hotshot
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Everything posted by hotshot
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It's hard to explain overcutting (or floating), but I think it might also be a useful technique in small wood pieces to hide supports. I actually tilt the coin at a steep angle and holding this angle, I push the part I want to cut into the blade to grind off the top part of the support. I took a really really magnified picture at an angle so you can see the truth behind the magic. You can see how the metal toward the surface of the coin has been ground down below the surface where the support is. The support should have been a little wider so that it would be a little less fragile. It is however, wider than it looks here, because the top comes to a point
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I don't notice it being a lot louder than wood. My "indoor" scrollsaw is the living room and my family can still watch TV when I saw. (Good thing about metal, there isn't any flying dust, so you can saw inside without making a mess.)
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I don't typically need a file on metal. If there is touchup needed, the side of the blade can act as a grinder. When I polish a coin, it softens all the edges.
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Though most coin cutters out there like to cut out designs that are already a part of the coin, that isn't really my thing. When the coin is all silver, the contours make up the design, it is a real challenge to see where to cut. I thought I would try this again, and again, I struggled all the way through the coin, straining my eyes to make out the lines between the shadows and shades of silver. I must have my light wrong. If you don't see the bit of metal holding the "earth", it's because I overcut it, then used a black marker to further hide it. Anyway, hope you like the attempt.
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If your looking for solid and American, try the Hawk which is a modern (can top feed), well built, and well regarded. They still support their older saws, so there is a good chance anything you buy now will be supported going forward, if they stay in business. If you want something that has maintained the basic design for 30+ years, and you will probably be able to get parts of the rest your life, Hegner is your ticket, though they are cost prohibitive if you buy new. Craigslist has them pretty regularly for about 1/4 the price of new. For me, I have two Hegners, an Excalibur, and a Dewalt Type 1, and prefer the Ex/Dewalt style because of their top feeding and easy blade changes, though they are now made in Tawain. There are so many 788s out there, it is unlikely that parts would become unavailable for a very very long time. I could have very easily gone with Hawk, (the new models also top feed), and may buy one of those one day to complete my collection. ------Randy
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Wow, that turned out really good!
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This fretwork was found in First United Methodist Church in Murfreesboro, TN. From a distance, it looks like one piece, close up you can see how he put it together. I would love to see the saw he did this on. It could have been with a hand fretsaw, but I doubt it. I'm thinking early pedal powered model.
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For those of you that would like to do stuff like this, perhaps in wood instead of metal :-) Back in 2011, a couple of guys that hung out in the SSWC forum created an incredible tutorial. They presented a simple project (with sample patterns) and showed how to do these, and hide the entry hole. The tutorial is posted on one of their personal sites. If you want a simple fun project to try this on, give it a try. Link Below. http://scrollingalong.com/jc_inlay/inlay_primer.pdf
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Still experimenting. Wanted to try to create some contrast for the gold (brass), and didn't have any "liver of sulphur" to create the patina, so I torched the Kennedy to oxidize it and turn it dark. When I put the seal on it, I think it may turn to a shiny black. Anyway, not sure if I like it yet, but it is always fun to experiment.
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You are definitely logged in because you can post, and we can see your picture. If you scroll to the very very top, you should see you pic and the other things being described. If you hoover over the icons at the top, you will see the text descriptions. I wonder if you resolution is set low and this stuff is showing off screen.
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I didn't have much scrap in that thickness to test on, but I found a big enough piece to cut a few really small test circles, and when I thought I was close, I tweaked the angle up just a little to be tight. I was relieved it worked.
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Used CA glue to make sure it doesn't come out. Over time, I'm not sure if it will hold, I'll have to see. A real Jeweler probably would have silver soldered it.
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Ok, I'm sure some of you were hoping this was in wood . . . in time, I'll get back to wood, but I just need to get metal out of my system first. In any case, you have to admit, you have probably never seen this done with coins before :-)The gold/bronze inlayed coin is a Greek 100 Drachma, the copper is a Provident Mint coin. Blade was 2/0, angle for inlay was just under 8 degrees. You can't really tell it in the picture, but I lucked out and the inlay is perfectly flush and tight. I'll probably drill a hole in the top for a chain or something.-----Randy
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I have and article in the queue. Not sure which issue it will be in. Since I've been scrolling, getting that magazine when it comes out is one of my favorite things, so I'm honored to have that opportunity. Thus, I'm an evangelist for coin cutting, and hopefully that will give this area of scrolling some visibility.
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Every pattern I see, I alway quickly evaluate if it could be scaled down to coin size, or if so, which coin size. Most patterns are impossible to cut at a reduced scale. Beyond that, anything that I can cut at Kennedy size, that has high detail, I would not be able to be cut at this scale. The one thing that is really really hard to do at scale is portraits, I've made multiple attempts, but have never really been satisfied. I think to do those, I would need the help of a very good artist that understood the limitation of the medium, and could optimize the pattern for this scale.
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Hey Joe, I just used the FDUR #5 as reference since most of the folks here are familiar with that blade. On the Nickel, I used Pike #6/0 because of the long sharp ends. On the dime, I used Pike #2/0. Pike blades are awesome, and made by the same folks that make Pegas blades. The holes in the coin were drilled with a #72, which is .6 mm.
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Forgot to give the creator of love heart credit. That pattern was by OTB and you can find under the free section at www.otbpatterns.com The Celtic Heart Knot pattern is a common design and converted to this format by me. It is Kennedy size by default, and is cuttable in wood at that size, or you can easily scale up if you like. I'm going to try to attach that file to this post. celtic_heart.pdf (Hey Kudos to the new SSV, I don't think posting PDFs was possible before)
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So, I've never cut a nickel nor dime before. The dime is the smallest and most intricate cutting so far. I thought some of you might find the picture with the entry holes (#72 bit) interesting. Not much room for error there. I also put a FDUR #5 on top the dime cutting to show perspective. Hope you got a kick out of this:
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Hey, if anyone watches the video, please like it on YouTube. Not a lot of people do this type of cutting on the scroll saw and I'm trying to evangelize the heck out of coin cutting with the scroll saw, so hopefully a few likes will give these kinds of projects more visibility. Plus, hopefully I'll direct a few viewers back to this community.
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Sorry for the video issues, please try now
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. Probably about 8 or so
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I saw where someone cut this traditionally, and thought I would try it on a coin. I've had several requests to put up a video of some cutting, so here is a link to some pretty raw footage. https://youtu.be/A1jp7eau9Ww I'll do a more instructional video at some point and polish it up a bit, but this should give you a feel for how this goes. I had a drill bit break off in the coin, in a tight place where there wasn't enough room for another entry hole, so there is a portion in the middle of the video where I'm working through that issue.
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I would highly advise you make sure your last backup is recent and complete. I've been in I.T. a while, and crap happens.
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Looks like it might have a problem with the blower. If it runs smooth, I would go with it, even if it is a type two.
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I tried the wax Stick sold by Sloans, and it was pretty worthless. This might be better, and it is cheap and on Amazon Prime, so I clicked "Buy". I'll let you know how it does. I've been using 3 and 1 oil for drilling, this might be a decent alternative to that also. We shall see.
