OCtoolguy

The trick with 3M 77 is to spray both surfaces and let it sit until it is almost dry to the touch. Then slap them together. Very much like contact cement.

I too would be writing those letters but I don't speak or write Chinese. Sad! Anyway, I hope you get a better on this time around. Had it been me, I might have popped the extra for a Dewalt at H/D. Of course, I have no idea what that difference might have been. Maybe too much. Anyway, best of luck.

There are many answers to your question. But, I think everybody wants to get the best deal they can on a "NAME" brand product. As Dan said, Delta used to be a respectable brand name. I too had a Delta Unisaw and a Delta drill press. They were both great tools. I also had a Delta 14" band saw that I bought before the Laguna came out. Anyway, I digress. Folks come here to get an answer to their questions as to which scroll saw to buy. We, as a group, try to give good advice. Once again, the Dewalt name used to be a great name but it has gone downhill. We suggest that the newbies buy the best they can afford. If that means a $100 saw, well, they will get what they paid for. I've heard that many folks have dropped out of the hobby because of the frustration of a cheap saw. When I came into the hobby, I read a ton and asked a lot of questions. I couldn't afford $500 for a new Dewalt but that was the saw that was suggested at that time. I found a good used one on C/L. From that point on, I just kept experimenting and buying/selling as I went. I now have 2 great saws but I still would not have laid out the big bucks for either one. With the Delta, it seems to be a crapshoot as to whether you will get a good saw or a problem saw. Depends mostly on who is putting it together, what day of the week and who inspects it prior to shipping. It's the same with most everything you buy today. We need to get manufacturing back into this country. Vote intelligently!!

I'm working on my second million. I got tired and gave up on the first one.

Glad I was able to help. That's what we do here at the Village.

One of my customers, years ago, gave me a package of industrial quality 1/8" drill bits. I'm still using them and I think I have a half package left. Great stuff. While we are on the subject, does anybody buy/try the drill bits from H/F? The prices are great if the bits are any good. I made the mistake of buying some cheap brad point bits off Amazon and it was money wasted. They looked good in the picture but the tips are off center.

I guess that's why I buy mostly used stuff. I know going in that I might have to do some work on it but usually not. I recently bought a used Excalibur 16 and brought it home. I turned it on and ran it through the rpm range and it vibrated a bit as expected. After all it wasn't clamped down. Anyway, long story longer, I clamped it to the workbench and ran it up again. Much better that time. But, I just went ahead and torn it apart to check the bearings/sleeves and make sure everything was ok on the inside. I now have a real jewel of a saw. Actually two saws as I did the same with my EX 21. As far as I'm concerned, let the first buyer be the guinea pig. I don't mind scraping up the pieces. So sorry to hear of your bad experience though. It's a definite example of the times we live in and why we MUST get manufacturing back into this country. Vote wisely.

I have 2 Ex's and they are not sealed bearings. They are caged roller bearings with sleeves running through them. There may be one or two sealed bearings at the motor/crankshaft but not at any of the pivot points. It's almost identical to the Dewalt.

Oh just go for it!

You will wonder how you ever got along without a band-saw. I use mine all the time. I don't have a dedicated table saw. I have to wheel it outdoors and set it up so I make lots of quick cuts on my band-saw. Very handy.

I followed the 3 part video by Bob Brokaw and did the whole process on my Dewalt. It helped a lot. Since then I have acquired 2 Excaliburs and have done the parts that are easily accessible. I highly recommend doing a complete service on this type of mechanism. The subject of grease attracting sawdust was raised earlier in this thread. To a certain extent that might be right. But the sawdust is much softer than the bearings/sleeves and should not cause any negative effect. The grease, or lack of it, will have far more detrimental effect than the sawdust will. In most cases it's not difficult to take a shop towel and wipe those spots and keep them clean. It's the cheapest way to extend the life of your saw.

If I'm not wrong, it should have 3 blade clamps of differing slot sizes. Make sure you get the key for the clamps. If it has the front tension release as mentioned that is important. Also, if it has the knurled upper clamp knob that is nice too. When I bought my Hegner I tried it and it seemed to work fine but after getting it home I realized that it had a speed problem. The saw has a "soft start" and mine would seem to search for the speed that I had it set to. I never did determine whether it was a problem or not. I sold it. But I'm still searching for the right deal. It sounds like yours is a good deal if it works well. Best of luck.

I did a quick search for a manual and found this download. I hope it helps. 18317.pdf

There are many bearings/ sleeves on your saw and I'll bet they've never been serviced. My suggestion is, before you use it, tear it all apart and inspect every bearing and sleeve. Replace any that have wear patterns on them. Lubricate with Valvoline synthetic grease. Don't wash out the bearings. Wipe them clean as much as you can. Don't use any kind of spray on them. It will leave a coating on the bearings that repels grease. I learned that lesson the hard way. It's going to be a great saw once you have serviced and adjusted it. Enjoy. I'll bet you can find an owner's manual online somewhere. That would be a great starting point. There may even be one here on SSV. There is a section for them.

Welcome to the Village Kevin. I felt the exact same way 6 year's ago as a total newbie. I have learned so much from this great group. Good luck with your saw.

Yes, Pegas chucks for sure. When I mount a blade on my EX, I position the blade into the top clamp so that the top of the blade is just right at the top of the clamp. Then I install the blade into the bottom clamp. Once that's done, I loosen the top back up and pull down on the upper part of the mechanism to take any slack out of it and re-tighten the upper clamp. I hated the old EX upper clamp.

Yeah, I'll be Kevin is right. Good luck.

Scrap pile?

Bill, I'm going on 78 and what I don't know would fill many a foot locker. I'm glad you got something from what I wrote but none of it is gospel truth. There are many folks here with a lot more knowledge than me. I just seem to muddle my way through. Best of luck. By the way, I was born in Wisconsin. I'm so happy my folks left when I was 6. Racine is not a wonderful place to live now.

OldHudson said it and we all seem to agree with his suggestion. I too have a bunch of old sanding discs that were given to me by a neighbor and I have been doing it this way for a couple of years.

I completely agree with you Les. I have a Fein vac/DustDeputy that I had plumbed to my first scroll saw. When I sold that saw, I decided to have a dedicated dust collection system for each of my two scroll saws. I am using essentially the same systems as you except I have 2 of the MetroVac500's along with the mini cyclones. I still use the Fein but for other things like cleaning around the shop. I put together a Ridgid 14 gallon vac with a Dustopper from H/D for my table saw and router table when I work outdoors. There are so many ways to go on this subject that I feel that it all depends on your individual needs. I think the best thing I had purchased so far for dust is my Wen air cleaner. I have it mounted up above my primary scroll station and let it run whenever I'm in my shop. It does a great job of cleaning the air that I breathe. I also wear a dust mask with changeable filters. Another great system that works and is very cheap is the 20 inch box fan with a furnace filter attached to it. I found that it caught most of the dust that was being blown off my scroll saw table.

I might also suggest that you start a new topic with appropriate title since this one is almost 2 years old.

Does it have much movement with the clamp in place? I'm thinking that the whole mechanism depends on being complete. Yours does seem a bit "wobbly" but it should tighten up with all pieces in place and snugged up. Have you adjusted the set screws on both clamps so they are in alignment? Very important that they are.

I just watched this video. Other than the fact that this guy is a "craftsman", he presented a lot of info and a couple of what I would call just the right ways to go. I was enthralled with the way his thought process worked. I am in awe of his ability to think, reason and design. Everything in his shop is done just the right way. It's 45 minutes of pure enjoyment. At least it was for me. I want him for my neighbor.

Not sure but it might have been the backer that warped. I've heard that strange things happen when gluing to only one side. Internal forces at work.