kmmcrafts

Where do you get these patterns from? I know of Dales puzzles and then there is a CD or books from Fox chapel.. I bought a book over the weekend that is called Woodimals by Jim Sweet. I've printed a couple of the puzzles.. but in the book it says to print some of them at 150% etc.. and doing so makes a pretty large puzzle.. that I have to use my 11 x 17 paper for.. then finding a board wide enough to cut them out on.. By the looks of your puzzles.. hard to tell in the picture but.. i'd say it looks like anywhere from 6 - 10 inch wide and maybe in that range tall.. depending on the puzzle.. as for the puzzle patterns in my book.. If I make more.. I don't think I will resize most of them.. some need to be a little larger but for the most part.. I don't see a need to make a 15" wide by 8-10 in tall.. other than the pieces might be smaller and a choking hazard for kids..

Guess I must be some weirdo then.. because I have a shop vac that I use every night at the end of the day ( if I work in my shop as I don't go vac if I haven't worked LOL ) to clean off my tools and the surrounding floors.. and about every 6-12 months I vac the whole shop.. including walls and ceiling.. Have been told that fine dust is also a extreme fire hazard if you just leave it laying around for years.. I even use the johnson wax to clean and wax my tools tables ( usually weekly ) and the whole tool and tool stands etc about every year.. as it helps keep the dust from sticking to it.. so even though many of my tools are 20 +years old.. they still look, and function like new..

Think this is the model I wanted to get when they was on clearance as they discontinued it.. Glad I didn't get it because I was at a antique engine swap meet and there was a older smaller Delta drill press I picked up for $2.. but was missing the chuck. Just so happen my friend had bought a box full of junk at a auction that had something in it he wanted.. but it also had the chuck that fit this drill press that he gave to me.. Been using this for 6-7 years now.. My next drill press will have two things different.. One is a crank to use to raise lower the table.. Can't tell you how many drill bits I have snapped off when trying to raise the table up and the thing goes hard and all of a sudden lets loose and makes me smash the table up into the bit and snap it in half.. Also.. I rarely have a bench top that isn't cluttered with junk from myself or my boy when he is working on stuff.. and I got tired of having to clean off a area on the workbench in order to have room for the drill press.. so I made up a stand for it.. but it now takes up more room in the shop than a regular floor model drill press.. so next time.. I will look for a floor model.. plus there have been times I wished it was taller to be able to drill something taller.. a floor model would do everything I'd need and more. and use up less space in my situation.. I think the one you are looking at is a decent drill press.. though to me.. seems a little pricey for a bench model IMO..while they sold new at around $300 I think..but clearance out price on them back when i was looking was right around $180.. Kevin

Well yes.. that is when I purchased the pattern set.. and I thought I had read that these patterns was royalty free but wasn't sure.. I bought back around 2010 I think and the set of 1800+ was around $40 - 60 I think.. maybe more but it was really cheap. While I may just send the pattern to her.. not interested in selling it though.. I also lost a lot of patterns in a computer crash.. and luckily I had backed up these patterns to a disc or I wouldn't have them either.. I now backup to a external drive as well as to disc and another computer LOL.. Kevin

They used to offer a free trial download WAY back in the day.. I tried it and at the time I liked it.. BUT.. that was when I was first starting to do my own patterns etc.. tools for it was quite limited back then.. Then I bought Corel draw.. mainly because way back when there was several designers getting out of woodworking and designing work and was hitting the road in a RV.. some gave me a lot of templates patterns where all I needed was to fill in the names for personalized type items.. they was done and saved in corel draw and wouldn't open in any other program... I never bought any updates for corel and now the old program won't run on windows 10.. I now use inkscape.. and actually find that it is easier to use than the others are.. but you mentioned portrait work.. and gimp is my go to for that.. I learned to do that from the videos posted on here by Travis.... not super great at it as I don't do patterns much so when i do I have to watch the videos again to refresh my mind.. LOL While I like custom work.. I really don't care for the designing parts.. rather pay someone to design for me so i can stay out in the shop doing what I really love... making sawdust.. LOL

Thanks for all the replies.. I've messaged the lady and mentioned the book from Fox Chapel and told her I wasn't certain if it was in the book or not.. Kevin

Way back several years ago maybe around 2010 I purchased a large set of patterns from the berry basket.. like 1800 patterns.. anyway... I have a person on etsy asking me for one of the patterns.. I figure it's not my pattern to sell / give away so it's a no from me.. however.. if I could steer the person to a web site or somewhere to get a copy of the pattern she wants.. Is the berry basket patterns still out there somewhere to purchase? This is a desk clock pattern of a dolphin.. see photo of one I made below. Person claims they have looked for years for the design but haven't be able to find anything.. thought maybe one of you all might know where to get it... besides me, LOL Thanks, Kevin

I always thought it'd be cool to do some of the patterns in metal instead of wood.. that said.. at the time I had thought of doing metal cutting I only had a Dewalt saw.. and in my opinion.. I would never cut anything other than wood with any saw that has the open needle style bearings.. such as the DeWalt and Ex type saws have.. it's bad enough getting wood dust in those bearings.. but metal seems like it would really prematurely wear out the saws bearings and sleeves.. I have to take my Dewalt apart 1-2 times a year just to clean out the bearings and re grease.. Kevin

I don't think a lot of people do them.. and probably many of them are for the same reason I don't do many of them.. First of all... if I am cutting something I am going to make money off of it or.. it is a gift for a friend or family member.. I don't cut stuff just to cut stuff.. and give away etc. In cutting puzzles get's a little more complicated when making to sell.. because the images you use need to be royalty free.. There was a big topic about using older calendars a few years ago.. Some say it's still copyrighted images and some argued something about fair use or something along those lines.. I wanted to get into making puzzles at one time just shortly before the whole thread on copyright started.. I went out and bought around 20-30 year old calendars on sale and was planning to use those images.. Then the topic came up.. not REALLY knowing I never pursued the puzzles.. Then a few years later I went out and bought a fancy expensive camera.. for the purpose of taking my own photos to use for the photograph for puzzles and for taking pictures of my work for my online store.. Well.. it just takes a lot of time to learn photography.. not to mention that the average printer photos will fade after a couple years.. so really to make a quality puzzle one probably should have prints made.. when considering all the factors into making a high quality puzzle I got discouraged.. I am not one to sell junk.. I take pride in my work and I do my best to put a quality product out there to sell.. You go to the handmade sites such as Etsy.. look at how many people are selling puzzles... Not too many shops there that are selling them.. especially when you compare it to fretwork.... same for other types of scroll saw work.. you don't see a lot of inlay, intarsia etc etc.. As for your question you asked.. I think you got a pretty good selection of info..for a really generalized question... someone mentioned using 1/4" BBply.. some have given info on ways to glue the photo to the board.. spray with clear for protecting the photo.. what saw blades should be used.. etc..any specific questions.. ask I am sure that someone would give an answer..

I am confused here.. while I have only done a handful of puzzles.. I don't understand why you would need to glue a 1/8 backing on a jigsaw puzzle.. Are you talking about a tray type puzzle?. On the puzzles I cut.. I used arleens tacky glue to glue the portrait onto the 1/4" BBply.. Used a roller to smooth it out and take out any air bubbles. Then after dried I sprayed the triple thick clear glaze over that.. I have done both free style cutting ( no pattern ) and I used a puzzle pattern from ( steve good I think). With freestyle cutting I drew 1" sized square graph on the back of the puzzle to help me keep puzzle piece sizes somewhat uniform. With the pattern I ended up taping a couple paper towels to the puzzle to protect the portrait and then taping a 1/8" BBply with the pattern on it.. This worked best for me.. however... freestyle cutting was much more pleasing to cut.. just had a hard time keeping the sizes uniform..

Well not sure how this all works in your area.. but around here.. companies don't like every Tom, Harry, and Joe snooping around their property to get pallets.. My brother has a sawmill business since the 1970's and he makes new pallets.. my neighbor has a used pallet business.. and a place my son works at has pallets all over the place and are always telling my son or anyone that works there that if they know someone that wants the pallets to have them come get em... so I told the neighbor.. he stopped in and they said no can do.. they are spoken for... yet the pallets still set there.. Talking with the neighbor guy about it and he claimed that many business's are like that.. and he speculates that it's because they just don't want people around on their property getting hurt or stealing stuff. Even though he is a legit business with a licence etc.. he still has a hard time with many places... yet they can't seem to find anyone to take them either.. just like the place my son works at.. There are a couple big dog business's that will go around and get them.. but.. they won't come get them unless they have a full big truck load so they just keep piling them up.. which in my book is probably just as much a safety hazard are having a smaller business guy come in to get them.. Now with this whole Home Depot thing.. maybe nobody will get a used pallet unless it's at Home Depot, LOL Personally I think companies should be required to recycle them anyway.. there is so much wasted lumber with pallets when they just crush them up and put them in the dumpsters. etc.. like a place I used to work at always did.. I could see maybe old busted up ones but really just toss a like new pallet out.. then the companies are always talking about going green... cutting cost etc etc.. but they throw these out.. Then again.. probably cost too much to deal with returning them or disposing of them.. so just throw them out.. just seems like a big waste..

I think this was about 3-4 years ago when the new BM series came out.. The video on youtube is 3 years old anyway.. so guessing right around that time..

Really depends on what it is that I am finishing.. Portraits, I use spray polyurethane satin or semi gross spray.. I like the water based stuff as it dries fast.. typically sand between coats then apply another and depending sometimes 2-4 coats.. For most anything else I make with plywood.. or most any other thing... I make my own finish from beeswax and mineral oil. I apply with those metal handled acid brushes and let it set for a few hours.. then I take my wife's hair dryer ( don't tell her LOL ) and on high heat setting I melt the wax down into all the little nooks and crannies and then wipe and blow with air hose out off the excess wipe it all off.. awesome non-toxic finish without strong smells.. makes it easier for my online selling because I can literally ship it out the same day I finish it. If time isn't an issue for the smells etc and I'm feeling too lazy to do the brushing etc of the beeswax mineral oil mix stated above.. then i will use Natural color Danish oil and just pour it into a foil baking pan dip the projects and lay them out on a board covered with paper towels to drip dry..

Elmers actually has a few different types of the spray adhesive... well two that I know of.. The first one my wife purchased wasn't too bad but it was only in a 4oz can.. I don't recall what it was called now.. nor do I know what the one I bought is called.. While the first can wasn't nearly as good as the 3M 77 it was tolerable.. also was over $4 for that tiny little can.. When I went back to get more I seen two types.. one was around $8 and one was $6.. I got the $6 can thinking it was the same as what I had.. while I don't think the $8 can would be worth it because you have to spray it on quite heavy to make it work.. the 3M stuff is sooo sticky that just a quick light spray will do good.. I get more issues of the nozzle clogging more than anything with the 3M 77.. and having sticky fingers for a day or so... but now I seen where someone said to soak it in mineral spirits.. I tried soaking in lacquer thinner for a day and it didn't touch it.. so I might try the mineral spirits..

That is a lot older than 2005.. that has the old barrel style clamp.. I believe this is out of the 1990's.. I have a 1993 with this style clamp.. my 1998 has a newer style clamp than this.. so this is a oldie..

These are the ones I get.. He also does sell in smaller amounts.. but the larger bulk amounts have a better deal... plus then I only have to order about twice a year.. Some are stickier than others.. as far as sticking to my mail packages.. and lift off when attached to boxes or poly mailers.. I just cover with tape on each end... as for sticking to the blue tape, packing tape, or shelf liner and sawing.. have not had any issues whatsoever by themselves.. without covering with tape.. only had one order of them that wasn't sticking well to the packages.. all the others have been real sticky.. not sure if it was a different brand or a somewhat bad batch.. either way they worked great for patterns.. just no so great for mailing packages.. I've ordered these a couple times a year for the last 3-4 years.. only the one batch that wasn't real sticky.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/280984685548?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I tried that with the Elmers spray and I just had a dry piece of paper about 15 minutes later.. maybe I could have wet it to be sticky again.. I don't know.. I ended up spraying it again.. It does work to let it get sticky but there seems to be a real fine line between it getting sticky and too wet or too dry.. needs to be sprayed very evenly otherwise you get it stuck good in some spots and not at all in other areas..

It's more so just easier to peel back off the wood once your done cutting.. The tape is typically 2" wide strips that when peeling off you end up picking at for 5-10 minutes to get it all off.. and having several little pieces sticking to your fingers and everything, LOL .. The shelf liner typically peels right off most times in one big piece.. Probably if you was real good and careful you could almost pick it off and put it on another board for another cut.. LOL

That elmers stuff sucks.. I had been using the 3M77 right along.. I ran out and the wife happen to be in town so I asked her to pick up a can.. well she couldn't find the 3M and said they have a elmers.. I'd read of others using the elmers stuff so i said get it.. I really have to soak the pattern down good and then let it get slightly tacky before it will work.. then it is still not always working.. I rarely use spray glues though as I hate the mess of the over spray etc.. I use full sheet shipping label paper when my patterns small enough to be printed on a standard 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper.. and since I sell online I need shipping labels so I also use them for that too.. I have a supplier on eBay where I buy 1000 sheets at a time.. very nice to just print-peel-and-stick... no sticky fingers trying to pick up the sprayed pattern etc etc.. Wish they made a 11 x 17 adhesive paper.. then I wouldn't have any use for those sprays..

That's Awesome!! I think you made a smart choice.. nothing against the Hegner saws.. I just think you get a much more user friendly saw with the Hawk.. Both are well made saws.. I hope to get this same saw in the next year or so.. Let us all know your thoughts on it once it arrives...

You are right... I hadn't even thought about the lower clamp on the new ones being easier accessible. That would make a big difference.

Same saw as the one I just bought, two years newer.. I bet mine was used less though since mine had never been taken out of the original box.. I didn't even realize it had the two positions for the lower blade until i got it home and put it together.. I gave $400 for mine but my picture is probably on the post office wall for theft, LOL The price of this is pretty decent.. especially if it really is a lightly used one..

I have a 1993 Hawk 220VS and there is no adjustment for the blade movement on that old of one.. I also just picked up a 1998 Hawk 226 Ultra.. That saw doesn't have the variable adjustment but it does have two positions for the lower blade clamp so it is adjustable but not really a way to completely fine tune it.. I don't think Hawk made the variable adjustable one until the BM series which are quite new.. I am pretty sure Rolf's saw is just the two positions like mine is.. but I think the 2005 and later saws have the ability to top or bottom feed.. Hope that clears it up some..

The problem with doing that is he strictly cuts puzzles.. and a more aggressive blade typically means a wider kurf. and a wider kurf makes a sloppy puzzle..

After having one that adjust.. I wouldn't buy a saw that didn't adjust.. I also do a wide variety of projects.. and cutting thicker stock with a saw that is not very aggressive is like driving on the expressway at 10mph LOL... especially after cutting on an aggressive Dewalt saw for the last 10 years..