Bill WIlson

They are capable of cutting straight and relatively smooth, but so is a table saw. Both require good alignment. Frankly, I would be inclined to see if the TS issues could be corrected first. With the right blade, proper alignment of blade & fence, the TS can produce cuts that won't even require sanding. The upside is that you reap the same benefits on every other project you use the TS for. A bandsaw is also very capable. I have both in my shop. I can go to my TS and make a good, clean cut with minimal prep. With the bandsaw, I would probably need to change the blade (currently has a resaw blade installed = rough cut), adjust the tracking, reset the guides, set the tension, etc. This is far more fiddling than I need to do with my TS. OTOH, if you are looking for an excuse to buy a bandsaw, it would be a violation of forum protocol for me to discourage you.

That's what I'm thinking as well. If the blade has some run out or the fence is off slightly, the cut can be uneven. Solving the root problem is the goal, but a few passes with a well tuned and sharp block plane will likely work wonders as well.

"The problem I have is at times my saw cut is not perfect all the way around." I'm going to presume you are referring to the table saw cut, that separates the lid from the box. If that's not the case, then please ignore the questions posed below. Do you have similar problems with other cuts on the table saw? How are you guiding the cut? Wth the rip fence or a jig? What kind of blade are you using? What is the specific imperfection you are experiencing?

Whether or not the sun caused the failure, it's good that they are being moved. UV rays are rough on wood. Oh and kudos to you for bringing a little joy to the lives of these struggling vets.

Mine are all gifts. It's a tradition that started about 25 years ago and has grown to the aforementioned 100+ annual qty. Some of them are given to family members for them to give as gifts, so there are many people who have gotten them for years that I've never even met. If I were selling them, I would do something like Rolf does and put them in a jewel case.

I've taken to using a lot more BB plywood for Christmas ornaments the past several years. I prefer natural wood, but durability is a concern. I also like them to be thin. I think they look less clunky, plus I can stack cut more at a time. Sure, I can carefully and successfully cut and give out 100+ ornaments without any casualties, but these ornaments become keepsakes and are intended to be around for many years. I'm always sad to see one of my ornaments has gotten chipped. I've offered to re-make a few, but the problem is I can't control how the recipients handle and store these ornaments. I usually try to give special warning of their fragility, when possible, but the BB ply seems to offer the best compromise. If I think they need jazzing up a bit, I will use dyes, paints and even spray glitter to lend some color to the otherwise bland look of the BB ply.

For those wanting a better understanding of wood finishes, I highly recommend both of these books; https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1532301945&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=understanding+wood+finishing+bob+flexner&psc=1 https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/tauntons-complete-illustrated-guide-to-finishing-jeff-jewitt/1103130674?ean=9781627107679&st=PLA&sid=BNB_DRS_New+Core+Shopping+Top+Margin+EANs_00000000&2sid=Google_&sourceId=PLGoP211668&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4rqtpe2z3AIVBEwNCh38iA_LEAQYASABEgJYrPD_BwE Both books go pretty deep into aspects of finishing and finishes that are probably more than most hobbiest woodworkers want to know, but they are excellent resources for any woodworker who wants to know more about choosing and applying different finishes. Check them out at the local library if you want to see what they are about, but I think every woodworker should have at least one of these books in their own personal collection.

Couple things to keep in mind with these types of products. Just because the label says "Tung oil" doesn't mean there is any actual tung oil in the product at all. Often they are simply a thinned varnish (wiping varnish) or an oil/varnish blend (Danish oil). Finish manufacturers like to play word games and their labeling and advertising can be misleading. As for mixing poly, BLO and mineral spirits? It's done all the time and yes, you can vary the ratio to emphasize the characteristics you want. Most guys start out by mixing equal portions of the three ingredients, but if you want more protection and sheen, you can go heavier with the poly or oil varnish.

I install blades in a 3 step process. First I put the blade in the top holder and lightly tighten the clamp. I do this mainly because it's easier to see and I can make sure I have the blade at the proper position. Too high and it will bend with you flip the tension lever. Too low and it may slip out when tension is applied. Then I lower the top arm and install the blade in the bottom clamp. I do this entirely by feel and don't have to stand on my head to see that it's in correctly. By first confirming the top of the blade is correct, the bottom is correct by default. Then I loosen the top clamp and push down on the upper arm slightly, as Hotshot suggested, while tightening the thumbscrew. This is that added little bit that gets the blade nice & tight. I got in the habit of doing this with my Dewalt. It was almost essential with that saw. I don't think it's quite as necessary on the EX, but I still do it out of habit. Now, if after all that, you are still having trouble getting adequate tension, perhaps the nylon tension lever is worn. They sent me an extra one when I bought my EX a couple years ago, so it's a known wear item. Also, there is a nylon setscrew in the clamp bracket, directly underneath the front of the clamping lever. I'd have to check my manual to be sure, but you may affect the travel of the sliding bracket, by how far that set screw protrudes out of the bottom of the clamp bracket. I've never messed with mine, but it looks like it may play a part in how far the block moves and thus, perhaps that last little bit of tension you are seeking.

I always found this to be curious. PS Wood is in my neck of the woods. I've been scrolling for a number of years, yet I've never been there. The only thing I've ever bought from them is a few dozen of their Super Sharp blades, which are good blades, just too expensive. None of our members have a PS Wood saw and I don't recall too many on the forums who own one either. We had the owner speak to our scroll saw club a few years ago. They used to travel extensively to and participate heavily in the woodworking and scroll saw show circuit, but have scaled back that participation in recent years. Also, I think they sell exclusively through their own site. They don't have a distribution network. Their sales are all via internet, catalog and/or shows. That isn't necessarily unique, but they seem to do a decent business, so I'm at a loss to understand how it is that scrolling communities like this, Steve Good's site and SSWW&C aren't more familiar with them.

I like the Flying Dutchman New Spiral blades, mostly because I can get them in 2/0 & 3/0 sizes for really fine detail work. You may have to untwist/flatten the ends to get them to seat properly in your blade clamps, but it isn't hard to do. The Flying Dutchman brand flat end spirals are also good, if you don't need the very smallest sizes. I buy mine from Wooden Teddy Bear. https://www.woodenteddybearonline.com/x/home.php?cat=550&sort=orderby&sort_direction=0&page=1

Agree with the comments already given. Use a smaller spiral blade and better grade plywood and you will get better results. However, it is true that spirals will not cut as cleanly and smoothly as straight blades. They work well on thinner plywood, because the roughness of the cut edges isn't as noticeable as it would be on thicker wood. I prefer spirals for portrait style cutting, but that's about it. Portrait patterns lend themselves well to using spirals, but straight blades work better for traditional fretwork type projects, IMHO. Cutting straight lines and precise, sharp inside corners is much more difficult with spirals.

I haven't bought any flakes for a while. Last I bought was from Rockler. However, I do recall reading about periodic swings in pricing, due to availability of the product. The supply is somewhat subject to weather conditions in the region where the raw shellac is harvested (Thailand & India), so prices can vary widely. Perhaps the vendors are selling at different prices, reflecting the prices they paid at the time.

I often use the Zinnser pre-mixed stuff, but I've used flakes several times as well. It does take some advance planning, because it takes some time for the flakes to dissolve. I use a little electric coffee grinder and grind the flakes into a finer powder. It seems to make them dissolve faster, but it still takes time. I usually allow them to dissolve at least 24 hours. They need shaken up several times along the process as well. Like I said, you have to plan ahead. I like using the flakes, because you can get a variety of shades. I only have used a couple different shades and sometimes I even mix them. I've even mixed Zinnser clear, pre-mixed shellac with some dark amber flake mix to add just a tinge of darker color, rather than get the full impact of the dark amber. Your options for getting the color you want are pretty extensive, but you have to experiment with the wood you are using. Probably why a lot of hobbiests don't use flakes.

I prefer hardwoods, mostly domestic versions. Cherry, walnut & sassafras are probably my favorites, but the project often dictates the wood. Fortunately, many domestic hardwoods are readily available in Western PA. I've got a barn full of rough cut lumber, that came from trees on the farm here and we had sawn into boards several years ago. I still buy lumber, from time to time, when I want something I don't have available, such as African Mahogany. It cuts and finishes well and its medium brown color provides a nice contrast when used with lighter woods like maple & sassafras and even a really dark wood like walnut.

The good news is that the skills will all come back to you much faster than it took to gain them in the first place. Keep plugging away.

The 32FordCoupe, from that website, looks like the one.

Finishing really can be an art, unto itself. It sounds intimidating and complicated, which is why many woodworkers dread it and usually pick the simplest type of finish and use it for everything. Personally, I think that philosophy leads us to miss out on a lot of benefits of using different products and application methods that may be better suited to specific applications. I recommend either or both of these books for anyone who wants to learn more about finishing. https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665 https://www.amazon.com/Tauntons-Complete-Illustrated-Finishing-Taunton/dp/1627107673 Every woodworker who struggles with choosing and applying finishes would benefit from either of these books. They really contain a wealth of knowledge, borne out of the authors' own experiences.

You can safely mix mineral spirits, BLO and oil based polyurethane (or regular oil based varnish) together without concern that you are creating a WMD. In fact, you can adjust the proportions to accentuate certain characteristics. Example, you want more sheen - add higher percentage of varnish/poly. Want it thinner - add more mineral spirits. Want more of a hand rubbed look & feel, add more BLO. This became all the rage on woodworking forums several years ago because many woodworkers already had all of these ingredients in their shop, but would go out and buy Danish oil @ $15 a qt. Someone figured out you could get essentially the same thing by mixing your own "home brew". It really is that simple. For those that like to use wiping varnish - just take regular oil based varnish/poly and thin with equal part mineral spirits, that you already probably have and you end up with essentially the same thing. It may be chemistry, but it ain't rocket science.

That is correct Rolf. I believe John Polhemus created the support site. Here's a link if anyone needs it. http://www.eclipsescrollsaw.tk/

Congrats on the EX. I think you got a very good saw for a very fair price. As to which one to sell? Keep the ones that you enjoy using the most. Afterall, that's why we have this hobby, right?

I would agree with this. I replaced my Dewalt with an EX-21 a few years ago. I chose the EX, mostly because it was so similar and I would have far fewer things to get used to in the operation of the new saw. I had my Dewalt for many years and was happy with it and very comfortable with its operation. The EX was pretty much a seamless transition from the Dewalt. As Keven mentioned, the tension lever is a wear item, so check to see if it generates and maintains adequate tension. Seyco sent an extra one with mine, when it was new. Now real worries though as replacements are readily available and not all that expensive. $300 sounds like a reasonable price, provided the saw is in pretty good condition. Does the table or the saw tilt on this generation EX? I really like the way the newer ones tilt. Leaving the table flat and tilting the saw body takes a little getting used to, if you are accustomed to tilting the table, but it is an easy transition. I did find that the lower clamp thumbscrew hits the table at around 38 degrees, when tilted to the left. No big deal. It works fine tilted to the right.

Not sure I follow. If the blade was square before the cut, why wouldn't it still be square for the next one?

Yea, I don't want to hijack this thread and turn it into a treatise on table saw safety, but to be frank, learning how to avoid kickbacks isn't rocket science. There are a few basic techniques and rules of thumb that need to be understood and followed and kickbacks can be readily prevented. The table saw is the centerpiece of many woodworking shops for good reason. They can be incredibly versatile. With all due respect, it seems more practical to put ones energy and resources into learning proper TS safety and technique rather than trying to fix and/or use tools with limited capabilities. I'm climbing down off of my soapbox now.

I've been woodworking for 40 years, don't own a jointer and likely never will. I do have a bench top planer, a decent table saw and an assortment of hand planes, so I've never really missed having a jointer. I flatten warped and bowed, rough sawn stock all the time, with the tools I have. I know you mentioned that you don't care for the table saw. I probably know about as many guys who have lost fingers from jointer accidents, as table saw accidents. It's all a matter of perspective. Good luck, I hope you find a suitable solution.