OCtoolguy

Les, one board foot is 144 square inches. 12 x 12 x 1" or any multiple? of that. Say 6" wide by 24" long by 1" thick is one board foot.

That's it but there is also one identical but aluminum. I had to go page after page to find it the last time. Here is the link to the ones I bought. They are currently not available though. I should have bought more of them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5L8YPZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ike, do you ever proofread your posts? I follow everything you write but at times it's very difficult. Please don't take offense. Just a suggestion.

In your post you said Delta. If you have the Delta that is a clone of the Dewalt, you have that part. It's inside the upper arm where the tension lever is. When you rotate the tension lever it pulls a rod that goes to the rear of the saw and pulls a wedge to raise the arm and apply tension to the blade. That aluminum cover is there.

I'll bet it has something to do with the tension rod. They are notorious for that rod hitting the aluminum cover. If it starts doing it again, try readjusting that rod. Shortening it will keep it from hitting. And also, there is an article at scrollsaws.com on how to file down that cover to give it some relief. Here are some pics of what you have to do.

When/if you build this stand, before you start, determing whether you want to have two legs where you sit or just one. I reversed the plan so that I could straddle the single leg. I found that more comfortable. For me at least.

I've built 3 stands for my different saws. The first one was for my Dewalt and I posted the plans above. The second and third were built using 4 legs and a hinged top so that I could adjust the angle of the table. I incorporated 7 inch wheels from Harbor Freight so that I could roll them out the shop door to my driveway. That is a 6 inch drop and I also made a ramp. Here are pics of both styles. They are all very solid and when they are in my shop, this sit on the rubber foam flooring from Harbor Freight. No vibration at all. When I sold the Dewalt, the stand went with it and I stay in touch with the buyer. She says it's holding up well. On the two with wheels, I added a piece of 1 1/2" pvc pipe along both sides of the cart. Then I put a piece of 1" pvc pipe the same length inside of the 1 1/2" that would slide in and out. I added a cap to the inner pipe. With the inner one slid all the way in, I drilled a 1/4" hole through both pieces for a pin bolt to hold them in place. Then I pulled the inner one out about 18" and drilled through the existing hole to put a second hole in the inner piece. Now I can slide the inner piece out, slip the pin through both and I have "wheelbarrow" handles to move it around. Works great. What I'm doing now is building in a dust collection system for each saw that is totally self-contained using a MetroVac 500 and the little cyclone that is available from Amazon. I installed the cyclone in a stainless steel coffed canister with a flip top lid. I'm almost done with the first one. Yesterday, I built the piping for the saw using LocLine fittings over and under the table. I think it's going to work great. I'll be able to move either saw outdoors and have a dust control system right onboard. More pics to follow.

Those things fascinate me but I know in my mind that I would never complete one. I just know ME!

Excellent setup. I like everything about it.

Sounds like a good deal. Thanks.

@OzarkSawdustcan you give us any idea of what that saw set you back? I'm wondering how many cans & bottles I'll need to save.

@MrsNwhere do you teach? Which state? I want to commend them for still offering woodshop.

A much kinder, gentler saw.

What the book said. You were too quick for me.

I 'm short of space so I'm going with a flip top and put my planer on one side and my Ridgid spindle sander on the other. It's gonna work out great.

I probably didn 't make myself clear on the running of the vac. There are good vacuums that have a system incorporated into them that causes them to come on on demand. I have Fein vac and I know that Festool also has that feature. I had at one time a very good Porter Cable shop vac that had it also. I'm sure there are others and you can even build your own switch/outlet box that will do it for you. At this point, I have my on EX hooked up to my Fein vac but the other one is the saw that I'm trying to build a self-contained dust system for. When finished I will be able to take the saw anywhere I want and it will have it's own dust control. I am going to try to use it off the foot switch and see how it works out. If it goes bad, I'll know that it was n't a good idea and just have to get another Metrovac. They aren't all that expensive. In your case, you might go on eBay and look at the Oreck carry around vacs. They are on there always and I just bought one for $10 plus shipping. I will outperform the MetroVac a bunch. I will try that one on my EX that is hooked up the the Fein now. It's more of a game at this point to see just what I can come up with. The heart of the system though is the tiny cyclones that some of us bought on Amazon. I got both of mine, made of aluminum, for under $20 each. The price has since gone up and they are also making them out of plastic. Whatever, they work great. They have 1 inch ports and work great with the MetroVacs and the Orecks. Something to think about. In your case, if you can isolate your shop vac in another room or outside and use a remote switch on it, that will make life a lot better for you. Hang in there, you are well on your way.

I'll be following too.

I don't see that it's a big deal. If there is a leak, it's inbound, not outbound. It's a vacuum. I'd worry more about the shop vac and how long it will live if you have it wired to your foot switch. On/off will kill it in short order. And having it run constantly will become an irritant to your ears. Start shopping for a vac that is designed for how you want to use it. Also, after reading and watching videos, if you do too much downsizing from the vac to the nozzles, you will lose suction volume. I'm fighting that right now in the system that I'm building. I'm using a MetroVac with a 1 1/8" snout and if I downsize to 1/2" I can tell the difference. I'm try to keep everything to between 3/4" & 1". So far it's working. I'm also building a muffler for the vac that muffles without slowing the air flow. Pics coming soon.

Well, you are now thinking in the right direction. No cheap saws if you can help it. I realize that not everybody can jump right in to a high end saw but there are so many mid-range saws to choose from and also the 'used" route is a good idea. The EX style saws are all great. If you can find a used Hegner, that's probably the top of the heap but only because they don't wear out and parts are easy to get. Not cheap but easy. The service there through Wolfgang at Advanced Machinery is top notch. If money is an object, think Delta, Dewalt. Then move on up to the EX, Pegas, Seyco. Then Hawk, Hegner.

It's not in the manual but if you just look under the upper arm you'll see a couple of screws that when removed allows you to rotate the aluminum cover and aim the outlet port a different direction. Easy-peasy!

I hope it works out.

He mentioned something in one of his postes regarding Florida heat/humidity.

@byron999, @byron wells, I hope you see this. It might be your solution. Buying a new Delta is not a good thing as their service sucks. Warranty or not they will have your saw for a good while.

Kevin, chat this guy up and see if you're close to each other. Might be a win-win.

I don't recall what saw you have but I do know that on the Dewalts, Deltas and EX type saws, the blower tube can be removed and turned 180 degrees so that it blows the other direction. You might want to take a look at your saw and see if that's an option.