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scrollntole

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  1. scrollntole
    SUCCESS! By following these instructions I determined that indeed the problem is the Switch. Dan, you saved me a trip to the Service Center and probably a lot of money -- Thank You very much. I can get a replacement for about $6 - to - $7 dollars on ereplacement. The key though is that you were right-on about how to determine the problem. Now we're all a little smarter! Thanks again, Vin
  2. scrollntole
    I visually inspected - very clean. However I did not try taping the two wires together as suggested. I'll give that a go and see. Thanks for the reminder.... Vin
  3. scrollntole
    OK, my final comment. Looks like JTTHECLOCKMAN has it right - see his comments just above - ... below is the latest advise from Delta Tech Support. The controller is an electronic circuit board Ref. # 74 on page 2 of the parts list. You will need to remove Ref. # 67 HOUSING (LEFT) to see it. We suggest using a service center for the repair. Regards, Delta Customer Care So, for the long run, I hope all this helps anyone else with this scroll saw and this problem. It's either the Switch of the Controller according to Delta Tech Supt. Good luck, and again I very much appreciate all the input from everyone. Vin
  4. scrollntole
    Ok - just a little more info regarding my travails with the scroll saw: I asked Delta Customer support about my issue and the fuse. This is their reply: "The fuse was replaced with a breaker so, just push the button. If that doesn't work then it may be a bad switch or controller. For service center use the following link: https://deltamachineryparts.com/#/service-centers" I have visually checked the switch and it is clean of any sawdust. In turn I've replied by asking what is a controller and where is it on the tool. It is not shown on the Parts Diagram for this saw. I'll let all of you know if I get something conclusive that's of value to all those who own this Delta scroll saw. Stay tuned.... Vin
  5. scrollntole
    Regarding a "fuse" get this: The Manual clearly identifies a "fuse" (see fig 10 on page 10) and includes instructions on using a tool to extract the fuse. BUT, a very big But, no tool ever came with the saw; plus the Parts Diagram also clearly identifies this as a "circuit breaker". The Manual and the Parts Diagram do not match. Looking at my saw it's a circuit breaker and I'm yet to figure a way to remove it. I'm having some luck with the on-off switch. I did find out about the 5-year warranty; I bought this in 2016 and of course I can't find the sales receipt. I'm typically more careful with receipts, but so far..... And I'm not trained nor have much experience with electricity, so sooner or later I may find myself bringing it to a shop for some work. Any other ideas? Thanks very much for all those who have responded - really appreciate you taking the time. Vin
  6. scrollntole
    Hi -- I'm looking for advise, hope someone can help. My 3-year old DELTA stopped working - will not start. This is my first ever issue. DELTA tech support is unresponsive - I've now been 'on hold' for 45 minutes, and counting. My guess is that either the on-off switch or the circuit breaker has failed. Question - has anyone had similar experience, and if so, how was it corrected? I can't find a way to get at the circuit breaker, it seems to be held in place by a plastic label, but I'm not sure how to remove the label so I can release the circuit breaker. Another question: how does one determine what exactly is the problem? Or it it one of those "keep changing parts and pieces" until you finally fix it.... Again, any advise is appreciated. Vin
  7. scrollntole
    Stunning. Terrific finish. My efforts seem so inconsequential compared to this. But I'll keep trying!!! Vin
  8. scrollntole
    Nicely done Frank. My wife is a Teacher too. What scared me about her career was the all too often school shootings. A bullet was once found in her school --- scared me a lot!! Sorry, my comments detract, you've done a neat job with a very nice pattern. Well Done! Vin
  9. scrollntole
    Hi ... several months ago I asked Steve Good about this and he suggested a lamp / magnifier from Harbor Freight. I bought it and have been satisfied with it... Vin
  10. scrollntole
    Well done. Quick question - how long do you think it took? Just curious... Vin
  11. scrollntole
    Your effort, and her designs, are truly some of the best I've ever seen. You can be proud - you've created a work of art. Vin
  12. scrollntole
    Not much of a back story with this one, but this was something I did when I started scrolling - the pattern just made me laugh, so I had to do it.
  13. scrollntole
    Good to read all the responses - thanks everyone for taking the time. To answer a couple questions and to be more thorough: * The red oak I've bought has always been 1/4 in thick. Typical size is 24 in by 8 in or 10 in wide. * I've never tried quarter sawn - I'll have to check price on that. And I've never tried to glue up pieces of less width. * pictures below are of two projects: 1. A box, a Sue Mey design, and I could just never get the top to stay flat. But at least I have the box! size is about 8 by 10; the top had a tab handle to lift it. 2. Not the best example, but I used a small piece of oak ply for the base of the box. You can see how the edge looks after applying Teak Oil finish. Again, thanks everyone for your input. Vin
  14. scrollntole
    I've become disenchanted with solid quarter inch thick Red Oak because of warpage and inability to flatten it consistently. So I tried some Oak plywood instead. No warpage; cutting seemed just fine; the surface looks good, less expensive. However I use Teak Oil to finish it. The surface looked good but the edge did not. The inner ply is MDF and the teak oil is sucked in to the ply and does not have the same "look" as the surface. I'm further disappointed. My current thoughts are to stick with solid wood - Ask is my favorite because of the grain - and to avoid oak altogether. Anyone have any experience or recommendations thoughts on this? Thanks, Vin
  15. scrollntole
    Hi Kirk ... about the second one down, that design came from a book called "Scroll Saw Basket Weave Projects" published by Fox Chapel Publishing, authors are John Nelson and William Guimond. It has twelve designs but please note that one of the designs is all wrong. Simply, the picture does Not match the detailed plans at all. I will say that Fox Chapel appreciated it when I pointed this out to them, to the point that I Will buy from them again. So, just be aware.... have a good one. Vin
  16. scrollntole
    Here are five bowls I've made this past winter that I hope customers at craft fairs will like. These designs usually attract good attention from folks at these fairs... Vin
  17. scrollntole

    Sam Custodio

    scrollntole commented on lawson56's pattern shop in Pattern Shop

    I think the facebook page is a waste, almost. Not nearly the number of patterns that were available just a month ago or so. VERY disappointed. Hope all those patterns aren't lost forever.... that would be such a shame.
  18. scrollntole
    Just a quick note - I have a Delta and have enjoyed using it now for two-and-a-half years. Trouble free. (And I hope it stays that way!!) I recommend it. I've owned only one other saw, a starter type, and I'm very glad I've moved on up to this unit. Vin
  19. scrollntole
    Hi -- well, here is my first project for the year - cut but unfinished at this point. It is a Dreamcatcher, a Sue Mey design. Small bit of a story here: the feathers are not from her design, but rather from a design she made available in the Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts magazine (winter 2018 issue). What she provided was a compound cut of several feather designs. Instead however I used her designs on some very warped pieces of Red Oak that I had. I had NO luck at all at flattening and then keeping flat those pieces, but I held on to them "just-in-case". It's hard to tell from the picture but each one of those feathers has a curve to it. I put the two designs together and what you see is what I came up with. Happy to share it.
  20. scrollntole
    Thanks - for making me laugh! Vin
  21. scrollntole
    Well, I've bookmarked your site for future use. Thanks also from me for being generous with your efforts. I tend to like to scroll landscape scenes - such as those located under the "Scenic" category in the pattern library. And since I'm from New England, any patterns specific to the northeast, or the seacoast, etc are very appreciated (by me anyway)! thanks again, Vin
  22. scrollntole
    I've been using Titebond myself. Try not to use too much... Vin
  23. scrollntole
    OK - as a follow up -- despite how enthusiastic I was - am - about doing this project, and my expectations of how people would react at the various craft fairs I go too --- well, Not a Single Customer picked up on the symbolism that I see !!! Talk about deflation (and a good laugh too). If I point it out to anyone ( God - Man, Man - Machine) then they get it, but not on their own. Turns out that the robotic hand doesn't look robotic enough. The mechanical arm just doesn't do it. We laugh every time I point it our to folks -- a good laugh, a fun moment. If I ever do it again I'll make that robotic hand look more "mechanical' somehow... So, just wanted to share my experience with it... have a great Holiday everyone! Vin
  24. scrollntole
    I followed Steve Good directions twice w/o luck. Same Red oak and thickness. Yet I've been OK if I take wood out of plastic wrapping and immediately start to cut. This keeps the warping to a minimum for me. That's my experience so far. Vin
  25. scrollntole
    I'm a Red Sox fan and it does my heart proud to see a Yankees fan do such a great job! Vin
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