kmmcrafts

I'd go with clockparts.com and choose the USA made motors.. I believe you get to pick a pair of hands with each motor you purchase.. the face itself will be extra though.. but not much money

Just draw a straight line on your wood and stay on the line when cutting it.. No seriously that is what I did before I had a table saw or bandsaw.. it can be done but you need to take your time.. don't push the wood through just let the blade do the cutting. If you have access to a belt sander or even just a long sanding board you could always get it close then sand it to be the size you need.. But in all honesty.. you're better off with a table saw

Thank you for the tip on the wiring.. I sort of wondered if they would all be the same..and I didn't think about using a meter to check.. good advice.. I did already order a pot on ebay.. just came in the mail today.. and yes I ordered the linear type.... haven't messed with it yet though.. today was break job day on the wife's van.. new hoses calipers rotors and of coarse pads..on all four corners.. If I can still move tomorrow ( getting too old to crawl around under the cars now days lol) I may mess with changing the pot.. though I do have another clock order to make so probably should do that first..

Yeah, those made in China clocks.. they are as useful as the package they come in.... for the clock motors.. I buy USA made ones.. they can be bought at Clockparts.com USA made ones have a red colored switch on the back to turn them on / off with.. rest are China made ones.. that don't keep time.. I haven't found any other USA made supplier of these other than clockparts.com.. If you're stuck on a bigger insert you can buy a USA ( no thread ) movement and take them apart to changed the China motor for the USA motor.. Clock Movements I buy my little inserts.. 1-7/16 from woodworkingparts.com woodworkingparts

Yeah, what type and size? I sell a lot of clocks.. I've done a lot of research on clocks over the last couple of years.. and quite frankly.. I am discontinuing any inserts other than those little ones with the Seiko watch motor any of those bigger inserts are made in China.. and almost all of the 50+ customers have messaged me with complaints of them either not keeping time or just plain stopped working... even the so called USA made clocks are the same China motor but assembled in the USA.. same dam clock with a wide variety of pricing.. anything other than the little motors.. I am redesigning my patterns to make them accept just the motor and hands.. This is my experience with clocks.. Oh.. and from my experience on the little 1-7/16" inserts.. most suppliers are selling the same clock.. with a variety of different price points.. I've order a handful from most every supplier I could find.. took one from each supplier apart to compare the parts.. BTW. I've also contacted each supplier before ordering to try to find out the manufacture or brand clock they are selling... no-one will say.. they say they aren't allowed to discuss that.. per their contract with the manufacturer.. so I just bought some clocks from every supplier online that I could find.. All seemed to be the same clock with different pricing points.. There is one supplier of them that JT mention to me awhile back.. but they only sell one or two sizes of clocks.. that aren't much bigger than the little ones and they get a really hefty price for them too..

I've been buying mine from Lesley's , but I had issues with them the last two times I ordered where the blades are back ordered and took around 6 weeks or better before they came in.. I ran out of Pegas about a month ago.. sure miss them.. but I'm trying to use up my several gross of FD blades before I place a new order.. I'll check out D & D for sure..

Yes the bearings do not spin while the saw is running..

Not normal for me to make the holes like this.. I had planned to use spiral blades.. when i started drilling so the holes were of proper sizing.. but after drilling some of these I realized that some of these were very close to each other and I didn't think the spirals would make the piece look right.. so I used a flat blade.. Plus.. for what it's worth.. The camera setting I use to take my photos shows way more detail than what the naked eye shows.. so.. these holes really aren't as noticeable in person.. I use the Micro setting (think that's what it's called ) for super close up detail.. sometimes that setting does more harm than good.. LOL This piece is only about 6.5 inch wide.. so the car itself is only 4.5 or so inch.. I shrunk the original design down from 22" wide.. design was originally for metal work on a CNC.. customer wanted smaller size. but was happy with what they got.. I doubt if I make it again I'll do it that small.. so really it was a mistake in judgement on my end.. Ideally it would be best to cut around 10" - 12 which is kind of bulky for a desk clock in my opinion anyway..

Same here.. and I had a lot left over from a special project I did.. that piece sat in my wood stash for about 6 years before I decided to make a cutting board out of it, LOL.. I sure wasn't cutting on the scroll saw with it again

I bought a new Grizzly bandsaw last year.. I've only made 4 simple bandsaw boxes and the guide bearings are already gritty and stiff.. they are also sealed bearings.. and for what it's worth.. the bad ones are the lower ones where all that sawdust lands.. I did pop the seals out and soaked them with wd-40 cleaned them up and re=greased them.. been working fine since then.. but really haven't used it much.. probably about the same amount as those 4 boxes is all.. but still still smooth running.. I question the grease they use from those China made bearings, LOL

While I also have been around wood equipment most all my life and have the same experience as you with the larger equipment.. that said though.. most of the larger equipment also had much larger bearing as well as sealed bearings.. As for the saws with open bearings.. They are very small bearings.. and not really much room for much grease... My issue with the DeWalt is I believe that the real fine dust gets into the bearings and soak up any of the liquid portion of the grease.. every time I rebuild that saw.. when i pull out the bearings / sleeves.. there is sawdust and grease mixture which created a real thick dried out paste almost so to speak.. I've taken the front portion of the saw apart several times in the 10 years I've owned it.. while I've only taken the back portion apart only once.. and never even replaced the bearings.. just cleaned them up and added synthetic grease.. Now the saw is finally getting noisy in the back part of the saw so it needs to be taken apart.. I'm hoping to get by with it at least through the busy part of this year.. It's quite a job ( not horrible but time consuming ) to do on these..

Sort of both.. LOL The car design is from DarensGraphix.. His designs aren't really scroll saw patterns but are DXF formatted for CNC metal work.. They just so happen to work for scroll work too... I modified it adding the lower part below the "Cuda" and then made the area for the clock.. I do some of my own design work too but typically buy it if I can find a design to make work for my needs. Also have DonR do many of my car items..

First of all.. let me say no apologies needed.. everyone gets their feather in a ruffle every now and again.. If anything the way my wording in my post is worded.. I should be the one to apologize.. You hit the nail on the head here.. which brings me to this point... Why not sell a saw that "anybody" can set up and run.. Not trying to bash Hawk.. I love mine.. however.. mine is a pre-Bushton machine.. I feel like they are just simply too busy or to rushed to get these saws out the door.. and not REALLY paying attention to the details of the saws or tuning them.. yeah they may need some light tweaking once put together at the customers place.. but I feel Iggys situation could have been avoided.. Ok one bad saw... but two got shipped to him? and he had to work on it after that..

I just mailed this out.. custom ordered as a bosses day gift.. Lucky Boss.. Now.. onto the next custom order.. a 67 Chevelle clock..

I think this is the same saw that I had years ago.. and I come across this doing a simple search of the make and model added manual to the end of the search.. If I remember correctly.. I do think it will take plain end blades.. but don't quote me on that.. I only had mine a very short time back around 2005.. I owned it for a whole 3 weeks... wasn't a bad saw either.. I just had my wheel and deal hat on back then.. LOL Manual

Very nice job with both the pattern and the cutting.. I always liked those little cars.. My friend in high school had one that he dropped a small block Chevy 350 into the engine bay.. LOL Talk about a scooting little car, LOL.... My son says that is the car he'd want if he was to own a car.. He's into the Dodge First Gen Cummins trucks though.. him and brother in law built a 750Hp twin turbo 94 cummins truck to race at the track and now they are building a Nova with a Cummins. LOL.. To be young and have some spending money again

I suppose what I said sounded degrading .. and that isn't how it was intended.. My point was supposed to mean that the old farm boy has so much knowledge of machines etc.. and common sense that he's not thinkin about the the average joe that might get their hands on one of there saws.. seriously the guy that does things everyday it's common everyday sense to him.. and many times the average joe has no idea how to put it together... case in point.. I've seen complaints about the outdated stickers on the new Hawks.. and outdated instruction manual.. a farm boy probably ain't even going to need those instructions or the dumb stickers.. a farm boy will set it up and run it without even thinkin about it.. I know that's how I set up both of mine.. While I might not be a farmer.. I've been around machinery all my life.. and farms.. because every one of my neighbors is a farmer.. have helped them fix equipment.. have restored some old tractors and machinery for them.. been around sawmills and logging equipment all my life.. running skidders at the age of 13.. helping my older brother with the sawmill.. They are too busy to set up those set screws in the center of the blade clamps.. probably figuring the guy using it will adjust it..

I am curious what is the difference between a G4 and say my old ultra or for that matter the newer BM series? I do know of the lower arm protrudes through the adjustment mechanism on the G4.. I believe the blade clamps and many other things are the same design as my Ultra.. I was always under the impression that the BM was basically the same as the G4 other than the ability to adjust the blade movement.. I've never seen a Hegner in person.. One saw that I hope to one day find a deal on and get some first hand experience with.. I've read many others that love them.. while also several say stay away if you do fretwork.. I generally take others opinions with a grain of salt.. because like I've said many times.. sometimes it's just the way the saw was set up.. or the user doesn't know how to correctly work the blade clamps and tension.. many people...including myself.. get used to running one particular saw.. then anything else they try just isn't comfortable for them to use.. due to blade aggression SPM etc etc.. or even the way the saw sets.. One thing I love about my DW788 is the stand.. I have a higher stool to set on..I set my foot switch on the lower part of the stand.. tilt the stand forward.. etc.. very comfy to set at.. My Hawks.. I have to sit on the edge of the stool or stand.. to reach a foot peddle or build a riser block for the peddle.. then I find I have an issue with where to put my legs and feet.. always feel crunch between my stool and the saw stand, LOL Yeah there is things to do to adjust to.. You bring up many good points about all the slots ect with the Hawks.. and I do agree.. one shouldn't have to fuss with any of these things.. I can see having to tune the clamp set screws and things like that.. but tweaking the whole saw is a bit much for most people.. and really shouldn't have the need to do all that anyway..

Yeah, I sort of think they just throw in the set screws wherever.. I bought 4 barrel style clamps for my older Hawk last year.. All 4 of them.. the set screw was not centered.. nor was any of those 4 positioned somewhat the same as each other.. which told me they just put them in.. Not really a big deal to me.. because I tune everything I get new or old.. anyway.. or at least check it.. Something to consider I suppose if you are looking to buy a Hawk I guess... odds might be... it's not going to be squared and tuned right out of the box.. That said.. Dewalt and many of the other brands probably have a automated machine install those screws at a set distance.. Hawk is just a bunch of farm boys putting them together.. Suppose any one of these guys ever runs a scroll saw?..while they designed the saw and I might add.. I think it's pretty well designed.. and improved over the older Hawks.. I think they somewhat lack in the setting up and testing / running the machine before it's shipped out.... That said.. while my DeWalt was set up closest to being tuned right out of the box .. but it was still off some..with some tweaking I had it running smoother than what it was.. That's just the kind of person I am though.. If I bought a brand new car.. I'd be out there tuning it to my liking.. and driving style.. I realize though.. not everyone is like that and would expect it to be perfect out of the box..

This reminds me of the old high school days.. where all us kids was always messing with our cars.. trying to gain that little extra horse power.. LOL .. But one thing for sure.. if you don't mess with them.. you won't learn much about the machine or it's capabilities.. when you know a machine inside out.. when a problem arises.. you can almost always pinpoint the problem.. Us old mechanics can tune a car like many tune a guitar.. "By Ear" .. who needs a dang timing light.. and those marks on the dampener pulley..

I cut mostly 1/2 - 3/4" Cherry.. and I like to cut fast.. I like my saw speed to be fast.. normally run my DW788 if not full speed.. just under full speed.. I do burn sometimes while using the FDUR blades.. Typically use a #3 or 5.. Olsen PG blades don't seem to burn as bad for me but still do at times.. so over the years I've been forced to slow down... that is until I tried the Pegas MG.. blades.. I also find that many times where I normally used a #5 blade.. I can cut with a 3 with a Pegas.. Not always.. but many times I can cut just as fast or faster with a 3 pegas as I can a #5 in other brands.. They last a really long time too..

Iggy, I sure hope you have the issues resolved.. and it turns out to be your favorite saw.. I've felt bad about the experiences you'd had with your saw and since I was one of the ones steering you toward getting a Hawk.. I sort of felt somewhat responsible for the decision you made.. Had I known you'd have all these issues.. I'd of never suggested the Hawk to you.. So I truly hope this works out for you..

Part of the process.. I typically pre-sand and cut plywood blanks to 7.5" x 11" and then apply shelf liner to one.. then stack 4-6 below the top one and tape them together along the sides and ends.. then apply my self adhesive ( full sheet shipping labels ) printed pattern to that.. then pre-drill the holes and cut away..

Really nice work!! I think I might get brave and try one of these someday.. Just curious.. how does cutting those compare to wood? in terms of speed.. You said you run the saw 3/4 speed.. I'd think the coin would build some heat..LOL always figured you'd cut them very slow..

That's awesome! I also bought a new one (still boxed ) 1998 back in May this year.. Took me some time to get used to the clamps and getting the correct tension etc.. You did better than I did as I gave $400 for mine.. Gave $100 for my older model (1993) used lightly.. that one works OK but the motor doesn't give the faster 1700 spm... you wouldn't think that extra 200 spm would be that big of a deal but it does for me anyway..