kmmcrafts

At my local supplier this morning and run across this. Anyone seen these before? I don’t keep up with the tools all that well so maybe this has been around for years. It’s like a drum sander but with strips of sandpaper.

Was hoping one of you all would tell me But since nobody spoke up here is a start.. http://copyright.universityofcalifornia.edu/use/obtaining-permission.html I believe most of the things we make and sell would fall under the Fair Use but I'm looking into it a little more now that I have my CNC just about ready to run production I somewhat have permission from Ford and GM.. but it's in a round about way.. and is only because I am friends with some of the High up white collars that work at both.. They've gave me permission.. I had a Ford clock taken down and once I mentioned the permission from ***** I was cleared.. That said though.. I intend to go through this process outside of these people I know sort of deal.. Because it's not a written statement etc.. or the "real" way to go about it.. If nothing else.. I'll be fazing out my car themed clocks so I'm not in wonderland.. wondering if it's really legal.. if I really have permission from these white collar workers I know etc etc.. For what it's worth I'll say I've had my 3 strikes on etsy but they never shut my shop down.. maybe because my 3 was spread out over 5-7 years.. My first was because I used the work Cummins in describing a truck clock.. My second was because I used the word Navy to describe the sign I have.. but then some how that one got cleared without me ever contacting them.. I was told it was wrongfully cleared.. I wasn't arguing with then.. then my 3dr was about 10 months ago for a Mustang clock.. which was cleared because of my round about permission.. LOL.. As I said previously... I merely brought this topic up more of a heads up for some of the others online sellers to think about.. I know I have questionable things up.. and maybe the others do as well.. I'm working to either A) looking into legal permission for my items OR B) fazing out those items as they sell I won't be putting them back up..

Yes I've mentioned this before.. and most people through my questions out the window.. As I've said.. there is a big difference selling your items at the local craft shows as opposed to selling online..

Yes

Pretty sure the Sharktooth saw blades are the same as FD? Are you using the spirals or flat blades? The spirals are a little finicky for tension and do break easily..

If I would take the time to learn and run that CNC I could route out the whole clock and the hole for the insert, LOL I'm workin on learning it.. Also doing about 2 times the business this year so far over last.. so my time keeps getting more limited.. at some point I need to do this learning.. it's like having hired an employee without paying them once the machine earns it's keep.. Anyway I think I'm going to try painting the BB as you said.. something I've been wanting to try doing.. I'm not a huge fan of painting wood.. but some backers on rojects do look very nice painted.. those that don't look good are mostly because of poor prep sanding etc for the paint..

Dave do you recess the clock motor or just hang it off the back? I don't have a problem drilling the small holes for the clock movements like you use and like I used in this photo of one of my clocks.. This is cut from 1/8 BB and have a 1/4 Walnut ply backer... I may buy some 1/2 BB and paint or stain it.. I like the look of the walnut ply.. But I think if I went thicker walnut ply then the edges would be seen more and give a cheap look to it.. at least BB ply has a solid striped wood look to it compared to the cheap plywood like I been using.. I've been thinking of using a clock insert as opposed to just the motor and hands. so I'd need to drill a 3" hole with a forstner bit.. that's a big bit for a hand drill, LOL The gun clock is an example of the inserts I'd like to try using on some of the bigger clocks.. What glue do you use to glue the painted backer? or stained for that matter? any issues with glue holding? I've always been a little sketchy on gluing to painted surface.. was always told to only glue wood to wood with wood type glues..This is why you'll see about all my projects are walnut backers.. LOL

Right Travis.. This is why I say.. even if your item isn't necessarily a copyright image.. using a trademarked name such as Tim McGraw or other star or famous person in your title or description according to etsy's terms of use.. they have the right to remove the item and also if you have three or more of them or get three warnings.. they have the right to shut down you're shop.. and block you from etsy all together as a seller or buyer. They will shut you down and also shut down and block anyone with the same IP address... At least etsy gives you 3 chances.. eBay and Amazon will do it on the 1st offence.. Lot's of people on these venues breaking those TOU laws and copyright laws every day.. it's only a matter of time as to when they find it... and shut down these shops.. I've only mentioned this post mainly because I know there are etsy sellers here on this site.. also know some have materiel or wording that is questionable.. I'm not a person that will directly contact them and say something primarily it's really non of my business.. But I will post a discussion about it hoping that some see my postings and think about the things they sell and the wording they use... While on this topic.. selling on a venue like etsy that gives you a warning is a blessing.. because basically what happens is they just remove your infringing listing and you have the option to contact the copyright holder for further info on it etc.. But if you sell on your own website and get a message from the copyright folks you get to deal with them personally... imagine that wouldn't be very fun at all.. and probably costly too..

I can't remember if I asked this before yet or not.. Okay so I've been on a roll with making some wall clocks.. I've been cutting these out of 1/8 BB plywood.. and got quite a stack of clocks now that need backers.. What I normally did in the past was to cut the backers out of 1/4" Walnut plywood and use a clock movement with hands etc.. However the clock movement sticking out the back made the clock sit out away from the wall.. Not horrible looking but not what I consider a top quality clock either.. On one had I liked it because I could stack cut 3 of the 1/8" and then before I cutout the outline I could tape the 3 Walnut blanks to the stack and cut all these clocks and backers at once... makes for a fairly quick wall clock making process.. But as I said.. I think they'd look a whole lot better with recessing the movement at least some.. and actually my new clocks I'm making to replace the sold out ones with I'm considering using large clock inserts.. I think they would look a lot better than just the hands etc.. If I do these with inserts, I would run into a issue.. I have a small drill press and the wall clocks are quite large 10 - 12" diameter.. so I would have to drill with the bug 3" forstner bit with my hand drill, LOL.. Not sure that would be a very wise move.. The other issue I have is.. I normally use Walnut as a backer for color contrast.. I'd need to do these ( IMO ) from a solid wood to get a nice look on the edges of the cutout backer.. Now.. finding 10 - 13" wood isn't a huge deal but in talking solid walnut a board like that gets quite pricey.. I could do glue ups which would allow me to use some of the walnut lumber I already have.. What are some other ideal and options to make a nice backer? I'm not against painting them but I also don't like the idea of gluing a painted backer to the clock face cutout.. But.. I really have considered two things since walnut lumber is quite pricey. I don't have a lot of experience in staining.. but had thought about using Poplar or pine? and staining the backers or buying 3/4" plywood and painting.. Since these are items I'm selling and trying to keep the cost down on the finished clocks.. I'm not really wanting to get too involved with glue ups and staining, LOL as those both are much more added time.. but I'm not looking to make a crappy looking clock either.. so I may end up just raising my prices about $20 and make a nice clock.. If you was making wall clocks that needed backers etc in this situation.. how would you go about making them with keeping production time in mind and I like to keep things streamlined and easy.. Not looking to do 30 different colors and giving customers a 100 choices to choose from LOL I like it simple.. If that makes any sense.. Oh.. If I did paint... It'd be via spray cans.. I'm not fooling with brushes and brush cleaning etc etc... Might consider doing several 30-50 at once and using my spray equipment. though..

I don't think the rubber handles will help much but I could be wrong.. Back in high school my friends car was running bad.. his dad told us to take a plug wire off one at a time until we found what cyl. was misfiring.. We said no way we are doing that.. so his dad said get the rubber handled pliers and do it.. we refused again.. so he was talking crap about us being chicken to to it and said he'd do it then... we warned him.. he got nailed with it.. jumped and hit his head on the car hood etc.. But like an idiot went right back in for more.. He finally got the wire off.. but after than he had us hut down the car first, Thanks for the old funny memory. For what it's worth.. those rubber pliers handles was more of a plastic.. I'm not sure that a real rubber handle may help? I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig to try it though.. Maybe rubber gloves and the whole works will work.

Got a chuckle out of your comment.. While there is iron in the picture.. it looks mostly made from wood..

I wonder that too sometimes.. but with this computer age stuff.. I'm guessing it's more along the lines of a CNC or Laser that will eventually take over the scroll saw.. I think probably before the treadle saw was just a hand copping saw?

My first puzzle I made I used too much glue and too thick on the board.. when I picked it up to move it my thumb sunk into the picture and made a dimple.. I never had lifting issue with this one.. My second puzzle I used too little glue but was nice and smooth.. however the glue was too lightly applied and also lifted off in several spots... I finally did it right on the last puzzle I made.. But I have to say.. I've never had issues with patterns lifting off while cutting.. and I think the 3M -77 would spray more evenly.. I'd either spray the photo quite wet or spray both the wood and the photo and stick it down quite wet.. Lacquer scratches quite easily.. and is quite thin film.. I think the triple thick glaze would protect better than the Lacquer. With the thicker layer if some areas did smudge a little one could probably clean it up with some buffing as one would do for smudges on a car..

LOL that would make a tricky puzzle, as you wouldn't know what picture is on what side.. Great idea.. I have only made a handful of them.. thought it'd be something I'd really like to make.. but.. just wasn't as satisfying as I thought it'd be.. There is a local craft guy that shows up at our local wood expo.. This guy is an awesome wood burner ( pyrography ) and he combines his wood burning skills and scroll sawing skills.. He burns a portrait and then cuts it up into puzzles.. the thing is.. they way he cuts and burns the image you cannot even tell it's a puzzle and cannot see any puzzle cutting lines in his work.. many folks go up to puck up a woodburned portrait only to get one of the pieces.. some folks thought they had broke it I've got the nice Detail Master wood burning kit with a whole bunch of different pens etc.. just never got into it like I thought I would

That's a very interesting set up.. I'm sure it would come in handy for many Excalibur users..

https://forum.scrollsawer.com/forum/scroll-saw/scroll-saw-puzzles/32116-carters-method-tutorial

I get into Texas every few years as my father in-law is from Texas.. He is in Nixon sometimes stay in Seguin somewhat familiar with that area and San Antonio as Sister inlaw lives in San Antonio.. plus many of the towns we go through along the drive to get to Texas from Michigan..

Thank you Marg, I make my own finish with Beeswax and mineral oil.. No drying time and no smells to get the mail lady high, LOL

I'll try to answer some of the questions.. The name of the person doing those puzzles was Carter Johnson I believe.. I think he past away a few years ago? Anyway he helped me with my first puzzle cutting.. and he recommended just free hand cutting. I'll get to that in a minute.. I think he recommended using Arleen's (SP) Tacky Glue... Kinda reminds me of wood glue.. anyway you spread it out evenly on the 1/4 BB and put you're picture, card, etc on the glued board then use a credit card or a roller to press it down and get the air bubbles out etc... Many others back in the day said the 3M 77 works real well too.. I used both and I think the spray works easier.. After applying the picture they always top coated with Triple Thick Clear Glaze.. Basically thick clear paint. Now I think it was Carter that did all those puzzles free hand ( no pattern or guidelines and encouraged others to try it this way.. Some mentioned to draw a square grid on the back.. I tried both ways with poor results, LOL But I think if I had gave it a try with some practice maybe after a couple tries I'd have the pieces somewhat similar in size.. I did this when I was quite new to scrolling so it's been 12-15 years ago.. Now that I'm more experienced I feel I could do it better without the pattern... I seen somewhere ( think it was Steve Good ) where they have some puzzle patterns.. also think ARPOP has some on his blog page. Anyway someone ( think Steve ) mentioned putting a soft paper towel between the top sacrificial 1/8 piece and the picture to protect the image because even with the edges taped tight with the stack.. light vibration will mar up the photo image.. I did this and it worked quite well.. Yes you want to use the FD Superior Puzzle Blades.. Nobody ever mentioned anything about sealing up the wood at all.. and to my understanding the back side it left alone too.. as many people do this as wedding guestbooks etc.. and leave it so they can be signed etc... Jim is correct.. I use the 12 x 12 shrink wrap bags.. You can put in the puzzle and any other info.. I put a business card and a Choking hazard warning paper that I just print.. and then I use a hair drier.. I have a heat gun but haven't tried using it since it's always put away in the bottom of my tool chest.. and the hair drier has much easier access, LOL Have fun with it.. I hope I answered all the questions but if not ask again, LOL

Maybe this will help? https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/231713

I finally took some time off of scroll sawing and repairing cars / mowers and all the other household things and finished assembling the CNC, hooked up all the wires / cables etc.. Set up my water cooler bucket with RV antifreeze and plumbed the tubing to the spindle and to the coolant pump.... Turned it on and registered the unit.. toyed around a bit with it even though I have no idea what I'm doing, LOL... I messed with a drawing in the V-carve software that came with it.. that itself was a adventure, LOL Glad I have a little experience with patterns for the scroll saw using inkscape.. that helped a lot.. but sure a lot more to figure out.. I have the touch plate but for the life of me I can't figure out how to set it up.. Going to watch the set up videos again.. I watched them back in the winter but then got busy with other things and after several months I guess I need a bit of a refresher, lol

Thank you, It's going to Reno.. Not sure here that is.. but pretty sure I've sent stuff there before.. I've been thinking for a year about getting a map and marking places I've sent stuff to... Could be fun.. I know I've sent out to most all the states now.. quite a few different countries too..

Order came in last night.. made it this morning.. mail it out tomorrow when the glue dries and put the finish on in the morning then on it's way.. Hopefully get it all packaged before my mail delivery driver shows up.. Steve Good pattern Cut from Red Oak on the new Hawk.. with a #3 FDUR blade..

Great cutting on them all... I really like the "Be Humble and Kind" Is that a Keith Fenton Pattern? I think I seen it somewhere and wanted to cut it.. but now I don't remember where I seen it.

Thank you Marg.. I really had fun with this one because my inlaws had beagles... so it just kinda hit home with me I guess.. I have Great Danes s maybe that will be next, LOL