jscottj

I made a pull out drawer that is under the workbench top. The drawer has some hardware cloth with 1/2 x 1/2 inch mesh stapled on the open top of the drawer. All overspray goes into the bottom of the drawer. just pull out to spray and close it when done. It was made from scrap wood. No slides just a couple of boards shaped like an "L" the the drawer rests and slides on. Not good looking but it has been there for years

My go to for Dremel supplies is widgetsupply.com.

Great looking work by everyone. Here is what I have been working on. The last one is in process, but should be finished in the next few days. Bruce Worthington and Homer Bishop patterns.

All of the ways described work well. I have used all of them over the years. I tried the contact shelf paper with the pattern attached with spray glue on top of that and found it to be by far the easiest to remove. I can remove it all in one piece even on detailed portraits. I have used all the methods described, but now do the shelf paper almost exclusively unless I am stack cutting some project where a wrap of tape holds it together in the stack also. I am using shelf paper from the dollar store at this time, but not sure it holds quite as well as name brand, but it has not failed yet. I can just tell it doesn't have the same adhesion. Been doing intarsia and smaller scrolling with it. I don't think I would trust it on a detailed portrait like I have done with name brand.

Here's a couple of Halloween projects I've done.

I have a couple small magnets on my flexible light by my saw and place my used blades there for future use. Close and handy

I have made 2 large mops from Klingspor Gold paper using a homemade jig to hold a stack of sheets while cutting the "fingers" using my bandsaw. Steve Good's post from a few years ago was pretty much what I did. With the cost of the paper and the fact that it ruined the bandsaw blade, and the time it took, the savings were fairly minimal in my mind. I might do it again when I have a used blade that would need replaced afterward. Or use a cheap Bosch blade from Lowes ($10 for a 96 inch) that fits my saw. I have a 180 and 220 grit mops

Sheila Landry has some youtube videos where she uses antiquing and staining medium you can buy with the craft paints. It works wonders with the paint also as compared to thinning with water.

I like the light to shadow ratio as it is. I wouldn't change a thing. Looks awesome.

You might check Meisel Hardware as they have a couple of horse drawn wagon patterns that are 3D . Don't know if they will fit your needs or not, but they may help you come up with a solution. http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/Products/ViewProduct.aspx?id=11793 http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/Products/ViewCategory.aspx?id=2872 http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/Products/ViewProduct.aspx?id=44565

I only have experience with the flex drum sanders. I have it mounted on a variable speed grinder as compared to the motors you are looking at. Use them primarily. I also use the small flex sanders from Seyco on a flex shaft run from an old drill in a homemade drill stand. The small flex drums work great on small parts along with a dremel with a flex shaft too. I use all 3 types of sanders on every project. If you pick the Seyco unit, all I can say is I have never regretted choosing that type of sander

I use anything from a craft stick, popsicle stick, paint stir stick, or even scraps of plywood with some double sided tape to hold the piece (or multiple pieces) and the length keeps my fingers clear. Holds well and doesn't affect movement around my flex drum. Works great with a dremel too. I have a jig made of scrap plywood shaped like a capital I that I can clamp onto my work surface that raises a workpiece on a sanding shim/stick (also clamped in place) that is helpful when using a dremel or flex shaft attachment for shaping or flap sanding. Scott

Check out the Eclipse P100 mask that Sheila Landry has posted about. I think I am going to order 1 for myself. Peachtree and Woodcraft both have them. I watched a YouTube video on them also. They are supposed to work well with glasses.

I quickly checked Meisel Hardware, but did not see it there. They have several wine holder plans there also. Possibly Winfield Collections

I get my paper in a roll and the arbors also for the motor from Klingspor. I use rolls that are 2 inches wide and cut the strips into 6 inches long strips. Check out the link below from Steve Good as he explains it excellently. I am working on some smaller ones(similar to the mini flutter wheels Seyco sells) that use a nut and bolt as the arbor to chuck on a drill to power it. I am ordering a flex shaft for the drill to be able to use it like the flex shaft on my dremel. I have used the big mops on scrolled items with great results, but not on the delicate portrait type projects. Using spacers between some of the layers in the mops softens the aggressiveness some too. http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2008/12/make-your-own-sanding-mop-on-cheap.html http://www.woodworkingshop.com/category.aspx?id=22&f5=CLOTH&f1=2%22+X+10