ScollSaw Slasher

Funny, doing the same piece right now. I'd say it's oak which I used for the lighter shade of the nose. My log though is the mystery piece which I sanded and wondered where did this one come from because the sanding revealed a totally different shade. Not sending a pic because I already textured and burned the log section. Blake

Well I've been called "The Sleazebag" {stage name), guitar man, Doc, "Hey You" and a host of many other names unfit for publication. But in those immortal words, "You can call me anything but late for supper". Blake

Excellent artistic endeavors by both you and the wife. Always scares me when I think of the number of separate cuts I'll have to make on a project. If I thought about it before hand, probably wouldn't attempt anything of such quality that you have achieved.

Thanks for the comps. Didn't realize the e had broken in the spoiled cat until I posted. Must of happened when gluing up to the backer board. Will attempt to replace that micro cut. E's always have been a pain in word art for me.

Haven't showed much lately so I figured I'd upload a few pics. Wood Spirit by Steve Good from some scrap mahogany, Spoiled Cat by Steve Good from some scrap pine, Leopard from who knows where I got the pattern out of some scrap poplar and finally a JGR intarsia eagle out of aspen, basswood, red oak and walnut.

Thanks for the review Kevin. Those sharp point cuts have been known to drive me nuts every once in awhile, especially in some of my intarsia cutting. Some days one has it, other days it's just not there.

Hey, for the price of $12.99, just put it in the order from Amazon. I really get tired flipping that lighted magnifier arm back and forth to re hole the saw blade being a bottom feeder. We will see!

Get mine from Amazon at about $15.00 a piece. Different grits and after a year and a half, still haven't totally worn out the first one, and that's with a lot of intarsia sanding. STAR SANDER 1/4" SHANK 120 GRIT By Peachtree Woodworking - PW2

Well I just cut about 40 spots on a leopard pattern yesterday afternoon, and it's performing much better. So I guess it was worth the aggravation. Be holding off for awhile in my new saw quest because it's getting to be traveling time in Rudy the Roadtrek RV.

Forgot to add that I haven't had too much luck with Dremels. Burned out two of them and the variable speed control on the current one is flaky. Luckily, neighbor handed me a one use new one two months ago since he never uses it. My wife uses a B&D clone that I picked up over 20 years ago for cleaning up her Christmas village plaster buildings before painting and it's still going strong. And does she do a fantastic job. But I can paint our whole house faster than she can complete on of those little buildings! LOL

Also have the 16"Delta belt driven floor model and once I set up the speed to cut the cups for Euro door hinges so many years ago, haven't changed it since. Of course I've used it for my clock inserts when I use to do clocks, but now it principally holds my sanding mops for intarsia work. Takes up floor space and weighs a ton, but couldn't live without it. But like you Kevin, still searching for an area to have a smaller set up such as John has mentioned with all the attributes that he mentioned.

Sorry I got the "Saw Wars" started up. The only reason I mentioned Iggy was that he was having problems with his purchase from the get-go and it wasn't just about speed. Actually, I'm a slow cutter and even with the Delta the speed knob is only set from 5 to 50%. But I do expect any new equipment to be ready to plug and play. Yes, a scroll saw needs to be squared up before using but that should be it. My whole life, I've needed equipment that was reliable and down time was not an option. If things broke, needed to be fixed immediately or replaced and that replacement better work without calls to the factory or weeks of tweaking. So that's my mentality on the subject even though I scroll strictly for pleasure and give away 90% of what I do. Only reason I mentioned Seyco is that since it's so new on the market, haven't seen many opinions except for Steve's. Checked the other forums and gleaned more knowledge about that particular saw. Thanks to all for your input, especially for the tips on how to make it easier to tear into one of these things just in case madness overtakes me again (which it will).

Yes, it is a pain that one has to almost completely disassemble to work on. All though I've bought used tools, more prone to buy them new so I don't have to go through the fix em up stage since I've stated that I'm a mechanical putz. Yes, the Ex 16 and 21 are tantalizing but the question goes back to are there parts or not. Is there anyone out there that has bought the Seyco and what's your thoughts on it.

Well my Delta 40-694 saw started to make some more noise and wasn't cutting as efficiently ( the curse of Deltas and DeWalts). 2 1/2 years old with some moderately tough cutting for my intarsia projects and fretwork projects. So I bit the bullet and decided it was time to take it apart and service it. Now you guys and gals have to realize that I'm a mechanical putz but fearless. Well with parts flying everywhere and banging up my dainty hands, got it apart. Bearing sleeves looked good and decided to just grease everything and put it back together. Now of course finding the right nut, bolt washer etc etc. was a challenge for my feeble neurons, but lo and behold it's back together and running. It's still not quite as good when I took it out of the box new, but much better. I realized two things. One, they are PIA to work on and probably will never do it again. Two, will be searching for the scroll saw of my dreams when I win the lotto. Right now the Seyco intrigues me since Steve Good likes it so much. Forget the Hawk with Iggys problems. I can buy a lot of beer for the price of a Hegner. So it's on to a few more projects with the Delta. Opinions are welcome.

That is one awesome piece of woodworking. Now I'm kicking myself for getting rid of the lathe because of disuse and need for room for my scraps LOL.

Since I do intarsia as well as fretwork, keep some pretty small scraps of 5-20 dollar a board foot lumber, strewn across the garage in about 5 different areas. They do'n't call me "MR ORGANIZED" without a reason. LOL. About every six months, put on some good country music (actually, about the only time I listen to country, I cut to metal or classic rock) and clean the mess up reorganizing the place. Well after the first project it's back to chaos. So in response to the initial question of this thread, I'm not your source for good info.

Glue ups are possible with 1/4" hardwoods. The trick is doing it on a perfectly flat non stick table, square edges of the stock what ever it is, light clamping pressure, weighing it down from the top to prevent bowing from the clamps and allowing sufficient time for the glue to set up. Have done larger panels this way. Think about guitar tops which are even thinner than 1/4".

Thanks for the info Dick. Never thought about stack cutting. Blake

Fantastic. Tried the Grandmother one and had a disaster of breaking off one the outside swirls. Modified a little and it was a gift from my granddaughter to her other grandma. Those outside edges are tender. What blade did you use?

Ah printers. i have had Brothers, HP, Cannons etc ink jets. Currently have an Epson XP-650 for about three years. Don't know if it's still available but it's been a pretty good printer. The thing about printers is no matter who the manufacturer, they give them away to lock you into the ink cartridges. Very high profit margins. To solve this (on my 4th batch of colored cartridges), I buy the knock offs from Amazon or some of the other internet ink sellers at a 60 to 80 % savings. Only on that last batch did I get that famous message "you're not using genuine Epson ink" and the printer quit working. Well a few little tweaks I had it up and running. This happened right after I had a supposed software upgrade from Epson. So the lesson learned is if you get the new printer running, forget the automatic updates etc. that the company offers, especially if you are using knock off inks.

I wood have to agree with Dan for future projects. Yes, the cost factor increases dramatically, but I personally stay away from Baltic Birch ply for a project such as this. I only use plywood as a backer or eventually a painted surface from intricate scroll saw work to cabinetry. No matter what one does, that cut visible edge of ply shows, and nine times out of ten, it's ugly and ruins the project to my eyes.

Have been all over the country and would have to agree that Eastern Tennessee or western Carolina would be an easy place to set my roots down even though the summers in Florida don't bother me that much. Wife and I always thought we would get a place up that way for five or six months. But a long awaited grand daughter came along, and my wife said no way because of the joy that little gal gives to my wife. So we do a little RV traveling for at most three week trips, and oft times go to Tennessee. Isn't it a great country that we can enjoy so many different climates, topography's, etc. etc.

And speaking of wolves, here's one I did a couple of months ago. A JGR pattern. Looks more like a huskie than a wolf. Obviously, haven't sold it as yet because I just snapped the pic.

Go for it on the intarsia Kevin. It really increased my love of scroll sawing. But it's really tough to make any money at it as your doing now.. It's similar to the gigantic heirloom clocks. Too much time and not enough remuneration. But it will certainly bring out your artistic juices. So make the Mrs a gift on the side.

Great picture of the snake, but picking strawberries on my Grandfather's farm in Michigan many years ago, would have the occasion to run into black racers nearly that size. Of course I'm sitting here in my shorts waiting for day break to start working on my veggie garden. Moved away from that 45 years ago and don't miss it a bit. But different strokes makes the world go round.