kmmcrafts

What I mean is.. blade movement from front to back.. the more movement front to back the more aggressive the saw will cut or faster cutting.. Not sure if the Hegners have any type of adjustment for this.. Ex's, Newer Hawks, Jets, and Seyco saws have this feature.. If you go to the Hawks web site they mention the adjustment in their video and show how to do it.. very simple.. not sure how it's done on the other saws.. Kevin

If I were you.. I'd probably piece together the DeWalts as long as you can and opt to look for a used Hegner or Hawk.. You seem to have your mind made up on the Hegner so I guess maybe Hawk is out of the question now? or at least give one a good couple hour test run.. Like I said in the other post.. being able to adjust the aggressiveness of the cut is worth it's weight in gold when you get a saw that cuts a lot slower and cannot adjust the aggressiveness.. One thing that you can help compensate is using larger blades to help cut faster.. Not sure if the blade can be adjusted on the Hegners.. but if not.. the type of work you do is typically thicker wood.. and in order to keep the puzzles tight.. you probably don't want to go to a larger blade.. so the only option is being able to adjust the blade front to back for a more aggressive cut. Maybe cutting fast is not a concern of yours.. but for me.. time is money and if I could cut 1 or two more puzzle per day.. that time and money ads up over a years time.. I plan to own or at least try out a Hegner one day.. Maybe I would like one better than my Hawks..

FD blades was always my go to blade until I tried the pegas MG.. Also like olsens PGT blades.. just wish olsen would offer a size smaller than that of the #5..

Hmm interesting... I don't recall your Hamsa box or even know what that is... BUT... I do know what a pole dancer is

I don't know much about the Hegners.. but.. I will say that it is quite an adjustment going from a DeWalt saw to a different saw.. and what I mean by this is.. I have been cutting on a DeWalt for about 10 -12 years.. took forever to get used to the Dewalt because of the aggressive fast cutting that the Dewalts are known for.. and many people don't like because they are too aggressive.. I bought a fairly lightly used Hawk 220VS last October for $100 and all I can say is.. it's an awesome saw.. but... it took a long time to get used to cutting on it because.. it's just not very aggressive cutting.. Love it for thin wood cutting because it's not so aggressive.. but for anything thicker than 1/2 + I hate the saw.. it seems so slow at cutting.. for one the older Hawks 220VS only have about 1500 strokes per min. speed as apposed to the DeWalts 1750.. If you are used to cutting fast.. you may not like some of the other saws.. unless they have an adjustable blade angle ( front to back ) so you can make it more aggressive cutting.. I liked everything about the Hawk 220VS other than the blade not being able to adjust the aggressiveness of the cut.. Three weeks ago I run up onto a Hawk 226 Ultra brand spankin new still boxed with tons of extras.. $400 love this machine as it has two positions for the blade adjustment for making it either aggressive or not aggressive cutting.. I use it in the aggressive position all the time and absolutely love this saw.. The brand new BM220 and the BM226 saws and an adjustable lower arm that you can variably adjust the aggressiveness of the cut.. Love to have one of those.. Anyway, I just wanted to give a heads up on my experience with using a different saw after using a dewalt all those years.. It's sort of like driving on the expressway at 70mph for 8 hours and then go into a city and drive 30mph.. that is how I felt after cutting for so many years on my Dewalt and then going to the Hawk.. I am sure other saws would be the same feeling unless you can adjust the blade to get the more aggressive cut.. Might be worth the drive to test one out before putting out all the money and being disappointed.. Just My Opinion I also do a lot of cutting and have taken my dewalt down for new bearings etc more times than I'd like to mention.. I have found though if you use a good quality synthetic grease you can get a lot more time on the bearings.. I typically do the front portion of the saw every year.. and the back every other year.. I find that since they didn't use sealed bearings that the fine sawdust drops right down onto the bearings at the front of the saw and dry up the grease.. these are the ones that I end up doing yearly.. now.. I will say.. I have really only replaced the bearings only once.. But I clean out the old bearings and re-grease every year.. and have been running the same bearings for 5 years now.. If you can maintain them good.. the bearings will last a long time.. it's just when the grease drys up and then it burns up the bearings and sleeves..

The best dust control system would be to suck it up and contain it.. rather than using blowers and fans to make it go air born.. that said.. it gets pretty complicated with scroll saws trying to have some sort of vacuum in your way.. I often thought about trying the scrollando or other homemade type dust collection for my saw.. maybe I will run some experiments this summer with it.. too bad the saws aren't built to have a built in dust vacuum rather than a dust blower.. Kevin

I have a stand about the same height as my saw.. have the box fan on the stand about 1.5 - 2 foot away.. I then aim my air blower somewhat toward the fan and back toward the back of the saw.. Works ok.. get a lot of dust on that filter.. but I still get quite a lot of airborn dust. I bought a filteration system that hangs from the ceiling last fall.. but been too busy to get it put up... hoping that will help too.. thought about one of the vac machines that hook to your scroll saw.. think it was called scrollando? seen one hooked up to a DeWalt.. not sure if it could work well with the Hawk or not.. Kevin

I don't think you will find many people that will know anything about it.. LOL Like I said earlier the worker where I bought it at thought I was a little off my rocker, LOL.. All it is is what they call Base Paint.. Base being un-mixed paint with out the color pigment added... I wish i could find the blog where I found this at.. but that was 4 years ago when I did my research.. The base paint looks white.. but actually dries clear.. Has to be exterior house paint as the exterior has UV, mildew, and bug protect-ant properties in it. Can be latex or oil base.. I used latex because that was the only one they had in small amounts on hand.. The blog I read mention either will work but oil base was better..

I was just searching for the web page where I learned of this.. but I cannot seem to find it very quick.. but anyway there is info out there online about doing this.. the one I found back when I did my project.. they showed a study and this guy painted some scraps of wood with several types of outdoor sealers etc.. and the house paint outlasted all of the other so called outdoor sealers.. If I remember correct the test was done in Florida.. Anyway, do some research on it... Also suggest you try it on a few scraps first.. because it can be a little tricky with getting the coats on thin so it will not clear hazy.. Was a tedious job for me as to the way I had fretwork to seal up etc.. To do over I'd probably try using my spray gun.. unless I had little to no fretwork..

Just regular house paint for wood sided houses.. you would want the plain kind without the primer added.. can be latex but oil base is supposed to be better.. I used latex because I didn't want to buy a 5 gallon pale of oil base for one sign.. as they was sold out of the smaller cans of oil base.. I still have my can and never used it but for one sign.. Anyone close enough could have it.. LOL Actually I did think about making router ed signs but still haven't done it because the demand for scroll work has kept me quite busy.. For what it's worth.. The sign I made was made from Red Oak with a Walnut Backer.. Been hanging outside now for I think 4 years.. looks same as it did when it was hung up.. Kevin

I don't remember where I bought mine at now.. but since we have a Menards and a Lowes I am assuming I got it at one of the two.. I bought mine in a quart.. I would assume you could get it in whatever size they sell it in.. The places around here that sell house paint get it pre-measured already in the can and shoppers can go back and pick what can / brand they want... then bring it to the counter to be colored.. Just tell them you don't want the color added, LOL But do have them shake it up for you.. You won't get quite a full can because they leave room for the color to be added.. They most likely will think you are off your rocker to LOL Kevin

I was told to use regular outdoor house paint.. they say it beats any other finish.. you have to buy it plain no pigment in it.. paint stores will think you're crazy for buying just the base, LOL.. When I bought mine I explained to the guy what I was doing.. he didn't believe it would dry clear and asked if he could do a small spot sample to see.. I used it once and the project still looks great ( about 4 years now ).. If you do go that route.. The stuff looks milky white.. but will dry clear.. you have to use several real light coats though.. too heavy of coats will make it dry sort of hazy and also can have the milky white look too if very heavy coats are applied..

Okay this is a lighter duty one.. it's the triangle shaped one and only have one mounting hole.. the ones I use are more of a D shape and have two holes for mounting the hanger to the project.. very heavy duty.. probably overkill really but I'd rather know it's not going to fall and smash into several pieces that take a chance. http://cherrytreetoys.com/brass-d-ring-hangers/

On my heavier projects I use a D loop hanger.. some of the lighter duty ones are more of a triangle shape.. they typically have two screw holes to screw to the back of the project. i'll see if I can find a image of what I am talking about.. as I am not certain of what they are actually called.. Kevin

I am happy that you found part of the problem of using your new saw.. Even though you have that portion figured out.. it's still going to take some time to adjust to the different design of the Hawk.. I think if you give it enough time you will like it.. I like my Hawk a lot won't say I love it.. because every saw I have used I found things I think they could have done better.. My DeWalt has been an awesome saw for me for over 10 years.. Yes.. I've replaced the bearings in it a few times.. I have the newer Type 2 but I think for a $425 saw ( what I paid new with stand and light ) and have pretty much run it 8 hours a day which is way more than what it was designed to do at a mid level saw.. over those years the saw has paid for itself and several other large tools and equipment..not to mention the new shop 24 x 32 with a 14 x 32 loft.. so yeah I don't think DeWalts are junk.. they do what they were designed to do.. or at least mine has.. I just need more of a production type saw.. which used Hawks can be had for a price of a new DeWalt so I tried one.

The older Hawks have the same style ( barrel ) clamps as the new Jet saws.. But the newer Hawks have like the ones shown above.. My old Hawk has the Jet style and my newer Hawk has the ones like pictured above.. I like both really.. took some getting used to at first though.. Kevin

Wish I was closer.. I'd come take it off your hands if you really don't want to use it.. I bought my first used Hawk 220VS (1993) model last Oct. played around a little with it but it had some issues.. few worn parts.. but main issue was user error.. I put it aside until after the big holiday sales rush ( I sell Christmas ornaments and a lot of them.. ) After taking the needed time to actually learn the saw I have grown to love it.. while I still do have times where I will go to the old Dewalt if I am in a rush on a project.. because like you.. after many years of scrolling on the DeWalt.. I am still more comfy on it.. given the fact that I have only had my newest Hawk 226 Ultra (1998 ) for 2 weeks.. I understand what you mean when you say it seems like they could put the switch in a better location.. that said though.. with the design of the saw.. where do you suppose they could put it? I think they did better by just offering up a free foot switch with every saw.. most people that go buy a DeWalt most likely go out and buy a foot switch anyway.. so why bother redesigning the saw for a more convenient power switch.. just seem logical to me to throw in a foot switch since it is actually a safer option anyway since you have to have your foot on the switch to run it.. If you've ever worked in a factory you will notice that most machines have a foot switch.. for the production machines.. why change that up on a Hawk.. after all it was built for commercial / production use.. made to last.. with sealed bearings open design so when / if a part wares out you can see what is going on and quickly repair it and be back up and running in no time.. If you've ever taken a DeWalt apart for replacing bearings.. you will really see how cheaply made they really are.. with stamped steel arms that I am surprised they don't bend when tension is applied to the blade, LOL.. they use open needle bearings so the dust / dirt can get in and do a number on the bearings and sleeves... I know because I have rebuilt my DeWalt 2 times and it needs it again.. BTW.. Not bashing the DeWalt.. just telling the truth.. I have one, and use it.. I do love the machine.. but it's not made to do the work I throw at it.. Like I said.. I make and sell Christmas ornaments.. I don't have time to dink around rebuilding Dewalt saws every year.. plus the motor doesn't like to run in the cold weather.. no heat in my shop yet and it gets cold here in Michigan.. You know... everything you say about the Hawk.. I can say about DeWalt.. DeWalt is a good saw.. why can't they use sealed bearings? why put the power switch up on top without sealing it up.. most power switches quit working after 6-12 months and most replace it buy buying a foot switch and covering up ( dust sealing ) the new switch.. Anyway my point is take your time to learn to use the saw and you most likely would like it.. I've been doing most my cutting on my Hawk since Mid January.. but I still go back to the DeWalt for certain projects etc. I've gotten to be just about as fast cutting on my Hawk ( finally ).. If you don't want to take that time.. then I suppose sell it.. DeWalts are a good saw for a hobbyist.. but the amount of work I do.. I need a real machine to depend on.. so I have no choice but to give it a good long hard try.. or end up with several DeWalts and start paying someone to repair them for me.. I sent mine out once then I ended up spending a day tuning it as the repair shop didn't square the blade or the table and had the table on wrong to begin with so I still end up taking time to work on it..

I highly doubt that simply because every one has a different cutting style.. not everyone cut's thin / thick wood etc. etc... If I was to cut only 1/8 - 1/4 stock,, I love my old Hawk.. as it's not so aggressive to cut that thin wood.. But if I cut 1/2 - 1" then I like cutting at max speed on my aggressive cutting DeWalt best.. many people don't like the aggressive cut that the DeWalts have.. some have went to great lengths to modifies there DeWalts so they wouldn't cut so aggressively.. But anyway.. like I said.. everyone has their style of cutting.. which is why you see so many people that like certain types of saws better than others.. I like my Hawk saws for certain styles of cutting.. while I like My old DeWalt for other types of work.. just like the quick set blade clamps from Delta saws.. Many people rave over them and put them on other types of saws..myself.. I couldn't get used to them on the two different Deltas I have ( SS350LS and 40-530 ).. I always would get them too tight or too loose.. Those two saws i move out of my shop and put into my storage shed.. ended up selling one a couple years ago.. So I doubt someone could make one perfect saw that everyone would rave over.. but I do understand what you mean.. it just wouldn't happen..

Yeah, my saw is on that roll pin too.. and the blade flexes to the back a whole lot.. unlike the DeWalts that have a very firm blade once mounted up against the back of the holders and tighten down.. The older Deltas that I have used in the past had the roll pin deal like the Hawks.. Honestly I feel it's a better design because it helps prevent from over pushing on the blade.. really hard to get used to though.. For what its worth.. the older hawk's lower barrel clamp also can pivot some for you get it from both ends of the blade.. I always felt like I had to really push the blade through the wood to get it to cut.. but once I relaxed and just let the blade do it'd job the saw cuts real nice.. just seems real slow at doing it though LOL.. Kevin

I went from a 788 to a old style Hawk 220VS with the barrel clamps.. wow was that hard to get used to.. I did get more comfortable using it.. then just a couple weeks ago I picked up a new 226 ultra.. that was a little easier to get used to but yes.. any saw changes Hawk or otherwise when going from a 788.. it hard to get used to.. I wonder if you need to adjust the forward / back motion of the blade to help it slow down or speed up ( more or less aggressive cut ) the cutting.. My issue with my 220 was it cut way less aggressive and I found myself trying to push the blade through faster and bowing the blade etc.. its a much slower and less aggressive saw.. The 226 has two positions to put the lower blade clamp in.. one for more aggressive cutting.. which is the one i use on it.. like that saw very much.. but it is still an adjustment from the other saws.. and if I am in a hurry to get a order done.. then I use my old 788...but if I am just making new products etc and not really in a rush i cut on the Hawk to get used to it.. Kevin

Well after 12 years of doing these stupid mistakes.. You'd think I would of double checked.. I typically do this about once every couple years.. I remember for a while and then get too relaxed I guess.. then bam... did it again.. don't imagine I will do it again for a little while anyway. LOL

One thing that can help in the future is to look for wood that the grain is close together or tight grained wood.. also.. a little more pricey but quarter sawn wood also holds it's flat shape fairly well.. All that said.. that whole warping issue is a big reason I typically just use plywood for my thin wood projects. but it's hard to really beat the beauty of solid wood.. while ply looks good on the face and back ( if you buy good two sides ) but the middle ( core ) isn't always the best looking.

I am betting that I am probably the only one that counts clean-up time into my pricing.. But these saws can make a mess.. and yes.. I shut down everyday and clean up.. If I worked in a factory or other type of setting.. you get paid to sweep or mop etc.. why shouldn't you get paid for your time cleaning up the shop after doing a project for someone.. I think too many people charge too little because they are only thinking about the end result piece... and not really thinking about all the little things that goes into actually making that piece.. I personally start charging the minute I walk into my shop.. whether I spend a whole day cleaning or sawing.. work is work.. and I am not working in a messy shop to make someone's piece cheaper..

Wife told me she likes it backwards on the wrong side of the plywood, ( actually don't look bad that way ) LOL so.. I may glue it like that and give it to her for her office at work.... She always takes my ooops projects like that, LOL.... first I though about trying to sand off the glue and seeing how it looks and if I can savage it the correct way.. but.. if not... I'm going to glue it backwards for her office walls of ooopps, LOL.... Her co-workers probably think I am some big ol dummy, LOL... actually I don't think they even notice the flaws in the things she takes in.. they always asking me to make something for them..

Nope, it's Walnut plywood that is only good on one side... so the back side is of a different wood.. I use the cheap stuff for backers as the good two sides stuff is high priced and not needed for a backer.. Oh well..