kmmcrafts

That is wonderful that he is still around. I don't get out into some of the "other scrollsaw forums" like I used to and although a member of most of them I only check in on them every now and then.

Yes I also use the shelf liner.. I don't like the smell of MS.. and don't even keep any around.. Unless I'm cleaning car engine parts.. works great for a degreaser.. LOL.. Never used it for my woodworking though.

If you put your blade in backwards it's not as sharp and won't cut you.. might get a burn though. It also makes a single project last 3 times longer..so you don't go through so much wood.. Glad you had quick reflexes and wasn't worse than it was..

I mostly use full sheet self adhesive shipping labels so it takes me a couple years to use up a can of spray glue. Aside from the nozzle clogging up now I seem to have the can leak down its air pressure so either way I almost always end of tossing out a 1/4 of a can in one way or another.

I think having the quick clamp will help tremendously.. Sounds like a good saw as not all of them were variable speed and the Multimax 18's are perfect size. I might be wrong but I thought I read where you could upgrade those older 18" saws to have the up front tension release? Though probably not cheap as nothing in the Hegner parts line is cheap, LOL

Glad you was able to get it sorted out and working better. Sorry to hear about the storms and what they did.. We've had some strong storms roll through quite a lot more than normal this year.. lots of rain too.. normally the grass is all dried up by July but I've been having to mow 2 times a week to keep up with it... in between the rain, LOL..

No pictures it didn't happen, LOL What model did you get? I'm not certain if the quick clamps are available for the 14" saws but I think you can for the 18" saws.. probably better off to listen to those that have more experience with these than me. I've just never seen the 14" with the quick clamp on it.. Even the newer ones.. I'm thinking the 93 18" models probably don't have the up front tension release either..

Are you saying you want to stack cut three at a time? The way the question is asked is a bit confusing because you say cutting them individually at the end. If you mean you want to stack cut three at a time of each design.. then there are many methods to achieve that. I mostly use either packing tape or painters tape around the edges of the wood blank.. in certain situations I've used short wood screws in waste areas.. such as if the pattern design is going to be a very large cut and the tape around the edges don't hold the center portion very well.. but I don't so that often.. most projects 12 x 18 inch I just use tape around the edges..

I'll try to remember that for the next person that might ask me for the pattern.. This post was 7 years ago and I have no idea if the person that messaged me still needs it or even how to find who that person was now.. just some random message I got from Etsy.. for some reason I get people all the time spamming me for access to patterns of items I have made on there..

I have the full disk of patterns and Paul is 100% correct.. Not ALL patterns are available on that site. I do not sell these but was told "Certain CD's " did have rights to sell them.. I don't know about that and am not chancing it nor would I want to sell any of these anyway.. For what it's worth.. there was no agreement within the download that I received with these designs either.. I purchased the "download" not the CD.. you had a option to get it on disc mailed to you or digital download.. almost seems like the disc was also sold out and was only available in the digital format, but anyway rather than wait for a disc I did the download.. maybe the agreement didn't get bundled with the downloaded files? I don't know, I do know they was only available for a very short time before they (Rick and Karen) sold to Benjamin. Either way I have not sold any of these and don't intend to. P.S. Quoting Len won't get anywhere with him as I don't believe he is with us anymore. He and I communicated quite a lot in PM's and he was pretty rough shape 4 years ago.. I see he hasn't been longed on since 2022.. so I assume he is no longer with us.. EDIT: Just wanted to clarify that I did in fact find the Terms within the downloaded files that the patterns are not to be sold etc.. They was in a folder that you would never expect it to be in.. Probably should have had a "Terms of Use" folder so people could find it. I spend a good 40 minutes to find it and actually had to download a program so my computer would even open the odd file.. Now everyone knows..

Few years ago I was at an estate sale that had some Hegners.. I passed on them and later after the sale since i knew the people running the sale they forgot to give the boxes of parts and blades with the saws when they sold them.. someone got a deal anyway as three saws were $40 each.. Yeah I passed for some reason, anyway after the sale they found this box of saw blades and parts and just gave it to me.. I don't know the sizes they were but biggest I ever used was a #7 and these made those look small.. Only about 6 years later would that box come in handy when another estate sale had a much newer Hegner for $50. Got there and it was missing the clamps.. which I had in the box of stuff given to me. I talked to the guy and said I couldn't even test it and it's no good without those to me.. He ended up offering it to me free.. said it was either I take it or it was going to be thrown into the big dumpster he was filling up. Obviously I took it.. Anyway back to those blade.. no lie they looked almost as big as the one in the picture you posted.

https://woodcraftbyscott.com/collections/scroll-saw-patterns/products/puzzle-patterns-vehicles-sports-musical-instruments?variant=5409811431439 I think they're also available on woodenteddybear.com

My wall clocks are 8, 10, and 12" diameter. I stack cut the face from 1/8" BBply 4 at a time.. I then stack cut 4 1/4" at a time for the backer added to the stack so they're cut at the same time. While i don't sell too many wall clocks anymore I still do this about 4 times a year. Use to go through 2-3 FD-UR blades to do this but now that I switch to Pegas MGT blades I typically can cut this with 1 blade. Usually a #5 or #7.. I usually cut these thicker stacks on the Excalibur as it is a bit more aggressive cutting than the Hawk. I've never worked with Elm so I don't know the density of it. But years ago I agreed to make some BigRig puzzles out of 7/8 Hickory and hard Maple.. I'll never agree to something like that again.. no matter how much money offered. These are about 13" long I think.. but when making them from these materials I think they're 13 ft, .. I still think the customer was probably someone that scroll saws and knows their lumber.. probably a member here playing a mean joke and they did it so they could read about it on the forums here.

I ended up cutting the board in half and made a cutting board out of the darker half.. going to make another board out of the other half too. I don't have any photos of the cutting board just yet but I do have it oiled and drying and boy does it make a nice looking board.. I used dark walnut and sandwiched this cherry in the middle. I'll take some photos and post them in a few days.. hopefully if I don't forget, LOL..

Yes very true, I pretty much do the same thing.. though I do plain it so most of the rough cut portion is smoothed out.

Keep us posted if it works and if not what you end up doing to make it work, as the info might help someone else someday.

Ohh okay, Yeah written word is many times hard to interpret what your trying to say. After looking at some web photos of the saw it looks to me like it'd be really easy to shim the table to get this corrected.. That is kinda what many folks did back in the day with the Dewalt saws that had this issue. Looks like you could just remove the bolts to the table and place some washers or shims to raise the table where needed.

I totally understand the app as I have used it in the past to find what vacuum dust collection system would work best for my needs that was affordable.. You see there comes a point and time where rather than buy the most quite can get way overpriced when comparing it to say... a set of noise canceling headphones or something along those lines. My whole point of my last reply was not to do with the app.. but more to do with the fact that everyone's saw and stand set up is going to be different and asking what the quietest one is is going to be subjective to their set up.. Like I said.. I have a Excalibur that depending on my saw set up can run very loud or very quest same saw different set-up... so my point was.. you may find many different answers on the subject from people all with the same saw... the only "real way" I can see you get this info is to buy several saws and then set them up how you like to cut and run the test.. because asking everyone here is going to net a wide variety of answers because not everyone sets up their saws the same way.. and has been mentioned.. the material you're cutting and the blade choice used is likely going to be louder than the saw itself.. at least of the 8-10 different saws I've had and used over the years this would be the case.. all the saws I've had are very quiet like a sewing machine until you start cutting. Not to mention that many saws start out new very quiet and as they get older and start to wear out they get pretty darn noisey when the grease in the bearings start to dissipate and you end up with knocking sounds and whatnot. Of all the saws I have had my 3 Hawks and Hegner are the quietest. The Hawks air puffer ( bellows ) blowing air is louder than the rest of the saw.. you can hear the air puffing out the hose more than the motor or mechanics of the saw.. so my Hegner is also that way.. The Excalibur is pretty darn quiet but not that quiet.. again.. the actual cutting is what is noisey.. and no two blades sound the same against various materials.. and even same wood materials as wood grain and moisture content also plays a role in the sound.. hard and soft spots in the wood as you cut make louder or softer sounds.. If you're worried about protecting kids ears then I suggest investing in some earplugs or something along those lines.. and worry more about that fine sawdust that the saw creates while cutting that goes airborne.

Hmm, Are you saying if you cut a straight line and want to back up slightly you can't because the blade front to back is out of alignment? This shouldn't cause you not to back up.. Now, if the blade was out of whack side to side yes.. Is the blade when clamped in in the center of each clamp? I could see that causing this especially if they are way out off center.. such as the top one all the way to one side and the bottom one all the way on the opposite side and depending on the position of the stroke could put the blade in a bind.. This is also a problem with the blade heating up and slightly expanding the metal of the blade thus pinching it in the kerf even more. Would think the blades wouldn't last as long too.

Oh Boy.. There would be way too many factors into this question I don't see it possible to get a accurate reading from a wide range of people.. First and foremost you'd have to start with the saw set-up and tuning. If I adjust my Excalibur to cut more aggressively it gets louder.. same saw different set-up.. not to mention whether or not the saws stand it planted firmly to the floor.. a slight vibration will create a louder noise from the saw.. I don't see any practical way to really measure the sound. Just my opinion.

I've not been around to see one of these in person.. but have seen photos of them, unfortunately all the photos never show a good view of the saws motor and how it is mounted. I've always wondered if they have this adjustment like most of the other short link arm saws except DeWalt and Delta. Most these saws the motor is mounted with a ring around it and the bolts go through some slots.. In order to adjust the front to back movement on most of these is to loosen those three bolts just enough to move the motor and then rotate what I do is put the saw on the lowest speed and with the square behind the blade I run the saw and rotate the motor in those slots.. until I get it with the least amount of movement. I don't know if the WEN has this style system or not.. I'm guessing it's price point and build is to compete more with the DeWalt so it probably doesn't have this option.. Some of the first type 2 Dewalts had a terrible issue with this after they moved production to another location and they got a bad name for the type 2 saws because of this. There were guys doing modifications as JT said... IF the saw is under warranty you might want to just take it back, could be a flaw in it that is making this cut more aggressively than you like. For precise cutting I would not own one of these saws that could not be adjusted for the blade aggression. I believe the two cheapest saws that can adjust the motor is going to be Excalibur or the newer Grizzly otherwise you're looking at the expensive Jet,Pegas and Seyco etc..

I was thinking they was all the same but wasn't 100% sure as I never made one.. was one of those things that was on my to do list that never happen... Yet.. Thanks for clarifying that JT

I think this is the topic from a few years ago that might have what you're looking for?

Check out this grain on this cherry board. I was needing a piece of cherry for a project and only thing I have around here for cherry is all rough cut. Hard to see what the grain actually looks like in rough cut but I’m not using this for my scroll saw project after seeing this grain. Thinking about a couple cutting boards with walnut on both sides and this cherry being the center or making it as a table. What would you do with it? It’s only about 5.5 inch wide after edging it and there is a bad spot on one edge that either would have to edge another 1/2 off or plane it down another 1/4 inch.

Yeah, mine vibrates / shakes quite a lot in that same speed range. I don't run mine full speed but somewhere between the full speed and that vibration area, LOL.. I'm guessing it to be right around the 1500spm is where I run my saws. The old 1993 saw I run full speed as that one tops out at 1500spm.. as does the Excalibur which I also run full speed. I started scrollsawing on a old single speed saw which was 1500spm so that may be why that is my speed of comfort... actually it was a two speed saw but low was way to slow and while just learning 1500 was a bit on the fast side but I dealt with it and it's where I like to be at now days.. I often wonder how the BM20 compares to the BM26.. that extra length in the arms moving I'm sure give a more pronounced vibration or maybe that harmonic balance is at a different speed range on the smaller saw.. was always kinda curious about that. In some ways I wished i'd have went with the 20" saw since I have the 226VS Ultra anyway for those larger projects.