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The Devil in the Circuit

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    Geno

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  1. Scrappile, all these parts are industrial Lego. The air connections work just like SharkBite plumbing couplings (they press together...like Lego). You can build what you see in the OP video for about $100 total. Here's a good primer on solenoid valves and actuators: Click here I am no genius; I'm just a goober with some simple tools and some time to think things through and do a little research on the bits and bobs necessary to make stuff work. Like you, I'm also from the Dumb Planet...so if I can do this, so can you. Cheers! Geno
  2. No, unfortunately there are no plans; I made the parts as I went. The video shows all the parts involved except for the 24vDC transformer, small air pressure regulator, and Aro pneumatic solenoid valve. It's pretty straightforward, and I'm sure there are some improvements that could be made. Pressure regulator: https://www.amazon.com/PRESSURE-REGULATOR-COMPRESSED-SYSTEMS-ADJUST/dp/B06W9HBLCM/ref=sr_1_6 Solenoid valve: https://www.arozone.com/en/products/pneumatic-valves-and-cylinders/pneumatic-valves/premair-series/3-way-valves.html Pneumatic actuator: https://www.amazon.com/Parker-1-06DPSR03-0-Stainless-Cylinder-Non-cushioned/dp/B00BUA1R9W/ref=sr_1_14 You could simplify it and use a pneumatic control pedal; this would remove the requirements for a 24v transformer, relay, and solenoid valve. One like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P41RSG7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6 I used the transformer/relay/valve because that's what I had on hand. If you buy a single-acting actuator, make sure it retracts (not extends) under pressure. Cheers!
  3. If your Excalibur or Seyco is rattling, something that's often overlooked is the four screws that hold the cast aluminum bearing carrier in the front of the upper arm and the four in the lower arm. There are two on each side (yellow arrows in the linked image below, eight screws total). These tend to work loose because they are threaded into the soft aluminum and cannot be overtightened. A dab of blue thread locker helps keep them secure. Click here for image
  4. Here's a slightly different take on this approach--a pneumatic lift. Ray at Seyco says he's going to try an electric (screw drive) actuator. That's a great option for someone that has no air system, but it's probably slower than the pneumatic type. This one runs at 25 PSI. Click for U-Toob vid Cheers, Geno
  5. Howdy I've been scroll sawing for five years. A pal of mine wanted a way to tilt his Excalibur and Seyco saws and have the pneumatic lift pull in line with the selected blade angle. The operation needed to be simple to operate without having to stand up or lean over the saw because he suffers from mobility issues. The solution is in this video: Video here. This was dead easy to build and implement; the video description contains more details. I used aluminum for the major parts, but hardwood would also work great. Please let me know if you have any questions. Cheers to all, Geno
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