kmmcrafts

This is what a few stacks (150) ornaments looks like and.. well the sawdust was vacuumed a couple times throughout the day.. so this is maybe 1/2 that amount of sawdust on my DeWalt ( I always try to keep it clean.. normally don't let it get built up that much but was in a hurry as a custom order to do as well). 150 ornaments isn't bad for one days work but can't say that's the best I've done either.. These are for a wholesale order so unfortunately I'm only getting $10 each for them.. I typically get 16 each.. Now I need to get back to work.. sanding and finishing.. and another order just came in.. like I said before.. I start getting busy between Sept - end of Oct.. then it slams me with work from Nov. through the year and a couple weeks into Jan. I threw in a shot of my little corner where I work the most.. rest of shop is bandsaw, table saw, planner, jointer, spindle sander, belt sander etc ect.. LOL but this is scroll saw forum so I'll stick to that for now..

Yes, and this is where the Ex- type saw will last longer before needing bearing attention.. On a dewalt.. the sawdust falls through the hole in the table and lands directly onto the lower rocker assembly.. as well as the older Ex's.. but the newer Ex's have the little dust port.. that I would think even not hooked up to a collection system still will catch much of that dust before landing onto the bearings and rocker assembly.. On the saw like Hotshot's that has that shielded bearing.. a shielded bearing is just that.. shielded.. it's not really and open bearing like a DeWalt, Ex type saw.. but.. this bearing in encased into the arm and isn't necessarily exposed to a large amount of dust anyway at the back of the saw.. between the shield ( which by the way sort of acts as a shield to keep dirt etc out but not totally sealed either ) and the saw body / arm etc.. I really doubt much get's into the bearing if any anyway.. At the front of the Hawk.. where the dust is more than likely to get into a bearing.. Hawk used sealed bearings. To rebuild a Hawk saw's bearing I believe you'd need about $20 at best.. to replace the 4 bearings.. while a dewalt saw you need sleeves and bearings.. which run $175 to replace the 25 bearings and 25 sleeves.. I think if one had parts on hand etc.. one could do the job in about 30 min. on a Hawk.. Probably if you was real good and quick.. one could do the DeWalt in about 1-1/2 - 2 hours..

This can be done on sealed bearings too... however it cannot be done on shielded bearings very easily such as the one hotshot has in his saw. I'm not here to start a saw brand war.. I like my DeWalt just the same as I like my Hawks.. I've tested or owned about every popular brand name saw there is other than a Hegner, and the Sakura (sp).. and I'm sure there are a few I don't know about.. I like the DeWalt and EX types saws.. I think they could be better quality made.. but then.. so can a Hawk.. While they are top of the line saws.. everyone can and will find a weak point in any saw.. or something to complain about.. A DeWalt really is a good bang for your buck saw.. while many people say it's a low to mid range saw.. I consider it better than that really myself.. because it's essentially the same durable design as a EX that everyone raves about.. while the EX just has a few better features.. in some's opinion.. features are nice but they don't enhance the longevity or durability of the saw itself.. while EX may have used a higher end bearing with better grease so they run smoother? I don't know that.. maybe why the King saw is so cheap.. anyone mechanical can just buy a DeWalt and when the bearings need done.. buy the upgraded ones and use your own high end grease like I've done.. Anyway, back on topic.. I'm taking my control box to a local electric motor shop this morning to have them look / tell me what Potentiometer will best suite my needs.. since the same part number offers two different watt Potentiometers.. with some luck they will hook me up with one.. (keeping business local if I can ) Then maybe after I am done there I'll stop by my brothers sawmill and see if I can get some photos / videos for you all to see that operation..

I'm not too mad because I kind of expect things like this with a saw like I purchased.. while my saw was new in the box when I got it.. it is a old 1998 saw.. if that bearing was actually greased.. it may have dried up just setting all those years.. as grease does dry out.. and.. I feel even if I have to replace every bearing in the saw... I only paid $400 for it.. and I've made about $2000 worth of product to sell on this particular saw already.. I understand what you mean though.. but on the other hand.. you have to take into account.. most all bearings are made in china now.. and quality of bearings have drastically declined over the years..and it's not like Hawk made the bearings.. they just buy them from a bearing supplier.. at least they have the brains enough to use a sealed bearing.. unlike the dewalt, ex, jet, and seyco type saws..that use a open roller bearings.

I have another Hawk and a DeWalt to use.. so no need to really rush.. don't see any reason I need to replace the whole assembly for a bearing that only cost $3 - 7 depending on how good of one I want.. I took the box apart to find some markings on the Potentiometer.. I google the numbers but I come up with different ones.. one shows 1/5 watt and one shows 1/2 watt.. I don't know much about these so any advice on what to buy would be great.. Only numbers I could find on mine was B1K made by Alpha.. I don't see any other part number or markings etc on it..

They are somewhat flimsy.. while I never had any issue with them wanting to tip over etc.. they are cheap made.. I personally don't put a lot of anything real big bulky in the top end of the them.. leave the heavier items down low.. don't expect to make a drawer hold 100# LOL .. if you want stout.. do like I do with my portraits.. use a heavy made steel file cabinet for the smaller sized (8 x 10 ) portraits.. then you can even use dividers and categorize them.. while I know you don't do portrait work ( me either much anymore ) but it would still work in the same fashion as these plastic drawers..

Yes, I believe the bolt is called a shoulder bolt.. LOL Thank you! Some bearing sizes are oddball and only a couple manufactures even sell them anymore.. so in some cases.. yes you can buy better quality and some cases.. no.. just depends upon what bearing one needs.. In my case.. yes... I can get a high end bearing.. I just need to get the connecting rod bolt out of the motor end of the connecting rod so I can put it into a press as the bearing is pressed in.. However in my case too.. If I cannot get the bolt out of the motor end.. I can take the rest of the saw apart ( table lower arm etc ) to get room and I can press the bearing out using a automotive ball joint press tool or even a C- clamp would probably work to press this out right on the saw.. would have to be very careful not to put too much force on it and damage the connecting rod or the motor itself though.. rather get the bolt out and work on the workbench.. LOL

I'm wondering what the price of the 21" King will be once they start offering that one at woodcraft.. I really like the way my dewalt cuts compared to my Hawk.. maybe just because I'm used to the dewalt after 10 years of using it.. I've contemplated selling both my Hawks to buy a King.. I'd rather sell just one Hawk and buy a 21" King.. this way I keep three saws.. Dewalt Hawk 226 and a King.. but waiting to see the 21" price.

THIS... is exactly why I stopped doing shows and events and concentrated with online sales only... There are only about 4 shows a year that is even worth the effort here in my area....and when I looked into them... there was a waiting list of 3-5 years unless someone croaks or stops entering.. because the people that get in the first year get to sign up for the next one.... they get first dibs on the spot they want etc.. All other shows are quite lame with very little foot traffic etc.. Plus focusing online only.. people shop day or night.. any day of the year.. Takes a good 5-7 years to build up some traffic though.. but it is starting to pay off for me.. You really are fortunate to be in a good location for a lot of different foot traffic..

Hey Rolf, Thank you for the tips.. Mine is also the upper bearing on that connecting rod.. I don't have any bushing... it's a sealed bearing pressed into the connecting rod with a ( I think it's called a) flange bolt.. Man why can't I think of the name of this bolt.. anyway the bolt is larger to match the bearing then turned smaller where the threads are.. Sorry my mind went blank there for the name of the bolts, LOL probably come to me as soon as I post this... I had planned to try to buy just the potentiometer to replace it.. didn't know where to buy them though.. used to be able to get that type of stuff from radio shack but they don't do things like they used to either.. figured I'd search the web for it.. I'll look into the place you mentioned.

Hmmm, I think I am going to take my whole saw apart and check the whole thing out good.. I'm not sure what to say about adding grease to the bearings.. but.. most any bearing I buy I take apart and wash out the supplied grease and re-pack the bearing with high end synthetic grease.. that's just me.. I will probably do this to my saw when I take the rest apart and check out those bearings.. I wonder if my 1998 saw has the same type bearings.. be interesting to find out what's in there. Yeah, I'm still that little kid that takes new things apart just to see how it's made or how it works, LOL I've seen a lot of sealed bearings in my day that was shipped new with little to no grease.. Anyone that has had much time on a grease gun greasing things knows that grease many times in those tubes get air pockets in them from time to time.. I speculate that this probably happen in the big barrels of grease too.. I'm sure this is a automated system and possibly why some bearings get non - to very little grease in them from the factory.. while others get the required amount.. Seems like the manufacture would weigh them to see that they all weigh the same.. maybe a few get slipped past Q.C.

according to the specs in the book.. it weighs in at 108 lbs.. Not sure if that is with the stand or just the saw.. either way as large as it is.. flipping that over at that weight and size.. I'm sure I could do it.. but I'd be afraid to by myself.. hate to drop a new saw upside down.. I'm sure with that weight.. It'd break / bend something..

Must be mine has a different counter weight.. I have a big square block that has 4 cap screws bolted right to the motor.. the counter weight is encased in this I think.. I'll have to look it over again in some better light.. regardless.. it looks to me that the eccentric / counter weight is all encased into this external block.. My seals for the bearing was in tact.. I took them out carefully to try to clean them up and add grease.. I'll just press new bearings into this...if / when I get it apart.. But now.. I am more concerned about the VS control as the saw isn't even usable to me on the lowest setting, LOL

Nicely done...

Nice work!!

Very nice work.. Like the Ram, LOL You must be a Dodge enthusiast? My son sure is.. I made this key rack for him when he got his first truck (1990 W-150 ).. cut this from 1/8" oak then glued to 1/2" oak.. filled with red liquid inlay and sanded smooth.. He loves this thing.. I've made him lots of things but this is the first one he goes to to show off to his buddies, LOL

Yes that's the way it works.. advertising is expensive but an option as well..

I'll see if I can get a picture the next time I'm out in the shop.. Don't think the same company that made the Hawk made the bearing too.. so I would assume there could be loc-tite on it.. Most all of the scroll saws I've worked on had left handed threads on the motor shaft.. this would be the bolt / cap screw I'm needing to get out.. but trying to hold the motor from spinning while trying to break loose the allen cap screw is slightly difficult.. I may either saw the allen / hex wrench down so I can put it into a socket / ratchet.. or buy a set of allen / hex sockets.. then I have something with some leverage to work with too, then my only issue will be trying to keep the motor from spinning.. which I may be able to use some vise grips to clamp onto the connecting rod.. hopefully.. The knob and shaft broke.. so it's the whole assembly.. I knew it was stuck pretty good.. so I gave it a harder pull.. once it was off... on the bottom side of the knob.. I see it had a set screw in it.. had I seen that I wouldn't have broke it.. what I get for working in the almost dark corner on my shop I suppose.. LOL..

That might work for this.. I'll have to check to see if it has brushes or not.. Thank you for the idea though..

Great idea.. I may try that.. while this thing is super heavy.. I'd need a helper to flip it upside down.. and most times there isn't any helpers around, LOL..

I've contemplated doing this with my clocks.. and larger items.. I have plenty of space for it.. and since I ship all my items...they could be already packaged up.. but.. I haven't done this due to the small clock motors coming with batteries and some clocks might sit here a year + before they get sold.. afraid the batteries would be junk by the time they sell and then the customer complaints would come in, LOL

As many of you know.. I have a new "Old" 1998 226 Hawk ultra.. This was still boxed when I bought it in May 2017.. Over the last couple of weeks using this it started developing a blade wobble.. almost identical to what Iggy's video was showing.. over the last week I have tweaked and adjusted everything I could think of.. finally last night I started taking things apart... turns out.. the bearing on the connecting rod (upper bearing on rod from motor to lower arm...lower arm end) doesn't spin freely and felt gritty when trying to spin it with my finger.. It's a sealed bearing (1616 rs ) so I popped the seals out.. there was absolutely no grease whatsoever in there.. I used to work in a bearing supply store... this happens a lot more than you would think.. makes me wonder about Iggys saw issue's.. could be a possibility.. So, I needed to take this connecting rod off.. ( yeah right ) you can hardly get room in there to get to the motor end of the rod.. so.. take out the power switch / speed control box.. not much room for that either.. this is where it gets bad.. I tried to pull the knob off the speed control for a little more wiggle room...snap.. broke the speed control.. long story but I am not able to get the hex screw out on the motor end.. not really knowing whether it might be left hand threaded or not.. but the real issue is trying to hold the thing from spinning while I put some torque on the hex screw.. cannot find any slot or spot to lock the motor from spinning.. Anyway.. I started putting things back together and was just going to soak the bearing down good with penetrating oil and I did get it working fairly free and packed it with synthetic grease.. put it back together to try it out.. but now that the knob broke off the speed control it's stuck on the lowest speed setting LOL.. so.. look down the hole of where the knob goes.. a slot look so I put in a straight screw driver ( saw unplugged of coarse LOL ).. spin it to to the other direction.. no change So now... finally.. my question.. anyone ever buy a speed controller for these? Price? I know HAWK sells these as a unit.. that said I believe if I can find the controller itself I can solder the new wires leads myself.. I just need to find the part, LOL ... I'll take it back apart and see if I can get any info of that speed controller.. I have a local electric motor repair shop not to far.. I know they will be able to fix me up.. BTW.. for what it's worth.. the saw is a 1998.. Hawk was using the made in China bearings in the saws back then too.. I know Hotshot mentioned a USA made saw with as he expected.. China made parts.. Also... while on this topic.. any tips to getting that hex screw out of the motor? I still intend to change the bearings.. they are not even a high grade China bearing LOL.. I think if I take the motor from the saw and put it on the workbench I can probably get it out.. just a PIA to work under the saw..

My orders got cut on Monday / Tuesday and mailed them out on Wednesday since I had stated I don't work in the shop on weekends unless I absolutely have to at least as far as cutting.. sometimes I'll tinker with a saw or clean up stuff.. Kevin

Also make nice frig magnets.. Years ago I was cutting and selling a lot of the Steve Goods Christmas tree shaped ornaments with the dog silhouette cutout of the middle of the trees.. I saved the cutouts and glued small earth magnets to the scrap pieces.. always sold out on those.. but then.. they was $3 each.. or free with a ornament purchase...No longer doing any in person events so I don't offer that anymore.

I had that issue of the item I needed was at the bottom of the tote too over the last couple of years.. Plus I stack my totes.. and the tote i would need would always seem to be on the bottom.. I now bought some of the plastic storage drawers ( for a lack of a better word LOL ) and they work out very well for my ornaments.. I have yet to get my new drawers set up for my clocks and other items.. actually haven't completely finished setting up my ornament one.. but what little I have done.. it's working out very nice.. Since I don't typically do shows.. I intend to just build custom shelving / drawers for my items.. as my shop is 24 x 32 and my storage area is upstairs in the loft area ( gamble style garage ) loft area is where I do my finishing and storage.. which is 14 x 32.. I put down flooring in behind all the trusses so the actual 14 x 32 is still open as I stack my totes / drawers in between the trusses or behind the wall so to speak, LOL.. I used to use the small storage bins from the dollar tree for my ornaments.. then stack those into a bigger tote.. I was stacking six different ones in a big tote.. and had three totes full.. so not only was I digging in the bin.. but I also had to dig out the correct tote.. then find the bin.. then dig through the bin for the correct item... what a PIA that was..LOL I'll try to find the drawer things I use so you will know what I am doing visually.. if you'er like me I read the pictures first ..LOL Edit to add: Drawers This is similar to what I use.. cannot find the actual item now.. but the one for my ornaments are about 14" x 14" ish with about a 4 - 5" high drawers.. I am able to fit 10 stacks of ornaments with 22 ornaments per stack per drawer... I try to keep about 20 ornaments per style on hand.. at the moment I have 154 different styles listed online.. but truly I am closer to 230 styles that I actually have.. I just need to get them listings set up.. Anyway.. these drawers for the ornaments have 6 drawers per unit... I have 4 units full.. I bought them last year on black Friday for $6 each.. normally around $30.. I also have some larger ones that have 3 drawers per unit that I picked up for my clocks etc.. they are 22" wide by 15 ish deep and the drawer is around 6-8 inch tall.. still see some digging for my item with these... but.. not like digging through a 24" tall tote that is 2.5 ft long and 15" wide etc.. you can stack a lot of clocks etc in one of those totes... I know because the one I need is always on the bottom, LOL Not sure if this would work in your situation.. since packing up for events etc.. but it works very well for my needs.. much better than digging through the totes..