kmmcrafts

This is sort of why I'm trying to find out if they ever got the #5's issue figured out.. I've heard two stories.. 1) is that they ran a bunch of bad blades that got through QC... 2) they are trying to make them marked for what side is top / bottom but messed up some and are experimenting with that process... In either case... Pegas has been my go to blade for a couple years now... and don't think the others have better QC and that they don't get into the hands of the users.. a few years prior to me switching to Pegas... FD ran a whole bunch of bad blades... so they all do get a few bad batches that reach the end user.... I've gotta order a few gross of #3's and wondered about ordering some "hopefully" good #5's hoping they have this bad batch sorted out.. and I could get back to my #5 Pegas.. which was my most used blade. Guess if nobody has ordered and confirms that they now have good blades.. Maybe I'll order a dozen instead of a gross and see what I end up with..

I don't think I could put mine in high enough to clamp as you say.. the notch on mine is about 3/4 inch down from the top of the blade.... I suppose if i lowered the upper arm on the EX I could use them then.. but the arm wouldn't be parallel to the table then.. probably change the way the saw cuts drastically too.. I have 2 gross of them.. did have 3 gross but I used up the one gross I got from DnD.. these ones I have now are from Bear Wood.. it was during the time DnD was out of stock because they was replacing the bad blades.. I got in too late on that deal.. so I ordered from BW..in hopes of getting a good batch.. turned out to be worst yet.. Now I'm setting on 2 gross that will probably end up in the trash.. I'll message BW to see what they say..

Some of you may have remembered about the #5 MG blades having the notch cutout on them and having some being longer than others etc. I'm wondering if anyone has bought any blades recently and if so.. is the notch still in them? I remember reading on FB where someone said they made them that way on purpose to mark the top / bottom of the blades.. I've basically stopped using the #5's because all they do in my Hawk is break.. so I started using the #3's which seem to be working really well.. I may send BW a note about the blades I got from them.. as they are definitely not right.. every few blades I've also noticed that the last downward tooth just before the reverse teeth has a solid tooth.. ( like squared off and not sharp pointed like the others ) Not sure what they'll say about it since I bought them last Dec. but at any rate what good are they to me if I can't use them on my Hawk saw.. They don't break nearly as often on my Excalibur.. but still break from time to time so it's not just a Hawk issue.. It's definitely a bad batch of blades.. especially the ones with that funky tooth.. I call them snagga tooth blades, .. and I believe they are all kinda dull.. as even in thick wood.. the #3's kick butt.. compared to the #5's Anyway.. just wondering if they still have that notch.. seems to be where mine are breaking at.. I may just stop using the #5's and use the #3s and #7's #5's take about 45 minutes to cut a stick of butter in half.. not with the grain.. across the grain. The ones with the goofy teeth.. not sure what way to put them in.. I've tried both right side up and wrong side up.. on both front and back sides of the blades... yep.. even mounted sideways.. still cut about the same in any of the positions

Great looking boards.. I've always wanted to try my hand at making some of these.. just never have.. My Father and Brother in law play something similar but it's with big washers.. and instead of a slick smooth painted board they use a non slip coating to hold the washers.. Always looked forward to playing that when we go to Texas to visit them.. Last time we was there he built me a set to practice with so I could beat them at it when I come back.. I haven't been practicing and never when back either, LOL They were good at it and was on tournaments etc..

I kinda see both sides.. on one hand I understand the people copyrighting things because it protects their logo or whatever from being used.. Being small business I don't like people copying my items I've designed and sell either.. But I can deal with that more than those folks that go steeling my photos from my websites because I took time to take nice photos with many angles etc.. and put them up on their own site selling the same things.. This was a big thing a few years back and probably still is.. I've found sellers in other countries having websites using my photos and my product titles and descriptions.. many sellers back then were watermarking their photos... but google kicks you out of searches doing that... Not much one can do but report it.. so I mean.. I do understand the stuff.. I've been told a lot of times about my car clocks are safe from it if I'm not using their logos.. The couple of clocks etsy did take down from me was ones with logos.. but they never touched the others that didn't have logos on it.. Now.. understanding the logo thing because they have a artist create a logo for them etc and that is their trademark.. I get that.. but one that gets me is.. phrases..that are trademarked.. really? it's just words..yeah some goofball made up a phrase or word and some rich person decided to copyright / trademark it..

I taped all four sides and worked from one end to the next end.. the tape held fine just taping the four sides.. I got a length of packing tape about the same length of the puzzle and taped to the top then stood up and bent tape over the edge and around to the back side.. The very middle piece once you cut off the one taped end does bounce a bit more.. and required more pressure by my fingers.. but it went okay.. 3M -77 is strong stuff.. but they do make a stronger adhesive too that says permanent bond.. Can't remember off the top of my head what the stuff is now.. we used both 3M-77 and the stronger one in the body shop biz.. I think a wood glue for bonding the photo is a stronger hold.. I used wood glue on my first puzzles I made.. first one I got too thick of glue on it and put my thumb print into the photo by picking up the thing before the glue had fully harden.. but boy was that picture stuck good.. the second one I used too little glue and it lifted during cutting.. I also used the 3M-77 with what i thought was just "okay" results.. I don't know what to say about the fuzzys though.. my puzzles got the sander on the back side as they was only one sided puzzles.. Be interesting to see how that works out for you.. Sounds like what Steve suggest is what i did.. but i put a paper towel over the photo before taping the top 1/8" sacrificial BB ply to the good piece.. to help against scratches etc.

I'm not sure what method you're speaking of JT.. I think it was Steve Good site where I got the template from years ago when I did some puzzles.. I glued the photo to the wood.. then I put a layer of paper towel in top of the photo ( after gluing and spraying triple thick glaze over the photo etc ) and then taped the template / pattern waist piece on top of that.. Only issue I had was the bouncing of the pattern board on top of the paper towel did sort of smug the edges of the outer part of the puzzle..( maybe I didn't tape them together tight enough.. I only taped with clear tape just around the edges.. did not wrap in tape..) The blades do tend to leave a very fine and small amount of fuzzys though.. and I don't know how you could really avoid that.. Maybe small enough amount that it's not a very big problem to hand sand a few of the pieces.?

I used Titebond III wood glue to glue my feathers back down.. I should be good for a long time now.. Uh Oh... I hope everyone agrees that Tite bond glue is good... and nothing you posted raised my feathers anyway..

JT, some of the conversation went on behind the scenes via PM's .. Sorry if I've made some confusion of that statement.. I get a lot of PM's and many times I forget if it was posted on the forum or a PM, LOL

Thanks Scott, Gives me something to ponder.. You may be seeing a order from me soon, LOL

Are you selling these patterns or are you just modifying the non-puzzle pattern to make what you need? I'm considering buying a lot of patterns from you maybe the non puzzle so I can make clocks and maybe some of these too.. Like the choice of hooks.. when i sold a few of these in the past I used a wooden dowel type and I wasn't super impressed.. I'm curious about your wall mounting? I see spots counter sunk for screws there on the front side.. anything offered for the back? You supply the screws? Thanks for the feedback.. I'm kinda looking for something to maybe replace my car themed things that I'm possibly fazing out..

It was on the news earlier this year and it's been all over some of the selling forums I belong to about how they are cracking down on this sort of stuff.. I posted that they are doing internet sweeps on etsy and other handmade selling sites.. along with Amazon and Ebay.. I posted a heads up a few weeks ago.. basically my post got mocked and what have you about it.. then some took it personally as if I was calling them out personally and they start asking me if I got permission for this and that.. so be it whatever.. trying to do a nice gesture and heads up to save you're butt in some way and nobody even said a thanks for heads up etc.. Oh well.. Maybe they'll take you seriously.. with this post.. Let me say thank you for taking the time to give another heads up.. These copyright holders are not messing around.. I'm quite surprised that they didn't take the automotive logos.. logos of anything is a big NO.. My car clocks I'm working to sort of faze out.. but they could fall under fair use.. too as with maybe the logos.. either way.. I'll be selling what I have and fazing out the stuff.. I had my Harley puzzle taken down but mainly because I used the word Harley to describe it.. However I won't be making more of those either.. Not sure if you make that one of not.. but I'll say.. be careful because Harley don't mess around with it either..

JT, I respect your opinions and value your wealth of knowledge, I guess I get a little touchy on the low end product bashing as many of us start out buying cheap tools.. I started my business with nothing but a freebie scroll saw and even some leftover scraps of plywood and built it up over the years.. When I started out I was using a block of wood and stapled sandpapers to it.. going from that to a power sander was night and day difference.. there is a reason for those HF stores.. not everyone can afford a cheap sander let alone a Festool sander.. I do realize that you get what you pay for.. just as one gets out of business what they put into it.. Everyone has a difference in opinions as to what a good value is.. as someone stated back a few post.. why buy high end stuff that your kids won't cherish.. and would sell for dirt cheep at an estate sale.. For me buying higher end stuff makes a little more sense because I'm business.. but I'm also realistic and do not buy ANYTHING I don't have cash money in hand for the purchase..

Yeah they dull quick and do not last long at all.. especially on plywood.

You're right.. but how can one steer one away from a product they've never used.. just basing their opinion on a product based on the price and the store that it's sold at..

Exactly!! But what gets me about these type of topics is the original poster typically is trying to help out others that are less fortunate by showing others what they think is a bargain and someone comes along and says they’d never buy that or they’d never use that. I look at it as though a cheap HF sander is an upgrade to a piece of sandpaper and your hand. Nothing wrong with buying/owning high end or low end stuff as long as you have the cash to buy it.

I'm not that old yet but I still like to buy low cost things.. unless it's something I intend to use for business that would require a lot of use.. that said i still cannot see $400+ for a random orbital sander.. maybe I'm just not seeing the value as others do in that.. I'm not knocking them in anyway.. If I was retired and rich like some of the others and just scroll for fun to give away my projects.. Sure I'd buy the best.. Maybe.. But I'm feeding a family of 5 and putting one of the kids through college etc etc... I can't afford not to sell my crafts.. as I couldn't afford the wood and electric to run my shop otherwise, LOL So in my eyes.. many of the lower end tools and stores like HF etc.. really appeal to me..for many tools that may end up getting limited use..

So that must mean the Festool must be a 4 speed.. ON, Low, High and Off

If I remember correctly Fein only has one speed? or was it two speed.. the Festool does have two speeds or variable? I do not remember now but last year when i was doing the research on the two.. that was another deciding factor... I have really bad allergies.. not so much to wood dust.. but the wood dust is an irritant to my existing allergies.. so the Hepa would be a plus for me.. even though I'm quite certain I'll still be wearing my mask anyway.. LOL..

Yeah there are many colors in the auto paints that cost $300 for a pint.. and that pint only covers 1-3 panels.. so like a fender and two doors.. That was prices from when I was doing the work 25 years ago, LOL.. Thats not including activators reducers etc.. that's just the can of paint.. and you cannot use it without the activators etc.. So with that said.. you sure don't want to screw it up with cheap sandpaper and end up having to redo the work and buy the supplies again.. In these cases.. it's best to use the best IMO.. My older brother restored a 1971 Nova SS and did top of the line stuff to the whole car but cheaped out on the paint itself.. I tried to tell him he shouldn't use the paint.. He bought a gallon of burgundy for like $75.. normally that'd have cost me about $300 ish.. 2-3 months after painting the car faded to kinda a dark pink looking color.. He had to strip the whole car and start completely over.. Doing a whole car paint job is quite a big job..

The Festool dust exstractor is one of the next tools i intend to buy.. as you said Quality, quiet, and Hepa rated.. I really looked hard at the Fien.. was set to buy because it is quite a lot cheaper.. BUT.. The reviews I read and seen on the NEW models isn't very good at all.. watched a youtube video too and the guy pointed out several cost cutting things they did between the old one he was replacing it with and the new one.. Made my mind up to wait for a Festool.. Yes expensive.. but also quality is there on that brand still.. And the price point isn't that big a difference if you get all the gadgets needed to make it a Hepa vac.. still not "certified" Hepa..If I were just a hobbyist I'd probably go with the Fien..

Most all the info in that video.. I knew and studied at the career center when i studied auto collision repair.. The sanding pad / block is something very important.. I don't find wood nearly as critical or fussy as the autobody world of things.. For instance, I'd never use my $800 spray gun equipment for oil based.. or any based wood finishes for that matter.. With all that said.. I also wouldn't use ANY sanding papers from any store for autobody work.. the oils in your skin by just touching sanding papers can ruin a finish you apply on a car.. so I only buy sealed in a box sanding paper from the actual autobody supply shop.. Not trying to dis- woodwork here in saying this.. but.. I see no reason to spend $100 per box of each grade of sanding paper for my wood projects.. at least fretwork stuff.. maybe actual furniture and pieces made of large surfaced wood.. IF I was getting that technical about wood.. then I would need to sand the inside cuts super smooth so they took the finish the same as the face of the piece too.. So yeah I'm talking fretwork.. not a table or cabinet.. On something like this.. I would use the higher end sanding papers.. still would use a cheaper spray gun.. because any trace of a oil or whatever that gets into my spray gun will absolutely ruin a paint job on a car.. But then.. the average paint job on a table doesn't cost $4000 either.. You mess up a paint job on a car and your out some big money.. and a lot of reworking to get it right.. With all that said.. and the experiences I have with sanding paper.. The sandpaper that HF sells is just as good quality as the Norton brand I buy.. I just so happen to buy Norton brand because it works out cheaper when buying in quantity.. You can say what you want about HF sandpaper... I'll still tell you it's decent sandpaper.. At least the stuff I've used from them... Yes it's not the same stuff as the stuff I get at the Body Shop supply store or the Festool brand stuff.. But as I've said.. I'm not making furniture I'm doing fretwork... So maybe rather than saying what sand paper is good is better to say what sandpaper is good for a particular project.. as the video stated.. some sandpapers are better for certain projects than others.. just as with saw blades..

This seems to be what summertime is about here in Michigan.. I almost hate to leave the house in the summer... ... Funny too because everyone complains about the roads.. then they also complain about the traffic back-ups due to the road work..

You said Norton.. that rung a bell so i looked up what papers I use on Menards site.. that's the stuff I buy.. But I don't see the bulk / box packs like I buy.. Being in the autobody work for a few years.. you sure learn quick what is good sandpaper and what isn't.. we elusively used 3M back in the day.. I know they have some new stuff out there these days... but I've always went to the 3M because that was what I know.. when working on cars... bit pricey for me with the woodwork stuff when the Norton brand works wonders for me and it's cheaper.. Have to watch the 3M stuff though.. they do or did sell a low end paper too so don't be fooled with that stuff.. For some reason... The duragold stuff rings a bell.. maybe what HF sells? I know the stuff they sell is about as good as the Norton that I use.. I know because I was using it up until about two years ago.. Just because it's sold at HF doesn't make it junk or cheap.. Buying bulk boxed Norton is cheaper per sheet than HF stuff is the only reason I changed.. https://www.menards.com/main/paint/sandpaper-abrasives/power-tool-sandpaper-abrasives/norton-reg-5-8-hole-hook-sand-trade-sanding-disc-6-pack/50177-038/p-1444423450444-c-14240.htm?tid=4724280280341260904&ipos=11

I wasn't knocking HF at all.. I have a ton of tools from them that has served me real well.. I've used their sandpaper and I found it to be the best paper I can get locally short of the Auto Body supply shop.. But.. you pay a VERY premium price for that stuff too.. I'm currently using a brand I picked up a whole big box of from Menards.. actually I bought every brand Menards sold to give them a try.. None of them are as good as the stuff I used in the past from HF... But.. buying those my the box (50 I think in a box ) it works out cheaper than HF packages.. so i been using this stuff for about 2 years now.. While talking about sand paper.. I was at my local lumber supplier and noticed they carry Freud brand sandpaper that is what I though reasonable priced.. IF you buy the large boxes.. Not sure if anyone has tried them but.. I might give them a try when i run out of paper.. Can't remember the brand I get from Menards that I like.. it's blue color papers and in a white / blue box.. seems to be good stuff.. the Master Force brand is the worst I've used yet..