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I've had a Cameo Silhouette for a few years and it works great. Pretty much only use it to cut vinyl for sandblasting glass. I've used the software for scroll saw patterns often.

As for me I use a lot of ML Campbell's precatalyzed Magnamax Lacquer. I also use a lot of their woodsong stain. It's acetone based and can be sprayed with Lacquer after just 20 to 30 minutes.

A mix similar to Danish oil would be equal parts of BLO,mineral spirits,and an oil based vanish. I say equal parts but it can be modified to personal likes,and some people us Naptha or Turpentine as the thinner but I always just used Mineral spirits. You can also just thin down a varnish for a wipe on finish.

I use a laser printer,I make my patterns in grey and it prints them in grey. If I use a pattern made by some one else that's black I change it from black to grey in a photo program.

A lot of it sold is B/BB or BB/BB B is the good side,no plugs,limited pin knots. BB has more knots and a limited number of plugs I get 1/8" stuff from Wurth wood group, B/BB for about $17.50 A 5'X5' sheet. They're over 100 miles away but they deliver in my area twice a week. There's one in Atlanta.

I tried selling some stuff for the first time last weekend. It was at a local Zoo, Only made $30,not many people came by but I kept busy sanding fuzzies off stuff I'm working on, with the Pink Flamenco's and other birds squawking away at me.

With nicks all three blades will have the same nick in line. I had a Dewalt planer years ago and can't remember if you can shift the blades a little but if you can so the nicks don't line up it will help. If not maybe flip one back around to the other side so it mismatches. I actually have a tool grinder/sharpener and do all my sharpening in house but I don't mess with those disposable blades,I just replace them.

I think this video addresses that

My guess is it's an Oliver 36"scroll saw A guy on a site I visit got an old Beach no.1 ceiling mount scroll saw running. http://www.contractortalk.com/f40/beach-no-1-ceiling-mounted-scroll-saw-142822/

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Well cutting the boards is the easy part, and you're generally not going to be getting a cutting board out of one piece of wood. I use scraps,usually any combo of Cherry,Birch,or Walnut The gluing,planing, sanding takes more time,especially for endgrain as I said that's an extra step/glueup.. I use a drum sander which is perfect for them.

I also have my saw set up next to the woodstove in the shop, got the tv working out there today,hasn't worked in ages.

Sorry,lost internet for a bit. Edge is easier but not as good. Picture it as a paintbrush. With the paintbrush laid flat if you cut on it you will cut the bristles but if on end the knife will go in between the bristles. Figure you have a 6"x12" board 3/4" thick . For edge grain cut it in strips 1 1/2" wide,turn on edge you get a 3"x12" board=36 sq inches. For end grain cut 1 1/2" strips off the 6" end ,turn up on end grain and you get a 6"x6" board=36 square inches. End grain adds a step as you rip and glue the edges,often with contrasting wood to make a pattern, then after it dries you rip the end into strips to whatever depth you want the board to be then flip up on end and glue again.

Same

There's different ways to do it but I use my wet saw that's used for cutting tiles.