Joe Duncan

They are coming. For sure it didn't turn out the way I thought. So I just painted them. But what I did find out that pine is one difficult wood to stain and come out looking half way looking good. What I have learned is gluing. Don't wipe when still wet, even it is just drop. I was pushing the glue right into the wood, to which I don't have to tell you what happens when you stain it. I am going to do one more this time, lucky for me I have friend who works in hard wood supply company. He let me have some Philippine Mahogany wood going to give it try.

so far I have completed 3 baskets. Each one a little better than the last one. My butt joints are getting tighter, which makes a big difference. Took the advice and made some jigs for gluing. So I gotta say thanks again to everyone.

ok, having a few issues on making these baskets, its all me for sure. I have made a few attempts. Completed 2, One was ok, but screwed up on the stain.. The second completed in dry assemble. I can't get the top joints to be tight fitting. I will try to show you what particular joint type I am speaking of. Its not the square ones, but the ones what attaches the top rings together. I will say I am getting better on cutting. I can't count how many attempts I have made. Other issue is this "CA glue". I thought this was my answer for immediate on a quick fixes. I bought it "Rockler", so I know it was the good stuff. But for the life of me I can't make it work. So what do you think I am doing wrong. I have to be missing something. It did say I can use a activator. That was just option. Thanks

I was born in Salina, grad 68 Salina High

Very interesting, you can a dye to the lacquer. Where and what on the "dye". Where can I find it and what is the brand to do you prefer. Any links would help..............thanks for the tip.

Thank good that you all understood I didn't make the one I posted. But I will upload the one I did. Using that #5 blade makes a big difference, like night and day. With that being said, I did find a hot tip on using a Aquarium pump for clearing out the dust,,that helps big time. Once again thanks for all advice

OK rookie here, I had to go down to "Rockler" and I saw this 788 ........what a saw, then I look at the price and you would think this machine is ready to cut. Now is this just me, or I am missing something. You would think they would come up with greaseless bearings. I understand maintenance. But it sounds like as soon as you get it out of the box start greasing up. just my thought

No, no I didn't cut basket, this was just a photo. (sample). So using a smaller number blades gives you tighter joints.........good tip ..........thanks

OK, finally I got the photo uploaded.. No wonder why I like the #12, I am a rookie, here I thought it was going to be my best blade for cutting 1/2" pine. I sure did have more control of the blade. Another lesson learned. Many thanks again

I used 1/2" pine. thanks for the tip. I sure do hear a lot about these flying Dutchman. I guess I will check out Amazon for the blades. I order the combo crown blades. I heard great reviews...........so

Looking on to how to upload photo, rookie here

Just a fyi, just finished my first basket. O what learning experience that was. The following lessons learned: 1. not a race, take your time 2. use quality blades. 3. Learn from Scroll saw Village, wealth of information here. 4. It called for a #5 reverse, All I had was #12 crown blades (sure do like those) Note to self. I wonder if I used the #5 would my joints be tighter? any thoughts from the masters'

Just to thank you all for chiming in. I think I have a direction now

Good idea........ I have to think a small lever for sure.