kmmcrafts

Question 1: My vacuum hose fits perfectly so I never had this issue.. but I was thinking if you know of someone with a 3d printer that could print out a adapter for the size you need might be the only solution you have.. or if you have one somewhat close in size and can wrap some electrical tape on the fitting to make it fit tighter might be an option? There was a person here on this site that was making some sort of adapters and selling them on their Etsy site but not sure exactly what they was making or who it was.. Maybe someone here will remember and chime in. Question 2: I don't have any first hand experience with this but I have read about it with other types of saws and vacuums and one persons solution if I remember correctly was they put a 3 way plug connector and had a light or something hooked to it so it'd draw enough power to turn the vacuum on correctly..

Milwaukee is probably the top brand when it comes to cordless.. and I use their cordless impacts and ratchets.. I'll look into the deal. For some reason when i click on the link you gave it just comes back to this topic, LOL.. not sure if it's a glitch or?

Assortment of blades is a great idea.. I hadn't thought about some smaller sized for tight areas so I'll have to see what is available. Thank you for the advice given

Yes, a spray gun is way better at atomizing the fluid.. I keep thinking I need to use my spray gun and buy the quart size etc.. way better results, especially on larger surfaced projects. That being said many of my items are most times done as a one off order or very small batches that isn't really worth the time and effort to have to clean the spray equipment etc.. so that is my reasoning behind spray cans.. Cost per oz is way better if you have the ability to use spray equipment. For a small batch of small items such as ornaments.. spray can in my opinion is the way to go.. NOW if I was able to do large batches and was in my production mode to where I was able to spray a few batches per day then that might be different. With the slowed down economy I'm not really been working a lot.. most things are in inventory from years of building a lot of stock.. so the last couple years I've been only working on a few items here and there.. not really any need to do large batches.

Use to be a lot of good finishes.. but these days with the environmentalist cracking down on anything that might have a smell or anything that doesn't smell but dries they've gotta save the world.. I get it really but at the same time they're making it so we're going to have to pay a higher tax if we fart more than once in a days time, LOL I've done the water base poly in the blue / teal colored can.. used to like the stuff but the last several cans have done nothing but clog up and spit and sputter the stuff and ruin the finish.. I've now been using the Lacquer, and like you I'm finding I like the Lacquer best.. at least for now.. other than the smell.

Thank you, I have the saw kit for the rotary tool but the tool really lacks in power with these saw blades.. It's what I've been using but I feel like the multi tool would have more power and cut a larger area at a time as opposed to the small circle blade. Thank you very much for your input. I'll check out the half moon blade.. I think it's probably the one I was looking at and thinking it'd be the best one I've seen so far.. not having any experience with the tool I thought I'd ask those that have used them.

Just my opinion since I've been there done that with many different saw brands.. I suggest running the saw you have a watching Facebook marketplace or craigslist, ebay, and etc. for a good used higher end saw.. Many times a really nice older Hawk, Hegner, Pegas, or Seyco etc pop up at a better price than a new DeWalt.. A lightly used Pegas or Seyco and a moderately used Hawk or Hegner would likely outlast any of those new saws in the price range you're looking at. Many times I've seen the 18" Jet come up on sale for a inbetween price of the DeWalt and the Pegas and they ( last I knew ) are a good saw made in the same plant as the Pegas and Seyco I believe.. They have a bit different of a blade clamping system that you may love or hate.. good news is if you hate it you can buy the pegas clamp upgrade and have the same basic saw as the Pegas I think.. Nice work on the football helmets.. cool idea.. how large are they? I could see those selling good as a Christmas ornament size..

This is way off topic for scroll saw work but many folks here have expressed how much they like and use one of these multi tool things.. I'm sort of remodeling a 5th wheel travel trailer and needing to cut a line through the paneling so I don't destroy the whole inside of this since I'm hoping to just open up the wall and repair a small water damaged area and then put up a couple sheets of paneling. As some may know, or maybe not.. these things are glued and stapled together and the cupboards etc are screwed and glued from the outside of the trailer underneath the siding.. I'm hoping to be able to cut the paneling out and not have to destroy the cupboards etc. so was hoping to cut the panel up to near the edge of the cupboard.. Anyway, you guys think the multi tool would be good for cutting that paneling and if so what blade configuration would you recommend? I gotta say I bought this flex shaft tool from HF thinking it'd be a one time use tool on a project I was doing last winter in the house.. It has been used so much already in several projects including this camper rebuild job.. I only bought it as a cheapy one time use.. Being from HF I would think it should be broke by now.. Here is the flex shaft tool and I've worked the crap out of it.. should have broke by now but it keeps on going like the energizer bunny..LOL https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-cordless-variable-speed-rotary-tool-kit-with-flexible-shaft-36-piece-tool-only-58672.html Was thinking I'd get this multi tool.. anyone experience with this one? It's another one of those tools I don't have any use for it other than the job I'm currently working on.. however like the rotary tool, I'll probably use the crap out of it once i have one.. https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-brushless-cordless-variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-tool-only-58379.html

I just use the one that comes on the titebond bottle for the most part. Up until recently I never used much glue but recently been making some cutting boards and learned just how much glue one could use in this kind of woodwork. I use titebond III for those ( not pictured ). I also started making a lot of layered ornaments that require a small amount of glue and my small titebond bottle has a bit too large of a tip on it. I discovered my wife has this big glue bottle and the tip is just cut off whatever size you need with a small cap that snaps on / off. Don’t tell her but I swapped the tops so I’d have a smaller dropper type cap that works great. Like JT said, I just use what comes with the bottles and or rob them from other bottles and clean / wash them as needed. IF I was to start production on cutting boards and started using a lot of glue. My cheap thriftyness would just use the small titebond bottle and refill that instead of spending money on dispensers that will likely also need cleaning. I don’t even need any glue spreaders, God gave me 10 of those for that purpose.

I've been here for years and never knew this even existed, LOL.. Though most could probably see my "gallery" by just visiting my etsy,amazon, and website that is always linked in my signature.. Though I don't sell everything I make so maybe I should make a gallery for those types of things..

If only I had a little bit of this problem.. I tend to be the opposite of this.. so many things I want to make.. not only with the scroll saw but also the laser and cnc.. or just plain old woodworking things like cutting boards small furniture type things.. The list goes on.. and into doing other hobbies like building my car, building my jeep.. doing some upgrades to my house.. My wife currently has me remodeling / restoring our 5th wheel camper.. back in 2006 it developed a bad roof leak.. I stripped the whole roof off and rebuilt a couple of trusses and then all new decking and replaced the rubber roof.. replaced all the new roof vents etc etc. was most of a summer project and the one wall should have been done at the time but I was running out of summer weather.. now the awning is on this wall and it's always been weak in that mount area due to that roof leak back then.. so now we are working to restore the wall and remodel the inside. Too many projects and not enough time, LOL..

You are correct, this forum and many others are a learning experience for everyone... even seasoned scrollers like me that has been scrolling for many years learn new ways of doing things.. you can teach a old dog new tricks.. but it depends on how stubborn the dog is as to whether he is using the new tricks he has learned or continues in his old tried and true method..

Come across this on one of the laser forums. Not certain if it'd work with a scroll saw with cutting the slots in the back to make it bend to open it. I'm thinking about giving these a try with the laser and see first hand how it all works. I'm sure there is probably another way of making a removable backer. Anyway, I have several themed Christmas ornaments that would be good to convert to a air freshener... Not sure what they're using for the air freshener part? maybe a piece of thin foam? Thoughts? https://www.etsy.com/listing/1753085567/air-fresheners-cross-laser-file-laser?click_key=c0a1e127b3c232b934056732f75c757a8421103e%3A1753085567&click_sum=156c9f58&ref=related-2&pro=1&sts=1

I don't know for sure but I think probably the direction of each company and the target market they was trying to reach is what made this all happen. Hegner seemed to have been the higher priced saw through a lot of the years I think Hawks were quite a lot lower priced from what I read, so I sort of think Hegner marketed as a higher end saw to a richer group of people.. Maybe wrong on that but I know that Hawk made many saws for "other brands" or rebranded to other companies but they was still the same old Hawk, just different color and name. I don't think Hegner did that sort of stuff. I also think Hawk built a very good saw for the price points but still higher end prices than any of the others.. I don't know any higher end names for back then other than Delta made a decent mid range saw.. There where tons of what i would consider entree level saws back then but what did they really have for a mid to high end saw back in the 80's and 90's? I think Hawk made a lot of design changes looking to better compete for the market while still providing a quality saw.. Possibly getting different contracts for different motors etc.. They also struggled with the weight of the arms for the small motors they run so they had several different arm designs trying to cut weight out of them with slots bored through them.. etc. etc. after all the arms are solid machined aluminum.. not cheap lighter weight castings that most other saws used.. might have some to do with the weak motor issues they experience with some saws and why they ran a few different motors over the years. I believe Hawk probably sold way more saws than Hegner did due to the price points. We have a lot of different brands to choose from these days for mid - high end saws.. most are basically rebranded Excaliburs with some minor different clamp designs etc.. but back then you either took a Delta, Hawk, or Hegner.. and honestly there was really only 1 high end Delta and the rest were more of a entry level saw.. back then I feel like Hawk was the Pegas of today.. they made quite a name for themselves.. and most everyone would like to get one.. Hegner just stayed in their lane and charged a premium price through the years. I think both or all three saws are great saws.. but Hawk probably outsold the others and made a saw that last a lifetime hence there is still tons of those older 80's and 90's saws out there floating around.

Have one of those that has the arm handle things for moving your arms as you walk on it.. Make a nice coat rack or hat rack.. little on the pricey side if you get them new.. At least it's double purpose and the workout you get just cleaning it off to use is plenty for one day,

Some of the smaller saws did have longer arms and the arms hang off the back of the saw quite a ways.. I often wondered if some of the 16" saws just used the arms from a 20" saw and hang them out the back farther.. Not sure but some of them just look odd like that.. even the 12 and 14 inch saws look that way.. My brain isn't functioning well but it seems to me like they'd have to drill the arm mounting hole in the different spot then wouldn't they..

I think this is the first one I've seen that had been upgraded.. Note: the tag says 216-3 not sure what Hawk number 2 means as all saws start with the number 2 but the 16 means it's the 16 inch saw.. the -3 means it's a belt driven saw with 3 different speeds.. however the photos of the saw shows it having the updated power switch and the variable speed controller.. they used to offer upgrades but I've never seen one until this saw..

I've been busy working but not much scrolling this entire year as business was quite slow.. now it seems to be picking up and I'm not ready for it to pick up.. have way too many projects going on at the same time and got used to not being busy with the scroll work now I have CNC and laser orders coming in and car work to do and now scroll work to make.. funny how it all comes at once.. either nothing going on or everything going on.. nothing in between. Wife showed some coworkers the planter box I made and the raised bucket garden I made and now I have made like 10 planter boxes and a couple of the bucket gardens.. Not something I made and intended to sell really but here I am making those.. Just delivered two of them yesterday.

I timed myself and cut one of these in 4 minutes! Of coarse it looks nothing like a Dachshund but that just makes the puzzle way more challenging.

Not sure what your area is like but around my area people for some reason don’t remove their listing when sold and complain because people keep inquiring. Like duh remove the ads then. Then another group get mad because nobody ask about items they’re trying to sell. FB should have a time limit on the ads and then remove after 30 days or something. There are things popping up on my feed that are 2-3 years old. Maybe we need to share those ads and get 100’s of people inquiring so they’ll at least look into how to take the ad down.

Well, I was more curious about the process etc.. tear out isn't usually an issue for me because I always make my boards first and cut to size lastly.. I never really knew why it wasn't recommended to plane end grain.. I believe I heard someone mention it could be dangerous so I never attempted to do it.. Then wondered when i seen that video and she said she rounds over the edges and has done it for years just had me curious. IF I were to make one these days I'd just use my CNC with the surfacing bit. Have used that bit many times on projects I needed to smooth out that wouldn't fit through my 13" planer. Most the signs I make that are 15+ inch wide just get surfaced on the CNC.

Just a small progress update. Got it carved and sealed the carve area so the wife could paint it and she decided she wanted to leave it as is. Wish I had known that ahead of time because I would have used the nice epoxy finish I’ve had for a while now. Bought pin legs but didn’t like them so ordered some different style legs on Amazon that just came in. Now to decide how / where to mount the table to the legs as one end is a bit narrow and the leg sticks out from the edge about 1/4 inch or so. Wife says she has a unique idea for this so I’m turning the project over to her.

I've always heard you can't or shouldn't plane end grain.. I'm not no woodworker by any means but have always heard you can't or shouldn't plane end grain. Always wanted to make a end grain cutting board but never wanted to have to sand everything by hand.. I just watched a video on Youtube where the lady said if you roundover the edges of the board with a router you can then run the end grain through the planer.. she claims she's done it for years that way. Kind of wanted to see what some of you more experienced woodworkers think of that?

Hey Bill Thanks for that info.. I'm not liking the way it feels and I did get some dust / grit of somesort in it and it needs a light sanding and another light coat.. That being said, because of the slow drying and it needs a sanding and light coat.. I've been tempted to run it through the planer and starting over using Lacquer I use a lot of lacquer and I didn't remember this stuff drying slow.. I'm not sure how the edges would do with some Lacquer getting on them though.. I doubt I'd be able to sand "all" the lacquer off out of all the nooks and crannies of the edges and ends.. so maybe best to continue on.. either case I'm going to end up having to buy more as I haven't sealed up the bottom side at all yet so thinking starting over with lacquer has been in my thoughts ever since I sprayed the spar on it. I'm just not sure how to handle the edges since I'm pushing the deadline..

Well, since I really don't a bunch of time to get this right.. even though I started this idea / project over a month ago.. custom orders and life have taken a lot of time up that I normally would have been done with this by now.. Anyway, today I just did the pattern design in my CNC software and since we want to "paint" the carved areas and then topcoat it, it works best to "seal" the wood before carving with whatever finish I'm going to use and then seal the carved area with another couple coats, then use the acrylic craft paints on the carved area then I seal it all up again. Not knowing how these other finishes will work with the craft paints etc. in this process and being somewhat limited in time I went ahead and sprayed the gloss spar varnish stuff I've used in the past on it for the first couple coats to seal it up.. SO, I guess I've made my decision up.. Still very interested in options / opinions for future projects I will be doing some more of these natural edged slabs since i have quite a large pile of them.. Most are Walnut but have many other varieties too. This is somewhat how the design will look carved out of the one upper corner of the slab. It'll be the upper left with the white edge below it.. trying to put the carve in the less grain area if that makes any sense, LOL In the first photo it'll be in the farther corner closer to the bike tire.