OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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Delta 40 496 scrollsaw will not start
OCtoolguy replied to Kevin vicknair's topic in General Scroll Sawing
As the old saying goes "Buy the best and cry only once!". -
Definitely doesn't sound right. I think it might be time to go back through it and recheck everything. Something is out of whack for sure.
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Another thing comes to mind here. Do you have your saw firmly mounted to a base? I MUST be held down tight so that vibration does not enter into the equation. I have experienced this first hand when I brought home my used EX16. I had it sitting on top of my workbench and I started checking everything out. It worked great but if I ran it up on the speed dial it would start to vibrate and made a bit of noise. When I pushed down hard on the table with both of my hands it smoothed out and the vibration and sound went away. Just thought I'd add that.
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That's a nice looking saw. Should serve you for a long time. If you have it tuned and the motor has no run out or endplay, you're in business.
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I'm not sure that would work Kevin. Without it, the only tension adjustment you'd have would be the flip lever. At least with the rod in place you have some adjustment as to how tight or loose you want it prior to flipping the lever. On the EX/Pegas that knob at the back gives you a way of tightening up the tension over what the lever gives you.
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You want to take as much slack out of the tension mechanism as possible. It sounds like you might have gone the wrong direction.
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Don't hold your breath.
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Here's a link to the manual download. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/556654/Dewalt-Dw788.html#product-DW788
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You can download a manual online. I do it for all of my used tools. I still think your knocking has something to do with the tension rod banging on something. You mentioned 3 1/2 and 4 1/2. Are you referring to the speed dial or the tension dial? Really it shouldn't matter about speed. Vibration will factor in with saw speed but the knocking shouldn't. Did you have this knock prior to your rebuild? When I did mine, I found a very loose bolt that held the arm mechanism to the motor drive link. Once I tightened that up, my noise went away. You may not have relieved that cover enough. It's easy to remove it and see if you find any marks on the under side of it. You only have to relived one end of it. Your tension rod may still be too loose too. It takes some fiddling with but I really think that is your sound. There nothing else to really knock unless you left something loose. I wish we were closer so I could visit and see for myself.
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Les, did the Oreck hose connect directly to the mini cyclone or did you have to "adapt" it down? If so, what did you use?
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Did you see the mention on scroll saws.com of relieving the area of the aluminum cover over the tension rod? I had to do that to get mine quieted down. I had turned the rod 4 to 6 turns but to no avail. So I put it back to where I started and moved ahead with filing down that area of the cover that was in line with the rod. I had to take quite a bit off off it but that solved it. If I recall I did still turn the rod 2 turns to shorten it. I also gave the sliding wedge a heavy layer of grease. You are very close to having a sweet saw.
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I just bought an Oreck carry-around vac w/attachments on eBay for $35. They are small and have very good suction. I'm going to try to muffle it in some way. @Rockytime is doing the same thing. Lots of experimenting going on. I think between us we'll come up with an acceptable system.
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GreatStar bought up the Shop-Vac business.
OCtoolguy replied to tgiro's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Lets hope they do stay in this country and try to improve whatever was wrong with ShopVac. -
As suggested, the Facebook group has at least one member who seemed to have a lot of parts when I was following it. Good luck.
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You won't go wrong with either one. If after purchase service is really important to you, go with the Seyco. Ray is the best.
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You can buy/use any saw but there is only one Scroll Saw Village!!! Thanks Travis!
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Basically yes because that amount of play is as close as you'll ever get to being right on. If you have a dial indicator, that's the best way to check but you can use a piece of wood and a pencil too. First thing is take the throat plate out and with the saw unplugged, mount a blade and grab it by the outer edges and do a push/pull in it. If it moves in and out very much, I mean less than .010 I would say that's ok. But anything more than that is not acceptable. Then roll the blade toward you and mark a tooth with a sharpee and place a straight edge along side of the blade and rotate the blade to that same marked tooth at the back. There should not be much deviation between the too. It can mean either an out of center shaft or the whole motor is out of alignment. That can be adjusted but the bent shaft can't. I can't remember what saw you have. Is it a motorized contractor saw or a job site saw. My saw is a jobsite saw and I have tuned it to be the best it an ever be. It will only go downhill from here.
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Not really. It all depends on the quality of the motor and they are mass produced. They have cheap bearings and the end play is usually a lot. When I bought my job site saw, I checked it and it seemed to be pretty tight so I took it knowing in my mind it was not my forever saw. But at my age, I guess it is. Keep your eyes open for a used Unisaw. The mechanism is bulletproof and the motor is replaceable when needed. I just saw one near me for $600 but I don't have 220 and that's what they really need.
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Very nice. And I love the pics. Putting faces with names is fun.
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Excellent!
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Beautiful work Mate!
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Very nice Les.. Excellent!
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Correct Dan. I had mine for more than 10 years and never even had to adjust the belts. That saw was my pride and joy.
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Unisaws have the motor inside also. The difference is where the blade attaches. If it goes directly onto the motor shaft, it's a motorized saw and they are notorious for having wobble and runout on the blade.
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Long drive but thanks for the offer. I wish you lived down here.
