kmmcrafts

Few years ago I was at an estate sale that had some Hegners.. I passed on them and later after the sale since i knew the people running the sale they forgot to give the boxes of parts and blades with the saws when they sold them.. someone got a deal anyway as three saws were $40 each.. Yeah I passed for some reason, anyway after the sale they found this box of saw blades and parts and just gave it to me.. I don't know the sizes they were but biggest I ever used was a #7 and these made those look small.. Only about 6 years later would that box come in handy when another estate sale had a much newer Hegner for $50. Got there and it was missing the clamps.. which I had in the box of stuff given to me. I talked to the guy and said I couldn't even test it and it's no good without those to me.. He ended up offering it to me free.. said it was either I take it or it was going to be thrown into the big dumpster he was filling up. Obviously I took it.. Anyway back to those blade.. no lie they looked almost as big as the one in the picture you posted.

https://woodcraftbyscott.com/collections/scroll-saw-patterns/products/puzzle-patterns-vehicles-sports-musical-instruments?variant=5409811431439 I think they're also available on woodenteddybear.com

My wall clocks are 8, 10, and 12" diameter. I stack cut the face from 1/8" BBply 4 at a time.. I then stack cut 4 1/4" at a time for the backer added to the stack so they're cut at the same time. While i don't sell too many wall clocks anymore I still do this about 4 times a year. Use to go through 2-3 FD-UR blades to do this but now that I switch to Pegas MGT blades I typically can cut this with 1 blade. Usually a #5 or #7.. I usually cut these thicker stacks on the Excalibur as it is a bit more aggressive cutting than the Hawk. I've never worked with Elm so I don't know the density of it. But years ago I agreed to make some BigRig puzzles out of 7/8 Hickory and hard Maple.. I'll never agree to something like that again.. no matter how much money offered. These are about 13" long I think.. but when making them from these materials I think they're 13 ft, .. I still think the customer was probably someone that scroll saws and knows their lumber.. probably a member here playing a mean joke and they did it so they could read about it on the forums here.

I ended up cutting the board in half and made a cutting board out of the darker half.. going to make another board out of the other half too. I don't have any photos of the cutting board just yet but I do have it oiled and drying and boy does it make a nice looking board.. I used dark walnut and sandwiched this cherry in the middle. I'll take some photos and post them in a few days.. hopefully if I don't forget, LOL..

Yes very true, I pretty much do the same thing.. though I do plain it so most of the rough cut portion is smoothed out.

Keep us posted if it works and if not what you end up doing to make it work, as the info might help someone else someday.

Ohh okay, Yeah written word is many times hard to interpret what your trying to say. After looking at some web photos of the saw it looks to me like it'd be really easy to shim the table to get this corrected.. That is kinda what many folks did back in the day with the Dewalt saws that had this issue. Looks like you could just remove the bolts to the table and place some washers or shims to raise the table where needed.

I totally understand the app as I have used it in the past to find what vacuum dust collection system would work best for my needs that was affordable.. You see there comes a point and time where rather than buy the most quite can get way overpriced when comparing it to say... a set of noise canceling headphones or something along those lines. My whole point of my last reply was not to do with the app.. but more to do with the fact that everyone's saw and stand set up is going to be different and asking what the quietest one is is going to be subjective to their set up.. Like I said.. I have a Excalibur that depending on my saw set up can run very loud or very quest same saw different set-up... so my point was.. you may find many different answers on the subject from people all with the same saw... the only "real way" I can see you get this info is to buy several saws and then set them up how you like to cut and run the test.. because asking everyone here is going to net a wide variety of answers because not everyone sets up their saws the same way.. and has been mentioned.. the material you're cutting and the blade choice used is likely going to be louder than the saw itself.. at least of the 8-10 different saws I've had and used over the years this would be the case.. all the saws I've had are very quiet like a sewing machine until you start cutting. Not to mention that many saws start out new very quiet and as they get older and start to wear out they get pretty darn noisey when the grease in the bearings start to dissipate and you end up with knocking sounds and whatnot. Of all the saws I have had my 3 Hawks and Hegner are the quietest. The Hawks air puffer ( bellows ) blowing air is louder than the rest of the saw.. you can hear the air puffing out the hose more than the motor or mechanics of the saw.. so my Hegner is also that way.. The Excalibur is pretty darn quiet but not that quiet.. again.. the actual cutting is what is noisey.. and no two blades sound the same against various materials.. and even same wood materials as wood grain and moisture content also plays a role in the sound.. hard and soft spots in the wood as you cut make louder or softer sounds.. If you're worried about protecting kids ears then I suggest investing in some earplugs or something along those lines.. and worry more about that fine sawdust that the saw creates while cutting that goes airborne.

Hmm, Are you saying if you cut a straight line and want to back up slightly you can't because the blade front to back is out of alignment? This shouldn't cause you not to back up.. Now, if the blade was out of whack side to side yes.. Is the blade when clamped in in the center of each clamp? I could see that causing this especially if they are way out off center.. such as the top one all the way to one side and the bottom one all the way on the opposite side and depending on the position of the stroke could put the blade in a bind.. This is also a problem with the blade heating up and slightly expanding the metal of the blade thus pinching it in the kerf even more. Would think the blades wouldn't last as long too.

Oh Boy.. There would be way too many factors into this question I don't see it possible to get a accurate reading from a wide range of people.. First and foremost you'd have to start with the saw set-up and tuning. If I adjust my Excalibur to cut more aggressively it gets louder.. same saw different set-up.. not to mention whether or not the saws stand it planted firmly to the floor.. a slight vibration will create a louder noise from the saw.. I don't see any practical way to really measure the sound. Just my opinion.

I've not been around to see one of these in person.. but have seen photos of them, unfortunately all the photos never show a good view of the saws motor and how it is mounted. I've always wondered if they have this adjustment like most of the other short link arm saws except DeWalt and Delta. Most these saws the motor is mounted with a ring around it and the bolts go through some slots.. In order to adjust the front to back movement on most of these is to loosen those three bolts just enough to move the motor and then rotate what I do is put the saw on the lowest speed and with the square behind the blade I run the saw and rotate the motor in those slots.. until I get it with the least amount of movement. I don't know if the WEN has this style system or not.. I'm guessing it's price point and build is to compete more with the DeWalt so it probably doesn't have this option.. Some of the first type 2 Dewalts had a terrible issue with this after they moved production to another location and they got a bad name for the type 2 saws because of this. There were guys doing modifications as JT said... IF the saw is under warranty you might want to just take it back, could be a flaw in it that is making this cut more aggressively than you like. For precise cutting I would not own one of these saws that could not be adjusted for the blade aggression. I believe the two cheapest saws that can adjust the motor is going to be Excalibur or the newer Grizzly otherwise you're looking at the expensive Jet,Pegas and Seyco etc..

I was thinking they was all the same but wasn't 100% sure as I never made one.. was one of those things that was on my to do list that never happen... Yet.. Thanks for clarifying that JT

I think this is the topic from a few years ago that might have what you're looking for?

Check out this grain on this cherry board. I was needing a piece of cherry for a project and only thing I have around here for cherry is all rough cut. Hard to see what the grain actually looks like in rough cut but I’m not using this for my scroll saw project after seeing this grain. Thinking about a couple cutting boards with walnut on both sides and this cherry being the center or making it as a table. What would you do with it? It’s only about 5.5 inch wide after edging it and there is a bad spot on one edge that either would have to edge another 1/2 off or plane it down another 1/4 inch.

Yeah, mine vibrates / shakes quite a lot in that same speed range. I don't run mine full speed but somewhere between the full speed and that vibration area, LOL.. I'm guessing it to be right around the 1500spm is where I run my saws. The old 1993 saw I run full speed as that one tops out at 1500spm.. as does the Excalibur which I also run full speed. I started scrollsawing on a old single speed saw which was 1500spm so that may be why that is my speed of comfort... actually it was a two speed saw but low was way to slow and while just learning 1500 was a bit on the fast side but I dealt with it and it's where I like to be at now days.. I often wonder how the BM20 compares to the BM26.. that extra length in the arms moving I'm sure give a more pronounced vibration or maybe that harmonic balance is at a different speed range on the smaller saw.. was always kinda curious about that. In some ways I wished i'd have went with the 20" saw since I have the 226VS Ultra anyway for those larger projects.

That nylon washer to prevent the rear adjustment from moving never worked for me very well on either the old 1993 220vs or the 1998 226VS Ultra and again on the new BM26 saw.. I'm not sure if I'm getting some oil on it or what but that has never worked well for keeping the tension from moving on any of my saws.. I'd have to replace the washer every month or so which is cheap I guess and maybe they don't last very long.. What does work for me is a drop or two of "blue" loctite on the threads of the rod.. this allows me to still turn it, though a bit stiff the first couple times I need to adjust it sometimes need to hold the rod with some pliers while I turn the knob. But after the first few times I can just hold it with my fingers and turn it.. holds just enough to keep the rod from spinning freely but not so tight that it cannot be turned.. That works way better for me so that is what I've always done rather than replace the washer several times a year. I wonder if you have a defective rear tension lever.. seems odd that it just falls over like that.. I've not had that issue with mine. This is my saw straight out of the box before I even tuned it or adjusted the legs as I assembled it out in the middle of my shop floor in the open bay for more room. You definitely have some issues with your saw I think.. This test the nickle did move some as it wasn't fully tuned and set up yet.

Sorry to hear you're having issues with the new saw. I know these saws are very picky about blade tension and will break blades very easily but you coming from a older Hawk shouldn't be having that issue.. I don't know your tuning capabilities but could the vibration issues be the stand legs not firmly planted to the floor? I know all my Hawks are very picky about the legs being firmly onto the floor where it sets at, especially my BM26... IF I move my saw from one spot to another spot more times than not I have to re-adjust the legs for the new spot and I have a pretty smooth flat concrete floor that was professionally done in my new shop. They are built slightly lighter than the old saws but to be honest the older saws was probably over built much like everything else in this world.. Things aren't built like they were 40 years ago, LOL. Being your old saw was from 1992 I assume it had the round barrel style clamps.. I had a 220VS from 1993 that was the round clamps.. I loved that saw and sometimes wish I had kept it. They do take a lot of get used to those clamps and many folks hated those.. it seems people either loved them or hated them. I kinda like them better than the newer style.. I love my new BM26 and the only thing I wish different with it is that it would have a "soft start" where the saw slowly ramps up to speed like the older saws do.. They claim the new saws have a soft start but it's not the same soft start of the older saws.. it's more of a pause start where you hit the switch and it takes a half second to run but when it does it's at full speed of whatever you have set on the speed dial.. I like the old way where it has to take 3-4 blade strokes to get up to speed. But I've grown used to it now I suppose. Been a great saw for me and I've put about 500 hours on it since I bought it back in 2018.. I've not had any issues so far. Hoping they get things squared away for your saw and when you get it back you'll like it better..

I've been using the crap out of this tool.. these campers are built with at least 10,000,000,000 staples and apparently they assemble the cupboards and things before putting the siding on as they are screwed in with screws from the outside underneath the siding. Not only staples and screws but also glued with something like liquid nail.. so basically this tool has been used non stop in this project. That all said we are looking at maybe just getting another camper... But I'm still going to sort of refurbish this either back into another camper or I'm going to make it a small workshop for my lasers and maybe the CNC as well. Who knows but I'm having fun ripping it apart anyway..

Paul, You know I always try to give the best advice I can and I think I have a solution for you with this device here.. won't burn up any electric motors guaranteed.. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1680623041/antique-american-1876-cast-iron-pedal?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-home_and_living-furniture-living_room_furniture-other&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAjwqf20BhBwEiwAt7dtdWwpEDNe3d2hmpa1YrEzi0HyhGkHnVfglhzY9OrYmK-1woYP8cYuWxoCfv4QAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_12570712527_123240177087_507395010691_aud-2007167693469:pla-307001398688_c__1680623041_111184285&utm_custom2=12570712527&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwqf20BhBwEiwAt7dtdWwpEDNe3d2hmpa1YrEzi0HyhGkHnVfglhzY9OrYmK-1woYP8cYuWxoCfv4QAvD_BwE

I've seen this saw quite some time ago and to me it looks like the WEN saw in green instead, LOL.. IF it is the same saw then I've seen a lot of complaints about the motor lacking power to cut through some of the thicker wood.. I think I've even seen some motor failures posted too.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/WEN-WEN-LL2156-21-Inch-1-6-Amp-Variable-Speed-Parallel-Arm-Scroll-Saw-with-Extra-Large-Dual-Bevel-Steel-Table/5012515583?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-PMAX_TOL_000_Priority_Item-_-5012515583-_-online-_-0-_-0&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhvi0BhA4EiwAX25uj_od8okrUKwG6wXINzRW2cZzugkPznZ6KOiNacv6iJodEuY4GOm89hoCfd8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Might be worth watching for a good used saw to pop up on marketplace or craigslist etc.. but if you insist on new.. the Jet 18" saw was priced at one time in between the DeWalt and the Pegas.. Not sure how the prices have changed I'm sure since the couple years ago when I was looking at them.

I'm just guessing but I think he's talking about using a variable speed control foot switch.. much like some of the sewing machines use.. I've heard of people doing this and also heard that some burnt up their motor by doing it.. I don't know enough about this sort of thing but anyway I just wanted to say I believe he means to hook up a variable speed foot controller.

I agree it's probably the same saw as in the photo.. but which photo. I inquired about a truck that was listed on marketplace in Michigan.. person replied that the truck was in San Antonio Texas but they'd deliver it to me for free once I put half the monty down and pay the other half when they get here. LOL.. I said great my family lives in San Antonio and they can just go inspect it and purchase it on the spot as I'm flying down in a couple weeks anyway.. asked for the address etc.. they never responded back.. don't understand why as a sale is a sale and I had cash money to buy it.

Good advice, thank you for bringing that up as this is something I've not thought about. I've only made a couple frames and yes they were basic flat boards..

I know I suck at anything like frame making and I'm sure there are many ways of doing it... and doing it better than I do.. My solution to this was I cut the sides by stack cutting them both with the same cut.. same for the ends.. this ensures both are equal length. Having a stop is also a very good point.. which is what I do as well.. even though I cut them both at the same time.. I still use the stop.

I bought the Bauer from HF tonight.. I bought a couple different styles and sizes of blades too. Just went out and did a test cut a very small area and i think this is going to work perfectly for what I need it for on this job.. just what little I did use it I now can see that this might be another tool that now that I have I'll maybe be using it way more than I originally thought. I never really even looked closely at them before and had no idea how they worked.. Looking at all the different attachments that can be used with this thing really was amazing.. Thanks to all that have given their opinions on this topic.