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Davevand

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Everything posted by Davevand

  1. Davevand
    Have you thought about using a #12 blade, Pegas #12 is .5mm thick
  2. Davevand
    I have been using shelf liner for some time now and use it on all my larger project. I have never had any issues with the liner pulling up the veneer on BB. I finally ran out of my supply of Con-Tact brand liner and I purchased some more only to find that it left a sticky residue on all my projects, they must have changed the adhesive since my last purchase. I have changed to Duck brand Easyliner Removable adhesive and it works great.
  3. Davevand
    I do this when I am cutting out toys to give away. I use a skip tooth blade to cut the toys, when it get dull I have a 1" thick piece of plywood that I put down on my scroll saw table and continue cutting, it almost doubles the life of the blades.
  4. Davevand
    I had a Ryobi for a long time, it still worked fine when I sold it. It was just SCREAMING LOUD when in use, just exhausting to use for any length of time. I bought the Jet, after I jury rigged the dust collection it works fine and is very quiet.
  5. Davevand
    If I were doing production work and relied on it for income I would have at least 2 saws if not 3. Any mechanical device can and will fail. It would be nice if all the saws were the same so you can have spare parts for all.
  6. Davevand
    Here is the scroll cart I made, works very well. It is solid, heavy, mobile and has plenty of storage. If I was to make one again I think I would set the saw farther out the front so I could roll my chair completely under the front of the saw.
  7. Davevand
    I am cutting puzzles out of 5/8 and 3/4 inch poplar I started cutting with a #3 Pegas MG and it was doing a good job, moved to a #5 Pages MG and it did not seem to cut as well and seem to dull faster. I will be changing back to the #3
  8. Davevand
    I use the Carter stabilizer on my saw for narrow blades, I also added a quick release tension system. Don't leave tension on your narrow blades when not in use. I think the bigger issue is the narrow blade and aggressive teeth, I would try a higher tooth count or a wider blade.
  9. Davevand
    For figured wood, it does cut cleaner and I also do not need to be as concerned with planing into the grain.
  10. Davevand
    I have had my Dewalt 735 for nearly 20 years and this year I upgraded the to a helical cutterhead. The difference in noise alone was worth the upgrade, I can actually carry on a conversation while it is running now. It was not cheap, but worth every penny.
  11. Davevand
    I have the Freman pin nailer, I have used it with 1/2-3/4 inch pins and it has worked very well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EVPO7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  12. Davevand
    Here is a good video from Stump Nubs
  13. Davevand
    Top 2 drawers on my scroll saw cart in test tubes, 0/2 thru #3 in top drawer #5 and larger in second drawer. The tubes I use fit perfectly in the holes in the frame of the saw so the current tube for the blade I am using goes there. If I put a used blade back in a tube I put a tiny piece of blue tape on the end.
  14. Davevand
    I used alder for the first time and it cuts very nice with the scroll saw. The only issue I had was finishing it, I sprayed three coats of lacquer and it was still soaking into the wood, to get a good finish I had to seal with shellac first, then finish with lacquer or poly.
  15. Davevand
    I keep an Excel spreadsheet with all my tool info including pictures up to date. I did this several years ago after my sister had a theft of a bunch of tools out of her garage, She keeps meticulous records of everything, the LEO was shocked when she pulled out all the info on all the stolen tools. They actually found everything because she had pictures and serial numbers of everything. Also you should check your insurance policy to be sure you have enough coverage, I had to increase my content coverage to include the value of my tools.
  16. Davevand
    I cut a couple of the ornaments finally, had to buy some proper blades and my top chuck head decided to quit working properly. Anyway I cut the letter out first and filled with epoxy. This worked ok, but air bubbles get trapped in the letters, really need to use a pressure pot. The epoxy cut very easily and fairly clean (used a Pegas #6 super skip), after cutting the piece out I them sanded the epoxy to 2000 grit, finishing with tung oil. Wood is mahogany.
  17. Davevand
    thanks everyone, I think I will try filling the letter and then finishing the cut. Stay tuned
  18. Davevand
    I want to cut a few ornaments from Steve Goode pattern and I was wondering what sequence to use to make them. http://www.stevedgood.com/3dintorns.pdf The ornaments are a compound cut with a letter in them. I want to fill the letter with a glitter epoxy. My question is should I cut the letter first and fill with epoxy then cut the ornament or should I cut the entire ornament and fill the letter then. Thanks
  19. Davevand
    I have 2 bandsaws, a 14 inch Delta clone that I keep a narrow blade on for freehand work and a Laguna 14|12 that I keep a wide blade on for resawing and slab work. I really like the Laguna and I think the biggest difference is in the guides, the Laguna uses the ceramic guides. It seems people either love the guides or hate them, I have never had any problems with mine. The only reason I bought the Laguna is I only have 110v power in my shop and at the time the Laguna was the best saw I could buy at the time, I wish I could have bought a 17" 3hp saw but I can't.
  20. Davevand
    I have the Summit version of this sprayer and like it a lot for spaying both shellac and lacquer. I thin the finish just a bit and they spray great. I also spay water based poly and that sprays ok, but not great. If I remember correctly I paid $49 for mine when it was on sale, for that price it was definitely worth it.
  21. Davevand
    Steve Goode had a tutorial video on how to create scroll saw patterns from a photo
  22. Davevand
    I use these lights on both my drill press and bandsaw
  23. Davevand
    I basically design on the fly, I have a general idea of what I want when I start and start building, The stand came out just about the way I envisioned it, the only thing I would change is the space in the front I would make deeper so there is more room for the foot pedal. Since I am somewhat vertically challenged the saw is also lower than even the lowest setting from the stand that I bought with the saw, also the is no cross bar in the front that I was constantly banging my shin on.
  24. Davevand
    I built a mobile base/storage base to replace my Excalibur base. I just put small locking caster on my unit, but I have never had to lock them when I use it.
  25. Davevand
    I will echo the dull router bit, might also be just a inexpensive bit that is just not very good. I do use the cheap bits for plywood, but I always use my good bits (mostly Whiteside) when I want I want a good finish. On a profile like that I would probably use at least 2 or maybe 3 passes to complete, the last pass is just a very light pass keeping the router moving equals very little chance of burning
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