CharleyL

That saw sells new for $1200. If you use the rule that used machine values are about 1/2 of new I wouldn't go much over $600, depending on how bad I wanted it. Charley

Meisel was a good company to do business with the last time that I ordered from them (about 10 years ago). They once participated in The Woodworking Shows too, but I haven't seen them do that in a very long time. I liked their products, because they were different than you could find anywhere else. This problem is a surprise to me. I hope you can get it resolved. Charley

Any of the better photo processing software will do this, even the Photoshop Elements package that was getting included free with many scanner and photo printers. Gimp, Corel Draw, Inkscape, etc. will all do it. Since you are new at this, see if one of your friends has an old copy of Photoshop Elements that they will give you. It will get you started quickly. You can get better software as you learn more. I once did photo retouching and image composition using Photoshop, so if you end up with a copy of Photoshop or Photoshop Elements, even an older version, send me PM and I'll get you started doing what you want. It's quite easy. Charley

Electric kitchen knives cut foam real well, even mattress type memory foam, but if you need to cut curves and follow lines closely you will likely do better with a scroll saw and spiral blades run at a slow enough speed to not melt the foam. You want it to cut, not melt. Start at the slowest speed and gradually increase the speed on a piece of scrap to find the best speed and then cut your letters at that speed or slightly slower. Charley

It's difficult for people to grasp the force of 1 atmosphere, which is the air pressure all around us. In PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) it is only 14.7 PSI, but if you push on something with a lot of surface area from one side only this force is quite huge. A 12" X 12" area has a force of 14.7 pounds for each square inch of it's surface, which is 12 X 12 or 144 times 14.7 which equals 2,116.8 pounds. So if your vacuum could remove a;; of the air from your container there would be over a ton of force for every square foot of surface area of your container trying to squeeze the sides together. No thin metal or plastic container that I know of can stand up to this. Fortunately, our vacuum systems aren't capable of removing all the air, or we would need a safe vault for our dust collector, but even 20% removal of the air can cause very large forces, enough to easily collapse a plastic bucket. My Dust Deputy has a plastic bucket under it and it remained round while I was using my shop vac as the vacuum source, but then I moved my Dust Deputy to an old Whole House Central Vacuum System that I had re-purposed for use in my shop. Within seconds of accidentally plugging the inlet on the vacuum hose I heard a whump noise and the vacuum had collapsed my 5 gal plastic bucket. I had planned to use a 30 gallon metal drum, but didn't yet have one. After thinking about the bucket for a while I noticed that the buckets were ribbed on the outside of the upper 1/3 of their height. I put three of these 5 gal plastic buckets inside each other and got ribs all the way down the upper 3/5 of the stack and tripled the thickness of the bottom 2/5 of the stack. I now have the Dust Deputy connected to the lid of the top bucket and can run my vacuum without collapsing my top 5 gal bucket. The buckets that I'm using are from the Firehouse Subs Franchise. They formerly contained dill pickles. Firehouse Subs sells these buckets for $1.50 each and donates the proceeds to the local fire companies. These are the strongest plastic 5 gal buckets that I've found anywhere, but they make the sawdust smell like dill pickles. I don't care, because I dispose of it in my compost pile anyway. However, if you exhaust your vacuum into your shop air your shop might smell like dill pickles when you use the vacuum, until all the smell finally comes out of the bucket (a long time). I've tried removing the smell before using them, but the only thing that seems to have any effect on them is to leave them outside, open and facing the Sun for a few weeks. Even this doesn't completely work, so my vacuum exhaust is now routed outside through the wall. My son recently found me the 30 gal metal barrel that I've been wanting, so I will be converting to it as soon as I make the time to do it. I'll be making a new top for the barrel out of two pieces of 3/4 birch plywood, one to just fit in the barrel and the top one larger in diameter than the barrel. They will be screwed and sealed together using caulking instead of glue. I'll install the rubber O-ring seal that I removed from the metal barrel lid around the smaller diameter piece of plywood so this new lid assembly seals well when installed. The Dust Deputy will then be mounted through a hole in the center of this plywood lid and sealed to the plywood with caulking. You don't want any leakage into the collection barrel through the lid or through the Dust Deputy connection. Charley

Send the "Barbra" sign to Barbra Streisand. She spells her name that way, and would probably appreciate receiving it. Charley

I think you did a great job, but I'm not the end user. The big question is "Does the bird like his new home ?" Charley

Yup, it will turn silver gray, in time, on it's own. The only finish that I might apply would be to the lettering. Choose a color that will be easy to read on a silver gray background. Charley

I made a scroll saw and floor sweeping dust collector from an old whole house central vacuum that came from the house next door when they major remodeled. It's now my "Whole Shop Floor Vacuum Cleaner" but mostly for the scroll saws. when I first tried to use it I wasn't happy with how fast the internal filter clogged up, but then a friend was closing his commercial wood shop and sold me an Oneida Dust Deputy. I installed it in the vacuum line ahead of the whole shop vacuum system last Summer and so far it has separated out almost 15 gallons of fine sawdust. Nothing seems to make it past the Dust Deputy. The filter inside the vacuum is still as clean as it was when I first turned the vacuum on. I installed the piping in my shop walls and have inlets upstairs, downstairs, and one through the wall of my shop next to the passage door, so I can vacuum the cars and my truck with it. The exhaust goes out through the wall of my shop, so even the sub micron dust, if it should be getting past the filters, doesn't make it back into my shop. To collect the sawdust from the scroll saws, so far I've just tie-wrapped the hose end to the lower blade guard on the saw, but the vacuum level is pulling all of the sawdust from the bottom of the blade over into it anyway. That whole house unit has awesome suction. Now I'm trying to come up with a way to put vacuum near the top of the blade without interfering with my ability to see and cut. About 25% of the sawdust is coming off the top of the blade and I've got to find a way somehow to collect it. Charley

Do you have a printer big enough to print it full size? Most print shops have photo quality wide format inkjet printers that could do it on one sheet of paper up to 60" wide X whatever length you need. Printing it sideways would get you 3 copies on one sheet. It might be worth paying them to print them for you. I have one of these printers and would do it for you, but the printer is in need of service right now. Charley

Blowing out isn't the whole answer. You have to let clean cool air in too. Is the other end of your work space an overhead door? It will need to at least be part way open to let clean air in so the exhaust fans can work efficiently. However, I suspect that very soon you are going to want all of the air circulation that you can possibly get when Florida gets hot and humid for the Summer and maybe 5 or 6 fans in that door would be better . Try adding an old canister vacuum to your scroll saw. Just tie-wrapping the end of the hose under the saw table and near the blade will collect about 3/4 of the saw dust, all of what comes off the bottom end of the blade. Catching it as much as possible at the source will make a big difference. Charley

I use a plastic template, 1/4 inch up cut router bit and 3/8 router bushing in my small router to cut holes for clocks. I stick the plastic template to the project with double sided tape and then just rout out the hole to the depth needed (usually 1/4"). It leaves a very clean hole without the groove around the bottom edge and the spur hole in the center that you get when using a forstner bit. Maybe this isn't important to you since it doesn't show with the clock in place, but I prefer it. Just another way to do it, if you have a small router. Charley

65 years ago my uncle was the first to teach me about using table saws and other power tools. He had a "6 inch rule" that he taught me that has saved my hands and fingers all these years. It's a simple rule "Never, under any circumstances, let your fingers and hands get closer than 6 inches from the exposed cutting parts of a power tool", in this case the table saw (of course, this can't be applied to scroll saws). He told me that if doing that ever became necessary, to stop woodworking and find a different "safer" way to do it. The 6 inch rule also applies to reaching over the cutting blade, so I've learned to work around the table saw so that I don't have to reach over the blade for any reason. My out feed table is as long as my table saw top so there is never a reason to need to reach over the blade to catch an off cut or work piece. This is the rule that I've followed all these years (I'm 74 now) and all has gone well until I bought Grrippers 8 years ago. When using them it's necessary to hold the handle and pass the Grripper over the blade for most cuts, requiring me to put my fingers less than 2" above the blade. It took me almost 6 months to mentally accept that using a Grripper this way was OK and safe, because there is a plastic guard between my fingers and the blade, and when using a Grripper it is necessary to set the blade height to just above the work thickness, which leaves about a 1" air gap between the blade tips and the plastic guard part of the Grripper, but when not using a Grripper the 6" rule still applies to every power tool that I use. I never use a blade guard on my table saw, but I always use a pop-up splitter when ripping solid wood. I don't use a blade guard, because much of what I'm usually doing cannot be done with a blade guard in place, but I always have a way to hold the work down as well as push it through the saw, router table, etc. if it is small enough to cause my hands and fingers to be closer than 6". Long thin push sticks are only used when pushing narrow pieces under or past Feather Boards that are holding the work down and against the fence, and they are a foot or more long. My other work feeding jigs are all designed to hold the work down as well as push it, and the off cut, forward with my hands and fingers located well away from the blades. Again, the "6 inch rule" keeps me safe. I WOULD NEVER USE A BAND SAW without some kind of cover over the wheels to keep the blade from coming completely off as I was using it. I once worked in a metal shop and saw the results of one of these accidents. It wasn't pretty, and he was out of work for over 2 months. He needed almost 100 stitches in both arms and his face. Charley

Look closely at the end of the original wing screw and the end of the new lever screw. The original is very flat, and I believe that it has a pivoting end, so it just clamps the blade without any rotational force. The new lever screw is likely not flat on the end, and even less likely has the pivot piece, so as you tighten it against the blade it is applying rotational force in addition to the clamping force. I believe this rotational force is what's bending your blades. Charley

Mike, You are only about 3 miles from one of the best Domestic and Imported wood lumber companies in the Northeast. If anybody can supply you with what you are looking for, they can. Their warehouse is on South Greenhaven Road (Across the street from the prison). Look for M L Condon Lumber Company. That Greenhaven location was just a warehouse when I lived there and their main office was in White Plains, but they told me (just as I was moving away) that they would get me whatever I needed from White Plains and have it sent up on the next truck. Before that I was driving all the way to White Plains to buy from them. The Greenhaven location is over 4X as big as it was 30 years ago, so they may even have the ability to cut and sell direct to you from there now. It's definitely worth a visit to see what they can do for you. That's some mighty thin wood that you are looking for and the width will likely require a glue-up, but it doesn't hurt to ask. I agree with NC Scroller. If you can get it that size, don't stockpile it, as it is highly likely to warp and twist over time, maybe even after you cut and finish it. You would be much better off using veneer plywood if you need it to stay flat. There was also a lumber company in the downtown area of Pleasant Valley that I used to buy from, but I can't remember the name. My last purchase from them was 2 X 10 (finished dimension) quarter sawn select grade white pine to make table tops for a Western Style Restaurant. My son used some of my left overs from that job to make a coffee table in high school shop that I still have. Charley

Kevin, I believe you made a great find, if you need a door stop. In my opinion, those aren't worth using for much more that a door stop in that condition. Certainly not worth the effort to make it run like new again, because even when new they weren't very good saws. Charley

Be careful to only use SPAR Marine Varnish for outdoor work. The Sun will quickly destroy other varnishes and many paints, if not specifically designed to resist the Sun and extreme temperature and humidity changes of the outdoors. A good spar varnish resists cracking and stays slightly flexible. It also contains materials that are not affected by UV rays from the Sun. I haven't used their clear coating, yet, but from the success that I've had using some of their other products, I believe that their clear coat will make a great long lasting outdoor finish. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/. What I used was a gas tank interior coating kit from them that made a gas tank with 1/4" of rust inside better than new. That was 4 years ago and it's still just like it was when I first finished using their kit. Charley

It has to do with where in the rotation of the motor that it stops. If it stops with the blade position all the way down, there is a cam flat spot where the mechanism won't slide either way off that cam position. If the motor stops anywhere else, lifting the arm will force the mechanism and the motor to rotate, in effect allowing the blade to move to it's full up position. A slight bump of the motor switch/foot pedal will run the motor far enough for the cam to be off of this flat spot, and the arm will lift to it's full up position. There's nothing wrong with your saws. It's just something you have to live with and learn to work around. Bumping the motor position with the power or foot switch is the easiest way around it. Of course, they could have added hardware and switches to your saw to keep it from stopping there, but that would have raised the price of the saw significantly. Charley

The Wooden Teddy Bear has them, so you can add them to your next blade order. Charley

One other test, though it's probably futile, is to leave the motor disconnected, but the rest of the electrical hooked up, and see if the fuse blows. This will determine if the problem is really the motor, or some place else in the circuitry. It would be a shame to put the saw to rest if the problem was just in the power switch or wiring. If the motor is truly bad, then sell the rest as spare parts to someone and get an Excalibur. If the problem is somewhere else in the wiring it may be an easy and cheap fix. Charley

The Tung Oil that is available in many stores will dry to the touch in about 24 hours, if there isn't any thick build-up anywhere, but it seems to take weeks to completely dry. When it loses it's distinctive odor, it's finally really dry. I like oil finishes, because they make the visual appearance of the wood grain "Pop", but I have gotten away from Tung oil because I don't like the smell and the long time that it takes for this smell to go away. I now prefer "mixes" of BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil), MS (Mineral Spirits) and POLY (Polyurethane), and usually a mix of about 1/3 of each. This will create a thin and easy to apply finish that dries to the touch in less than 24 hours that has a more pleasing smell, however this smell will still last several days. For thicker coats, I reduce the amount of MS in the mix. Be careful when using BLO and oil finishes. Bunching rags with BLO on them in a pile as they are drying can produce enough heat from this reaction to cause a fire. The drying BLO absorbs oxygen from the air as it dries, which creates a chemical reaction that gives off heat. Always spread rags that have BLO on them so that both sides can release this heat into the air easily so the air cools them and they don't overheat. I used to drape mine over a chain link fence, but now use a better second method, which is to soak them in a pail of water for 24 hours before discarding them. NEVER leave them in your shop after you have used them, and don't go to lunch with one bunched up on the corner of your bench, or your shop might burn down. Other oils and oil type finishes can do this too, but BLO is one of the worst for this. Charley

Welcome Charlie, from another Charley. To attach files and photos, go to "More Reply Options" at the bottom right of your post. On the bottom of that screen you will be able to select "Choose Files" that are on your computer. A window will open showing files on your computer. Select the correct file and then select "Open" on that window. Be careful not to try to upload any files that are larger than 64 meg in size. It's easy to exceed this size limit. When each file has been selected and that window closes, you should see your chosen file listed on that screen. Then click "Add to post" on the right. You can add as many files and photos as you want, one at a time, but each has to be less than 64 Meg in size. A good, Free, and easy to use program for reducing photo sizes is "Irfanview", available for download from the internet. Just search the internet for "Irfanview". The safest website that I know of for download is www.twocows.com. Be sure to download both files. When reducing photos, keep them at 72 DPI for best viewing on the computer and save this reduced file separately from your "Original" photo. I add LoRes to the file name to keep this copy separate from the original. A 3" X 5" photo at 72 DPI saved as a .jpg file may be the largest you can upload. You just need to experiment to keep them under 64 meg in size. Charley

On the green ones, it looks like you need a little touch up. Otherwise, you did great. Was this all done in one day? If so, you've been busy. Charley

I'm not familiar with your particular blade grip, but hare are some suggestions. A hollow pin, like a blind (pop) rivet type pin can be drilled out easily, but the black steel roll pins and the round solid pins are as hard as most drill bits, so drilling them out will not work. A machine shop could EDM these out and then clean up the hole, but this will be expensive. Is this pin sticking out enough to grab with locking pliers? If not, you may need to press it out or use Kevin's method. One other thing to check if trying to press or hammer it out is to be certain that it is NOT in a blind hole and it has a path to travel safely out the other side. If not, heavy pressing or pounding will certainly end in a disaster. Can you post pictures? Charley

Wayne, The lights are ON in the pictures that I posted in that link. Do they look too bright? They aren't quite as bright as the halogen drafting board lights that I was using prior to switching to these LED lights from Lowes, but the light that they provide is whiter and shows the pattern lines better. All I can suggest is that you go to a Lowes store and try out one of these lights. Plug it in and light it up right there in the store. As soon as I went through the lighting section of my local Lowes store and saw one of these lights lit up, I knew that I had to have two of them to replace those halogen drafting board lights on my DeWalt scroll saw. NC Scroller has recently added them to his saw. Maybe he will reply to this post with his opinions. Charley