starman

I have purchased this kit a couple of times from Seyco for my Excalibur. It consists of two set screws and two of the small pins with o-rings to replace the tips on the knobs. The cost is around $7 - 8. Some people have had success with refinishing by sanding the surfaces of the two parts. The issue is getting an absolute flat face on the tips. Some have made jigs by drilling a hole in a piece of wood to hold the parts vertically while sanding on a flat surface.

Thanks to all for this afvice.

I've had my Hegner 22 for 3 years now. I find bottom feeding to be a snap. The blade slides out so easily that I can insert it into a pilot hole and replace it on the saw faster than fumbling by feel, as I did with my Excalibur. The standard clamps are the best of any saw; however I still can't reach the "high C " sound on the Quick Clamp without blade slippage.

I am curious as to the blade tension used on your Hegner saws, particularly with the Quick Clamp. In YouTube videos By Advanced Machinery it was stated that you could turn the tension knob up to two full turns after the initial "snug point". If I turn much more than about 3/4 turn past the snug point, the Quick Clamp won't hold the blade. I sand the blades before clamping. The standard blade clamps are phenomenal in their gripping power, but I need the Quick Clamp for inside cuts. Even at 3/4 turn it is easy to pull 2/0 blades apart.

I bought blades regurlarly from Lesley Patterns with no problems. Several weeks ago i heard about the issues reported in this post. I googled their site to find that there were no hits. I assumed that they must have gone out of business. Today I googled again to find their web site back on line. One minor difference that I noted was the missing crucifix that they used to feature on the home page. This could suggest a change of ownership or operators of the site. I plan to follow up with a phone call to them.

I always match the clamp to the blade size, as you listed. However it is my experience that I break more blades (usually Pegas mg) with my Hegner than my Excalibur. The clamps are fantastic, but many breaks occur at the jaw of the clamp. I usually eject the 1/8 inch piece in the jaw and reclamp and retension the remaining blade. I also loosen the top screw about a quarter turn to allow the blade assembly more freedom of movement, but breaks still can occur.

Steve Good also posted a short video on this topic. Search his blog.

Papasworkshop provides a great product and great service.

This is the method I use on my Hegner. It is faster than bottom feeding on my Excalibur.

A number of people use Minwax Indigo stain for deeper blue.

I am working on intarsia project. Completed this one a couple of weeks ago.

I would like to get a copy of this particular issue. It contains a pattern for a novel 3-way compound cut for a baby grand piano. Perhaps the author (unknown to me) might consider selling the pattern directly, if the magazine is no longer available.

I have a Hegner 22 scroll saw. I want to be able to move the saw easily when needed. My plan is to make a base of 3/4" plywood and Porta-mate casters. At rest, the back of the platform will contact the ground through the rear casters. The front will be lowered to the floor, resting on legs. The saw is nearly vibration free when sitting on the concrete floor of my shop; however i don't know if i am asking for problems withe the saw on the mobile base. Does anyone have experience with Hegner saws and mobile bases?

Are your footpads outside the steel base legs? The Hegner stand is narrow and I can't comfortably position both feet inside the legs. The wider stance of my Excalibur stand allows for a very natural foot position and i have both footpads mounted between the steel legs. Based on your comments I will move ahead with my Hegner base. It will have to be rectangular because of the Porta-mate hardware. Thanks for your comments.

I like to have my major tools on mobile bases. I made a base for my Excalibur 21 using the Porta-mate 1100 kit and 3/4" plywood. That has worked out well and i have permanently mounted a foot rest and the foot switch in comfortable positions. With this base the rear is supported by casters and the front is lowered onto rubber pads. I recently purchased a Hegner 22 and i am considering a similar mobile setup. One advantage of the mobile base for the Hegner is added stability due to the narrow footprint of the Hegner stand. Because the legs are close together i probably can only comfortably position the foot switch, as it becomes awkwardly cramped to place both feet between the front legs of the stand. One concern that i have is vibration. Has anyone else placed a Hegner on a mobile base, and is a vibration problem created by so doing?