kmmcrafts

Scott did a video that may give you some tips.. It's exactly how I do it.

Thanks for bringing that up.. I'm kinda looking out for a Hegner.. Not been too many around lately... now that I have some cash.. but boy there was some deals a month or two ago when I was broke, LOL.. Real nice 22" newer one a while back for $250.. and not far from me.. I had a hard time passing on it.. but didn't want to stretch the cash too thin.. Should have bought it and then sold the older Hawk I have.. as Les said earlier "Sometimes one has to ignore good sense."

That's where I know him.. I knew that name when I read this earlier...

Congrats on the new to you saw!! I had the opportunity to grab one of the 14" Hegners for $70 on a stand last year but my brain wasn't working correctly and I passed on it.. mainly because of the single speed and no up front blade release.. I do wish i'd have grabbed it now.. They did give me all the blades and a box of parts.. that turned out to be bunch of big blades I'd never use.. and the parts were Hegner blade clamps and the rear tension springs things.. I gave the blades away but still have all those blade clamps and odd parts box.. I'm gonna try me a Hegner some day..

My 1998 226vs Ultra is serial 103** It was purchased in Dec. of 1998 according to the receipt that came with the saw when I open the box and put it together after buying it from the original owner about 2 years ago.

That’s what I’ve been using for the last few months. Not sure if it was a good choice for gluing wood to painted surface or not. Really like the quick set time of the weldbond though.

Here is a screenshot. After doing all that I realized I could have just taken a picture of my glue bottle

I just realized I never put the link to the glue I bought. Had a big storm overnight and out of power now so using my phone. I’ll try to figure out how to use my phone to post a link lol

I change it up all the time like that... gives me something challenging to do and keeps me in tune with all the different blades..LOL.. I used FD blades for a good 12 + years so I adjust in just a few seconds after switching back from the Pegas.. I do this because I do like to be well versed in being able to use about any blade thrown my way..

This looks like the one I bought.. I really like it for gluing the painted / stained backers. I think it would be a decent glue for wood to wood gluing.. I normally use titebond III for wood to wood..

Sounds like you should have your picture posted up on the Post office thief board, LOL... Sounds like you got a nice deal.. Enjoy making sawdust with your toy

What Olsen blades do you run? I've had just the opposite.. the Pegas last a lot longer than the others I've used.. I will say they don't like heat.. so if you're running a pretty fast saw speed.. they'll dull quicker.. I don't have this issue on my Excalibur.. but I do on the DeWalt and Hawk but these two saws have a faster running speed.. i have to turn it down some for these two saws.. Another thing too.. They do cut straighter than most the other blades.. and when I first tried them I kept pushing sort of more on the side of the blade as I was used to the couple of degrees off that most blades have.. so by doing that I was creating a little more heat with them..

Yep, I read about putting water in on their website and gave it a shot.. Put just a little water in it.. shook it up real good and went back to gluing the backers.. I do like the glue very much.. it sets up pretty quick and seems like a real good hold since I tried to take them apart with no luck.. I think I'll be using this stuff from now on with the backers.. and maybe even more stuff.. seems like a very good all around glue..

Well, gluing up more backers on some more wall clocks today.. A while back I posted about backers and glue types for painted backers etc.. A few mentioned weldbond glue and epoxy glue... I couldn't find weldbond glue for the longest time.. then one day I happen to be in a Ace hardware store and they had a bottle.. I was concerned a little about the amount of dust on the bottle as if it had been there on the shelf for a while.. Today, I thought I'd give it a try... I suspect my glue is maybe old.. it was quite thick and didn't really want to come out of the bottle all that great... Not sure what the glue is supposed to be like I went forward and gave it a try anyway.. Seem to dry fast.. not sure if it's because it maybe old glue or not? The stuff dried out before i even got a couple clock backers glued on.. I use wax paper to pour a pile of glue on then spread it around with a plastic spreader and set my project on it make sure it gets pressed down good to get a good coating of glue lift up and stick it on the backer.. The glue was pretty dried out by the time I hit the second one.. maybe only about 1 minute later.. I normally use TiteBond III glue and can normally get 4-6 backers glued up before i need to add more glue and keep it all moist.. I read online doing a search that it can be thinned with some water to prolong the shelf life if it's starting to dry up.. I may try that.. but was just wondering if anyone that uses it regularly could give an idea of the consistency of the stuff compared to titebond etc.. I'm thinking it's old and sort of drying out.. but maybe this is how the glue is? I'd buy another batch if I knew this one was old.. but not wanting to buy another one just to see it's the same way.. So far.. from what I'm experiencing with this glue vrs. the epoxy... I like the epoxy better.. but I wanna give this glue a fair shot if the batch i have is just old..

I might add: another reason I stopped using the 3M-77 was the fact that the cold temps in my shop during the winter.. the spray can freezes up and doesn't spray worth a crap.. and once frozen even after you thaw it.. it never works the same... so in the cold months it was a fighting battle as well... so the full sheet labels take care of that issue too...Now... not so much an issue if I keep the can in the house and then ( actually remember ) bring it back inside the house when done.. That is just as much a pain as the spray glue itself.. Personally I find the cost quite comparable to buying standard paper and the spray glue... IF you buy the labels in bulk.. probably not economical for the hobbyist though?

I use to use painters tape.. then ran out of what I had on hand.. I then started using clear packing tape.. both worked okay for me.. peeling the pattern off was sometimes a chore but not knowing any other easier way that's just how I did it for most of 10 years.. Oh.. also use to use the 3M-77 exclusively.. Don't know how long it took for the light bulb to light up about printing the pattern on a full sheet shipping label.. but that was sure a smart move for me.. Eliminates a spray the pattern with messy glue step.. and for me just makes the whole process easier... Then about 4 years ago I read online somewhere about the shelf liner and gave that a go.. second best move was to use that.. sooo much easier to pull the pattern back off.. So now I use the shelf liner to the wood.. then use the label paper peel and stick to print my pattern on.. works for me.. I like the clear shelf liner over the masking tape because you can see the wood grain to be able to place the pattern exactly where you want / need it.. was always guess work where the bad spot in the wood was once covered in painters tape.. I often thought about trying a white colored shelf liner.. cut it into printer sized papers and try printing onto the label paper all together.. I have not got brave enough to try to run a shelf liner paper through my printer though, LOL But this would eliminate so many process's and supplies etc.

Pegas blades are very easily broken.. If you bend it,,, it'll usually snap at that bend very soon,, FD UR blades can handle those bends and twist much better from my experience anyway...

Never done that on purpose, LOL.. I have twisted a blade before though.. They do cut more aggressive when they get bend or twisted.. But I've never heard of twisting it one time..

Very nice work Jim... I love to make boxes.. but somehow got trapped into always doing fretwork.. I don't some bandsaw boxes a couple years ago.. My issue is storage.. Boxes take a lot of space up compared to clocks and ornaments etc.. though they do seem to sell quite well..

They used to call with this scare tactic.. guess the news got around on that one so now they're trying a different way..

I just put the pattern in the pattern section if you want to use it.. It's a sloppy pattern but if you can get past that have at it.. Please share your cutting photo here if you cut it.. If i see others cutting my patterns it might inspire me to post more of them, LOL

These were real popular years ago.. was going through inventory and ran across them.. Use to sell them on my website but then when I shut the site down they never made it to any of the other sites.. Guess I better get them up for grabs again.. Amazing how many projects I've made that either never made it to the websites or I move websites around and never get them all back online... Anywaythese was one of my favorite to make.. and sell.. somehow they got lost with my A.D.D. Pink for girls and blue for boy... also did green for neutral not pictured These are cut from 1/4" BB ply and I used a foam sheet backer and then screwed small screws in to hold the sawtooth hanger..

I've been using them for about 3 years now.. last year they ran a bad batch and I ended up with 5 gross of the bad ones... I used 3 of the 5 gross anyway.. but that last 2 gross was basically unusable whatsoever.. About 13 years of Flying Dutchman blades before that.. and yes. ran into bad batches of those before too.. so it happens.. You must have lucked out on not ordering / needing blades during that bad batch last year.. Was a lot of complaints on the FB groups about those blades, LOL

Just wanted to clarify that I emailed Bear Wood where I bought the blades.. with my order number and the amount of blades I had ordered with them.. They replied back saying they was going to ask the higher ups about the issue and get back to me.. Later that day.. they messaged back and said there was a few blades that Pegas tried to redesign or something and that they had some issues with.. and said they would be sending out replacements right away.. The replacement blades came directly from Grobet.. not from BW.. Must faster than the other orders I've gotten from BW.. probably because they were sent from within the USA.. and not Canada.. BTW, Been sawing all day today so far with those #5's.. no broken blades.. Yay, LOL Also the new blades seem to be much sharper blades than the ones with the notch.. Now.. not all the notched ones were as bad as those I got from BW.. The 3-4 gross I got from DnD with the notch.. I did have breakage issues from time to time.. and they were sharper than these others I got from BW.. some of these from BW didn't even have the last couple of teeth on the cut stroke pointed.. it was just a square shape rather than a pointed tooth..

I'm assuming that is $5000 a year of Marine Items? Or is that total hobby income..