops of clear coat on it when I wasn't looking LOL.. So while it is sort of time consuming to apply the mineral oil / beeswax mixture.. I've never had an issue with it with any customers.. can't say that about the Danish oil.. had customers complain of a strong smell when opening the box.. after a week of drying.. and about the droplets of clear look..

Depends I suppose on what you want or mean by upgrades... You can send your saw to Hawk ( Bushton ) and they will upgrade the motor, speed controller and rebuild whatever is worn.. so you basically get a new (old) saw... however in my opinion.. you'd be far better ahead to just get a new Hawk with the whole new design.. I don't think they can upgrade the arms as the newer saws arms I believe are longer because the newer models the arm comes out past the angle adjustment... I think the cost for a rebuild etc.. is right around $350 - 400.. well I know the motor and controller is 350+ labor not sure about the shipping cost to ship to them and if the price include them shipping it back.. I looked into this because I found an old Hawk that had a older style motor.. with issues... many older ones did have some motor / controller issues.. Best advise is to get theserial numbers and call Bushton.. they can tell you the year of the saw and what motor it has etc.. while on the phone ask about upgrades.. but I don't think they do much for upgrades.. just basically replace motors and worn parts..

You can buy the same saw in the USA at woodcraft.. called the King scroll saw.. Though they do not have the 21" model.. which I personally believe was the most popular one sold.. only the 16 and 30 inch saws are available under the King name..

I started out with a saw (Delta 16" 40-560 2 speed type 2 ) that my father had bought new after he retired in about 1988 and plum wore it out.. he had replaced it with another Delta 16" 40-540 Variable speed in 1997.. One day in about 1999 while paying him a visit and him showing me all the things he had made that week.. I asked about his old saw.. if I could take it and play around with it.. he was delighted that I had finally picked up some interest in maybe sawing.. and said sure.. long story but I brought it home with no blades or wood.. sat on a bench for probably a year.. and finally I picked up some blades.. after asking dad what blades he used most.. He cut a lot of thin stuff so he told me 0/2 Olsen blades.. Put the blades I picked up in the saw and tried cutting a 2x4 in half LOL.. needless to say the saw went so slow and I was like.. no way do I have the penitence to do this stuff.. LOL.. Under the bench the saw went for most of about 6 years... One cold snowy November night back in 2006 I went out and got the saw.. brought it into the house.. found a pattern online.. ( didn't know about spray glues etc.. ) taped the pattern to some 3/8 plywood I had scraps from a project.. Wish I would had known more and got interested in it sooner while dad was still alive ( he passed in March of 2003 ) been sawing ever since.. I hunted all around the internet and while most places didn't have parts for the saw.. I found a place that had a bunch of NOS delta parts for a warehouse they bought out.. Was able to get all I needed to rebuild dads old saw In late fall of 07 I bought a new Craftsman 16 in saw.. that saw was junk right out of the box.. took it back before ever even trying to cut on it.. Early winter picked up a refurbished Dremel 1800 rebuilt it two times so in 09 bought a Dewalt.. also about 2011 I bought a used Delta SS350 as a back-up saw.. ended up selling the Dremel and the ss350 as I liked my Dewalt best.. Then last year in Oct. I bought my first used Hawk 220VS ..This spring I bought my Hawk 226 Ultra.. Most expensive saw I bought was my Dewalt.. at $429 with stand and light.. rebuilt that dewalt once and it needs it again.. Out of all the saws.. The Dewalt and Hawks was my favorite.. If I could only have one saw.. I'd sell them all and get a new Hawk.. but of the ones I have now.. I'd keep the Hawk 226 Ultra.. while I am still trying to learn the saw and get used to the blade clamp / tension without breaking blades.. I find that it's the most enjoyable saw to cut on.. BTW.. I still have Dads old saw.. The other saw he had went to my step brothers and all his pattern books etc.. and they don't use it but never would let me have the stuff either.. He had stacks and stacks of magazines and pattern books..

I wouldn't count them all as being the $25 ones.. I believe the kids puzzles he sells for $10.. But still a decent day in my opinion..

Okay, I was inserting the blade correct.. after reading JT's second post.. However I do need to adjust that rear rod and tension lever.. I had been doing it right I believe.. but at some point something changed back there at that rod and changed the length of that rod as well as my tension.. I am guessing now after reading that really nothing changed other that either the wedge or that bottom barrel thing got mis-aligned and then I started fooling with the tension and rod length.. Now I need to go out and adjust it as it should be.. and see if my blades keep breaking still.

Maybe all this time.. I've been installing the blade wrong.. I was under the impression that the top arm comes down and you insert the blade to that back of the blade chuck and lower the arm until the top of the blade hits a little pin or blade stop thing.. but my upper arm on either saw will lower down farther than where that pin is.. But the way you explained it... it sounds like I am to put the back of the blade up against that pin.. that I had been using as a blade stop?? I will check that out tomorrow morning.. Because I had been installing the blade in my 220 this way too.. and at one point had a lot of blade breakage etc.. as well.. but on that saw.. most times I can run it until the blade is about dull anyway.. Though I don't recall ever breaking any blades on my dewalt.. dull or otherwise.. pretty sure it's user error...

I know what you are talking about.. but sadly I don't think this is the issue i am having.. I've done some more checking one thing at a time.. sooner or later I suppose I will figure it all out.. I have noticed that I don't seem to be breaking the blades nearly as bad when running the saw at slower speeds..

Awesome, Maybe tomorrow will pan out better than you think..

While I have had my Hawk Ultra 226 since May.. I really haven't had that many opportunities to "really" use it much.. I've been using the 220VS or the DeWalt due to being somewhat rushed to get a order done etc.. I've had blade breakage issues with it.. and pretty sure it was just user error.. Blades are breaking in the middle of the wood..typically down near the project I'm cutting.. and a few times it's been an inch or so from the top.. but most times it's a inch or so near the bottom.. I been looking at the ends of the blades for marks of the clamps slipping.. Don't notice anything there.. I really think my tension is too tight... BUT... If I loosen it much at all the saw clatters as if the blade is too loose.. I don't get it.. So in playing around with this I've also noticed that the distance has changed between the lower arm and the upper arm... as the way it was set up ( saw was new in the box when I got it ) out of the box.. I had to lift up the upper arm to get the blade in and underneath that stop pin in the clamp.. now the blade is right at the correct height to just lower the arm and tighten the thumb screw.. I am assuming the lock-nut on that rod at the back of the saw has been spinning.. I also assume that is what the nut is for? Maybe its not? Maybe I need to give it some slack.. My old 220VS has a lot of slack in that and I have to lift up the arm to get the blade in as well much like the 226 was set up when I first got it.. Anyway, I am wondering if that lock nut on that rod is for adjusting this.. or is that the cause of my blades breaking.. I looked in my manual and I didn't see anything pertaining to that lock nut.. Only thing I see in it as far as tension was to look at the cam lever and set it at 11- 1 pm clock position.. nothing is mentioned about that rod or the lock nut.. I'm kind of wondering if I need to loosen this lock nut down out of the way and then loosen the tension from the blade.. I think it's too tight but like I said.. getting noise when i loosen it...maybe the noise is something to do with that lock nut.. Going to go out in a bit and give it a try.. but still wondering if the lock nut is for adjusting the distance between the arms.. I know it's much nicer cutting when the arms are right at the right distance apart so the blade just slips into position.. Thanks for any comments or suggestions..

Never used those.. but when I first started scroll sawing back in 06' I bought some scroll sanders.. they was basically a emery cloth with flat plastic ends that would fit into the blade clamps of my old dremel 1800 scroll saw clamps.. that said... I never did use them all up.. and one time I needed to sand something and was going to use them in my DeWalt.. but the clamps on my DW 788 wasn't spread apart enough for those plastic ends to fit.. Seems like I did try to use like a fingernail file ( emery board ) in my saw once too and it wouldn't fit

Congrats on the new saw!! I think you'll be very happy with it.. Kevin

Not too sure what you mean by noise.. or I should say type of noise... Sawing noise or Scroll saw noise? DeWalts are known to start getting noisy when they start getting worn out... typically a rattle or clattering sound... They way you describe it.. it's as if it is the ( sawing ) "cutting sound " I have cut many different types of wood and thickness of wood.. Some types of wood are just louder when cutting that other types of wood.. I once cut a certain type of pine.. not sure what it was now or the types of blades i used.. but the cutting was VERY loud...almost that screeching sound of fingernails on a chalk board drive me crazy kind of sound.. I switch out to a different type blade that made it much quieter.. just the other day I had this with a Pegas #5 cutting cherry.. sound got quieter when I turned the saw speed up considerably.. So.. with all that said.. you might try messing with different blades or even toy with the saws speed dial to see if you can get it to change sounds..