kmmcrafts

Even if the wedges are worn.. that can be replaced.. ( not too expensive ) in fact you can sand them down to a fairly sharp point to.. however I am not sure how many times one can do that.. at some point I think you would need to send the arm in to have that part of it machined.. As for the controller, I'm not real certain what happens to them.. ( maybe the controller gets worn and doesn't work right ) I would think one could get a new controller and solder it up to work.. much like I did when i broke the one off on my newer Hawk. Hawk doesn't really offer any electronic service like that.. they just buy a new motor and controller assembly to install in the saw for you.. But I do know there was some issues with these motor / controller assemblies.. I've had mine go bonkers a couple times.. and fluctuate speed like jumping up speed real fast then slow where I had it set at.. mostly when ever I adjust the speed while the saw is running it got jumpy but only when I mess with the setting then it clears up in a couple seconds.. I just don't mess with the setting while the saw is running anymore and no issues.. Good condition saw is probably worth $150 I gave $100 for mine.. I figured it would give me a taste of what all the hype about Hawk saws was.. even if it only lasted a short time.. I've got my 100 out of it several times over and probably sold 500 - 1000 worth of projects that was made with that saw..

My 1998 226 ultra has this same style clamps.. but those older ones have a round clamp and there is not roll pin.. thus the slot on the base.. still somewhat the same concept though.. just wanted to clarify that so we don't confuse him with two different types of clamps.. The older ones clamps are called barrel clamps.. same basic barrel clamp as what the new Jet uses.. other than Hawks clamps have a brass bushing so you don't wear out the lower slot in the arm with the harder steel clamp that the Jet uses..

This is my take on the saw.. since I have not seen the saw.. and just based off what I know about my older 220VS saw which is a 1993. Mine has the older style motor that if / when there becomes an issue with the variable speed.. there supposedly is no fix other than to replace the motor and controller together which Bushton will do but if I remember correctly cost around $350 plus you have to ship the saw to them. Not a huge issue to me because I'm pretty certain I can find a fix to do myself.. have seen where others have wired direct but then it's stuck at full speed.. As for the clamps.. there is a slot ( kind of oval shaped ) in the base of the saw that holds the clamp while you tighten the thumb screw.. Took me quite some time to get used to the clamps.. comes second nature now.. I do like the saw.. and really haven't had any issues with it.. but I also don't use it a whole lot either.. Only got it because the price was right. I upgraded the air hose to the flexible one ( add-on kit from Bushton ) . I don't think it has nearly the vibration as my newer Hawk.. but the newer one is also a 226 ( 26 inch throat ) so that could be a difference. It also tops out at 1500 SPM ( strokes per min. ) while the newer ones top at 1750 SPM If you choose to go look at it.. take a look at the wedges at the back of the saw and see that they are fairly pointed.. they get worn and that will give a sign as to haw much the saw had been used.. a worn wedge can make your tension fluctuate during the stroke.. the wedge should be quite pointed.. They are located at the back of the arm and the tension rod goes through them. I'm sure there is more I could say but this is a good start..

I also wanted to mention that since someone mentioned Steve Good doing a review of the Seyco saw.. He also has done two reviews of the new Jet saw.. one being the un-boxing and assembly.. and then a couple months later a review of the saw itself.. also made some custom piece for the lower blade clamp.. Just thought I'd mention that also..

Not to throw this off topic.. but some big name companies do make a low end tool just to get some of the low end buyer market.. Not sure on saws and tools.. but as for say.. John Deere as an example.. 10+ years ago they started selling what was called Scotts lawn / garden equipment.. sold at Home Depot.. they was a cheap stamped sheet metal framed lawn tractor.. and there was no comparison to there actual John Deere tractors.. Now they brand it with their own name and sell them though many outlets.. Lowes here in my town carry John Deere tractors.. again these are just cheap made tractors compared to what you'd see at a actual John Deere dealer.. Other lawn equipment brands tried doing this same thing.. Cub Cadet.. as another example.. cheap steel frames.. and transmissions made of cheap aluminum etc.. nothing like the older Cub Cadet tractors.. I don't believe Cub makes a high end tractor anymore.. In fact I think MTD corp.. bought the Cub name and the Cub today is just a re -bagged MTD.. Like I said though... Not sure if this same thing applies to tools and saws.. can't say I've seen it myself.. but not to say they aren't doing it..

Congrats on the new shiny saw!! After you use that new saw for a while.. then go back and try to cut with the old one once.. you'll wonder how you was even able to make anything halfway decent on that old saw, LOL

I'm guessing because of the fact that it's a bottom feeder only saw.. Also it's new.. and many people aren't spending that kind of money with very little "chatter" about the saw.. The price point of this Jet saw is higher on the spectrum to like saws.. that are top / bottom feed... ie Excalibur / King / Seyco etc etc.. the price point isn't too far off from the Hawk either.. so I think people are more comfortable spending their hard earned money with reputable places such as Seyco.. Most are also a little sketchy and don't like change and just don't know if they'd like the new clamping system of the Jet.. This is just my speculation only.. I don't really know.. other than this is somewhat how I feel about the Jet myself.. I do like the upper clamp design with the clamp & tension all with one simple motion of one lever.. how durable is the upper clamp? is something we may have to wait a few years to find out... I will say.. they have one on display at one of my local supply stores I go to often.. and about every time I go I look it over... about 50 - 60% of the time I look it over.. the upper blade clamp is broke or jammed ans wont work.. I'm guessing it's all the people playing with the display model trying to figure out the new system.. but also it worries me about how well that clamp will work for longer term use of fretwork..

I use mineral oil and beeswax mix.. and I do not spray any kind of top coat finish on top of that.. most all my work is with this finish with the exception of portraits and my wall clocks. those get solvent based poly spray and on certain occasions.. I use the water based poly spray.. the water based poly might have a strong smell at first but dries really fast so it's nice in those rush type orders.. If I was doing work like you had shown.. I'd use either danish oil or poly clear.. that type of work looks nice with a nice coat of clear.. do not like clear sprays on fret type work.. because I rarely see a nice even coat sprayed in the fret areas etc.. I think that type of work looks best in a natural wood look..

That's Awesome!!! I also got a saw last week ( Excalibur Ex-21).. I haven't had time to do anymore than open the box and peek at it, LOL.. I really think the upper clamp once you get used to it will be very nice with fretwork type work..

I never tried it or heard of anyone doing it.. and the way I apply it.. like Dan said.. I'd stain my hands cloths and many other things.. not to mention the reason I use it is because of the strong smells that come from stains etc.. and virtually no drying time needed.. so when customers order and want it three days before they ordered.. I can ship it right away.. without waiting for the strong smell to ease up..

Beautiful work!! Gotta try doing this one day..

Awesome Work!! Those are beautiful.. I did some inlay several years ago.. but nothing that nice, LOL.. I'd like to try many new things.. ie inlay ( again ) and always wanted to try intarsia.. but somehow.. my fretwork style clocks and ornaments keep me hoppin..

I read something on another forum about someone having an issue with their new King saw.. rather than deal with repairs etc.. King just mailed them a new saw... sounded to me like they are standing behind their saws pretty well in my opinion.. Read this on one of the FB groups..

Don't think you can actually purchase the Excalibur from Home Depot anymore.. while it still shows on their website.. noticed there is no option to add to shopping cart etc.. I've been told that the Ex / King saw will be available from Home Depot soon.. but I don't know how creditable that statement was or if the person even knew what they was talking about.. If you're not in any hurry I'd maybe wait it out a while and see if the King brand might bring in the 21" saw.. which is kinda what I was doing until I come across the brand new Ex-21 last week on craigslist.. Maybe keep an eye out for a good use or maybe even new on craigslist like I did.. Had I not found mine I was planning to purchase a new King after the holidays was hoping they'd get the 21" one in.. I've heard they are supposed to be getting them in.. again.. I don't know how true that is.. if they wasn't in when i was ready to buy I was going to go with the 30 ( I think ).. The 30 is really overkill for my needs but the 16 could limit me on some ( very few ) on my projects..

Which one of the HF stands fits the Ex best? I have some extras of the smaller stand they sell as I bought 6 of them at a yard sale.. I used three of them for drill press, grinder, belt-disc sander, and jointer.. I bought one of the bigger ones for the planer.. Suppose if the smaller stands mounting surface is too small I could cut a piece of leftover 3/4" osb I have and mount that to the stand and then the saw to the osb.. That is how I had done the other things mounted to those stands I picked up because the base of those other tools was too small to mount them the way I wanted.. However those smaller stands do not have height adjustments I don't think? maybe they do.. I'll have to look.. The larger one I have my planer mounted to is not a very sturdy stand.. well I should say it's sturdy but the legs ( adjustable feet or leg extensions ) are springy and the planer bounces all around.. can't imagine trying to scroll on that stand.. It's fine for the planer though..

I keep walking past the box with my new Ex-21... and thinking about how large it is.. I'm thinking the stands I have aren't going to be big enough.. I'd like to take a trip to my local woodcraft store and pick up a stand for the Ex-21.. but that said.. they are only selling the King in the 16" and the 30" so the web site shows the stands for the 16" and the 30" obviously.. I've read somewhere while doing research that the 16" and the 21" use the same stand.. Assuming the stand is still the same.. ( don't know why they'd change it if they still plan to sell the King in the 21" ).. Anyone on here have both a E'x-16 and a Ex-21 that could verify whether these stands are the same or not? I see Seyco web site still offers the stand for the Ex-21.. I suppose I could just order that.. but in my mind.. I'm itching to set this new saw up.. and thought I'd make the hour drive to woodcraft to get a stand, LOL.. Honestly shouldn't take the time off to play with it until I get the bulk of my orders done.. but.. not sure it's going to be possible to wait until the new year when things slow up a bit anyway

Sister in law lives in San Antonio, Father in law is in Nixon.. and when we visit we usually stay in Seguin.. Of all the times I've been there.. most times the temps was bearable other than the last time we stayed when it was 105 - 120 every day we was there.. believe that was either 2010 or 2011..

That is AWESOME!!! Way to go to all those who partook in this.. Wow!! 100 puzzles!..

I think most cans now days do have the liners.. and they are actually hard to see.. Think they coat them with some sort of spray in liner.. so it's very thin and hard to tell.. There is no harm in using a regular cooking pan either.. just wash it out good.. but then.. I also do use a dedicated pan I picked up at a yardsale.. anyway.. both the mineral oil and the beeswax is not harmful if ingested. which is why many use this for toys.. LOL

Not sure what part of Texas you are from... all heck it doesn't matter because no matter where in Texas.. way to hot for me in the summer.. My father in law lives in Texas.. back in 2010 or 2011 when we was there.. 120F.. went to a small swim hole off FM1117.. believe it was called Guadaupe river? water felt like a hot tub or sauna.. no cooling down from that water.. Father in-law likes to joke with me and we was talking gardens and what I grow in mine.. I mentioned potatoes.. he was trying to tell me that when you dig them up in Texas.. they are already baked, LOL.. after spending 4 weeks there in August I almost believe that..LOL..Oh... you can keep the fire ants and scorpions down that way too.. LOL I'll stick to this cold weather area.. easier to put more cloths on.. in the heat.. there is only so many cloths to remove, LOL

My high today according to the weather on my phone says 27F and that is about where it's at now.. 10F warmer tomorrow and then next week looks to be back to the mid 40's.. I don't mind working out there in the mid 30's +.. but this below 30's is too cold for me.. while I say this.. when the dead of winter comes and all we get is in the teens.. 25 feels pretty darn good, LOL... funny how that works.. but next spring..in 40's I'll be taking my coat off.. but mid 40's in the fall.. can't get enough cloths on.. LOL.. I think at some point.. I'll block off an specified scroll sawing area to heat.. I do have a little propane tank mounted radiant heater that I run next to me that helps tremendously... but would love to just have a small area that stays heated to 40 - 45 degrees..

LOL, Have fun grading wax.. it goes quite hard compared to grading cheese.. I'd opt for the pellets.. but that's your call... I got my 5lb block about 4-5 years ago.. and it's just about gone.. can't wait to be lazy and do it the easy way, LOL

Taking a warm-up break.. was 17F when I went out to the shop this morning.. been working on the custom ordered clocks I got the other day.. Not due to ship until late next week so I'm just taking my time on them in this cold.. though it is getting better out there pretty quickly as I've been out there for about 2.5 hours and looked at the thermometer before left the shop and it's up to 25 now.. Might take the rest of the day off as I have a big plumbing job to do here in the house.. have to take the wall out to get too it.. why doesn't anyone make access panels for things like this I'll never know.. will be one when I'm done.

I'd think since the baby oil is no more than mineral oil it'd be the same quantity as those I mention above.. I'm not sure on the exact size of my containers I use.. but my mixture makes enough to fill up 2 and just a small amount in the third container.. Thinking the containers are pint sized ones..

Yes, Thank you to all who have served or are serving our great country.. I've never supported the sports so not watching will be a normal day for me and the News Media.. is going to start getting that same attention from me.. The way the news people have to get ranking on stories sometimes make me wonder if they don't have their hands in a lot of the stuff they report.. Sort of like paying off a hit man to do something at a certain time etc so they can report first.. because they know it's going to happen, LOL... Crazy world we live in.. thankful not only for the military but the police, fire, EMT's and Nurses