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Davevand

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Everything posted by Davevand

  1. Davevand
    Why not just have the board cut at 1/2" instead of 1 inch to start with? I would resaw on a bandsaw first then run the boards thru my planer. A lot less waste and faster.
  2. Davevand
    For thicker than 1" material I like the Pegas Super Skip blades. I just finished cutting 48 vases out of 1.5" pine using a #9 super skip blade.
  3. Davevand
    I always wait until I figure out what I am going to make with the board before I do more than a skim plane to see what the grain looks like. No reason to make the entire board narrower or thinner for just a small defect.
  4. Davevand
    Try to collect as much dust at the source as possible, don't let the dust get airborne. I setup a two stage system with a small cyclone (Amazon cheap one) in front of my vacuum. It work surprisingly well. I have yet to have to clean the air filter in the vacuum (4 years) and I have emptied the dust bucket several times. I also have a hose on top of my table that is hooked to the vacuum to collect from above the project. There is a surprising amount of dust on top of the table.
  5. Davevand
    Should have added a pic ~6" diameter from point to point at top, 9 layers (10 counting the bottom piece) stack cut from the same piece of stock that was resawn. Short basket has rings that are ~5/16 thick and is about 3-1/4" tall Tall basket has rings that are 7/16" thick and is ~4-1/2 inches tall
  6. Davevand
    I use Steve Good patterns for baskets a lot. I will shrink or blow up the pattern depending in the size of the stock I am using. I also very the thickness of the stock to get a different look. I recently made a SG basket that I stack cut two layers, one layer was thinner than the other, the two resulting baskets look completely different. One is taller and has a narrow look, the other is short and squatty.
  7. Davevand
    I started using this a while ago and really like it, tacks up fast and really holds TITEBOND QUICK & THICK MULTI-SURFACE GLUE
  8. Davevand
    Yes, I wax mine, noticeable difference in how slick it is.
  9. Davevand
    A couple of other things you might want to consider for comfort is the height of your scroll saw table in relation to you seat and how your body is positioned when you are working. About a year ago I noticed I was getting a lot of back pain if I scrolled for more than an hour or so. It was because I was hunched over in an unnatural position as I was working. I had to raise my saw about 1.5 inches and tilt the saw toward me about 10 degrees. Now when I sit at my saw I can lay my forearms flat on my table in a very natural position and see what I am doing without any bend in my neck or back.
  10. Davevand
    I use a cheap stool, I like it for the formed seat and it goes low enough that I can put my feet flat on the for. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TMHXA4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A couple of years ago I bought a gel seat cushion, it has made a big difference in comfort. https://www.amazon.com/Cushion-Breathable-Honeycomb-Pressure-Non-Slip/dp/B08XX3W5KR/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_w=hMH6D&content-id=amzn1.sym.2c74594d-9264-4cdf-bf3d-e4e41e237275&pf_rd_p=2c74594d-9264-4cdf-bf3d-e4e41e237275&pf_rd_r=HKAF99R0DZJ3CC8EKB17&pd_rd_wg=CpSkh&pd_rd_r=cb50ecfc-82ae-4a6b-8e95-a41d8bb817a4&pd_rd_i=B08XX3W5KR&th=1
  11. Davevand
    Packing tape/blue tape does not work very well with epoxy. You will want to use the aluminum foil duct tape. You also need to be sure every little hole and crack is sealed or epoxy will find its way thru it.
  12. Davevand
    When I cut patterns like this out of solid wood, I like to have a blank that is at least 3/8 up to 5/8 thick, so 1/2 inch would be perfect for me. Of course blade speed ,type and mfg also plays a big part.
  13. Davevand
    Not really any difference, a lot of people use the terms interchangably
  14. Davevand
    I don't think epoxy is going to work very well in this application. Epoxy runs like water and will find its way thru the smallest of holes or cracks. If you want some color to fill in, I have used this stuff, easy to work with and lots of colors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CGB68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  15. Davevand
    Each blade type has their pluses and minuses and both have a learning curve to be proficient in using them. I have never had good luck using spiral blade with plywood or stack cutting. I also quite often use both blade types on the same project, all the internal fret work with the spiral and all the external cuts that I want nice and crisp with regular blades.
  16. Davevand
    It also depends on who your intended user is. I make puzzles for small kids and I use a #3 or #5 so there is plenty of free play for the puzzles to go together,ie easy for kids to put together.
  17. Davevand
    Five different SG patterns to make these
  18. Davevand
    Five different Steve Good patterns cut and pasted together
  19. Davevand
    I am not sure when I read an article on this type of finish, probably late 90 or early 2000's. The author stated that he would wait at least over night, longer if possible between the last coat shellac and the first coat of lacquer, he then would wait at least a week before he would do any kind of buffing or waxing. He also stated that he would always use gloss lacquer to build up the coats then use semi-gloss or satin for the last one or two coats. This would give you the sheen you want without a "muddy" (as he called it) look to the finish.
  20. Davevand
    I have used this procedure for a long time. The only issue I have had is I need to be patient, let the shellac fully cure, not just dry before you put a top coat of lacquer on. If you are going to do a final hand rubbed finish you will need to let the piece sit and fully dry for at least a couple of weeks before you start. I have had to refinish some pieces that I have left finger prints in just moving them around the next day.
  21. Davevand
    I think I have the same wood. Our club bought 4 pallets of it from a guy, he used it for flooring and stair treads, it looked very cool. I have used some in scroll work but you needs to be very selective on the boards you use, there are hidden cracks and weak spots throughout the boards. I have also used some in crosses I made. I love working with it, it smalls like molasses when you work with it.
  22. Davevand
    How the wood was cut at the mill also makes a big difference on how the scroll saw will cut it. A piece of flat sawn red oak will cut better than a piece of rift or quarter sawn red oak. With rift or quarter sawn the blade will be much more likely to wander or follow the grain since the grain is in the same direction as the cut verses flat sawn that the grain is perpendicular to the blade.
  23. Davevand
    I bought a bunch of items from an estate sale and one of these was in the box. Touchup gun I use it with my little PC compressor and it works well. I have used it to spray numerous small projects with shellac. lacquer and WB poly. If I am just finishing one small item I will still use a rattle can simply for convenience, but bigger projects or multiple item I get the gun out. I do have a bigger Earlex HVLP that I can use for bigger projects but I rarely use it these days.
  24. Davevand
    Been busy on the scroll saw the last few days Made some Christmas ornaments inspired from a Steve Goode design, I changed the patterns a bit to get what I was looking for. I used walnut, ash, alder, and several different colors of polar to get the look I was going for. They were stack cut four at a time, each layer is about 1/4 inch and there are 7 layers in the round one and 6 layer in the other. Finished with WB semi-gloss poly. The size of the circular ornament is ~4 inches the other is a tad over 4” x 3-1/2. All the rings were stack cut 4 at a time on my scroll saw on my EX-21 using a Pegas super skip #6 blade. I really like the super skip blades for thicker material. I I cut two Sue Mey patterns. Both are natural poplar coloring and about 11/16 thick, finished with satin WB poly. They are about 11×7 inches in size.
  25. Davevand
    For thick stock I use the Pegas SuperSkip blades, they cut better than any skip blade I have tried
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