kmmcrafts

I don't think changing up the recipe would make a huge difference in the outcome of the finish.. but I don't know that for a fact because I've never really changed it up before.. What type of finish do you typically use? Some people like a shiny look to wood and achieve it by spraying coatings onto the wood such as Polyurethane and Lacquer etc.. This look you will not achieve using the Beeswax Mineral oil mix.. I've always used Danish Oil or 50/50 BLO / Mineral spirits mix.. The smells from these finishes prevents me from being able to mail items out in a timely manor.. Then I found the Beeswax mix.. The beeswax mix gives the same type look with actually a little more of a warm glow to it than the other two finishes I use.. But applying the Beeswax mix is somewhat of a tedious job.. so when at all possible I use Danish oil.. My wife gets mad at me for using the Danish oil because she thinks the Beeswax mix looks and feels better on the wood.. Just the easiest way is dipping in Danish oil so most projects get Danish oil unless I'm mailing it out in a day or two.. When I build inventory I use Danish oil.. But orders that come in needing made or custom orders etc.. get the beeswax.. I've had repeat customers that notice the warmer glow on the beeswax over the Danish oil.. Mostly just noticed on the inside cuts where I do not sand them to a fine grit paper.. I personally started out using spray finishes years ago.. but could never get a satisfaction of getting a finish to look like natural wood.. some of the sprays come out and make the wood look like its's coated in plastic etc.. Everyone has a different taste for shines / luster/ warm glow / Gloss/ Semi Gloss / Satin etc etc.. The beeswax is more of a natural look while protecting the wood in a natural non-toxic way with no strong smells..

Great work as always... I love it when people use a pattern and modify it to work into something else.. My modified patterns are typically clocks or ornaments... He has a lot of patterns I've been thinking would make a nice clock.. I just been way to busy with orders to really do much of anything new lately.. probably slow down now that Fathers Day is only a week away..

Yes, I do.. But the place I go is about 30 mile each way.. and good country road almost all the way there.. I get about 1 mile of city drive to get to the place and the city drive isn't even crowded.. I live in Michigan not California .. Government allows me $0.55 a mile for business.. My wife and daughter like to go because they have a couple thrift shops right near by that they like to shop at.. Only takes about 20-25 minutes to get there.. I almost took a job at the place last year.. They hired me but I declined the offer.. since the schedule they hired me for was every Fri-Mon. and the pay was worst then I make just playing around in my shop and my online store, LOL.. Getting up to their top pay would have been more like what I make in the shop and that would take a couple years to get to that plus.. I'd have to spend money on gas etc to get there.. I do very little driving for business.. at best about 800 mile a year..

I haven't had much time for any new projects yet.. well that's sort of a lie.. I've been real busy with several custom orders in the last couple weeks.. Mostly fathers day gives.. I ran a paid ad on FB and Instagram and the sales from this 15 day ad has been kicking my behind, LOL Anyway I squeezed a little time to get this clock made just because I thought it was cool.. Hope everyone is enjoying some saw dust making time..

Hmmm... $12 a 5' x 5' 1/8" sheet for me.. I've often thought about buying bulk for better pricing and chunk it up and sell it online.. Maybe I need to start another store online for scroll saw goods.. LOL

I also should mention.. You might not have broke the clamp.. it may very well have just fallen apart.. If you can find all the pieces you may be able to put it back together.. also.. they sometimes will have the individual pieces available.. and might be able to buy all the pieces and put a new clamp together.. Just a thought..

Since you said it exploded into pieces.. I'm assuming it have the old style quickset ll blade clamps on it.. They are no longer available.. That said.. New packs of replacements show up on eBay quite often.. also.. watch garage sales for used parts saws etc.. many times a saw will be lightly used and only $25 - 50. if you get the right model saw they used that clamp on both top and bottom so then you'd have a replacement and a spare, LOL There is also a guy online that sells NOS Delta parts.. you might check with him.. Site is www.mikestools.com If I remember correctly since its been about 15 years ago I restored my fathers old saw that he wore out.. and he was a source for parts for the old saw..I keep that old saw around just because it's his first saw and it is a keepsake of one of his favorite saws that I keep in memory of him.. Best of luck finding one.. You'll find one sooner or later but you might want to just get a new saw.. since parts are getting hard to find for them..

Okay, the piece that I had I did end up using.. been so long I forgot I looked all over the place in my wood storage area and couldn't find it.. then laying in bed last night ( instead of sleeping ) I thought about it and remembered using it on the bandsaw box I made.... .. I used it in this bandsaw box I made a few years ago,, The two strips surrounding the one in the middle is the sassafras..

Yeah I was thinking the same thing.. The couple pieces I had was darker than that and not much grain marks in it.. smelled sort of like root beer with cutting it, LOL

I don't see it very often.. I got a couple pieces of it from my brothers mill a couple years ago.. Cuts like butter, LOL.. I'm not sure if I still have some or not.. If so I could probably mail it to you because I just don't use much wood if it's not a real common wood.. I hate retaking photos because I changed up the wood types.. That's why you see me staying with most projects being cherry.. I got a awesome deal years ago on a bunch of cherry lumber.. I'm going out to look and see if I have any... Another wood type similar ( I think ) might be Beech? Others will probably know better than I.. But I have some beech and sassafras and I thought they looked close to the same... Un-finished anyway.. LOL

Beautiful work JT!..

Same reason I use a trash bag over wax paper JT.. The bags I use have a texture to them so the glue does get some air pockets etc.. but also like I mentioned.. you gotta spread the glue out thin or you'll get squeeze out.. I also use the clear formula of Titebond glue.. and use a tooth pick to kinda scrap away any squeeze out I can before it dries.. after the first couple getting squeeze out you sorta get a feel for how much glue you need.. Everyone is going to have their own personal way of doing it.. I also like JT's way of doing this and may also try that.. still have a hard time with the sprays though... as JT said and I also say.. sprays are going to land on areas you may not want them to.. and no way around that short of masking them all off.. and that is way too much masking..

Does take some practice on how thick you spread the glue out.. You want it really thin layer then dip the back onto the spread out glue.. first couple times I did get some squeeze out.. also have to be quick moving if you have several to glue up at a time because the thin layer of glue will dry quick too.. This is why I've considered the spray adhesive..but being a spray painter in the auto industry makes me aware of the stuff being sprayed is going to get everywhere.. maybe on these fret edges it is so minimal that i doesn't affect it at all? I don't know.. can assure you it's getting a small layer of spray on the cutout areas.. but not sure if it'll be a problem or not.. I'm going to do this on some not so detailed fretwork to try it myself.. Might be my new method LOL..

Glad you tried it and it worked for you. I've often thought about trying that but after hours of work and not wanting it to get into the cutout edges etc. I didn't want to risk ruining my project.. I've heard of others doing it this way.. just could never bring myself to try it.. Dipping the project into the thin layer of glue is been the best method I've found thus far for me.. may get brave and try the spray adhesive one day.. LOL Just curious what type spray did you use? Not all those sprays are good strong adhesive..

I've seen people sell those at a pretty high price on eBay.. They listed them by ( In yearly sets ) the year.. You should be able to mail those pretty cheap if you used Media mail rather than Priority etc.. and not sure how many you could fit into a flat rate priority box.. but that would be another way.. fixed shipping of like $13-14 the box is free from the post office and is a 12 x 12 x 5 inch.. First though.. I'd try putting them on the Facebook marketplace or craigslist.. I tend to like the FB Marketplace better.. but anyway.. never know someone could be interested right in the area.. Pretty sure they'd do pretty good on eBay if you're willing to fuss with shipping..

I get that sometimes with the BB ply too.. I sorta think it's more to do with the part of the tree the wood was from.. ie Sap wood or heart wood.. or maybe it's worded the outer most part of the tree or the inner part.. whatever the case.. I don't think it's something to do really so much with one side or the other or if there is a front and back side.. .. I may be wrong about that.. I'm just sayin that.. my BB ply is this way sometimes.. BTW... Nice cutting!

Was just going to say.. I think that light is the same as mine.. and they do work pretty well.. I always thought.. but I do see a difference in the lens from this style one I have from the one I got with one of my used saws.. The one that came with one of my used saws has a better lens.. NOW.. it's not so much better that I'd spend 300 to get a better one, LOL.. There was a big bg improvement when I put this LED bulb in it.. Only figured that out because I had the light too close to the upper arm on the Hawk and I snapped the blade..arm came up and broke my bulb.. Like the LED so well I bought another.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-inch-Circline-T9-Daylight-6000K-LED-Relamp-Fluorescent-FC8T9-Bulb/222261066257?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I use Titebond lll and also use the "clear dry formula" on some things.. Have used gorilla wood glue in the past with good results.. Also to mention.. I never glue wood to a painted wood backer.. I always just use a contrasting wood for backers.. or foam sheet backers for color

The one I use is 3X power.. https://www.menards.com/main/lighting-ceiling-fans/indoor-lighting/lamps/desk-lamps/patriot-lighting-reg-apollo-45-h-black-1-light-magnifier-desk-lamp/tb1306b/p-1444438446926-c-1531402259058.htm?tid=6557255150905875137&&ipos=1 The one that came with my used Hawk I believe is the same 3X but I have no way of knowing for sure.. The lens on the one that came with my Hawk saw is much clearer view.. mostly around the edges.. I really think that is the same power just better quality lens.. I replaced all but one of my light bulbs with LED bulbs.. That made a huge difference.. I need to take the thing apart and see if the lens comes out.. I've often thought maybe I could just buy quality lenses for what I have.. This is the issue of having 4 saws that I regularly use.. I'd need 4 of those lights.. Especially if they are really that much better.. LOL I do swap one of my lights around once in a while because it is better.. but it's only that much better because of the LED bulb.. since one of my lights still has the Florescent bulb.. I'm going to order a new LED for that one soon..

I use a plastic trash bag.. apply glue to the trash bag then spread it around with a plastic body filler spreader real thin.. then I dip the project into the glue and press it around.. lift it off the bag and set it onto the backer.... They say wax paper works well.. I don't have any of that.. and the plastic trash bag works well and also works as a bench cover.. or in my case.. I glue up my stuff on a chest freezer in the house..

One of my 6 brothers moved to FL two years ago because his wife has had really bad back issues and the cold didn't help it any.. he was bragging about to the rest of us northerners about how he'll have nice weather for riding his new Harley etc.. They moved late fall and all winter long he was posting pictures of their nice weather etc etc.. bragging about getting in the pool etc in the winter.. I finally said on one of his FB postings about how his pool will be a hot tub in the summer.. Anyway, his bragging came to a screeching halt after they really got their summer that first year.. Now the only posting I see him do it more complaining about the heat, humidity, and the hurricanes etc.. and too dang hot to ride his Harley.. LOL Glad he at least enjoyed the first late fall / winter though... LOL When the wife and I retire I've always said I'll never move south for a permanent home but would consider somewhere in between.. We both say Tennessee and or a winter home and a northern home.. I could be okay with staying in FL from Mid - Late Nov.- Late March.. probably more like Jan - April because I like the snow for Christmas time.. usually had enough of it by mid Jan - Feb.. LOL

Thanks for the nice comments everyone.. Guess they went well with customers too.. Not even on the website a full day and they both are sold.. Guess those Fathers Day shoppers finally hit the internet and people are buying gifts.. Sold 5 clocks so far today a few yesterday and a few the day before.. Been working out in the shop today since not much going on and yet again.. raining.. Cut out 5 clocks so far today.. heading back out right now to do a little more work before I call it a day..

I'm going to buy one of those once I get my funds recovered from buying a new/used Jeep for my wife.. I've heard from several folks on the message boards about these.. I can certainly tell a difference just between my cheapy ones and the one that came with my Hawk Ultra a few years back.. I sometimes move the one "better" one I have from saw to saw if I'm going to be using it regularly for a while.. Putting LED bulbs in my older lights helped a ton but there is still the lens quality issue..

Interesting you say that... because the Pegas I have and have used for over a year now.. are all longer than the flying dutchman blades I had been using.. Those last few gross I bought last winter that had the notch in them... yeah.. those are even longer yet.. and I almost always break the #5's but rarely break a number 3 on the Hawk.. yet I rarely have any breakage on the Ex or the DeWalt before i sold it.. They all break at that notched out part.. So I had been either just using the 3's on the Hawk or switching to FD blades.. or just use the EX...

Had the same issue one time with those Pegas.. what solved my problem was I took the blade out and put it back in right side up, LOL Otherwise I've never had an issue with them..